75k. Help please

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Old 07-09-2009, 04:51 PM
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75k. Help please

Today I was using my fathers Tl-p.
I look down and the odo reads 75000.

The car has been a little sluggish on acceleration lately. You need to give it more gas to achieve the acceleration like it used to be when it was newer. He recently did a STP fuel injector cleaner procedure and it helped the issue somewhat, but nothing major.
Being pretty familiar with these cars, I can do some mechanical work on it, so is there anything that would be worth trying before taking it to the dealer? Maybe like a Seafoam or something? Maybe change the plugs?
-Also, would cleaning the EGR ports help this issue any? If so, how would I go about doing that?

On another note, when the car is in park, but still running there is an odd vibration that is not constant, but rather it comes in a very steady pace. Almost like it is ran on a timer.

Has anybody ever heard of this? What could it be?

-And lastly, what is the regular maintenance for 75,000 miles.

I apologize if this has been posted before.
Old 07-09-2009, 05:21 PM
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I'd think you might be looking at plugs and/or a dirty throttle body. After I changed the plugs and shortly thereafter cleaned the TB the car came alive again.

The vibration might be a broken engine mount. I'd inspect them.

Has your father been getting the regular maintenance?
Old 07-09-2009, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rob-2
I'd think you might be looking at plugs and/or a dirty throttle body. After I changed the plugs and shortly thereafter cleaned the TB the car came alive again.

The vibration might be a broken engine mount. I'd inspect them.

Has your father been getting the regular maintenance?


also seafoaming is good, see diy section for step by step on how to do that. look near the end of the thread for current procedures.

engine mount is also very common at that mileage....does it shift very hard going into reverse or drive?
Old 07-09-2009, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by niju321


also seafoaming is good, see diy section for step by step on how to do that. look near the end of the thread for current procedures.

engine mount is also very common at that mileage....does it shift very hard going into reverse or drive?
-Yes. Regular maintenance has been done.
-It does not shift hard at all, actually quite smooth between R,P,&D

And if my memory serves me correctly, MM's were replaced about 10k miles ago.

Also, whats invlolved in cleaning the TB?
Old 07-09-2009, 06:14 PM
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remove the entire rubber snout from the air filter box to the TB
Spray carb cleaner at the big round plate inside TB- open plate to get both sides and the edges

Use little brothers toothbrush if it needs scrubbing
be prepared to wipe up black flowing crud

75, its ready for exactly what you think- seafoam the manifold vac and gas- a week later new NGK Iridium plugs and pull the intake manifold to clean the EGR ports-- do the TB cleaning when manifold off- same hose removed and you have total access

makes car run like new

stp is ok but needs 3 bottle in 3 tanks at max doseage to equal a good blast with redline fuel injector cleaner or seafoam-
I like redline in the tank- been using it for decades
Old 07-09-2009, 07:21 PM
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Thank you VERY much.
is there any links that have previously been posted that show pics on how to clean TB?
I will look in DIY now
Old 07-09-2009, 10:12 PM
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there is a TB pic somewhere, but it too simple if you just look at it
You open the plate to the flat postion by moving the throttle mechanism by hand, its right there
You have to remove the big plastic top engine cover to get to all
thats 4 small bolts to remove- no big deal
Old 07-09-2009, 10:23 PM
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if you pull the intake manifold to clean the egr ports-its about a 2-3 hour job total time
the TL is known to have them nearly plugged solid by 75, then the TB is off the car and off the manifold where its easy to work on

You flip the TB over and remove a small cover plate- inside is the IAC idle air control valve
-remove and clean it- reinstall- now spray the crud off the big plate -brush if needed
Cleaner is better!!- less airflow disruption and better seal at idle = smoother

The PCV smog system pushes partially unburnt fuel vapor and crankcase oil vapors from the front valve cover- thru a metal tube and right into the rubber snout just before the TB!!
Nice thing to have spraying at the TB plate~

When the car is at idle the plate is vertical/closed- limiting air to the engine
When you push the throttle pedal the linkage makes the plate open to horizontal and full airflow
Using Deep Creep (aerosol seafoam) to clean it- also lubes the hidden pivot lever the plate moves on across its centerline
Spray the throttle springs and inside the cables while its apart- then good for another few years before that needs doing again-
deep creep leaves behind a nice protecting oil that lubes-removes moisture-prevents corrosion,,similar to wd in some uses, there are 1000s of things it works on,, removes road tar on the car, removes melted boot edge from bike exhaust!! (oops)
Old 07-11-2009, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
if you pull the intake manifold to clean the egr ports-its about a 2-3 hour job total time
the TL is known to have them nearly plugged solid by 75, then the TB is off the car and off the manifold where its easy to work on

You flip the TB over and remove a small cover plate- inside is the IAC idle air control valve
-remove and clean it- reinstall- now spray the crud off the big plate -brush if needed
Cleaner is better!!- less airflow disruption and better seal at idle = smoother

The PCV smog system pushes partially unburnt fuel vapor and crankcase oil vapors from the front valve cover- thru a metal tube and right into the rubber snout just before the TB!!
Nice thing to have spraying at the TB plate~

When the car is at idle the plate is vertical/closed- limiting air to the engine
When you push the throttle pedal the linkage makes the plate open to horizontal and full airflow
Using Deep Creep (aerosol seafoam) to clean it- also lubes the hidden pivot lever the plate moves on across its centerline
Spray the throttle springs and inside the cables while its apart- then good for another few years before that needs doing again-
deep creep leaves behind a nice protecting oil that lubes-removes moisture-prevents corrosion,,similar to wd in some uses, there are 1000s of things it works on,, removes road tar on the car, removes melted boot edge from bike exhaust!! (oops)

Will Gumout carb and choke cleaner do the trick for the egr and TB?
Old 07-12-2009, 03:03 PM
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try doing a transmission flush......makes shifting smoother
Old 07-12-2009, 03:31 PM
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id run the seafoam through a vacuum line, add it to the gas tank and run it in the oil before doing an oil change. id also change the air filter and spark plugs. i had changed mine at about 45k because my gas mileage was horrible. you could clean out the egr port too cuz that wouldnt hurt.
Old 07-12-2009, 03:32 PM
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flush- be careful on definition of that word
'Acura means drain and refill- in the outside world of shops it means a machine power flush- those are bad for the TL

gumout or any brand carb cleaner will remove buildup from egr ports once the manifold is removed from the car-
some scrubbing and use of force may be required. Most ziners report 3 cans to clean everything
Old 07-12-2009, 03:34 PM
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juan- seafoam goes in a specific vac port- not just any vac line
Not all feed all 6 cylinders thru the manifold!!! thats bad

Use the one at the TB/manifold connection on gen2
and on top of the manifold at TB gen3
Thats a main full vac port
Also spray thru the TB at its round plate- both sides
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