2003 Acura TL Type-s timing crank and cam shafts
#41
Obviously I couldn’t get the engine up to “normal operating temp” because it runs so rough. I did the compression test today. Happy that I now know I bent some valves instead of loosing my mind wondering why the timing belt was screwing with me. I knew I had it lined up but I guess the damage was already done..
Got some pretty scary results. Next step will be to pull the whole top ends off to the machine shop..
#5
#1
Results
#4
#3
#6
#2
Got some pretty scary results. Next step will be to pull the whole top ends off to the machine shop..
#5
#1
Results
#4
#3
#6
#2
#42
From the looks of things you should have a fine running engine once you get the heads redone/replaced, as the compression readings in the good cylinders are very good. Take pictures of everything before you start turning bolts, that way you will have a very good reference to consult, if you aren't sure how things go back together. Taking the heads off is the easy part, reinstalling them in the correct manner just takes some time/knowledge, when tightening down the head bolts. It can be rather easy to snap a head bolt off, if you are using a big 1/2" drive torque wrench. Get access to a good torque wrench so torquing the head bolts portion of the job is done right. Do not tighten the head bolts until you are sure of this procedure and understand it completely. It sure isn't rocket science and take you time, doing the job correctly the first time around. The turtle hare thing. I believe you can get an head gasket set from Mahle that has all of the gaskets, valve stem seals and head bolts all in 1 box ready to go. Bring the new valves, valve stem seals and heads to the reputable auto machine shop and let them take it from there.
If you do the math when the crankshaft is spinning at 7,000 RPM that means the camshafts are spinning at 3,500 RPM. Divide 3,500 RPM camshaft speed by 60 seconds in a minute would mean the intake and exhaust valves are opening and closing at 58 times a second. When mechanical objects are traveling at that rate close tolerances are usually needed and thousands of an inch count for a lot. It doesn't take much to bend a intake/exhaust valve to the point where the heads need to get redone.
If you do the math when the crankshaft is spinning at 7,000 RPM that means the camshafts are spinning at 3,500 RPM. Divide 3,500 RPM camshaft speed by 60 seconds in a minute would mean the intake and exhaust valves are opening and closing at 58 times a second. When mechanical objects are traveling at that rate close tolerances are usually needed and thousands of an inch count for a lot. It doesn't take much to bend a intake/exhaust valve to the point where the heads need to get redone.
#44
Stay away from garbage cheap gasket sets that have head bolts, valves, all gaskets, along with valve seals for a ridiculous price that can be found online. 1 example of this type of garbage is Performance Parts gasket sets, which used car dealers love to use. You do get what you pay for and use quality valves and gaskets in your project. When it is too good to be true....... Since the valves got bent from the engine being hand cranked over, the valves shouldn't have done any damage to the piston nor the combustion chamber, since the engine didn't grenade from valve float, with the engine running. Mr. Saudade astutely points out, that it is best to check everything twice, especially if you are preforming maintenance on very high performance machines. I like to use American made products and have never had a problem with QualCast valves, made in Music City TN. They are slightly more expensive then most options out there, but their pieces are made from quality alloys and not made as cheap as possible from over yonder.
#45
Yea I plan on removing the heads myself. It’s going to be a job to say the least…and with the weather getting colder it’s going to be even more fun. I’ll probably start by removing the headers. I have DC sport headers I put in a few years back with a Highflow cat and ATLP cat-back exhaust. Fingers crossed the bolts won’t be to bad but by the look of them it’ll be a great time Going to start working on it tomorrow or all this weekend basically. If the piston(s) have some touch marks on them but no damage they should be good to go I’m assuming? Obviously I cannot conduct a leak test until the valves are in order which sucks..
#46
Stay away from garbage cheap gasket sets that have head bolts, valves, all gaskets, along with valve seals for a ridiculous price that can be found online. 1 example of this type of garbage is Performance Parts gasket sets, which used car dealers love to use. You do get what you pay for and use quality valves and gaskets in your project. When it is too good to be true....... Since the valves got bent from the engine being hand cranked over, the valves shouldn't have done any damage to the piston nor the combustion chamber, since the engine didn't grenade from valve float, with the engine running. Mr. Saudade astutely points out, that it is best to check everything twice, especially if you are preforming maintenance on very high performance machines. I like to use American made products and have never had a problem with QualCast valves, made in Music City TN. They are slightly more expensive then most options out there, but their pieces are made from quality alloys and not made as cheap as possible from over yonder.
