Yesterday, when driving (luckily) on a local road, the ignition key light (on the dash) flashed once or twice, and within a few minutes the car came to a halt and engines shut off.

I was able to put it back on parking and restart without a problem.

Any thoughts on the issue. Could it be a loose ignitiion key or something larger?

SR.

 

I would suspect the ignition switch, since its a 99. Common (recalled) problem.

It's an easy replacement though.

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-99-tl-ignition-switch-686000/

 

Get the ignition switch replaced. Call Acura Customer Care and ask if it's been replaced on your car before.

 

And if it hasn't been replaced yet, Acura will install a new one for free.

If you have to buy one, it's about $100.

My 1999 TL is on its third ignition switch. Even the replacements can and do fail.

 

Thanks all for your responses.

It appears Acura fixed it in 2002, so now they won't do it for free.

Do you think the switch would be defective or just a loose connection? I checked online and a new switch is around $65.

SR.

 

These switches have known reliability problems so it's a pretty good bet that it's a bad switch.

And $65 is a good price for the switch.

If you install it yourself, watch out for the third "mystery screw" that you may run into. It's one of three screws that holds a plastic cover under the streering wheel and it's discussed in the DIY thread linked above.

That screw is not mentioned in the Helm manual but it was installed in my 1999 TL. It seems like some TLs have it while others don't.

It's pretty hard to see and it made my switch replacement a real hassle until I found it.

 

Its your switch.

 

Took the Acura to a Tires Plus dealer. He did a full Electrical Check and said nothing is wrong with the ignition switch. Also, he said if the vehicle starts after it stops, then the ignition switch should not be the problem (true ?).

Since the Check Engine Light was ON, he did a engine diagnostic, and reported the bad news. He said its due to the transmission that the car stopped in the road.

Here are the codes in the order:

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P1676 Traction Control System FI Data Line No Signal
P1491 EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected

Thoughts? Do you think its the tranny that is causing it?

Thanks

SR.

 

Ignition switches are notorious for displaying intermittent problems. So the "full electrical check" can absolutely miss an ignition switch problem. And my 1999 Acura TL would start after it stalled out so that advice is off the mark also.

But I don't know if you're having transmission problems from those codes. Try searching for those codes in this forum. Or perhaps another forum member wil comment.

And, in general, I'd probably take any repair advice from a Tires Plus dealer with a grain of salt.

 

what the heck was tire place doing looking at anything but your tires?
If they moved the key in the ignition it will make the reading jump
What they told you was advice from a tire shop~ Serves you right for abusing the TL like that!

Advice from actual TL owners:
replace the ignition switch first

Is the trans doing any slipping? or other known trans failure symptoms?
4 speeds were very reliable trans units and never have I heard of one stopping the engine as described
5 speed on the other hand--If it stops- it does it from suddenly from 70mph when it breaks 2nd gear shaft,, and wont go anywhere!

Anyone know- 99s get the oil jet kit too?

 

for the rest of the codes- if the trans is ok- seafoam the vac port and gas tank to clean everything and restore good numbers

low egr- could be clogged egr port in manifold
99 only had 1 port- easily clogged- has a RECALL on it to clean and install a sleeve that doesnt solve the problem
00 and on should clean the 6 egr ports in manifold about 75k miles, remove manifold to do-
call acura to see whats been done on your car and if any open recalls which are free to you
1-800-382-2238 x5 need VIN

 

Will acura replace the switch even though its been a looooooooong time?

 

I think we can all safely say that Tires Plus is not qualified to solve this problem. If it were my car, I would replace the ignition switch for 65 bucks and then monitor the vehicle.

Remember the fastest way from points A and B is a straight line...try the obvious and then monitor accordingly...

