lojik

I have a 99 TL and am doing my brakes. I have read all the DIY post and printed out my instructions sheets. I saw a video on bleeding but am still sketchy. I read 01TL4TL say that it is best to bleed brakes before to remove rust and particles. I have also read to do it after since the old pads are gonna be gone and you might get air in the lines again anyway. I trust 01TL4TL's advice , he also advised to bleed in this order LF RF RR LR, again I trust his advice even though everywhere else it says to start with the furthest from the master cylinder so I will do it in that order. My whole thing is , I have one Jack, and wheel stops. What do I do first , bleed the brakes put one tire back on move to the next and so on and then again go back to the beginning and then start my brake job or do I bleed and change the brake while the wheel is off after I bleed? I want to replace all my fluid not just some. I f I do bleed first then change brakes will I be bleeding for air bubbles at the end again therefore might require an extra bottle of fluid just to be sure? PLease help , also any other advice before I start is very welcome, kinda not sure either about what I need to put anti seize on? Pretty confident I can do it but it is my first try ever so I am looking to be as cautious s possible. Again please help and thanks.

farmdevil

This is true. If it's been a while it is possible that when you push the caliper pistons in to accomodate the new pads some rust and debris will get pushed through the system up to the master cylinder or the ABS pump (I may have killed mine this way).

Air isn't going to get in the lines when you install new pads so long as you never let the reservoir run dry. Make sure to suck a bit out with a turkey baster because it will overflow when you install the new pads if you have just topped off the fluid during bleeding.


I'd bleed them all first, but now that I think about it I'm not sure if any damage would be done by just bleeding and replacing at each wheel before moving on.

You aren't going to introduce air into the system just by changing the pads. Also now that I realized you want to do all the fluid, that's another good reason to do the whole car then go back around and do the brakes. Otherwise you'll get old fluid mixed with new to some extent.

I always put it on the caliper guide pins and on any surface where the pad contacts the calipers (the back and any other little metal pieces sticking out). Never put it anywhere near the friction surface and don't get it on your hands and then touch the rotor (plus I read that it is "known by the state of California to cause cancer"). Also with regards to anti-sieze, this is what I've always used (the stuff in the grey can) but last weekend we took apart the brakes on my friend's Jetta to eliminate a squeak and we discovered that it had already dried up after only a few months. I'm thinking I'll try the stuff that is actually made to lubricate brake parts next time just to see if that lasts any longer.

lojik

I also forgot to ask about something I read also by 01TL4TL about having to torque screws so that the calipers wont warp easier as well as torquing the lugs, I don't think I have a special tool for this but also please let me know if it is vital.

lojik

Ok so if I do bleed first no bleeding is needed after I do my brakes even if I change rotors? So your just not sure if I can bleed and do my brakes all on one tire change.

lojik

Also since I want to completely replace all my fluid from regular to synthetic , I read to refill after every bleed. Am I just gonna pour my new synthetic over the dirty old one?

hANDYcaptd

iTrader: (5)

If you want to replace pads and bleed on one wheel before moving to the next, follow the pad replacement DIY up to where it comes times to compress the piston back.

Release the bleeder screw and then compress the piston. This way, you won't push contaminants up the lines. It'll come out of the bleeder. When you have it compressed, install the new pads and put the caliper back. Then follow the bleed procedure, move on to next wheel and repeat.

lojik

Is that a sure-fire way of not getting contaminants or is it just a pretty good chance and ideally I would want to do each bleed first on all four and then go back and start my brake job? I would rather it take me longer and end right but if this is a science and the contaminants are definitely gone with the first turn of the valve bleed then I can't see why I wouldn't do it that way. Before I start the brake job or the first bleed will I need to pump the brakes in any way and can I since the caliper might be off?

Also I forgot , can I turn the front wheels a more favorable way and is the back harder in any way since it cannot turn?

The rear brake I understand has a Drum for the E-brake, is there an adjustment I can make or need to make to it and will any of this make the back brakes harder to do?

