Has anybody here changed the oil on their RL themselves? How much work it is? Getting an appointment from the dealer at the right time is getting difficult so exploring options.

 

The Acura/Honda V6 is really easy to do. You don't even have to lift the car.

If this is your first oil change, I recommend purchasing an oil filter wrench that fits the factory OEM oil filter. I always use K&N oil filters. They have a 1" nut on top of the filter for you to slip a socket. This makes it extremely easy to get the filter off. I have never had a problem with the K&N.

They cost more (about $10), but it's worth every cent to me. With conventional filters, you'll have to use the slip on filter wrench. If that doesn't work, you have to try a band clamp type wrench. If that doesn't work, you have to stick a screwdriver through it and use it to turn. Very messy.

Look online for the part number: http://www.knfilters.com/

For the RL, it's HP-1010. You can get them at Advance Auto Parts.


Also, make sure you get a new oil pan drain plug gasket. These are crush washer to help the drain plug seal against the oil pan. They are cheap, about $.25 apiece.


You can get to the filter from the front right/passenger side. It's visible from under the car. All you have to do is reach up for it.

The oil pan drain plug is 17mm, I believe. It's right next to the oil filter on the same side.

Check your owner's manual for the exact procedures.


It's not bad. I can do it in about 10 minutes, but again I've done hundreds of oil change so it's no big deal for me.

 

Thanks. I have changed oil on Accord 4-cyl few times but never on V6. Will give it shot and let know.

 

If you can do it on the Accord 4-cylinder (F/H block?), you will find that this is a complete piece of cake.

Just make sure you get an oilpan slim enough to slide under the car if you're lazy (like me) and don't want to lift it

 

Does anybody know what the Honda part No. is for the Oil Filter. Could not find it anywhere in the owners manual.

 

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I was just wondering if you guys have an opinion on using Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil??

 

I like Mobil 1 ... Itz a factory fill for many GM performance engines and was required in my last Benz. As a matter of fact, I've been using synthetic oil for over 25 years in my cars without a single problem.

 

I finally found that the OEM Honda Filter No. is 15000 PLM A02, same one as my O4 TL used. Forgot where I found this, but it is strange that I could not find the number from the owner's manual or from the Honda or Acura websites.

My maintenance reminder came on Friday with the message "Service Due Soon', so I changed the oil myself yesterday. It was no problem and I used the NAPA Gold filter, I think the number was 1386. Also used the NAPA 5-20 Oil which is supposedly the same as Valvoline. Took 4.5 quarts just like the owner's manual said.

I have found I can change the oil myself much faster than going to a dealer or even a quick change oil shop, the time you drive to the location and wait in line. Would probably have the dealer change except my closest Acura dealer is in Memphis, 120 miles away. I bought the car in Jackson, MS and the dealer gives free oil changes as long as you own the car, but 365 miles one way is a little far to drive for an oil change. Our closet Honda dealer is 65 miles away.

 

M1 is a very well rounded product, but you have to understand one oil in a particular viscosity may not work well in all applications requiring that viscosity...some oil perform better than others in certain applications.

Personally, even though it's a GrpIII, Amsoil XL 5w-20 has performed very well in 5w-20 applications....I'm waiting on a UOA on the new EOP derived Pennzoil Platinum as well....will report on that one once I learn more.

But nevertheless, M1 5w-20 isn't a bad product at all, but just understand that it may not work well for ALL 5w-20 apps.

Michael

 

I wouldn't use Napa motor oil, its a very SLIMED DOWN version of Valvoline. We had very poor results in terms of longeivity, even with their syn: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=002618#000000

Next time, I'd go to Walmart and buy a 5 quart jug of either Havoline or Pennzoil 5w-20 for less than $7.

However, stick with the Napa Gold oil filter...it is a Wix, which is an excellent filter.

A less expensive filter such as a Supertech or Purolator Premium Plus will do the job for those 3500-5000 mi. OCIs...just keep that in mind.

For the Honda V6 engines, I typically suggest running shorter drains of 3500-5000 miles during the first 10K as this engine breaks in very dirty, and a few short drains are crucial to "flush out" as much break-in debris as possible.

Michael

EDIT: The A02 Honda OE filter is an overpriced Fram...buy a Napa Gold or PureOne for the same amount of money.

