I still have my 2006 RL, which, for the most part has been problem free and still runs like new.

I recently went in for my last minor service and the service advisor recommended I do the '4' service now, even though my MID didn't light up telling me to do it.

My car has 84k miles.

Should I go ahead and do it? Is there a recommended time interval in addition to the mileage interval, which, from what I've read here is typically @ 105k?

Also, I still have the original factory brakes. I swear I need new brakes as they're starting to squeal, but every time I ask them about it, they tell me I still have more than the minimum recommended thickness on the pads. Anyone else go almost 90k with the original pads?

 

Yes, 7 years. Belts age, so time is a factor. You'll save yourself money if you can go to a Honda dealer to have the work done. Make sure you change the water pump and tensioner, these are usually extra. Honda will charge you about $700 all in.

Pads squeal mainly because of lack of lubricant on the back of the pad. If you do mostly highway driving, pads and rotors can last a long time.

 

I asked the same question and I have a 2005 with 62000. Most Acura techs and Honda techs say to go by mileage instead of the 7 years. Even Tim from oemacuraparts told me the same thing. However, you could always check the belt by taking it apart just to be sure. So if you don't want to spend the money now, I'll say you could wait till next year

 

Thank you. I guess I'm in a dilemma now; I'm not sure what to do as I'm not inclined enough to check the belt myself.

Niello Acura wants to charge me $1,100 for the complete job, including the 'B' part. I've been going there ever since I purchased the car from them and would prefer to use them as they've always done a good job, but it is rather expensive.

Anyone else have any thoughts?

 

Wait on it. You have either just hit 7 years or are about to. While Honda recommends 105k/7yrs, that is a cover all cases suggestion. Some here have changed theirs at 120k and said the belt had plenty more life. Obviously, a timing belt isn't something you want to wait to fail before you replace it, but 99% of belts are going to be just fine at 7 years old. I would wait and prepare for the bill.

 

If you want a peace of mind then I'd suggest changing it since you're getting close to the 100k mark anyways

If you're not worried about anything happening then you could wait

 

Yeah, I think I'm going to wait until next year. I just found out that the brake job will be rather expensive as well and I need to get two new tires.

If my engine blows up in the interim, I guess I was wrong lol.

 

You have a better chance of totaling the car than the timing belt breaking at this point.

 

OP-just get the TB done in the next couple of yrs. it's not like we hear of people with snapping TB b/c they failed to replace them. this has been talked about over and over on the 3G TL side. there are people that have waited 9-10 yrs prior to changing the TB without issue. granted it's on borrowed time so to speak. some have waited to yr 8 and the TB looks to be in really good shape after replacement.

i understand rubber ages. unless the car is driven in extreme temps all the time, then you should be able to wait.

i have a low mileage TL (i am the original owner) with just over 57k miles on an 05. i dont' plan on getting the TB done until next year (basically the car will be 9 by then). i'll ask to get my original TB back just so i can look at it. i don't daily the car and it's garaged, so i'm not overly concerned about it. my dealer has already told me "you really need to get the TB service done even though you have less than 60k miles." i told them, i know and i'm working on it. it's unlikely your car will blow up in the near future unless it's been abused.

 

My RL had 101 000 Miles before I replaced the timing belt..i would have waited but I live in northern Canada with rediculous temperature changes

 

If the first TB change is at approx 105K does that mean the second change is around 210K or does the duration shorten as the engine gets more worn?

 

It should only depend on the integrity of the belt. I can't imagine an older engine wearing a belt faster. I would actually venture to bet the opposite.

 

I have a 2004 TL with 161k I wonder if it has been changed.

 

No idea but the TLs play here: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/

 

If the "brake job" is only pad replacement front and rear, do that one yourself....it's not a big deal. In fact there is a video out on You Tube that shows you how to do the front pads....excellent. And the shop manual you can download here has step-buy-step on how to do the rears.

 

My (non-dealer) mechanic strongly recommended that I not replace my timing belt until 105,000 miles, even as the car got older. I sold my 1998 RL in 2010 without ever changing the belt - no problems.

 

thats like saying you rode around for years with out insurance and never had a crash.

Its called preventive maintenance not do it or your car will explode

 

Seen a few lower mileage 91-93 integras towed in for t-belt snap around this year, so maybe 20 years is the time they get old?

 

The environment can play a part in a belt's life. Hot/cold changes, humidity, and extreme temps can affect the longevity. I'm sure 7 years is a cover all cases baseline.

 

So, dumb question how do you know when you have an issue with a timing belt? I'm at 103k. My local dealership quoted $945 for TB.

 

Check the belt for wear or cracks.

 

Well, I dropped my car off at the dealership this past Friday to do a ton if work.

Every time I go there I feel like I'm paying a premium to get work done, but they've always done a great job as far as I can tell, and my car runs perfectly other than the minor annoyances I've posted here.

Here's a summary of the estimate for those that are curious at what my dealership charges for comparison purposes:

Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tune up/Valve Adjustment: $1602
Front Motor Mount: $493
B16: $228
Curiously the side motor mount wasn't even shown on the ticket this time, even though they said they were going to replace that as well. I need to call them again.