01tl4tl

geez I take a few hours off and look what happens

its ok to flush out the old fluid then do the brake job one wheel at a time- do that with it all together on the old parts
Use a turkey baster to remove MOST but not all of the brake fluid from master cyl
CAUTION BRAKE FLUID EATS CAR PAINT!! use care and towels to protect under and around master cyl..turkey baster not a precision tool for holding oil~

do not uncover the brake line holes at bottem side of master cyl--
slowly pour in new fluid - it will sit on top of old fluid
and as you pump 4 times and hold-open valve- release fluid= the old will come out first- they dont really mix, just the very first part-

black thin ugly fluid comes out for a while - then gets cleaner and finally color of new fluid.
once on clean fluid--do a few more sets of pump- open- fluid comes out with no bubbles- done!
Use a hose on bleeder valve to prevent mess- put hose into water bottle (dry) and 1 inch clean new fluid in it- hose sits in fluid so it cant suck air bubbles up the hose- backwash

Now remove caliper, compress piston by tool or open valve and push in (careful to close valve without letting pressure off the piston--or air gets in

but keeping it flat is important--use old pads backside to push piston--its light pressure

As noted before- dont have the master FULL and then compress piston
you can send brake fluid everywhere!!
halfway is fine then compress caliper

It should take 1 full fill of the master to get good fluid to the caliper you are working on
refill when low--and keep flushing to make sure no old fluid is trapped in the caliper somewhere
entire job takes about 1.5 qts fluid

LF RF RR LR is due to ABS plumbing

rear brakes not affected by front brake job, but MUST be flushed too
(bleed means air is in system from open line or other problem-
flush means to push out all old fluid and replace with new)

to adjust park brake inside rear rotor, I would inspect first, clean dust out and lube the self adjuster cam
there is a star wheel at bottem same as any drum brake from the 70s-on
spec is click to tighten until wheel wont turn easily by hand
then back off 6 clicks

01tl4tl

ok to turn front wheels for bolt access,,only way I can do it!! hammer and breaker bar are my friends
torque on all the bolts is important,,,many are set too tight

if you dont have the right tool for the job, first try to tighten bolt by hand with wrench. now loosen bolt- your muscle memory will allow you to get it back the same tight- same amount of muscle pressure as when ckd tight

01tl4tl

I use crc brand synthetic caliper grease- the little packs are plenty for one end of the car brake job
even that stuff says to redo it every year!
the brake area is subject to a lot of water thru the rims--puddles..
car washes take grease away instantly~

01tl4tl

NOTE!!! when compressing piston into caliper, do NOT push it in till flat level with body of caliper (flush mounted)
thats past the normal range of travel and you can damage the oring on piston--happens on a lot of brake jobs
just open wide enough to get caliper over the pads, install bolts and torque
then pump brakes until it pushes piston back out to operating range--~1mm off pad~

refill master to neck- go to next wheel

Note 2: VERY IMPORTANT if noob helper pumping brakes-
place a small piece of 2x4 wood under the brake pedal arm- limiting its travel to 3/4 of the way to floor (normal operating range- you dont go to the floor at stoplights right?!)
if they push the pedal all the way to floor when you open the bleeder- its going to damage the oring on master cyl rod!

remove wood block when done flushing- before test drive (legal disclaimer!)

lojik

Thanks 01TL4TL for helping me again, a couple months back you gave me solid exact information on my intake manifold removal for egr port cleaning. Thankyou for that very much, I went perfectly thanks to you.

I bought the Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid you recommended in another post for Dot 3&4 so I definitely want to flush out my old and fill with all new so like you said by definition I am not bleeding if understand correctly. So with that said to verify that I understand everything, I will start in the LF and with all the old parts still installed I will remove with a baster some of the brake fluid then fill with the new fluid slowly to almost the top then I can replace the cover on the master cyln. Then I can open the bleed valve until I see the new clean fluid then close it. I saw a video on how to bleed brakes and they would press and hold the brake pedal(3/4 of the way down you said I believe) then open the bleeder valve then close it and then they would do it again , press brake, hold , open valve , let bubbles out, close valve and repeat until no more bubbles. This is what I will do after I flush the old out right? Then I can begin to dis-assemble the caliper and remove the brakes and rotors on this wheel. Then I move on to the RF and again fill the Mast. Cyln. and flush until new comes out, then bleed for bubbles , then install new parts. Is all this right upto this point?

I bought a OEM One-Man Brake Bleeder KIT but that is with a little 1 or 2 ounce bottle and now seems that will be useless since I need a bigger container to flush.

