00 TL, misfire when warm, possible overheat followed by warm crank/ no start

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Old 07-06-2021, 12:45 AM
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00 TL, misfire when warm, possible overheat followed by warm crank/ no start

I have been experiencing a few warm crank/no start but today it actually started misfiring and threw codes while driving . I have previously replaced CTS, main relay and fuel pump. My kids drive this so sometimes the description can ne a bit limited.
While my son was driving today it threw a check engine light and started misfiring(car started shaking and running rough was the description) so he parked it and shut it off. I arrived about 30 minutes later and the car cranked but wouldn't start but was able to read the codes. I did notice the temp gauge was about 3/4 way up when I first cranked when I initially arrived. Maybe a failing thermostat causing overheat condition ?

P1486-CTS or ETS
P1399-misfire
P1259-VTEC

After letting the car sit for a few hours it stared right up and I was able to drive it home and to possibly address the P1486 I replaced the thermostat. While replacing it I saw the temp sensor on the thermostat housing that I haven't noticed previously. Can someone confirm this is the temp sensor for the cooling fans ? I need to pick up some coolant in the morning and fill the radiator with a self bleeding funnel and see how it goes.
Any suggestions on what might be causing this beyond the CTS, thermostat and fuel pump/relay ?
I understand the CTS/temperature issue, should I also replace the fan switch at the thermostat housing ?
The misfire is a bit of a question since it has only set this code once and I haven't experienced it to check the coils/plugs. The vtec code(P1259) is a bit of a mystery.
One additional thing is this car is overdue for timing belt/water pump but I don't thing either is the cause the no start and today's codes.
Old 07-06-2021, 11:59 AM
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Crap, replaced the thermostat and now I have a drip at the thermostat housing. I assume a aftermarket thermostat works on these ?
Old 07-06-2021, 06:04 PM
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Hmmm, after replacing the faulty thermostat seal with the original to address the leak at the housing and cooling fan switch I spent quite a bit of time burping the system. I noticed the condenser fan never turned on while the right side cycled multiple times. During the test drive I saw the temp gauge climb to about 3/4 to hot which I know isn't normal. This was especially noticable when the car was idling with the AC on. When I came home I switched the fan relays but no change. I checked voltage on the condenser fan and it had 12v , I plugged it into the driver side fan and it blows like the wind.
I'm assuming this lead to an overheated condition causing some chain reaction yesterday.
The lack of a proper cookinyg might explain some warm crank/ no start conditions if it leads to overtemp at the cts possibly given that the car ALWAYS starts after cooling down.
Off to the junkyard tomorrow to source a fan and fingers crossed this is the cause of my problems.
Old 07-07-2021, 11:07 PM
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i know what you mean about the tstat seal. for some reason no one seems to provide the correct seal with the tstat as a set. i reused mine with over 200k until i could mail order

Last edited by 619rcr; 07-07-2021 at 11:12 PM.
Old 07-19-2021, 06:39 PM
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I had another episode today with a p1259 and p1399, clearly misfiring. Should I just replace the vtec solenoid and oil pressure sensor as well as take a close look at the coils ? This has happened twice on warm days on the freeway while my son has been driving. By the time I arrived the car seems to start just fine. Nit really sure about how vtec works but the solenoid and oil pressure sensor appear easy enough to replace and can throw a few known good could in and keep watching.
any advice or direction would be appreciated.
Old 07-19-2021, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by DOH
I had another episode today with a p1259 and p1399, clearly misfiring. Should I just replace the vtec solenoid and oil pressure sensor as well as take a close look at the coils ? This has happened twice on warm days on the freeway while my son has been driving. By the time I arrived the car seems to start just fine. Nit really sure about how vtec works but the solenoid and oil pressure sensor appear easy enough to replace and can throw a few known good could in and keep watching.
any advice or direction would be appreciated.
oil pressure locks the rocker arms to engage the high cam lobes. oil level and oil pressure should be checked before you just go shot gunning parts.
I had vtec go out on an pretty heavily modded H22, during dyno tuning. lost about 100hp to the wheels. ended up being weak pump. so tear down and replacement pump was the fix.
Old 07-19-2021, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 619rcr
oil pressure locks the rocker arms to engage the high cam lobes. oil level and oil pressure should be checked before you just go shot gunning parts.
I had vtec go out on an pretty heavily modded H22, during dyno tuning. lost about 100hp to the wheels. ended up being weak pump. so tear down and replacement pump was the fix.
Oil level is normal and I have not checked oil pressure, I do not have a oil pressure gauge. I did check freeze frame and p1259 triggered at 50 mph and 5400 RPM. This seems super high since according to my son it was just cruising on the highway, probably only at 2000rpm. Maybe I don't know how to interpret the freeze data.
​​​​​​

Old 07-20-2021, 09:40 AM
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Another concern is the ect reading of 217. My son stated that the temp gauge was right in the middle and I did replace the condenser fan last week and have conformed both fans are working.
Old 07-21-2021, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by DOH
Oil level is normal and I have not checked oil pressure, I do not have a oil pressure gauge. I did check freeze frame and p1259 triggered at 50 mph and 5400 RPM. This seems super high since according to my son it was just cruising on the highway, probably only at 2000rpm. Maybe I don't know how to interpret the freeze data.
​​​​​​
the fan switch normally kicks on around 210. my s/c cls runs cooler than that going 75 on the fwy. maybe your radiator is plugged or the condensor is mashed too much. the rpm does seem really high too if thats when it happened. is the trans slipping and your son doesn't notice?
ive had a vss go out again on h22 and no vtec. possibly trace the speed signal wire from ecu to trans side. weird.

there's a clue to the vtec issue in another tread
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/error-code-p1259-639820/

Last edited by 619rcr; 07-21-2021 at 10:58 PM.
Old 07-24-2021, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 619rcr
the fan switch normally kicks on around 210. my s/c cls runs cooler than that going 75 on the fwy. maybe your radiator is plugged or the condensor is mashed too much. the rpm does seem really high too if thats when it happened. is the trans slipping and your son doesn't notice?
ive had a vss go out again on h22 and no vtec. possibly trace the speed signal wire from ecu to trans side. weird.

there's a clue to the vtec issue in another tread
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-p...-p1259-639820/
I replaced the vtec oil sensor, solenoid(good used) and gasket/screen and have driven it for a few days without problems. The temp gauge is staying right in the middle and rpm and shift is normal. Only thing I can thing is my kid might have hit the gear shift from d5 to manual shift possibly and shifted back ? I asked him about the high rev and he said he didn't notice anything.
I am driving it all week so I'll monitor thing closely.
Old 07-26-2021, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DOH
Only thing I can thing is my kid might have hit the gear shift from d5 to manual shift possibly and shifted back ? I asked him about the high rev and he said he didn't notice anything.
I am driving it all week so I'll monitor thing closely.
Could have been a case of heavy foot. easy to hit 5400 with that vtec when you're passing on freeway
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