k083

The car has 128k on it. I can't find any receipts for such work done by the previous owner. The MID maintenance minder isn't displaying any B codes, only A1 for oil change. Is there a way to know if the belt and pump's been done?

BTW, how much do dealers cost for A1?

rlerman

Give any Acura dealer your VIN # and they can tell you if it was done by Acura. If it was done privately, it will be more difficult (contact PO, maybe)

A1 for me is free, lifetime from my dealer, but should not run more than $30.

getakey

I believe they do more than just oil change in A1. I've never gotten any service done for less than $80.

rlerman

A1 includes oil change and tire rotation...not much more than that. Sorry, I should have been more specific, I don't pay for oil changes at the dealer, those are free. I get my tires rotated free from the place I bought my tires, which wasn't the dealer.

Dealers typically charge about $30 for an oil change, at least an Acura dealer near me that I don't use does.

stevesrl

I would absolutely change the timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, and tensioner, if determined it has not been changed. Even if the the water pump, tensioner, and idler pulley are fine when the belt is changed change them anyway. Reason is, they won't last another 105K miles (next T-Belt change) so do the work now when you are at these components anyway (changing the T-Belt). Parts are relatively inexpensive compared to the labor. Dealer will charge $1,300 or so. It's not that hard... part's run $250. Most difficult part is getting crankcase pulley bolt off. Buy the tool: Hexagon shaped end crankcase pulley bolt tool and a breaker bar.

Additionally, if the dealer comes back and says it was never changed by an Acura dealer one good indication is gouges, scrapes, scratches on the bolts that must be undone to to change the belt. A visual inspection of these items should show if they have been removed (especially the crank case pulley bolt). It is torqued extremely high and the I can't believe it would not show markings if it has ever been removed. Some belts look new even after 100K miles so don't rely 100% on the a belt inpection by removing the valve cover.

Chas2

^^^what he said! If you cannot find out whether it has been done, get it done, including the water pump, idler and tensioner, unless you really don't care about the car and its longevity.

drolds72

Get it done- risk/reward is heavy to the risk side with these interference engines. Its a straightforward job, and any independent shop should have no problem doing it much cheaper than the dealer. To add to an above comment, the crank bolt is the hardest part, but you should be able to find a garage that will loosen it on a lift, and make it tight enough to drive home safely if you can't get it out yourself.

Professor

With a 128K, it's probably the original water pump. On my Hondas, I do the timing belt at 90K and then timing belt and water pump at 180K. Also don't get fooled with their installed spark plugs. You can buy better ones and DYI for practically nothing.

Professor

Not to hijack the thread, but could these engines have been designed with timing chains instead of timing belts?

k083

It's showing A16 now. Something about AWD inspection. Is this going to be a major job?

Also, wouldn't the car have a B-4 maintenance minder if the timing belt service hasn't already been done? There are no records of this message on the nav screen under messages.

stevesrl

05-06 Service manual section 6-13 to 6-25, "Timing Belt Replacement Procedure".

Chas2

I think the answer is absolutely yes.

Timing belts are less expensive to make, but I think the real reason they started to become popular is that timing belts are lighter, and require less internal structural support and associated hardware, allowing a smaller more compact valve train design. Being lighter, there is less valve train inertia, and considering the complex SOHC VTEC design, I am sure that is a benefit. The belt does not require constant lubrication as a chain does, again less complexity and ease of design and manufacture. Theoretically a chain is noisier. But, I think all in all, a belt allows a smaller, lighter, potentially higher reving engine to be implemented at less cost than a chain design. That is my and I hope some of you further the discussion.

stevesrl

Also add in cost savings to use a belt. Acura knows the water pump has to be changed anyway so it really does not matter if it is a chain or belt regarding future service issues with a belt.

neuronbob

6 is rear diff fluid change. All codes are in the owner's manual, in this case page 358 of the 2006 manual.

Chas2

Absolutely. The belt configuration is cheaper to implement for all the reasons including less infrastructure to support the whole design. My two cents, not supported by any documentation I have access to, is I think Honda did it to achieve small and light mass production engines.

guss_90

My RL has 99,879 miles on it and still running great. But when you are over the 100K miles it's better to perform all maintenance to assure another 4 years of peace of mind. So last week I did my timing belt / change 6 spark plugs / Water Pum / Serpentine Belts / Fuel filter / Oil change / Put H&R Springs/ Front & rear suspension changed.

470hpGS400

iTrader: (1)

The rear(backside) of the timing belt will lose it's original markings on it once used as it rolls around the various pulleys so an inspection would be tough. My crank pulley has markings on it as I installed an underdrive pulley yet on the original timing belt (not yet ready).

I would recommend changing it out if the dealer cannot provide you with any info.