The last 2 days I spent doing the following to my Acura with 120K miles:

Replaced Belts: Timing belt, Compressor belt, P/S belt
Replaced Tensioner
Replaced Water Pump and radiator coolant
Replaced Engine Mounts: Front and Rt. Side
Adjusted Valves

The cost of the parts was about $420 not including a few tools I purchased. I figure that dealer prices would have run me close to $2000.

Fortunately I noticed that the engine mounts were bad before I replaced my timing belt, saved me an extra hour or so by doing them at the same time.

After inspecting the old timing belt, I could have gone another 50K miles but I wanted to get it done and out of the way.

Adjusting the valves was essentially a waste of time since I only needed to adjust several of the intakes but they were still within spec.

Both the side and front engine mounts were leaking. I took pictures and plan on posting some threads.

I recommend that anyone looking for step by step instructions that you purchase the service manual. Besides step by step instructions it contains diagrams along with the tighting torques of the bolts.

Now that my Acura is back to gether it runs like a fine tuned sewing machine, very smooth.

 

I recently replaced my front and right side engine mounts and have some pictures which illustrate the new mounts compared to the old mounts. The old mounts have 120K miles on them.

The side mount was leaking and you can see the brown goop underneath the mount. I cleaned up the mess so that I can tell when the new mount starts to leak. The picture shows the old mount next to the new mount, notice the tear in the old mount were the brown fluid is coming out.
http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/492/img0013gp6.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/7701/img0014qi4.jpg
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/1603/img0028jr4.jpg

I noticed that the front mount was going by putting the car in drive (with the brake on) and reving the engine. The engine had over 1" of travel. After removing the front mount I noticed that it was leaking. The picture shows the old mount next to the new mount, notice how the new mount sits up higher.
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/8051/img0031yr1.jpg
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/9954/img0032ft7.jpg



These pictures were taken when I was doing my timing chain/water pump/tensioner replacement, that is why the timing chain cover is off.

 

How long did that take,
What was the total you spent in parts.

 

At 120K miles I decided to replace my belts, water pump, and tensioner.

The first step is to gather all the parts, knowledge and tools beforehand.
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/6240/img0001ys0.jpg

I suggest measuring the P/S pump belt adjustment bolt (as a reference) so that you don't overtighten the new belt and destroy the pump bearing.
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/3527/img0002ke0.jpg

The most difficult hurdle was to get the crank bolt loose. I used the "special tool" to hold the pulley and a 6' cheeter bar helped.
http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/7117/img0010re4.jpg
http://img458.imageshack.us/img458/8687/img0011ur0.jpg

Here is a picture with the P/S belt off and the old timing belt. The old timing belt had at least another 50K of service left to it.
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/5989/img0015dq4.jpg

I recommend covering the dip stick hole to keep out the dirt and antifreeze.
http://img157.imageshack.us/img157/8876/img0026gh6.jpg

Here are some pics of the water pump removed and the belts off.
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/6199/img0022al6.jpg
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/926/img0023xi2.jpg

Here are some pics of the new belts installed and completed job.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8641/img0028lq7.jpg
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/5311/img0040lg0.jpg

Double check that all the connectors and bolts are fastened and if you don't have any parts left over then have a beer and call it a day.

 

I spent the last two days (1/2 day each) replacing my belts, water pump, tensioner, antifreeze, adjusted valves besides the engine mounts.

I suspect if I did the engine mounts alone it would have taken 3-4 hours. If I had a ratching type of wrench it would have made things easier.

The parts cost me $170 from Carquest and were original Honda parts.

 

Thats a pain in the arse job just due to the location and space.

 

Southern
Good job taking an some real pain in the butt jobs, most of us would take it to the shop.

As technical as these cars are- I say adjusting the valves was a GOOD use of time, there is within spec- and there is perfect!
Every little bit helps when it comes to performance or mileage!
A 200+++ hp sewing machine......... yes!

 

I spent over 1/2 day on Saturday & Sunday. I don't like rushing jobs like this nor do I like trying to do it all in one day.

The parts cost me around $420 not including some extra tools I needed.

 

My hands have battle scars to prove this.

 

Just to clarify the $420 included the engine mounts which were $170. I noticed that my separate threads were combined into one thread.

 

Great information.
Southern, do you have to remove the dipstick tube to perform the work and how did you remove it? did you have to loosen the power steering reservoir as well to get some space?

 

You need to remove the dipstick tube to remove the lower timing belt cover. I used a big screwdriver and pried up on the lip near the bottom of the tube. Honda recommends replacing the O-ring at the bottom of the tube. I just removed mine and put it on in the other direction.

The power steering reservoir justs lifts up (similar to the engine coolant reservoir). I recommend it and also remove the wiring harness (which goes across the power steering hose) from the brackets to save a few scrapes on your hands.

 

Below are the pictures I took when I adjusted the valves. It is pretty much straight forward, keep taking off stuff until you get to the valves. I left the right timing belt cover off so that could tell which cylinder I was on to adjust the appropriate valve. As I mentioned before, I only needed to adjust several of the intakes by a slight amount.

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/9171/img0035un3.jpg
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/944/img0036zq4.jpg
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/6841/img0037ya6.jpg
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/7051/img0038bx5.jpg
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/8043/img0039hy1.jpg

 

Very Nice DIY...
Now i wish i can so this, so i can save some money.

 

How hard would you say this good is from 1 -10?
I have done header,intake,exhaust,brake,rotors, etc.., but never done complete
Maintenance tune up every.

 

With a 1 being an oil change and a 10 being an engine overhaul, I would put this at a 5.

Most of the work is figuring out how to get at the bolts, I found it easier to get at what you can from underneath the wheel well since there is less hoses & wiring harness in the way.