One thing I wasn't sure of and I felt the service advisor was blowing hot air was that while the car wasn't due for the "tune up" part, he mentioned if I did it separately, it would cost almost $800 alone. I find that extremely hard to believe. In any case, I had it done now.

Got another MDX loaner again as well? That thing is great. Seats are more comfortable than my RL and it seems quieter as well. Drives smooth, way better gas mileage, even with me flogging it, although it was the FWD version (averaged 24 MPG with mixed driving and I drove it hard lol).

However, one small thing I noticed while driving up long freeway grades (4%), was that my RL seems to handle them better and could accelerate faster upon downshifts. Not sure if it was due the weight of the vehicles or what.

 

Oh, and believe me when I say this, I tried bartering the price as much I could. I even went so far to show them various price quotes from this forum. They countered and showed me their "set" maintenance prices in their computer and indicated it's what everyone else pays.

My whining and complaining got me nothing...

 

Funny, I just had my timing belt done too along with my front and side mounts. $1143.38 w/timing belt coupon and $663.51 for front mount and $190 for side mount(no labor charge) I don't normally go to Acura but Honda was only $200 less and doesn't include tensioner which mine were leaking badly. Your service advisor is right if you don't do the engine mounts at the same time since they have to jack up the engine anyways.prob saved you some $ there..valve doesn't need to be adjusted unless your engine light is on or ticking really bad..idk about the other service or tuneups but pretty on par with the dealer in Boston

 

Yeah, I was quoted about the same price for the timing belt/water pump service. That "extra" amount was for the rest of the 105k service.

They still have my car, said it would be ready on Monday, tomorrow. I don't mind as this brand new MDX is extremely nice.

Off topic, but I learned that the MDX they gave is the very bottom base model, no NAV, no other bells and whistles, but it still has a ton of nice stuff. The iphone Jack, back up camera, dual screens (although it's utterly pointless in the base model without nav) are all nice.

Another thing that bothers me is the stereo in the base model (which I researched isn't even their ELS system) sounds way better than the standard Bose in my RL. WAY better, although the center channel (which this lacks) does make a slight difference in directional sound. I can crank up the base/subwoofer and then max out the volume with ZERO distortion, no matter what the music type. Heavy rap bass, classic rock, pop, country, doesn't matter. The sound and clarity are both solid. The same can't be said of the Bose in my RL. It starts to breakdown if I were to crank those things up.

In any case, the new MDX is extremely nice. While I haven't driven the new RLX yet, at this point, I would be hard pressed to decide which I would purchase next if I were to get a new vehicle. I would probably lean towards the MDX at this point, just because it's so damn roomy compared to my RL. It's nice having all that space. And man, it's very smooth, quiet and comfortable.

 

The dealership called yesterday and said my tensioner was also leaking. Charged me just for the part, no labor. Man, talk about an expensive maintenance trip.

They charged me about $100 for the part. I have no idea if that was a good price.

With the money I spent, I kind of wish I just traded in the dang thing and got a brand new car. But at this point, I'm committed to driving this thing for a few more years at least.

The only thing left that I have to worry about now are the struts and god-forsaken tires. I'm stuck with three brand new Michelin Pilots and one almost bald one. What a waste of good tires and money when that bald one goes as I cannot find one Pilot anywhere.

 

Taxes and fees alone on a new car would be more than this once-every-8-years maintenance. Also, go get a new tire now. $200 extra now isn't worth totaling your car you just dropped $$$ on.

 

I can't find another Michelin Pilot Sport in the 17 inch size. I've searched everywhere for that tire, called everyone, no luck. That's why I'm screwed when that bald tire goes as it means four new tires and abandoning the three new ones I have now.

I have another unrelated question: How much would two new front struts cost, parts and labor?

 

Which Pilot Sport model do you have? Also, you have more than one option. You can buy two new tires, scrap the bald one, and keep the single new one as insurance or sell it. Or you could buy 4 new and sell the 3 good ones.

Each front strut assembly costs $342. You don't need a dealer to install a suspension (or a timing belt), so call around for quotes. I would guess $100/strut in labor at an independent shop.

51601-SJA-305 S/ABS ASSY., R. FR.

 

Thanks! That's about what the dealer quoted me.

The tires are the Michelin pilot sport as+. Great tires, but discontinued in the stock size. I had to buy two new ones about six months ago due to one sidewall blowout. This was preceded by another sidewall puncture a few months before that, so that's why I'm stuck with three relatively new tires and one original.

I regret not just buying four new tires of a different type when I had to but two, but I was being cheap. Paying for it now, though.

The tire size has been a huge consternation for me due to pitiful tire selection in that size and my recent posting about upsizing to the stock 18.

Also, just got my car back. Runs great, seems faster, but man, it really can't hold a candle to the brand new MDX I was driving in regards to comfort and smoothness. The larger grip on the steering wheel of the MDX was nice and feeling my RL after driving the MDX for five days felt disappointing and uninspiring lol. Oh well, at least this is paid for.

 

Get a wood steering wheel. You won't regret it.