I started a thread about this problem before but never tried to correct the problem until today. So I went to the mechanic he cleaned out the throttle body and the valve set rotary air control, but it still revs up and down. My mechanic said I might need a new throttle body in which cost about $400 bucks.

What else might be the problem?
Does anyone know a place I can get a cheaper throttle body?
Do I need a new throttle body?


<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid395.photobucket.com/albums/pp35/TLGOD84/VID00028-20091013-1628.flv">

 

 

Just because he cleaned it doesnt mean its good. It may be just faulty. Another symptom may be a vac leak somewhere.

 

This leak must be bad cuz I hate how it feels when ever I put it from Drive to Reverse and vise versa, it jerks really hard cuz the RPMs r so high.

Can you tell me a way you can find the leak?????

 

Iacv..... For sure!!!!!!!

 

What is the IACV and where is it???

 

idle air control valve, it's responsible for maintaining idle. it's right under the throttle body, i had the same problem you had, i replaced it and it worked. it's about $160 from the dealer, but like kris said it could be a vacuum leak.

 

i just noticed in the vid, do you have a CEL? if so have you had the codes read?

 

Yea it was a vac leak, but Im going to see if there is a leak somewhere else. Im still going to order a new IACV

 

cool, it'll give you peace of mind that the problem won't come back. i noticed you said "your mechanic" but i dunno if you plan on doing this yourself, but make sure you have a new throttle body gasket, because you are going to have to take the throttle body off to remove the IACV. once replaced, you'll want to make sure you torque the throttle body down otherwise it'll act up. find the torque values in the thermoblock spacers DIY.

 

i had this exact same problem last winter.... i replaced the *iacv* .... and it's fine afterwards...

 

kool thanks guys

 

many clean the IACV when the TB and manifold are off to clean the EGR ports or install a thermoblock spacer
Its located on the bottem side of the TB assembly under a round cover with 2 screws
If the TB is removed from car and turned about- it will clog the iacv-
if the TB is off the car for any reason the iacv needs to be cleaned- basic science
remove cover and disc- clean and reassemble
cheaper than a new one if its just dirty

One could spray clean the TB throat and call it cleaned

strange vac leaks are the front and rear motor mounts on certain years- they are vac line boosted to stiffen at rpm- a leaking mount leaks vac too
Visually ck mounts from under car, look for oil trace

 

Well I did take out my front mount and put innovative mounts (the originals lol - never had a problem with them), I saw the cable that connected to the OEM mounts. Im going to double check it today and order myself a new IACV. Thanks

 

a cable to the front mount, no- thats an open vacuum line!!!
make sure the rear one is good too

I saw you had the trick mounts but wrote general info for others with similar problem- so they look for the strange

 

dont order the iacv until you have tried simply cleaning it
30 minute diy- remove TB assembly, flip over and there is the job
use tb cleaner or carb spray
Seafoam aerosol is good thru the main throttle air plate- it will lube the hinge pivots for that plate-carb cleaner wont

buy new tb to manifold gasket before working on this- you will need it

 

Im going to clean everything out again, I ordered a new IACV anyway so Ill just put it in and a new tb gasket. Im going to check out that other line I saw under the car and double check the line for the rear mount. THANKS

 

you will need to cap/plug the former front mount vac line to cure the leak

 

hey where was the leak from? im hav sung same problem its a pain in the ass

 

Old thread but common problem. Don't know if his only leak was the one that was mentioned in the posts but the front and rear motor mounts have vacuum actuation. Near the left side firewall there is line that goes down through a 3 way barb connector and one line runs down and to toward the passenger side motor mount, the other runs along the left subframe to the front motor mount. If nobody has touched these in a while it is a common area to leak. If you took off your throttle body recently and didn't clean off the old gasket and use a new one it is probably leaking. As the old thread says the IACV is always a prime culprit for poor idle.

 

really huh, ok well I shall check it out.such a frustration.the first thing I did was clean the tb,and phelum,but I didn't use a knew gasket.so im gonna start with that.i really appreciate your time.ty

 

^
Check the vacuum hoses #29 & 30 to see if they are connected to #11.
Last time mine had the 'up&down' idle one of those was disconnected.

 

wow awesome thanks, what a nice diagram

 

I have just gone through this issue with car and after replacing the IACV 3 times and all vacuum hoses my buddy me finally tried a used throttle body and that cured the idle surge. I've noticed a lot of other forums and youtube address this as an IACV issue only. And yes that is the first go to. But if that doesn't fix it you will have to trouble shoot it some more. Now this is the order I did it, but I would do step 3 first in hind sight. 1st after you change the IACV replace the lost coolant and purge all the air out as much as you can. Yes, coolant. I never had a car that ran coolant like a Acura and I literally thought my buddy was bullshitin me like buds do, but it helped slow the surge. Step 2. In troubleshooting, check and replace all cracked or worn vacuum lines(luckily there's not much, or this could get costly). Step 3. Check the voltage to the IACV plug. No voltage means bad harness. Final check was a guess as we ran out of options and no forum out there said to do this. Replace throttle body, Now you don't have to rush out and buy a brand new one. I'm not made of cash and I like to recycle when I can so go to a yard of whom you trust or has a good rep and buy a used one. I got mine for 40.00 and she runs like a thurough bread horse. Idle surge gone. Hope this helps and good luck. I gave you more info than anyone else gave me and some mechanics too.

 

You have to remove the throttle body to get to it but it's on the bottom of the throttle body held in by 2 screws and 2 coolant lines. You can get one as cheap as 29.00(not recommended) or as high as 120.00. I went mid price and found it on rockauto.com. Easy site to navigate and order and has various delivery options.

 

It can be a 'hit &miss' with these almost 20 y/o vehicles.
The OP on the thread below had mixed results with replacing the throttle body:
P0505 - Idle - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

 

Good to hear you got that solved. For those people in the future that have the same issue, Do NOT buy any of those cheap IACV units from Amazon or eBay . I have taken apart the cheap ones and an OEM unit the OEM unit is definitely much higher quality; the bearings in the cheap ones are not pressed in they are floating and this allows the vane plate inside to oscillate changing the original idle problem but not fixing it. Either use a reputable part company (SMP or equivalent) or the OEM. By the way for those that can afford a new throttle body unit it comes with the IACV and the MAP sensor but not the gasket. Used throttle bodies are worth a try.

Congrats on getting it running correctly.