Knowledge also plays a big roll since you need to understand the importance of not moving the timing gears when putting on the new belt and properly tensioning the P/S belt. The ability to properly tighten the various bolts is also very important and good tools is a must.

 

Thank for your Help Man..

 

I forgot to mention for the dipstick tube there is one bolt you need to remove near the top of the tube. The bolt attaches the welded tab of the tube to the side of the engine near the timing belt cover.

 

I think mine are still scared from the 4 times i had to remove and reinstall during my swap trying to figure out issues.

Agree. Its not that its hard. Half the battle is figuring out how to get to it. Removing the little bolts to the cover is probably harder than any of it (especially the rear upper 2 bolts, they can be a pain and best removed from in the wheel well)

Good Tools are Of the Utmost importance!!!!

 

Is it necessary to replace the tensioner pulley along with the tensioner?

 

In my case the bearings were fine so I didn't replace the pulley.

According to the service manual, they don't mention replacing the tensioner, however the dealer recommended this when I was pricing parts.

I figure that if the tensioner fails so does the engine, if a pulley fails it will just make noise.

 

Was part #25 the o-ring you were talking about?

 

Yes

 

thanks for the quick reply. I am thinking about doing the same thing. I have 101k on mine now and just did the good ol' sea-foam, oil changes and plugs a couple months back. The car idles smooth but there is decent vibration and the belts sound kinda loud (not squeaking, just noisey). I figured I would do this now while i have the time.

Totally off-topic to this conversation, but are you still on your original cats?

 

Thanks. I'm gonna pick up that O-Ring while I'm at it too.

 

I would check your engine mounts if you have a vibration problem. Also verify that the various belt tensioners are tensioning the belts properly before you take them off.

Yes, I am on my original cats. I never had a vehicle that I had to replace cats including my previous 1988 Honda Accord with 180K miles and my current 92 Chevy Astro with 183K miles.

 

Cheap insurance.

 

Ive had the dipstick tube in and out 5 or so times. I dont think its necessary to replace the O-Ring

Im still on my original cat. 221k or so on it now

 

I noticed that mine was worn on one side and when I originally put it back in it went in too easy, so I reversed the o-ring and it "snapped" into place.

 

thanks for the replies guys! I am going to be ordering all this once i find a decently priced place online to do so. -hint-hint-

 

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...catdisplay.jsp

 

Thanks for the link...as i was waiting for someone to reply i found www.acuraoemparts.com and there price was $30 cheaper for all parts, handling charge was $2 cheaper and they gave me a shipping quote (26.91). The one above said shipping will be calculated after everything is boxed. I don't like that at all.

I plan on doing a little more homework and then placing the order for this. I might even swing by a local dealer to see if they will price match the parts. With tax (from buying local) it will be $10 more after you wash out the shipping/handling, but if anything is wrong/defective it would be easier to deal with.

 

Is it necessary to adjust the valves?

 

Not unless there noisy.

 

I tried them at first while doing my swap and they had to order parts in and weren't fast at all. Thats why i link the other site. They were much faster and seemed to have every thing, and i mean every thing in stock. If i ordered monday i had it wed by noon at the latest

I may have tried seeing if the dealer would match if i had one that was closer than a hr 30 min drive

 

I figured out how to show pics instead of links.

I recently replaced my front and right side engine mounts and have some pictures which illustrate the new mounts compared to the old mounts. The old mounts have 120K miles on them.

The side mount was leaking and you can see the brown goop underneath the mount. I cleaned up the mess so that I can tell when the new mount starts to leak. The picture shows the old mount next to the new mount, notice the tear in the old mount were the brown fluid is coming out.



I noticed that the front mount was going by putting the car in drive (with the brake on) and reving the engine. The engine had over 1" of travel. After removing the front mount I noticed that it was leaking. The picture shows the old mount next to the new mount, notice how the new mount sits up higher.





These pictures were taken when I was doing my timing chain/water pump/tensioner replacement, that is why the timing chain cover is off.

 

At 120K miles I decided to replace my belts, water pump, and tensioner.

The first step is to gather all the parts, knowledge and tools beforehand.


I suggest measuring the P/S pump belt adjustment bolt (as a reference) so that you don't overtighten the new belt and destroy the pump bearing.


The most difficult hurdle was to get the crank bolt loose. I used the "special tool" to hold the pulley and a 6' cheeter bar helped.



Here is a picture with the P/S belt off and the old timing belt. The old timing belt had at least another 50K of service left to it.


I recommend covering the dip stick hole to keep out the dirt and antifreeze.


Here are some pics of the water pump removed and the belts off.



Here are some pics of the new belts installed and completed job.



Double check that all the connectors and bolts are fastened and if you don't have any parts left over then have a beer and call it a day.

 

Below are the pictures I took when I adjusted the valves. It is pretty much straight forward, keep taking off stuff until you get to the valves. I left the right timing belt cover off so that could tell which cylinder I was on to adjust the appropriate valve. As I mentioned before, I only needed to adjust several of the intakes by a slight amount.

 

I have air compressor an good impact gun at home. My question is should i loose crank bolt using impact gun or this should be done by hand?
Above you wrote " I used the "special tool" to hold the pulley " What tool did you use an are you saying the pulley just need stay in place?
Sorry sound very NOOB it's just try get better idea on Maintenance tune up.
Don't wanted buy all there part an back out.

 

I have a 60 gal air compressor and my impact gun wouldn't budge it. You will need to do this by hand unless you have a 1" air impact gun.

The special tool is the hex shaped device in the first pic next to the tensioner. I recommend this because you can use it to hold the pulley to tighten the crank bolt when you are putting things back together. Yes the pulley needs to be held in place to get the crank bolt loose.

I also recommend purchasing the service manual if you plan on tackling this job.