I also borrowed a caliper tool from Auto zone and have that as help and I will make sure I don't push all the way back just enough to fit pad, I understand once pushed in the piston will not come back out right?

So I will not need to bleed for air once I go around after flushing , bleeding and removing and replacing brakes. Once I get to the last tire after following all previous instructions All the fluid should already be new clean and bubble free right.

I think I addressed everything I will go back and read again to check if I missed anything but please let me know if I understood you correctly.

One more quick sum up, I can do it all in one tire change as long as I follow the order and process of... empty , fill with new , flush , then bleed for bubbles, then remove old brakes and rotors , caliper press , pads and then replace tire.

Thanks Again for chiming in here 01TL4TL. I really appreciate all your time and help. I know it's late already so no worries for today.

farmdevil

You should technically torque all of the bolts that have torques listed in the service manual. However, in some cases you won't have enough clearance for the wrench. As for warping, the only thing that might affect that is the lug nuts, as the little set screw is just for your convenience during the brake job and isn't really holding anything on.


I've never heard anything good about these one-man kits. It's best to use a helper or install speed bleeders for next time, as I've done.


It won't come back out until you tell it to by pressing the brake pedal.

01tl4tl

helper pumps pedal 4 times at reasonable pace--not racing thru it-that creates foam
Holds with pressure on 4th pump, as if stopped on a steep hill
helper calls out- Holding!
you open bleeder and out comes dirty fluid-
helper to keep pressure on pedal as it drops away when bleeder opened
pedal hits the wood stop (you see fluid has stopped moving thru drain hose)
and helper calls out DOWN!

they MUST hold pedal down until you close bleeder and call out Closed-!!

then helper pumps pedal another 4-5 times and holds,,, HOLD!- open- DOWN!- close,,repeat until all new fluid and then some more

you are not going to do one for flush then bleed- the whole operation removes any bubbles that were in there somehow,,and new fluid pushes out old fluid = done!!

lojik

I'm sorry guys, my dad is away tomorrow and we were out all day celebrating fathers day and just now got back. I really thank you for getting back to me.

I have to also apologize also because I don't quite understand the concept or what it is to "torque" a screw or lug. I read about tightening then un-tightening then re-tightening and my muscle memory will basically evenly tighten all of the screws equally? And what exactly am I torquing and how.

As far as the brakes... If I understand you (01TL4TL) correctly, flushing will override having to bleed later. Now my first step is ,4 non-violent pumps of the pedal with a piece of wood under the pedal so I only go 3/4 of the way down, attach hose to bleeder valve with other end of hose submerged in about 1 inch of new brake fluid that will be in my water bottle to create a sort of vacuum so that if the line wants to suck for some reason it wont because of the fluid or will only suck fluid not more air? Is that right so far? I will do this a few times and the stream will stop when the pedal goes all the way down(3/4) and then I have to pump again 4 times and do again til new fluid comes out, do it a couple more times to make sure no more bubbles are left, all while the bottom end of the tube is still submerged in brake fluid. When no bubbles and only clean fluid comes out, the flush for that tire is finished completely and I can move on to removing the old parts. Is that correct to this point?

Now my other question/concern was... with all this done(flushed lines)on the first tire I can now move on to removing, my old parts from that "First" tire without yet having touched any of the other tires(right?), when I take my pads and rotors off, the piston on the caliper comes out right? When it is time to press that piston back to reassemble everything, since I have the Caliper tool I should be Ok and no air should sneak back into the line because I pushed the caliper right? When pads and rotors are done and assembled I can move on to the next tire in the order and again do the 4 pumps, attach tube to bleeder and submerge other end of hose under brake fluid and basically begin the whole process again of flushing until old fluid is out and only new fluid is showing and no more bubbles come out. Then again proceed to next tire. By the last tire the whole system will have new fluid and be bubble free? I think I got it all but please make any corrections.

Also I bought PB Blaster for the rotor screws and AutoZone Brake Cleaner to clean everything up, do I have to spray carefully around anything anywhere in there so I don't mess up anything with the sprays?

The Anti-Seize(claim to be the only one they carry) I got at autozone does not say anti-seize anywhere on it. It is called"Sil-Glyde Brake Lubricant" it says it's to Stop brake noise and it's says it's for the caliper slides and all contact points on brakes. Does that sound like the right stuff that I need to fall under the anti-seize lube?

