alright... So my car has done this to me for the second time now. When I go to turn on the car, the car starts off really shaky. The car then shuts off on me and all the lights on my dash board turn on. I turned it on again, popped open the hood, and check for any possible vacuum leaks and found none. I turn it off, and turn it back on and it turns off. I wait a while, and then my car doesn't even turn on at all. Then I get pissed off of course, try to turn it on while giving it gas for about maybe 15 to 30 seconds revving, once I stop giving it gas my car stabilizes and remains on without a problem. What could this be?

 

Is this a cold start or hot start ?
Have a look at the PGM-Fi Main relay, it may have bad soldering that needs to be redone.

 

Are your battery terminals corroded? Loose grounds? Check these first as poor grounding can cause all sorts of weird behavior. I've had lots of seemingly unrelated issues caused by grounding problems. The dash lights coming on is a possible indication of that.

 

I dont know what a pgm is :/ where is it located? and it was a cold start, but south florida has had colder days recently and my car has started up fine. Its as if the engine was on but not all the way. It was odd. As for my battery termnals, i took some corrosion off not that long ago. It never made a clicking noise or anything like when the battery is bad or has interference.

 

you removed the battery cables at battery and cleaned everything- not just washed off the crud from outside of terminals?
ckd the inside of the cables for corrosion? bad at battery = bad inside the cable

south florida will eat metal!

that main relay is definitely a good suspect- ck the diy section for help

 

vac leaks- ck the front and rear motor mounts- both are vac boosted so they stiffen on acceleration, and are filled with a strange oil that drips out on failure

No CEL or codes present?

 

I have no check engine lights, as for codes or pending codes, im taking my car to a shop where a buddy of mine works to get a complimentary check up of a my car in general, theyll be plugging up my car to the obd scanner. Could it be my fuel pump? if so, is it in the rear seat or by the gas tank? My car has only done this twice within the last 3-5 months. It does this bizarre thing and then eventually just stops. When i gave it gas while parked, the second i let my foot off the gas, it died out.

 

I had the same issues with my tl on cold starts, I found out it was the Ect sensor *engine coolant temperture sensor*, and it can also be the IAT intake air temp sensor, those two sensors can cause incorrect fuel and ignition timing issues resulting in what you have experienced, after i replaced both of mine ive been trouble free, until number 3 ignition coil decided it wanted to die then i had to replace it too, weird thing is that coil on number 3 seems to do the most from what i hear from other tl owners.

 

ill know for sure this week when i have it inspected and scanned thoroughly. (Hopefully) Thanks for the input guys!

 

parts stores scan codes for FREE = we figure out what codes plus symptoms really mean for correct repair

never trust a `free inspection` at a shop = buddy works there or not- they are in the business of making money by working on cars!!

Its NOT the fuel PUMP- its likely the Fuel Pump RELAY as mentioned by several before FPR = relay that has a solder issue under the box, or bad relay itself
You can swap relays of the same color to test

reset ECU by clock fuse method after work on car

 

part stores like autozone, advance autoparts or napa? we dont have oreilys down south in miami florida

 

why don't you try calling whatever is near your home? that would get the direct answer!!
most places that sell parts (except not allowed by law in CA) will happily plug in an obdi2 code reader to the port just behind the shifter in your TL

they sell parts because people get check engine lights!
its the same for electrical system- charging and starter- load test are FREE
they sell you parts based on those results
Ca residents can get those system test done free- just not plugging in the obdi
its to keep smog shops in business

CODES are CLUES not a diagnosis in themselves
and they can mislead those not educated to the process of codes plus symptoms = real problem
example: On our acura it would be multi cyl misfire codes when you only need 1 coil and they sell you 6, and whatever they tell you when the egr clogs and throws its weird codes!.
Needs new intake manifold Sir!

the average person,,I hate to think what the general public goes thru getting repairs these days

 

oh hell no. lol thanks bro. ill get it checked with an obd scanner then and ill post the results and codes if anything on here. The automotive industry nowadays is full of caniving bastards just trying to take our money. I remember when it was the other way around, where they would just help out for a fair price. Oh wait, i wasnt born in those times. damn.