 

i use the oil boy to extract the oil from my cars, i triied to find the link, i'll try to post it later

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...hlight=changer

 

Seems to me it is easier to remove the drain plug. I would worry about the pump not getting all the oil out.

 

Is there a way to reset the oil change warning on the MID? I have not looked at the manual to see if the consumer can do it, or if the dealer has to. I had to buy a reset tool for my M3 or spend $90 for each oil change.
I probably will contnue to use the dealer on the RL...$30 for an oil change is a decent deal.

 

I just reset mine this past Sunday after changing the oil. I think you roll the info screen until you get the to the oil life screen, then hold the reset for 10 seconds, then you have to answer 'yes' when it asks if you want to reset. This is in the owner's manual.

 

You seem to be very knowlegable about the oil and filters. I have always used Valvoline and the NAPA dealer told me the NAPA oil was the same as Valvoline. I have read where the NAPA Gold filter is one of the best.

Will follow your recommendation on oil brands next time I change.

 

I run RedLine 5W-30 in the winter time and 10W-30 in the summer time for street cars. I also use the K&N oil filter for reasons stated above.

I always change my oil at 3-months/3,000 miles, whichever comes first. I know this is a marketing gimmick, but I am a service technician so changing oil is not a big deal for me. I also know that sooner is better than later. For my race cars, I change the oil before and after every race. I believe that street driving is just as hard as racing, especially stop-and-go traffic.


It's not important what kind of oil you use. It is more important to use the correct viscosity and type of oil. Please review your Owner's Manual for the correct viscosity and oil type. Not all oils are the same. There are about a million different types of oil for different types of application.

Generally, you should look for a viscosity approved by the factory. I've had many years of experience with Honda engines so I kinda know what they like. But stick with the factory recommendations and you'll be okay.

Also, look for the American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol. This means it's been certified for use in gasoline motors.



Look for the API Service Symbol. It looks like a couple of concentric circles with letters and numbers on it. These letters and numbers provide valuable information as follows:



* The API SERVICE should be proceeded by a pair of letters. This pair starts either with an S or a C. You need to pick an oil that starts with an S because S is for gasoline engines. Avoid the C because it's meant for diesel engines.

* Proceeding the S will be another letter. This is the energy conserving attribute of the oil. The higher up the alphabet this letter is, the more energy conserving the oil. For example, SL is better than SJ, which is better than SH. Hondas generally recommends at least SH oils. I believe they suggest at least an SJ-rated oil for the RL. Please check your Owner's Manual.

* The next designation is the viscosity. The viscosity rating is shown under the SAE designation in the API Service Symbol in the form of xxW-yy. Viscosity is a measure of how thick, and thus how resistant to flow, at a given temperature. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. Thinner oils have a lower viscosity rating. The W (W for "Winter") designates that the oil has a dual-viscosity property. This means that it behaves like an xx oil at cold temperature, and like an yy oil at high temperature. This is the most important property of engine oil.

IMPORTANT: If you cannot identify the API symbols on the oil, don't buy it! Go find a different brand that carries the appropriate certification.

Here are some example Service Symbols for you to review. Can you spot the differences?



When selecting an engine oil, it is extremely important that you select the right viscosity. For street applications, use the factory recommended viscosity. Unless your engine operates in extreme cold, like persistent subzero temperature, or extreme hot, like racing applications, you should stay with the factory recommended viscosity. All Hondas made after 2001 use 5W-20. You can find your factory recommended viscosity rating in your Owner's Manual, in the factory service manual (if you have one), on the emissions sticker under the hood, or on the oil filler cap (if applicable).

My view on synthetic, semi-synthetic, tri-synthetic, etc. is that if you can afford it, go for it. But it's not as important as selecting the correct viscosity. If you change your oil regularly, then you'll be fine with either one. And make sure you don't use a high number when it's cold. For example, 20W-50 is probably too thick for the temperatures you'll see on the street.

Cheers!

 

Also, I buy the most expensive oil I can find, about $8 per quart. I own 5 vehicles, and sticking with my 3-month/3,000-miles rule, I do spend a fair amount of money on oil. But to me, it's worth it. I have owned about 25 vehicles in my life, and put well over half a million miles on them. I have never had a vehicle that has experienced internal engine problems as caused by improper lubrication, even in the high mileage applications.