Should I return the one-man bleeder kit and just go to home depot and buy literally just a hose?

01TL4TL, you said.."do not uncover the brake line holes at bottem side of master cyl--"... you mean up on top not below anywhere near the brakes right? That must be up by where I will be refilling after I flush fluid i'm guessing.

I myself almost lost myself trying to keep track of everything I wrote and understand but I think I got it all in there.

I can't Thank You guys enough (especially 01TL4TL) Always coming through with Straight-Broken-Down-Simplified Knowledge.
I appreciate your responses and hope you can help me out with these last questions. I hope I don't have a need to bug you guys again. Thank You

farmdevil

Auto Zone has loaner torque wrenches. You just turn the knob to the appropriate torque and the wrench will click when it's tight enough. Don't use muscle memory for parts of your car that separate you from the road.


Flushing is just bleeding with 100% of the fluid. When you bleed you are normally just getting a little bit of air/moisture/debris out of the lines near the wheel. When you flush, you are intending to replace all of the fluid. I would do a flush at least every 30,000 miles or so because moisture seeps through the hoses (and wherever else) and makes the fluid boil at a lower temp.


I notice you haven't mentioned your helper. I would really recommend trying to do this with a helper instead of the one-man bleed thing, especially since you don't seem to have a firm grasp on what you're doing. It is imperative that you do not allow the pedal to rise while the bleeder screw is open. Doing so will let air back into the line.


Actually the piston won't push out unless you step on te brake. The reason you need to push it in a bit is that the new pads will be thicker than the (worn down) old pads.


It's a closed system. Unless you open that bleeder screw or remove the cap off the reservoir, no air will get in.


I've also invested in an "impact driver" for the screws. It's basically a spring device that you pound with a hammer. If you can't get the screw otherwise, you may try that. They can sometimes be really hard. Of course half of the time, they are long gone already. I've tried a torch too, because really why not take advantage of a good excuse to use a torch.


That's perfect.


Small fish tank hose fits those bleeders nicely.


He means to never let that reservoir get dry. You should never let it get to the point where you can see the bottom.

01tl4tl

torque is how tight any bolt or screw is
every fastener has a spec based on mettalury/grade, shank size and intended use

the problem with loaner torque wrench is most people dont know to return it to 10lbs when stored- maintains accuracy
Buy one at harbor freight tools for 15-20 bucks
Most of the bolts are pretty low spec,,~30 on caliper to bracket and 50 on bracket mount to spindle hub..
Ck autozone or similar site for diy help that list every bolt spec--if not found in our diys

Putting the tire lugs on in the correct across-star pattern and bringing them up hand tight with tool, then lower car and final torque to 80 foot pounds
That protects the rotors and axle hub from unequal stress,,
a major cause of rotor probs after shop rotates tires and blast on lugs with an air gun ...like they saw on nascar..not cool for aluminum rims--
nascar rims are steel and thrown away after 1 season~

ck the DIYs again for where to lube--observe old parts as you remove for wear points- its very clear when you look at everything,,
see how the pads `clip into place`, and the end tabs where they run on those slider plates- remove and clean the plates- lube lightly there and the tabs on end of pads that sit on the plate
when you see it, all will make sense

01tl4tl

YOU do understand the `pump and hold` method requires 2 people right???
Helper does the grunt work of pumping the pedal,,thats why the 2x4,
assuming no training in auto repair
so they cant go too far when you open valve and pedal drops from under their foot,, and screws up your car

you be the trained monkey= opens the bleeder valve/nipple,,gets up and down cking and refilling master cyl...
it may take 10 sets or more,, of pump-open to get old fluid out
only a small amount of fluid moves out the line each time--motion of the pedal isnt very far

The fluid in bottem of catch can prevents air from getting sucked back in,,say if the bleeder is left loose or helper loses grip on pedal,,
Hose must fit tight on valve or it wont work right, and fluid will spill everywhere
Keep rags handy!!

the harbor freight 25$ vac pump/1 man bleeder works well- after you figure out which adaptor tightly fits the valve,,then its simple,,
open bleeder, apply suction, fluid fills container, close bleeder, release suction- empty container
Only holds 4oz at a time but not a big deal to empty and start again
certainly less work than pumping the pedal!!

