02 TL-S 6 Speed Swap
#41
K-Fed's Stunt Double
thought about it more, #1 is wrong. you can't just move the WHT wire from the solenoid to the WHT wire on C101 on the engine harness, because it's a loop.
but i think #2 is still correct, since that is OUTPUT and it will feed into the reverse circuit for the A/T.
regarding the IMRC, i have a much cleaner solution:
since pin 13 on the AT's C101 (BLU/ORN, male, left-engine harness side) is not the same as the MT's (LT BLU) just swap the BLU/ORN (pin #11) and LT BLU (#17) on C303.
really glad i read this thread properly yesterday.
- i'll think of a way to get the OUTPUT from the ECU to the reverse lockout solenoid.
but i think #2 is still correct, since that is OUTPUT and it will feed into the reverse circuit for the A/T.
regarding the IMRC, i have a much cleaner solution:
since pin 13 on the AT's C101 (BLU/ORN, male, left-engine harness side) is not the same as the MT's (LT BLU) just swap the BLU/ORN (pin #11) and LT BLU (#17) on C303.
- this should have the effect of making the BLU/ORN wire on C101 now correspond to the LT BLU wire (as it should) because we swapped them at C303 (which connects the left engine harness to the dashboard harness)
really glad i read this thread properly yesterday.
#42
K-Fed's Stunt Double
sorry, C303 is not available on the TL (only the CL).
for the IMRC, i think we should re-pin the A/T's ECU connector A, pin #13 (LT BLU) into the M/T engine harness ECU connector B, pin #15 (LT BLU), because as it stands the IMRC message is not being sent through the engine harness to the left engine harness.
for the reverse circuit, it's similar. in this case we route pin #9 on C101 from the left engine harness (WHT, CIRCUIT M34, aka reverse circuit for A/T) to pin #11 on the main engine harness (YEL, reverse backup light).
for the interlock, i think the best option is to tap the WHT wire from the ECU connector "E" and just run it back through the firewall grommet and into the reverse solenoid's WHT wire.
for the IMRC, i think we should re-pin the A/T's ECU connector A, pin #13 (LT BLU) into the M/T engine harness ECU connector B, pin #15 (LT BLU), because as it stands the IMRC message is not being sent through the engine harness to the left engine harness.
for the reverse circuit, it's similar. in this case we route pin #9 on C101 from the left engine harness (WHT, CIRCUIT M34, aka reverse circuit for A/T) to pin #11 on the main engine harness (YEL, reverse backup light).
for the interlock, i think the best option is to tap the WHT wire from the ECU connector "E" and just run it back through the firewall grommet and into the reverse solenoid's WHT wire.
Last edited by broly; 06-02-2023 at 08:25 AM. Reason: rerouting the wht/red for the IMRC on c101 won't work since both the TL/CL AT+MT use red/wht for in #2
#43
K-Fed's Stunt Double
for the interlock unit, i think i found a decent solution. since we are pinning our ILU into the ECU, and this ILU is totally different from the M/T (which technically does not have an interlock system), we can do this:
route pin #10 on C101 on the left-side engine harness (RED/BLK, CIRCUIT M22, aka neutral position) to pin #9 on the M/T engine harness (WHT, reverse lock solenoid).
no reverse ground or anything needed. if there is a cleaner way, say buying a relay that will connect these two positions regardless, then i would recommend that.
this should take care of everything except for the fuel tank pressure sensor signal and the clutch interlock signal, so your car won't start. but i do think this is some great re-wiring, since it doesn't cut any wires.
where i made a small error/discovered a premier solution for the latter, which i may eventually share if i ever go down this road.
any and all feedback is welcome. i bet the moochers on the av6 or honda-tech forums have their bib off: fuck off, you already ruined our access to OEM parts with your shitty "christmas light dash" swaps. losers. do it right or drive a gookmobile.
route pin #10 on C101 on the left-side engine harness (RED/BLK, CIRCUIT M22, aka neutral position) to pin #9 on the M/T engine harness (WHT, reverse lock solenoid).
