MyGirls-RL

Hello Im new on here a friend of mine just got a 2006 Acura RL and I did her last install so she wants me to do this one to. I have went to school for mobile electronic installation and enclosure building. But when I went to school there was no such thing as Nav in cars then so I have no training with all of these issues that Im running into and was hoping for some solid advice here online and I have searched several forums but still have many questions. I have got wiring diagrams for car. I highlighted what I believe to b the correct wire locations and labeled them so hopefully the next person wont have to ask they will have these images to go by. I just dont want to have any question in my mind on what Im doing as this is not my vehicle.

1st of all if I understand right Onstar, Hands Free Link, Active Noise Control Unit and Nav is all tied into the head unit?

MyGirls-RL

2nd the location is in the trunk on passenger side? I dont have car here to check.

MyGirls-RL

And 3rd I should connect after the amp and not before it? Im gonna be using a Audison Bit Ten signal processor that has 4 channels in and 5 out. And r these the correct wires to connect to? The 4 channels?

MyGirls-RL

Sorry Ill have to finish this up later i have to go run errands. I appreciate any help I can get. Thanks

MyGirls-RL

Dam thanks for all your help and input.

oo7spy

Passenger side. Yes.

After the amp. Yes.

I don't know what On Star has to do with anything. You need to take the signals out of the amp (I don't have specific wires now, but I've posted them in other threads in this sub-forum recently). Plug those into your DSP, plug the DSP signals into your amp, and run those signals to the speakers. Once you intercept the signals out of the amp, all the rest is up to you.

MyGirls-RL

Hey I thank u for taking time out to help. Really do appreciate it I guess Ill tear into it tomorrow. Thanks again.

MyGirls-RL

What about the Active Noise Control Unit?

oo7spy

Unplug it and don't look back. It is the only other harness on the Bose amp that isn't in your diagram.

MyGirls-RL

Hey THANK U oo7spy! I saw on here somewhere that u also upgraded system I wanted to know if u ran into any crazy rattles sounds like its coming from roof maybe rear decklid? I did like u said and tapped it after Bose to Audison Bit Ten from there its running into a Soundstream Rubicon 604 for highs and mids and a Orion 2500D on bass. The Soundstream is capable of 600 watts but Im running it at half power (4 x 80 watts @ 4ohms) and its old school Soundstream it sounds good. And the Orion can put out 2500 watts but Im running that at (1000 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms) Im running them @ lower powers cause I read that stock alternator is only putting out 130 amps I think. I have run a isolator Pac200 and a second battery and a 10 Farad Capacitor but a high output alternator is in future plans. I have strongly suggested it to owner of car its my girlfriends friend well friend of mine to but vehicle is not mine. On bass theres a single old school Rockford Fosgate HX2 Power 15" in a double L ported enclosure with 4 MB Quart tweeters and 2 6.5" MB Quarts and 2 5.25" Orions. I ran 0 gauge all the way back and the system hits but theres just a crazy rattle from I think roof area any suggestions?

MyGirls-RL

I had also suggested if she doesnt upgrade alternator that she at least needs a Harrison Labs flux cap http://www.hlabs.com/products/fluxpower/ does anyone in here have experience with these? Ive ran a Jacobs Accuvolt in past and loved it these are supposed to b similar but better as they claim u can charge a 1000 amp battery bank with only a 50 amp alternator!

oo7spy

Here's what my system looked like.


I did not have any "crazy" rattles. I did use ~8 sq ft of Dynamat on the trunk and what I could access of the rear deck. That helped tremendously to reduce rattles in those areas. There was some rattling from the c-pillars and roof, but nothing unexpected from two 12" subs. Perhaps something (screw, etc.) fell into the rear deck or one of the speakers isn't completely screwed down?

As far as a capacitor goes, you shouldn't need one unless you are competing or at the limit of your alternator current. I would guess that the vast majority of systems don't really need one, but they will certainly sell you one regardless.

MyGirls-RL

Dam that looks really GOOD! Xtremely clean! Im very impressed and she (the woman who owns the car can be very picky and she has tendency to trip on everything!) so if headlights dimmed faded etc shed b coming right back to me complaining so thats y the second battery and capacitor. Much of this system was from her Volvo she owned prior and when that same Orion amp and even lesser powered amp was in Volvo (And Volvo alternator put out 160 amp and RL puts out 130 amp) even with second battery headlights dimmed. Thats y the capacitor and I know that 10 farad wasnt necessary but I just didnt want to hear it from her. So ok Dynamat and thanks again cause u have been a great help. Ive been checking out the site more its very helpful Ive fixed a few other problems she had so thank u!

oo7spy

I thought I was going to need a capacitor too before I installed that system. When it hit in Legend #1, the headlights dimmed a lot. However, I never experienced a voltage dip in the RL even after I added a more powerful amp. YMMV, but I have believe for now the capacitor will be unnecessary. In any case, you certainly shouldn't need a second battery. If I were to do anything, it would just be up the alternator capability.

In any case, please post a pic when you are done with the work. It sounds like a legit system.