01tl4tl

the lines to never expose are at the bottem side of the master cylinder- the thing you add fluid to.

see the metal lines attached to side of plastic res? thats the brake lines
they dont sit on the bottem--crud could get in them,
so they are slightly up the side--keep an eye on fluid level so those dont get uncovered -
careful removing old fluid with the turkey baster ($2 at grocery store)
exposing the holes then allows air in--now you really will be doing `bleed`,,
that air will have to get pushed all the way thru the line to the caliper and then out

lojik

Ok , sorry guys for not mentioning that I will have a trained monkey assisting me throughout the process (not in mechanics of course) so I don't "NeeD" the one-man bleeder. When I do the 4 non-violent pumps and then open valve to get out old fluid only a little will come out. I keep refilling the reservoir and this will be done roughly about 10 times per tire give or take till there's new fluid thats' bubble free, all while never letting the brake line's holes in the reservoir be exposed to air.

The last hazy part on the pumping is that if I pump 4 times and have a 2x4 under the pedal and it is compressed and held down on the 4th pump, will it not be touching the 2x4 already since it is being held down (like when on a steep hill)? Or even though my monkey will be holding the pedal down it will still go further down once I open the bleed valve? To sum up , valve closed means only so far , once opened it goes down even further but must never go past the 2x4 under any circumstances.

Ok so a torque is kind-of like the setup on some drills where you adjust the stiffness of the chuck from 1-10 to see how tight something is allowed to tighten and never more since the drill will start clicking and that says that the desired tightness has been achieved. So basically its a tool that is a wrench of sorts that has different settings of tightness I can adjust based on the spec I'm told, if thats right that means I have no choice and really need a torque tool. So the ones at Autozone are likely not calibrated correctly anymore? I really don't want to if I don't need to but I don't want warping in the future so I WILL? need to buy one then since rented ones won't do? Does sears have those? I don't think I have a harbor freight tools near me(just found one semi-far). Also , so this torque wrench will fit all my bolts and lugs, im guessing it fits sockets since i saw one now. Will I need the 1/4 in or 3/8 in or 1/2in?

The specs for all the torquing is somewhere in the

lojik

Sorry accidentaly posted but wasn't done and editing time expired while writing, here's the rest.

The specs for all the torquing is somewhere in the DIY? will everything I tighten need torquing? You mentioned 30 on caliper to bracket and bracket to hub was 50. Where is a sure fire place to get all these specs?

Thanks guys for the help I got most everything info wise just need the Torque wrench I guess. Please correct me on anything I still might not have gotten right. I plan on starting now pretty much so your help is greatly appreciated.

01tl4tl

with the car off: when you push the brakes down now, how far to the floor does the pedal go?
now place a 2x4 under the arm of the pedal--repeat test--see how there is a few inches of movement,,thats the travel limit the pedal needs to be PUSHED to-
pushing lighty accellerates the outbound fluid!
helper keeps pressure on pedal as if on a hill, as, and after- you open valve,,
it will be ~1 second of motion--till it hits the wood and they hold it there-
do not release foot until Chief Monkey says OK or CLOSED to signal valve is closed
Agree on your signals to prevent air getting in and adding to your workload

When you open the valve each time, the pedal drops as pressure escapes = fluid moves thru line,,
helper pumps up pressure again--the repeated pumps increase pressure in system so it wants to push out old crud
Please ck youtube for instructions on this--brakes are very important

usually takes approx 1 master cyl res. full to get all clean fluid coming out, then another half or so res capacity to make sure its all good at the caliper.
good news! you dont have to jump up and refill each time you open the valve,,
do 5 sets and see what the level is,,top off if needed

01tl4tl

torque wrech looks like a badazz ratchet that uses regular sockets

Im guessing you are working with wrenches and sockets, so your abilty to overtorque is limited by human strength in awkward position working on knees in tight spaces
= limited leverage

as you loosen the bolts you will feel how tight they go,,dont superhuman them back on and it will be ok
hand tight (with socket/ratchet) much as you can on caliper to bracket--that ones not super tight because the caliper moves on its attachment--too tight and they wont work

and bracket to car bolts,, socket/ratchet tight and hit handle of ratchet with hammer--thats fine
not going to fall off-and not too tight

impact screwdriver for the 2 pesky rotor retainer screws- the screws do not have to go back in if you damage them
can use a big + screwdriver and hit the end of it with a hammer-BANG BANG-try twisting right-as if to tighten, then left loosen to break corrossion bond

if desperate use carbide tip drill bit and cut into screw top- chisel off

lojik

Ok , Im pretty good now, I will look on youtube for flushing a 99 tl brake fluid to get a visual and I will also search the web for torque specs, I prefer proper work and like you said "brakes are very important" so I'm gonna just buy the torque wrench and I guess the size I need just depends on the sockets I have, I can always get adapters.

