Hi,
I have an acura TL 2002. The engine is very hot after driving / idling for 10 mins. the temperature gauge would quickly hit the top after 10 mins. when I shut down the engine, the fan is always on for 5-10 mins to cool down. when I open the hood, I could always feel the hot air rising from the engine.
The coolant is fine and not leaking; radiator is new
is it possibly the water pump problem??????

another problem is the noise when I turn
when I drive on high way after half an hour, there is noise when I turn the wheel, but no noise when I go straight
is something wrong with the power steering / the ball joint ???

thank you for reading and replying my first post

 

Welcome Billylo !!!
Check to make sure that both fans are running when the engine is hot and running. Was the T-stat replaced with the new radiator, maybe it's stuck closed ? Do both upper & lower rad hoses feel the same temperature ? Check that the T-stat is working first .....if not, make sure to use a Honda 2 stage OEM T-stat for best results. The cooling system needs to be purged of any air pockets any time that it's opened up for the ECT sensor to work properly.

Concerning the noise while turning the steering wheel.....does it happen turning either direction ? Any difference in slower speeds such as parking, compared to highway maneuvering ? Check the PS belt and pump's fluid. Try to explain the type of noise better if you can. Could be steering, suspension, brakes ......maybe a wheel bearing ?

 

how many miles on the water pump and timing belt?
you MUST do a proper BURP of air from rad system per owner book!!!! after any work- replacement parts has been done in cooling system,
that's with heater on full and several cycles of idle and 2000 rpm till fan operation

free download of book at www.owners.acura.com need cars VIN to register as owner

typically when driver side fan (primary fan) runs 10 minutes after shutdown its time to replace ` fan sensor A` located passenger side of rad on rear side- screws in to fitting.
note: that's AFTER for sure no air in system=as air pocket will trick a good sensor

 

stop driving the car!!!!! no kidding - every time you redline the temp you come that much closer to blowing head gaskets and warping the heads- the real $$$$ part of the problem
At that point its easier to replace the entire engine with a junkyard unit than buy redone heads and repair whatever other damage from overheats
aluminum touching steel does not like high heat!!
notice our car runs dead steady at 1 or 2 lines below half regardless of conditions?
there is a very good reason for that,,even plain Hondas let the temp move, but ours is made to stay perfectly level temp controlled