- this means the reverse lock solenoid output will now route through the neutral circuit.
no reverse ground or anything needed. if there is a cleaner way, say buying a relay that will connect these two positions regardless, then i would recommend that.
this should take care of everything except for the fuel tank pressure sensor signal and the clutch interlock signal, so your car won't start. but i do think this is some great re-wiring, since it doesn't cut any wires.
where i made a small error/discovered a premier solution for the latter, which i may eventually share if i ever go down this road.
any and all feedback is welcome. i bet the moochers on the av6 or honda-tech forums have their bib off: fuck off, you already ruined our access to OEM parts with your shitty "christmas light dash" swaps. losers. do it right or drive a gookmobile.
#44
@Blu240z , I have access to alldata and made a wiring cross reference for running 6spd trans on AEM EMS using an AT harness.
PM me with what specifically are you seeking and I can help you out.
PM me with what specifically are you seeking and I can help you out.
Hi @619rcr Do you remember how you got your reverse lights working in your 6thgen when you did the swap? I followed the google sheets wiring diagram but when i put the shifter in reverse, the P illuminates on the dash instead of R and my reverse lights dont work.
Thanks!
#45
Burning Brakes
Hi @619rcr Do you remember how you got your reverse lights working in your 6thgen when you did the swap? I followed the google sheets wiring diagram but when i put the shifter in reverse, the P illuminates on the dash instead of R and my reverse lights dont work.
Thanks!
Thanks!
GL
Last edited by 619rcr; 07-27-2023 at 03:04 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by 619rcr:
Taseen Syed (07-27-2023),
Thefireball (07-28-2023)
#46
The 01 accord that I did the jswap on was a manual transmission 4cyl. Although, many years ago I did an AT to MT swap on a 99 accord 4cyl. IIRC basically you have to find the wire that connects to the shifter by the transmission case for the rev lights. Not sure if it's the same colors on the 2G, but below is the note I made on the accord ext lighting diagram.
GL
GL
#47
K-Fed's Stunt Double
Thanks broly haven’t been on here in a while, got the car working still need to address the things you stated in your post gonna check it out this weekend. Tach isn’t working and yes I used the 6mt engine harness only do you know what pin I need to connect to make the tach work, thanks
i'd check your mainshaft speed sensor, it's above the output shaft speed sensor. that probably has something to do with your speedo. you should be getting a CEL code if your tach is truly borked. otherwise it may just be your gauges, but i'd look at the VSS pin on your "E" plug and see if it's giving the right output.'
you can tap into it from the cruise control plug too. look in the FSM for the blu/wht wire.
it's easy to crack or break the sensors if you try to remove the casing without removing the sensors (first hand experience, ha).
for me, i have a code because the wire harness i had was cut at the transmission side, so no speedo. but i have full ABS and only T0720.
but i digress, my freshie is on its way and then i may, just may, do a show and tell.
- but i know zeta is lurking and waiting with a big tub of popcorn, and that makes me not want to do it. sorry zeta
eat my mfin shorts. the "redneck swap" will finally get its long-overdue christening.
edit: crustyneon, aka "duluth" (that's his name) has the worst pose i've seen for a picture like this. i originally thought he was wearing cargo shorts, but really pajama pants are equally bad.
it's forever engrained in my mind.
Last edited by broly; 08-17-2023 at 08:54 PM. Reason: crustyneon's pose pisses me off
#48
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Now I completely understand from your post below, IT'S a Canadian thing!
#49
Burning Brakes
Sorry, don't get on Azine very often anymore having mostly Honda builds now. Anyways, yes at one point I had full functionality with the cls6 engine harness, accord chassis harness, accord dash and cls6 ecu in the 6th gen accord chassis. My situation was a bit unique being a 4cyl chassis, some of the wiring locations were flipped vs the 6cyl chassis. Long story short I had to extend the ABS wiring about 2 feet to make it reach.
Last edited by 619rcr; 08-20-2023 at 09:15 PM.
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