You don't have to go overboard. Just make sure you change the oil often (even if you don't drive the car), and use the correct oil.

 

g6civcx,
More often than necessary is a waste. However, if you wish to change your oil every 3,000 miles, I suggest using a conventional or blend, instead of wasting Redline. The VOA of the Quaker State 4X4 Blend that I recently posted is a very robust oil at $11/5-quart jug; that oil in the 5w-20 version will do well for shorter drains.

I'd have to disagree with you about the API certification. The API standard is quite lame, and has a lot to do with $$$. Some of the best oils on the market lack API certification because of amount of money is costs to certify it. In addition, some cannot meet the specs for say, API SM because of the overdose of additives that are in the oil. (hint: Redline does not meet API SM because of its overdose of calcium in the oil to boost the TBN and increases the acid neutralization capability)

Lastly, some people expect the same performance out of a $1/quart Supertech oil at Walmart as they do from a $2/quart bottle of Quaker State 4X4 Blend simply because of the API rating, and their "donut." IMPORTANT: Although some oils have API ratings, they may not have the "DONUT" on it. Think of the API standard in a way, similar to the minimum gov't standards for safety in cars. Sure, all cars I'm sure must meet some minimum safety standards before they're allowed to be sold on the market, but why are some cars safer than others. I think you get what I mean...API certification isn't everything.

Michael

 

BTW, you're telling people NOT to go overboard, but you're going overboard yourself by wasting money and resources by buying the most expensive oil and changing it every 3-mo/3K???

Michael

 

In addition, I'd also like to note that the API SM standard was a step FORWARD for conventionals since standards were upped, but it was a step BACKWARD for synthetics since they were no longer allowed to use as much calcium and phosphorus as before, thus reducing their service life.

Michael

 

Just FYI, I was at Costco today and the 6-quart cases of 5W-30 Mobil 1 were $24.99. I picked up a few as that's the oil I use for the 'vette. Sometimes Walmart has sales on Mobil-1 but there's no Walmarts in Chicago so this was kind of nice to see. I'll probably stock up on some more this weekend. If you are doing your own oil changes and like synthetic that's a good deal.

 

With all due respect, I said that this is what I do. I also said to at the very least to follow the service schedule outlined in the Owner's Manual. Please do not misunderstand.

Oil change interval depends on how you utilise the engine. For my race vehicles, I change the oil before and after every race. Those engines are operating at extreme conditions. The oil acts not only as lubrication, but also as a net for debris that makes their way into the engine internals. If I waited for 3,000 miles, the engine is sure to self-destruct and seize up.



I recommend the API standard because that's what the factory recommends. Please check your Owner's Manual.

For my motorbikes, I do not use oil with friction modifiers due to the wet clutch. So therefore the API ratings are not appropriate for all cases.


Given the balance between efficiency and protection versus longevity, which one would you choose? What are your sources?

I can change the oil in the RL in under 5 minutes since I've done thousands of oil changes. I've also seen oil that hasn't been change for 10,000 miles. It costs me $50 per oil change. That's not a lot of money in my book for the protection I get.

I also do a lot of driving. I typically drive about 60,000 miles every year, oftentimes in extreme climates with a lot of stop-and-go traffic. This is almost 5 times the average. I almost never hit the 3-month limit (except for my vehicles in storage) before hitting the 3,000 mile mark.

 

g6civcx,
Please prove to me that you are compromising longevity of your engine by going past 3mo/3K. Almost all oils on the market today are good for at least 6-mo/5K, let alone Redline. I've seen Redline used for over 14K in very stressful conditions, even going through large amounts of dirt ingestion and a small 3 qt sump in a hot running 1.8L Nissan engine.

I'd gladly change my view on the subject if you can prove to me that going past 3mo/3K will compromise the longevity of your engine.

I have my UOAs ready.

Michael

 

Here's an example:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=001335#000000

Oil was used for over 14,000 miles....6K into the oil the engine went through an accident and the engine ingested large amounts of dirt. The oil continued to be used for another 8K, much of it in stop-n-go dallas traffic.