#47
This guy here makes working on vehicles, especially 20 year old cars much easier. A real time saver and a worth while investment if you are going to be working on your car. I bought mine separate and the batteries, charger in another deal. The batteries are the big money aspect and sometimes pays to look around to see what is out there. Snap On just dumped a bunch of their 3/8" drive deep 6 point metric impact socket sets from their stocks into the marketplace and I snatched up a new 14 piece set for under 180.00.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...enches/2854-20
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...enches/2854-20
#48
I always splurge and try and get the best quality parts for sure. I don’t know much about gaskets and valves though. Any links to some good products ? I’ll need 2 head gaskets valve cover gasket set. Should I bother with the intake gaskets or just reuse them? I’ve been ordering some parts for rock auto lately. I feel like they have good stuff if your willing to pay..
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=5544&jsn=850
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=5328&jsn=854
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=5416&jsn=861
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=5308&jsn=872
1 large can of Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster.
#49
Wrong impact model link. This is the one you want with 600 ft lbs of torque to break most everything loose. Doesn't work on all crank harmonic bolts, but sure does work on everything else. Do not use on full power when tightening down fasteners, all it could ruin your day quickly.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...enches/2960-20
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...enches/2960-20
#50
Wrong impact model link. This is the one you want with 600 ft lbs of torque to break most everything loose. Doesn't work on all crank harmonic bolts, but sure does work on everything else. Do not use on full power when tightening down fasteners, all it could ruin your day quickly.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...enches/2960-20
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produc...enches/2960-20
#51
It is a really awesome tool, as it replaces air impact guns and generates more torque then most1/2" drive air impact guns. I use the larger 1/2" impact on inrail engine overhauls in class 8 trucks. Small size, bright LED White lights on the front which does come in handy from time to time and breaks loose fasteners quickly. The frustration factor is lessened tremendously and helps to keep your blood pressure in check. Air impact tools are a thing of the past. I sold all of my Snap On impact guns and was glad to get the money. You can get deals on the pieces separately. A 3.0 battery will last all day and them some. I had a gift certificate at Northern Tools and I bought just the gun there. I then looked around and found a good deal on a 3.0 battery charger setup online and snagged it. A great investment for the tool box.
#52
The bold & underlined above is what scares me.
If you find yourself in need of a cylinder head(s), and don't want to have them rebuilt locally, the below vendors can supply them for $$$.
Very important, just make sure to stipulate that you have a 2003 TL Type-S; J32A2 engine so that you get heads for that engine and not a TL-P J32A1.
Wholesale Powertrain Remanufactured, Replacement Transmission, Transfer Cases & Engines Distributor (go-powertrain.com)
ACURA Honda TL 3.2 3.5 SOHC #P8E V6 CYLINDER HEAD (cylinder-heads.com)
Acura Cylinder Heads | Cylinder Heads
Good Luck!
If you find yourself in need of a cylinder head(s), and don't want to have them rebuilt locally, the below vendors can supply them for $$$.
Very important, just make sure to stipulate that you have a 2003 TL Type-S; J32A2 engine so that you get heads for that engine and not a TL-P J32A1.
Wholesale Powertrain Remanufactured, Replacement Transmission, Transfer Cases & Engines Distributor (go-powertrain.com)
ACURA Honda TL 3.2 3.5 SOHC #P8E V6 CYLINDER HEAD (cylinder-heads.com)
Acura Cylinder Heads | Cylinder Heads
Good Luck!
#53
The Odesa or cylinder-heads.com one I found with a J32A2 cylinder head google search one day. They have an ebay store as well; however, they charge more than their actual website page. I mainly kept it because they are local to me in the state of Florida.
The last one, cylinderhead.com was also a 'bookmarked' link found during a J32A2 cylinder head google search for the reasons that you state, though I never ordered from them or any of the others.
I just kept them to have a starting place in case I ever needed a source on day.
#54
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...4-pge-a02.html
https://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/...1-pge-a00.html
#55
Center punch and then left-hand drills. Start with 1/8 and go up. Al bolts that I have to deal with go out in no time last 10 years or so. Tbh I do not have much to deal with it as I'm spraying everything with Cosmoline, Fluid film, Cold galvanizing. For manifold I use Cold galvanizing.
#56
Our cars go to the junkyard usually because of bad transmissions. So heads at junkyards should be good. Generally it is not big job to pull heads off if you already removed timing belt.
#57
I got down to this yesterday. Almost there. The front head looks way better than the rear.
