Got this from the OEM Acura Parts Facebook page and thought it may be useful for us RL owners.

 

Interesting. Turning the ignition on never occured to me.

 

yep, the shorting the wires deal is why I thought it was valuable... these guys that say a battery reset doesn't work might still have a charge in the system.

 

Didnt think of that either. Thanks Heavy

 

I have heard of the shorting idea before, and it makes complete sense. Many electronics have a jumper that can be moved and used to reset everything. However, turning the car "on" is an interesting idea. I can't quit wrap my head around the idea, but I also don't try to understand the weird shit that electronics do. The number one step in debugging is to turn it off and then back on.

Or if you are really clueless, making sure it's plugged in.

 

I joined this forum to thank you. I had endless battery problems with my 2012 Acura TL. Changed batteries 3 times in 3 years. Low voltage alerts, sluggish starts in the mornings, random dead battery which could occur any time. I tried your fix (and was skeptical) and immediately all my problems went away. No more voltage alert. No more sluggish starts.

Thank you so much. Something so simple fixed all my issues.

 

Fascinating. But I wonder how that "Remove the key" stuff is to be applied to keyless systems like ours. Just ignore that part?

 

RL's key cover can be removed by inserting physical key from bottom of the knob and then regular ignition switch is visible once you remove the plastic cover.

 

Thanks. I know that, but that alone would have no electrical effect at all; it's just a piece of plastic trim.

 

Turn the ignition switch with physical key after removing plastic cover. Because the switch will not turn if the plastic piece is present without power i think.

 

Hey,

BIG thank you to HEAVY_RL…

This was my journey...

So, I went from incandescent turn signals and reverse lamps to LEDs. The reverse went without a hitch. The ORIGINAL LED turn signals experienced the common “hyperflashing” issue due to the low wattage pull. I don’t have a flasher relay for this model, all is built in to the electrical system, so that was a bust.

So, I find that I can install 21w LEDs and this would fix the issue. Great idea but no so good. I installed them one evening and it went fine. No hyperflashing, just the normal speed as usual. All is good and I come out later that evening to a nightmare…

All was good when I first came out and checked them again without turning on the headlamps. They flashed fine… Then I turned on the headlamps and all went to pot. Left turn signal went fine at first, then the right turn signal was also the four way flashers… Then all of a sudden the wipers came on and then a few moments later the window washer fluid came on and would not turn off…

Needless to say, I was just floored. Nothing else was installed but the new 21w LED turn signals. I knew it had to do with them, but I was not aware to the extent that this model was wired by the manufacturer. So long story short, I researched this issue on Google and this post came up…

I did what it said and left them jumped, after the 10 minutes, when I changed back to the original incandescent bulbs. It worked like a charm…

Now I believe that armed with this knowledge, I can re-install the 21w LEDs after I reset it again and it will read them as part of the system without any errors, but we’ll see and report back.

I appreciate the knowledge here, as I am a first-time owner of a 2012 Acura TL 3.5L with Advance package 6 speed transmission. You guys ROCK!