I just can't live with the heavy swirls all over my 2006 RL with Nighthawk Black Pearl paint so I purchased a Porter Cable 7424XP 6" variable speed orbital buffing machine and Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover. i should receive it in a couple of days. does anyone have any experience using this tool that would have some pointers that might help me. I tried numerous products to remove these swirls by hand and had no success.

 

There is a whole sub-forum dedicated to this stuff. Good luck. https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/

for pics.

 

the machine will get rid of swirls!

instead of relying on written word on how to use the PC7424xp, why not visit youtube and watch how to use it!!!

its pretty simple.

 

chemical guys youtube channel is great for explaining buffer use. or you can check the autogeek channel as well.

 

It's all about the choice of pad and compound cut. The very light cut polishing pads (typically these are "white") and Meguiar's 205 compound usually will take care of swirls pretty nicely. A lot of people also don't apply enough pressure with their polisher and "rush it" and don't spend enough time working a panel/area with the machine.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

I also got a PC to remove swirls on my NBP RL too. The RL's paint is rather soft, so I used a medium cutting pad, and polish for a first go around. Then finished it up with a light cutting pad with a finishing polish to get rid of the swirls the medium compound and pad caused. But for deep scratches, I would use a medium cutting pad with a heavy cutting polish.

 

Use an orange pad with a good cutting polish. Then follow with white pad and a finer polish. Then wax. I'd suggest claying the car first. I use menzerna products, but others will work too. It's back breaking work and takes sometime so have patience. 5- 8 hours to do it right.

 

I concur, clay bar the car first, then polish. Menzerna products are awesome too, that's what I used.
I basically used this polish:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzern...P649/16-oz-S1/
as the first step with this pad:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...P58/4-inch-S3/

and finished it up with this polish:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzern...P228/16-oz-S1/
with this pad:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Lake-Co...Pad-P61/65-S1/


only use this one if you have deep scratches:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzern...P124/16-oz-S2/


Remember to also purchase multiple pads as they'll get clogged with product. It took me about 32 hours to finish my whole car...as a one man job. A little long? Yes, but at least I know that I've done a good job. Just be prepared for a major time commitment.

 

Yep definitely clay first. If you can't "feel" the swirls/scratches in the paint surface with the edge of your fingernail, I've found a white pad with the 205 polish and the porter cable set at 4.5-5 speed and working the area over slowly is usually all you need. Always start with the least aggressive pad and compound, then check your results, then step up to more aggressive only if you have to. The first few times I did various cars I was surprised at the pressure you need to apply - the pads will get pretty warm in the center in fact!

 

I intend to use the orange pad with Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 as recommended by Autogeek on Utube.

 

My Porter Cable arrives tomorrow. Would the white foam pad be the proper pad to use to apply Wolfgang Finishing Glaze 3.0 and the Wolfgang Paint Sealant?

 

^you'll need something softer.
a black pad!

 

My kit comes with a black pad and an orange pad. What would the white foam pad be good for?

 

^what brand are they?
different brands have different meanings.

generally speaking
orange - mild cutting
white - finishing
black - very soft and used to apply sealant.

you want to start off with the LEAST aggressive pad when trying to get swirls out. if cannot remove, step up to a more aggressive pad.
with that being said; you DONT WANT an aggressive pad applying sealant. you'll scratch and mar up your paint!!

some dont even use the machine for applying sealant, as you can mess up your work. apply by hand!

 

Thanks very much. So far all I have is an orange and a black coming. So do I need to buy another pad for applying the Finishing glaze 3.0. If so I would go over to Home Depot to purchase. I will apply the sealant by hand only as per your expert information.

 

^its experimentation, sir.

if you find your orange pad is cutting to much!! go to a lower pad.
if you find your white pad not effective enough, step up to a more aggressive pad.

each car is different and will present different hurdles.

Dont overthink!!
if you watched the videos on youtube, you got it!!!!!

I will present you with one last piece of advice. have multiple of each pad.
the pad is a sponge and WILL get over saturated with product. having two or three of the same pad makes it easy to switch out and continue to work.
Be sure to wash all your pads when you're done

 

Thanks again. I will report back on the results with pics.

 

Go to Home Depot when you need to work on your house. Go to AutoZone when you need to work on your car.

 

hahahaha... brilliant.

 

Can you use the Porter Cable on the bumpers also which are plastic and not metal. And if so do you need to use a slower speed on the machine?

 

are the bumpers painted?

thats what the machine is for!!! paint!
if you watched the youtube videos, it will show you the process on how to: prep your pad, apply it to the car at a slow speed to spread product, and then bumping the speed up to actually correcting the paint defects.

please dont over think this!!
the hardest part is the physical part. after a hard day's work, Im super sore from squating, bending, moving, etc.

 

I did all of the prep as per the video by Mike Phillips that came with the machine and also watched all of the Utube videos. I did the trunk this morning which had the worst swirls and only needed 4 section passes to get amazing results. I did notice that the machine really vibrates when the speed setting is on 6 but that takes getting used to. I am hooked. Thanks again to everyone for your expert advice.

 

^see, you got it.

its very simple.

 

Congrats on keeping our car beautiful. Once you finish and see how hard you worked at this you will never go through an auto car wash again.

 

Here are pics after finishing step 1 and step 2. All I have left to do is apply the paint sealant.

 

beautiful!
hurry and seal the car!

you dont want it to be "unprotected" for too long!

 

I am keeping it in the garage until tonight when I will apply the sealant by hand so as not to mess up my work. Took a total of about 5 hours to get to this point. Should be OK until then. Not driving at all today.

 

Well at 65 years old somehow I found the energy and motivation to apply the sealant this afternoon so the project is complete. Wolfgang products are superb in every way.

 

Good job, sir!
I knew you had it in you!

 

Great! Now go get your grandson to take pictures for you!

 

Here is one final pic after the sealant was applied. I use a product named Wheel Wax which repels brake dust.

 

Another GREAT product for paint is from a company called 3d products / HD car care. Youtube "HD uno".
No hazing and phenominal results. I just used it on my foggy RL headlights and they look brand new.

They had a deal when I bought my stuff. I got a DA polisher, detailing products, carrying cas all for $99.

 

can you tell me the type of window tint you have %, etc.

 

I have LLumar 30%.

The film brand should always be the first choice. Even with a skilled professional installation, a low quality film will break down over a short period of time. For over 35 years, LLumar has been recognized as the premier film in the industry. LLumar's lifetime guarantee towers over all other brands supposed "lifetime" warranties. LLumar is the only proven film to keep its color. Bubbling, peeling, demetalizing, delaminating, fading, and color change are what LLumar promises you'll never see.

 

+1 on Llumar, great product.