#60
Hey timbo, I see your located in CA, any chance your near Redding CA?.. if you are, you might be in for a wonderful surprise. Come see me.. . I have parts.. if your near by, I prefer you try me before heading to the junk yard.
#61
Center punch and then left-hand drills. Start with 1/8 and go up. Al bolts that I have to deal with go out in no time last 10 years or so. Tbh I do not have much to deal with it as I'm spraying everything with Cosmoline, Fluid film, Cold galvanizing. For manifold I use Cold galvanizing.
#63
^^^ At forum for my F250 99 LD a commentator said if you go to Ford dealership for exhaust manifold gasket replacement and a bolt broke at manifold they would charge 1500$ for extraction at top of price for replacement. Would not take me more than 1/2 hour to drill it out with left hand drills. Even if do damage to threads should be easy to rethread. I do not doubt that dealer do not spend more than 1/2 hour at it too.
#64
Thanks. Fingers crossed. I got all the bolts off the exhaust headers already. Nothing broke thankfully. Just gotta drain the head, oil and remove the side coolant housing unit. Then tackle the head bolts and they should be out of there.
#66
I don’t have a final decision yet. The plan is to pull the heads flip them over and see how they look. I’m a little weary of ordering some online. Might just see how many valves I need, get them ordered from Acura and bring to the machine shop. Might cost a little more but I least I know I got genuine parts. We’ll see though.
The following users liked this post:
zeta (11-21-2022)
#67
Before you buy anything, get parts from me, I have a whole, j32a2 motor, j32a1 motor, also j35a8 motors outside. Parts of the motor might be good. Depending on how much this fix is going to cost you, it will most likely be cheaper coming to me. Maybe just get Heads my j32a2 and use that… This will be the last time I will bring it up.. sorry to bug you about it.. I might charge you a pack of smokes… lol.. but whatever you need. It’s all yours or to anybody reading this post.. I work a lot, so might not get to a response from me right away.
#68
Before you buy anything, get parts from me, I have a whole, j32a2 motor, j32a1 motor, also j35a8 motors outside. Parts of the motor might be good. Depending on how much this fix is going to cost you, it will most likely be cheaper coming to me. Maybe just get Heads my j32a2 and use that… This will be the last time I will bring it up.. sorry to bug you about it.. I might charge you a pack of smokes… lol.. but whatever you need. It’s all yours or to anybody reading this post.. I work a lot, so might not get to a response from me right away.
#69
Oh dang, I thought CA(Canada) meant California, boy was I wrong. Well, I’ll see how much it is to ship it to you. Don’t worry, I’m not expecting any money from you. … (what are my motives here, you ask, well, it a pain in the butt and these cars are getting old, even though I love them to death, I no longer have my CL-S, parts are just sitting out in the weather with very minimal coverage and parts might still be good. Iono, you kinda get the picture, if your interested, I am willing to help you out. Thats all.. lol… what a drama of a post.. to who ever is reading this that needs Parts, hit me up, I have an acura 2002 CL-P (silver), J32a2 motor/transmission. 2005 Acura RL(white) and a motor j35a8 motor. 4 motors total and 2 shells with full interior. . I have to clean the yard soon, all this is going to go to waste..
Last edited by Dee Saelee; 11-23-2022 at 03:18 AM.
#70
#71
^
Try this link that Jon M provided to another member. Just click the 'download' button.
This link is to the service manual you can download for free. https://www.dropbox.com/s/alzlpd489p...ANUAL.pdf?dl=0
#76
Cylinder 1 is where I got a 0 on the compression test.
Then on the other head I got a 52 in the middle one (#5) but I can’t see the bend in it.. must be a slight bend.
I’ll drop them off at the machine shop this week.
Then on the other head I got a 52 in the middle one (#5) but I can’t see the bend in it.. must be a slight bend.
I’ll drop them off at the machine shop this week.
The following users liked this post:
zeta (12-04-2022)
#78
Dang! That s***s but it is what was expected after the compression readings. Since you have it apart now it's a good time to check the rear motor mount. Make sure it holds a vacuum. Should be details in the manual. If it doesn't hold a vacuum right now it is easy to reach.
If you don't mind, what is the machine shop charging?
If you don't mind, what is the machine shop charging?
#80
Dang! That s***s but it is what was expected after the compression readings. Since you have it apart now it's a good time to check the rear motor mount. Make sure it holds a vacuum. Should be details in the manual. If it doesn't hold a vacuum right now it is easy to reach.
If you don't mind, what is the machine shop charging?
If you don't mind, what is the machine shop charging?