 

ft laud- if you have a 99 and the recall says OPEN on your owner log at acura.com
or you called and asked at 1-800-382-2238x5
If its not been fixed EVER- then its free at the dealer- its a recall for safety issue
If acura has replaced it once- they are done. On you after that for the 65 bucks

Special extended warranties do have limits on time/miles, like 10/150 on the SRS and seatbelts, but recalls - in general -dont

 

New to the forum, but have owned Acura's (5 so far) &, for the most part, a happy customer. I've owned 99 tl since day one, had the ignition switch replaced already, but it sounds like I need another 1. Similar symptoms that you all have posted about, but when it shuts while I am driving, it sometimes takes awhile for ALL the power (stereo, gauge, a/c) to come back on, almost like there is a short to the battery & I have had the little smoke come from top of steering column(by the gauges) but I can't find 1 wire that is melted or blackened at all. The smoke/wire smell only comes into play when the a/c is on. Can this all be tied to the ignition switch? Thanks for any insight you can share.

 

Yes.

A replacement switch is relatively cheap and you can install it yourself. See the DIY link above.

I would just replace it.

My 1999 TL is on its third ignition switch. The replacement switches can and do fail.

 

jebus, how many recalls have there been on these cars

 

I have a 99 also and yesterday while driving my key light (green on the dash) flashed once or twice then went off. My car didn't stop or anything. strange?????

 

today my car shut off while driving too .. well first jerked (sorta shut off and kicked back in ) and than after 2 miles shut off totally...

the mechanic said its the fuel pump.. but now i hear ignition switch? any thoughts..

 

Bob_F & 01tl4tl.... U guys kick a$$.. I replaced the ignition switch. The "mystery screw" was lots of fun, but it solved a ton of other issues. It sounds like a new(220K) right after I turned the key..killing issue, gone...it's unbelievable. I also seafoam'd it.. not sure on the results yet.
However I still have 1 major issue.. Temp gauge. About two weeks ago I had coolant coming out after a mrs. long drive (of course, paying no attention to the gauges) coolant was coming out the bottom, I couldn't find any leaks, but the spring on the radiator cap was broken off, replaced it w/ Murrays cap, (O'Reilly's) since then temp gauge in car will shoot 2 High from just idling @ home w/ no A/C on, worse is driving around block, accelerate=shoots high.. brake=it drops & when I turn off the car, the secondary fan will run forever even after it's only been running a few minutes. It's like taking a compass & spinning in circles (best analogy I can come up w/) Car had yet to "over heat" even when needle is way past High level... I know the coolant is older yet it's still full, but this started 2 happen the moment I notice the original cap issue & replaced the cap.. Coincendence???

 

champ and lak- immediatly replace the ignition switch- no kidding

mnacuraholic- the driver side fan will run on and on when the coolant level in the radiator drops- thats a problem
Is that the one running.. or the passenger side?

When you say temp read HIGH level- exactly where on the guage- at the red?
It should never run more than a tick below halfway~~
80mph 100F and ac blasting in the mountains- stays just under half all the time
if its hit the red zone a few times damage has set in to the head gasket(s) and possibly more. May not show yet but....

Since your car now starts great lets hope there is no damage
I am guessing its time for water pump again- every 105k miles you have to do that with the timing belt
coolant should be replaced every 5 years but wont cause the loss of fluid descibed by OP

If you have never done the water pump job on this car- stop driving the car immedialtly- the water pump has a small hole cast in the bottem that allows coolant to leak (to signal a problem with internal oring seal) and and stains the metal crusty, makes a trail as it winds down the block and onto the garage floor.
Look for that with a mechanics inspection mirror- small round mirror on extendable rod- sold at parts store for a few dollars

The res bottle must be kept at proper level- fill to cold mark with engine cold and rad full.
The rubber tube inside its cap must fit tight and be there sitting in coolant- if no coolant in res bottle it sucks air in rad = problem
The radiator must be full in order for the system to work transferring coolant back and forth
Air in the radiator from low fluid level will fool the temp sensor for the fan and make it run, or that may be a fan sensor failure causing fan run on- pretty common failure on this car with this many miles sir

You said the temp and fluid loss problem started with aftermarket rad cap?- you did retrieve the broken spring?
Of the few parts I say to buy direct from your acura/honda dealer: the radiator cap and thermostat are right up there on the list- go buy new part

Replace the rad cap with honda part of correct pressure
See if pressure marked on current replacement cap on there is same as stock cap?
12 13 14 15 etc
Thermostat could be causing you problems if not opening at all- the water cant flow out of the block and quickly overheats
Honda thermostat only for that!!!