If something goes wrong in the future I don't want it to be because I did it myself half-ass cause the point in addition to saving money is also to do it right and if thats what it takes it's better it cost me now than later, I'm sure the torque wrench will be handy when I take on future projects. Im also sure it would have came in handy when I cleaned my egr port in the manifold.
Do you think the Pittsburgh Brand that Harbor freight sells is good or of-quality or should I try and spring for something better? Also it seems very large , will that even fit in the wheel well to use for my brake job?

01tl4tl

you turn the wheel for better access

that is the same tool I own, it works fine
Definetly need it for the intake manifold job

I believe you are overthinking this project
read post again,,www.autozone.com has a diy section with torque specs
Since you are buying the proper tool- you can self calibrate it AND find out the current setting before any bolt removal
Set tool to `tighten` at low spec- and keep turning up spec until tool clicks- read setting!
put bolt back at that same setting~~

DONT use the torque wrench as a regular tool to break bolts loose!!,,only to final tighten them
any gen2 TL or CL video will work

01tl4tl

buy the 3/8 drive torque wrench-thats standard size for sockets
go to website for discount coupon www.harborfreight.com

01tl4tl

ck gen3 section on here- they have a lot of great DIYs with pics,,better than us
same brakes- same procedure

lojik

I AM over-thinking it. I'm sorry I know it all sounds so redundant a lot of times me spewing like that but I guess it's part of my ridiculous process, sorry for that again but in the same token Thank you for being so understanding of my ignorance and being patient and extremely helpful. I am very attentive and take direction well, know that I devour any Information you give me, know that none of it is taken in vain or wasted , every last bit helps and is well digested. I can never Thank You enough. The information you give me makes me feel like a callous thief because it is so valuable and I get it solely thanks to your extreme generosity, I get slightly embarrassed to ask so many questions that I know to you are very likely trivial at best but my dire necessity always seems to trump my shame and for that again I apologize and Thank You with my sincerest regards. I hope that maybe one day I can do the same for you or for someone like me. I believe this is the essence of a truly Extraordinary Person and you my Friend are an Extraordinary Person and an inspiration to continue to Pass Good Along, your a true humanitarian. I could easily read all this on manuals and struggle with it while trying to make sense of it but what you do for people like me is down right Angelic. Thank you and I wish you tremendously Good Health with a Long and Happy Life.

(I checked auto zone upon your direction but missed the actual "DIY" section entirely, I will go back and find it. Also I did see the 3G DIY and liked all the info just wasn't sure how similar they were , now I know so now I know)

Even though I run the risk of crossing over to down right annoying I have to one again give my sincerest thanks so.... Thank You!

lojik

I went to the Harbor Freight tools website to look for the coupon you mentioned and I even signed up and looked as well as I could and I still could not find that coupon. Can you maybe give me a link or a tad bit more of direction so I can find it? I am now a member and checked the confirmation email and all the "Get Savings" section of the website and nothing. Please let me know if you know specifically where it might be. Thanks.

lojik

I think i found the coupon but it expires today. Oh well. Not sure if you know about this or not but the 1/4in and 1/2in Torque wrenches are from 20 to 150 LBS but the 3/8in wrench is only from 20 to 80 LBS and the 3/8 and the 1/2in cost the same and the 1/4 is cheaper than both. Any Idea why this would be?

