Nomgle

The rubber around the pulley is precisely what makes it a harmonic balancer, and not just a pulley.

Here's a good explainer - https://www.k1technologies.com/k1-bl...c-balancer-do/

They're to stop the vibrations from the crank being directly passed into the belt and in turn into the accessories... I've never owned a car without one, I'm surprised you found that the Odyssey didn't use one 🤔

Monkeybizness

Before I comment, I'll note that we are both going to reference sites built by for-profit companies who have a subjective interest in selling their product. With that, here's a good counter explainer:

https://www.nonstoptuning.co/blog/li...od-bad-depends

Now to respond to the actual comment.

None of the other vehicles with the j35 (accords, odysseys, etc) I looked at had one(split plastic/metal)...just the RL... It's the weight distribution that provides harmonic balance, not material composition.

Now when you talk about harmonic dampening, that thin rubber band isn't going to dampen anything that would threaten the j35 crank because with it's balancing, it really doesn't need dampening, as the powerband is well below any danger thresholds for internal damage to the crank. Also, and more importantly, the primary dampening agent between the pulleys and the largest source of rubber(EPDM) is the belt itself, which means that little rubber band they're calling a damper is insignificant in comparison, and is only there for show.

Remember, the belt can always give a little in the case of sudden shocks and/or seized pulleys. My power steering and a/c worked fine, after all, when my alternator pulley had seized.

The j35 is an internally balanced engine and most vehicles after around 2000 were internally balanced anyway. It's the old school carbureted V8 engines that were otherwise, like my old 68 Chevy with its 350, and the reason they needed a harmonic balancer was because they had a long, often cast steel crank that was often poorly balanced.

VTEC's are all internally balanced. A lightweight crank pulley(note I do not say underdrive), like the one I ordered will work just fine and won't distribute any more vibration through the billet aluminum than would be transferred through that hard plastic/steel.

Considering the fact that the crank, and the shafts for the other pulleys are on the same axial plane and directly attached to the same engine block, there is zero transfer of vibration through the pulleys that isn't already transmitted through the block, unless a pulley goes off axis through either tension or bearing failure.

Blazin Si

I gave the RL some much needed attention. New Toyo Extensa tires, replaced inner and outer tie rods, replaced front lower control arms, 4 wheel alignment, drained and filled the trans, rear diff and transfer case. New brake pads on the front and the rear got new pads and rotors.





Removing the ball joint from the bracket that holds the lower control arm to the knuckle was a bastard. My trusty Harbor Freight ball joint removal tool had never let me down, but this time it met its match.



It bent one of the forks and went flying across the garage floor. I had the heat the drivers side with a torch and pound it off with a pickle fork.





The drivetrain fluids were well past due. The transfer case fluid looked and smelled the worst. I had a shop change the fluids last. I'm thinking they skipped the transfer case.





I was hoping that replacing the tie rods and lower control arms would fix the looseness that I'm seeing the front wheels, but it's still there. With the front of the car jacked up, I can grab either wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and twist. Both wheels move a few degrees and I can hear a metal on metal clunk, which sounds like it's coming from the steering rack. I was able to get the car aligned like this, so I'm just going to keep driving it. The car is at 270k miles now. I'd like to have it last one or two more years, or until 300k miles. Then I'll look into getting something else.

rustywskier

I bought a 2008 RL from a good friend about six months ago and I love it! Yesterday it got an oil change and tire rotation. Upcoming projects will be a BT45-ACU Bluetooth module and probably a ProClip phone mount. I have seen several posts about the Bluetooth module. It looks like that is a good, and probably the only, option for the RL. But I am open to suggestions on both of those items.

marjenmiller

iTrader: (1)

I have the BT45-ACU...works great. I even connected and ran the microphone wire up to the driver's side sun visor so I have hands free phone/SIRI.

If you have the inclination, upgrade the door speakers...even just the front 2 doors will make a huge difference in sound. The woofers and tweeters are separate, not a coaxial. The rear speakers take a lot more work to replace the tweeters (they are in the rear deck, have to take the rear seat out) though the woofers are simple, but most of the sound is in the front when driving. The front tweeters are in the door along with the woofers.

I put in Polk audio speakers, but any decent type will do. I have a link somewhere on how to do it...

I also put in a backup camera (I have a "Base" not a "Tech" version). That was easy to do too if you don't have one.

marjenmiller

iTrader: (1)

I should clarify that I have the BT45-HON (Honda version, not Acura version). Check your Model Year/Trim to get the correct version. I bought mine through Crutchfield, so they can help you identify the correct BT45 you will need. Simple to install, hooks up in the trunk on the driver's side to one of the XM radio plugs

rustywskier

Thanks for all the advice! I bought my BT45-ACU through Crutchfield and used their product selector. So, I believe that it should be correct. Planning to do the installation tomorrow. Not sure if I'll install the microphone.

rustywskier

The BT45-ACU installation went very well, and I'm happy with the sound quality. I installed the microphone at the top of the driver's side A-Pillar, tucked the wire into the trim under the edge of the head liner, then down the C-Pillar and behind the rear seat to get it into the trunk. There is only about an inch or so of microphone wire showing between the C-Pillar trim and the rear seat back. I had to remove the rear seat cushion then loosen the rear seat back, but that was simple and my shop manual had good instructions for doing this. I've been told that I sound good on phone calls. The audio of phone calls is fair. People sound a little like they are muffled, and it's different from how they sound when I'm just using my phone or earbuds. Not sure why, but it's good enough for what I do and I'm not going to spend time trying to improve it. The stereo audio is very good. I'm not a picky audiophile, and mainly listen to podcasts anyway. Installation instructions were clear and the DIP switches came preset correctly from Crutchfield. Really happy with how this all went!

ChrisJackson

What control arms did you buy?

gk1085

What a PITA. Got wrong part from junkyard (my fault) and had to go grab an aftermarket. The OEM was disintegrating as we removed it. The aftermarket was from O'Reilly. I've read to never use an aftermarket motor mount on these vehicles but I was in a jam and didn't have the money for a dealership trip. Such an improvement but concerned about the longevity of the part.

gk1085

I've installed the same unit and it's been a great addition since the HFL is disconnected and I like streaming music as well. I've also replaced the door speakers with Focals and added my JL amp and sub. Sounds great.

gk1085

What's the part number for the upgrade?