Hint to all: when saying which fan runs or what suspension part is funky etc..
please state part location relative to the seated drivers point of view- driver side items are left side of car
fans are driver and passenger, or left and right,- driver is primary fan and pass runs with ac and in times of dire need~

hope that gives you things to check and report findings

 

Thanks..01tl4tl? Well so much 4 a Labor-less Day. Looks like I have a few things to work on today...A few friends mentioned the possible head gasket problem as well..Here's hoping to u all being wrong..
Thanks again 4 your help & 01tl4tl was I correct in calling the fan secondary or should it had been called the drivers side fan??? Just want to be correct in the future.. To all, hope you have a Labor-less Day ahead of u!!

 

just call them driver and passenger side fans- everyone knows it that way and knows driver side is cooling--controlled by sensor thats a common failure part,
and passenger is run by the ac useage--ac on,, fan automatically on to pull more air thru the ac radiator and the engine radiator. You dont make cool you remove heat with airflow across hot/heat filled surface

I would `borrow` (free rent with full refund of `deposit` at parts stores) the tool to pressure test the cooling system- must be done cold!!!!- never!!! open rad cap hot or
2nd and 3rd degree burns will be a part of your life forever
It screws onto the rad cap fitting and pumps up operating pressure to the system
Where there is a leak- coolant will flow out

Many leaks are found under pressure only,, so wont drip on the floor overnight- but pressure test will reveal all

If the temp needle hit the redline once--- it has damaged the head(s) gasket but may not show for several months- monitor oil and coolant levels every day for any change/rise or loss- meaning one is leaking and going into the other system

If the temp needle redlined more than once--- and fluid poured out from unknown location as described--better do a special shop test for CO2 in the radiator- that will tell if exhaust gasses are getting into the coolant from head gasket leak
If there is severe head gasket leak- plan on damage to both heads- replace complete unit better than trying to fix a warped aluminum head --junkyard ones ok or rebuilt units ready to go on

I do give worst case examples: to make you check everything and find the real problem. All of this is possible, and it may be minor, meaning bad rad cap- bad thermostat- bad water pump...or it may be much worse and better to diagnose fully before dropping 1500 on a water pump job only to find damaged heads- at that point its cheaper to install a junkyard motor and keep driving
Note: junkyard used as a generic term for us older guys- they are now properly called and listed in phone book as `auto dismantling and recycling`--as that is truley what they do

Whats the miles on the currentr wp and timing belt? and was that 200km or miles?

 

see recent thread- timing belt shredded and broke, melted surrounding parts-
but shop told woman/wife to replace the belt, charged that job - then said there was valve damage from the broken timing belt,,have to pull the heads to inspect and probably replace,,,
On that car- broken timing belt means definite valve damage,,but they got customer to replace timing belt in order to turn engine over and test if it had other damage- what a scam!

owner ended up getting a junkyard engine DIY- it was bad, had to pull and install another one...fix a few probs on it and now running, but what an ordeal and expense
Shops can be frikker liars and wont be as detailed and honest as they should be IMO
of the full extent of the problem

I ran a shop- was a tech- worked every job in the industry except sales,,but knew those guys and got insider info on their scams, and its gotten worse with the economy

 

for the curious about my handle-01tl4tl
i drive an 01 TL-p, its 4 (for) tl- my initials,,Im just too lazy to go to upper case~=01tl4tl

When I first saw this car,,,how could I not buy it!!--with my initials already on the back!