01tl4tl

most common size sockets are 3/8 drive
1/4 inch is for tiny- under 6mm sockets,, used in dashboards etc
3/4 is heavy duty and wont read down accurate at 16 pounds for the intake manifold

seriously- you can tell how tight these bolts should be by hand--we are talking 2 bigger bolts which obviously get more torque,, ~50-60
and the 2 on the caliper that are actually the pins the caliper has to slide on as brakes are used,,so those are smaller and less torque so caliper doesnt bind ~25-30 iirc
been a while since I looked them up,,now I do it by feel~
if the help/diy torque spec wasnt on azone try oreillys.com or gen3 diy section
its one of them

the front and rear brakes on gen2 and 3 are the same- unless the g3 has brembo fronts,,then its an extra bleeder to do on fronts and different torque specs
but the procedure is the same

harbor freight- always ck the coupons or weekly ad on top line
Since you signed up, you will get 20% coupons all the time too
the tool is constantly on sale

lojik

Much Appreciated, Have a Good Night.

01tl4tl

Most of us could have done your brake job in the time it took to write this over and over~!
the TL has one of the easiest systems to swap parts on,,remove a wheel and look at whats in there- so it makes sense in pics and instuctions

Important note: I forgot to mention the brake line is secured to the strut
remove that bolt- its 10mm,,
NOTE the position the line sits when installed, as you twist it slightly during this procedure.
with that off -you can remove the caliper from its bracket

NOTE!!! do not hang the caliper from the brake line!!!!
Use a wire coat hanger or a few plastic zip-ties together to make a long one
carefully move caliper up and out of the way- attach to strut spring

sorry I forgot that before

01tl4tl

if you post your city, there are probably ziners near you with experience in brake work- who can at least teach/supervise and verify the bolts are tight

01tl4tl

public kudos are all the pay any of us get,,
thank you for the opportunity to share information sitting around in my brain... getting dusty

its good to know my words are heard and at least partially understood
this helps me in writing a self help book- tune-up for the Human Mind type stuff

Your questions are not stupid, some have been answered many times before so ck the diys and thread titles before asking-- if possible
All of us started with zero knowledge of cars, then at some point went to current skill or knowledge level

Acurazine taught me everything specific to the TL, many things are very different than other cars,,like this special bleed order-- that many techs dont know!

lojik

If I understand correctly you don't mean to remove/unscrew the brake line itself from the caliper , just some clip with a bolt that keeps the line attached/secured to the strut so it doesn't move around. Obviously that clip/holder needs to be removed so I can move the caliper away to work. Again no unscrewing of the brake line itself from the calipers of any kind period. Got it.

01tl4tl

thats correct- at no point will you touch the bolt connecting brake line to caliper
Just the little clip securing it from snagging the wheel in motion

again- once the wheel is removed- it all makes sense
ohh the 2 small bolts uh huh- and there is the line holder clip ok
now ease caliper off and secure to shock spring
remove pads from bracket- note how they clip in one end then the other
now the 2 bolts on bracket and it comes off, pop off the metal slider pads and clean- they get lubed

now the 2 rotor screws, and it comes loose- sometimes needs encouragment from a hammer

use old pad and caliper tool- push piston 90% of the way in

carb or brake cleaner- the new rotors prior to install, most have a packing grease you dont want the pads to touch!

farmdevil

01tl4tl should compile this work and he'll be well on his way to writing a service manual.

I'd probably go so far as to say that the TL has the easiest brake system I've worked on. It is a bit daunting at first and I normally suggest that first-timers enlist experienced help on their first job (I did). But once you do it you'll see that the brakes are one of the most mechanical and logical things you'll tackle on a car. This is one aspect that hasn't gotten confusing due to computerization. In fact, I really like when I can advise people on brake jobs because I feel like it's one aspect that I've really mastered.

farmdevil

Also, with regard to those torques, I really recommend buying the service manual if you are inclined to be doing more of your own repairs down the line.

01tl4tl

we usually have torque specs in the DIY,,but our main brake diy was lifted from another site,,you have to dig to find the real ziner produced diy,,
someday it will get moved to the correct place~
site volunteers move only so fast, and may be worth exactly what you pay them~

as said before: gen3 diys are often better `produced` and the brakes are the same (non brembo gen3)

a shop manual in the wrong hands is a dangerous thing!!
thats why azine exist- to make it simple for newer people
If I can explain something so a first timer can walk thru the procedure with a few glances to confirm the directions,,then my work is done
(how some keep screwing up seafoam is beyond my abilty to comprehend)

Those with experience shouldnt mind the extra detailed descriptions,,they were new once too!
advanced types get the basic info they need and go do the work

example- ck diy for parts list, extra things needed like caliper grease etc and go to work