 

lol nice

 

01tl4tl... You amaze yet again... It's great to know there are still a few out there that will give advice to ones who are willing to "try" to fix it themselves, feels good when person can, who otherwise would be screwed when it comes to mechanical work, save some $ by doing it themselves. Thank you once again & you are right..you had to by a tl w/ those initials!!
A couple answers to your ?'s, my TL has 220k miles; I'm pretty sure the water pump was replaced when the 1st timing belt was done(around 110k) The dealer did it & they'll always recommend additional service whenever they can..

The thermostat gauge, over the past couple wks has been very close to the red line (or H), but this last wk I purposely drove around the block, no a/c initially, it went to the red line, turned a/c on, went past red line & was almost touching the bottom of the white letter H. Keep in mind I had been driving the car from cold start & for a total of 5 minutes (temp outside was maybe 70-75 degrees F). When I have had it on the highway, the temp stabilized w/ no a/c, but as soon as u turned it on, it flew up to the red line.

Wasn't able to get to looking @ all your suggestions, had to deal w/ garage door issues & our 6 year old all day, but I did notice the reservoir coolant was, in essence, empty but the radiator was full. I'll update as I soon as I can get under the car. Have a good one & I appreciate all of the advice

 

mn- with 220 its due for the water pump and timing belt again, you dont get to do it at just 100- its every 100

I would pressure test the system to find the leak and not drive the car at all until diagnosed
At this point of the description you have given, I would suggest a call to the local auto recycler for an engine
Its hot too fast and too many times to not have caused damage inside
Sounds like the recent thread where water pump pretty much siezed and wasnt moving water,,thats bad

Does your oil smell burnt or the level is suddenly above full?

 

01tl4tl I know I need to replace timing belt & water pump...$$ But that said, a number of signs, of course not all, have not fit a for sure blown head gasket diagnosis. No milky-oil, any smell of any kind, no pressure, coolant bubbles or accelerations issues. I have not been able to get compression tests done yet & have not driven vehicle much, but I do know I need to get something done asap.

That said, I read a little bit about the Steel Seal product. It sounds too easy & too good to be true. Has anyone had success w/ it & is it really a permanent solution to a blown head gasket???

 

I think I found out what all of u probably would say about the "Steel Seal" to all my prayers w/ a head gasket. It would b just that, a prayer.

 

I'll throw in a Wing if it will make you feel better!!
(for the younger members the expression is `On a Wing and a Prayer`)
as in ww2 the B-17s came back so shot up,, they flew on a wing and a prayer~

The dramatic symptoms wont show up yet- its often 6 months between an overheat event and hg damage shows- or head is slightly warped
the damage is done but the results have yet to show themselves-
I mean other than overheat by driving around the block!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

might have a plugged radiator in addition to `it needed a water pump a while ago`
If the wp isnt pumping you may not get oil in the rad...all depends on where the gasket gets hurt

dont drive it- do compression test it- thats very smart

 

pull the thermostat and see if its ok, plugged- failed or working ok-

 

01tl4tl... Funny...I was planning on doing those exact two things (compression & pull thermostat) later today.

 

^ and STOP driving the car while the temp gauge goes that high. You may have already done permanent damage. Check/replace the thermostat, make sure coolant levels are full, maybe try doing a flush on the system

 

Did a coolant flush.... Thermostat has, so far, stayed consistently just under half-way point thru high & low speeds, city & highway in & out of traffic. I can't believe all the screwing around I have done w/ this thing & it looks like bad coolant or maybe a air bubble.

 

with the res bottle empty there was sure to be air- did you burp it per the book method?
Ever find the leak that caused fluid to pour out?
new coolant can help sometimes, my bike runs cooler with new fluid
Note that acura gives 7 years on first run of coolant then 5 years after that
after 5 years the coolant additives go bad and turn acidic in an aluminum home (good ol additive wearout) reallly reallly bad news

Everyone needs a dream- we will let this one of no engine damage be yours!

 

I had a dream & although not as profound as the Mr. King, it was a dream of hope & so far so good. Amen, thanks again for all your wisdom!!

 

I have a question if i change my ignition switch on my own would that effect the programming of the key

 

No it won't require reprogramming the key. The immobilizer is what controls that and you're not replacing that.

 

Thanks