In the end, the oil had plenty of life remaining if one could filter it and control the oxidation and lower the TAN.

Another example:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=002548#000004

Redline 5w-20 being stressed greatly through hard driving, lots of dust. Car even has a mechanical problem, and the oil is still protecting very well.

Michael

 

On the manufacturer's recommendation subject, I'd like to add that if a car specs 5w-30, a 0w-30 is acceptable, we can agree on that one right?

Keep in mind that from the time that the MFG writes the manual, to present, there have been changes in the industry and better formulations and been introduced.

API discussion...you can say what you want. But I'll just leave it here, and that, the API standard is quite lame, and I wouldn't take it as seriously as you're taking it.

Michael

 

Let's not forget that the Feds make the auto mftr recommend the same oil they test with for HP and MPG ratings.

Honda, Ford, and others like to test with thinner oil (i.e. 5W-20) to wring the most HP and MPG out. But then, they must recommend these viscosities.

If it weren't for that, they would probably recommend good ole 10W-30. In fact, those same companies DO recommend the thicker oil in their performance models like the S2000.

I wouldn't have a problem using either viscosity in my TL. In fact, I have M1 10W-30 in it right now. I live in Florida. We don't do winter. So, I don't care what the W rating is. My oil seldom gets lower than 80 degrees just sitting in the garage.

 

This thread is getting silly. This is what I do based on my situation, knowledge, and experience. I'm simply sharing that experience. You take it for what it's worth.

I am not recommending that anybody do what I do. I am saying the Owner's Manual, written for an '05 model, may contain some useful information for you. You do what you want.

Your engine can take any viscosity. It depends on the application, ie. ambient temperature, type of driving, how dusty it gets, so on and so forth.


My general recommendation is if you race, especially roadracing, you should change the oil before and after every race (as well as do a complete system check, time permitting). For everything else, do as you wish. Just make sure you at least follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

I like RedLine because you can pour it without a funnel. That's my reasoning and you don't have to like it.

I like this forum because it is free of the usual bickering that goes on just about everywhere else. This is a really simple topic. Do what you want. You'll probably not even notice the difference. As long as you're respectful, disagreeing is fine. In the end you're the one to face the benefits/consequences of your actions.

 

Like g6civcx, I also like to change oil very frequently (every 3000km or about 1800 miles). I do this because I drive very little (6000km per year) and I feel it is best to put fresh oil in every 6 months. I initially started this regime because I would put winter oil (eg. 5W20) in when fall rolled around and and summer oil (eg. 10W40) in the spring. With my RL, they recommend 5W20 year round, so I may change a little less frequently.

 

No, the reason why they recommended the 5w-20 was to boost their overall CAFE. No one made them use 5w-20, it was simply their choice as it was an inexpensive way to boost their CAFE.

Xpditor, I think the main reason why Honda recommended 10w-30 in the S2000 was because it was high performance engine that runs hotter, and was more susceptible to oil consumption.

The 10w-30 engine oils tend to have a higher HT/HS, but more importantly, a lower NOACK volatility % which tends to equal less evaporation loss at high temperatures. This may help lower consumption as prolonged, excessive oil consumption can cause damage to expensive emission control devices.

This is also another reason why the introduction of the API SM standard led to a reduction in additives in an effort to prevent any damage to the emission control devices if excessive consumption took place.

Michael

 

Please refer to page 305 of your 2005 RL's Owner's Manual. For those who don't actually have an RL, please refer to the owner's manual for your specific model.



Then it goes on to say this on page 306:


The recommended oil change interval as prescribed by Acura is every 3,750 miles/3-months.



Michael Wan, with all due respect, you do realise that you are in fact prescribing us to go against the manufacturer and API. This is fine and good, but what do you anticipate to be the consequences with respect to the manufacturer's drivetrain warranty if you disclose the fact that you use a non-approved oil? I know that Honda/Acura is more generous with regards to warranty work than most, but for some other brands, such as a Mitsubishi, they will deny your warranty claim.

 

Ladies and gentlemen of the jury, I would like to direct your attention to Exhibit 1.

 

We are talking about a 2005 RL? If so, doesn't the MID computer tell you when the oil change is needed?

 

Yes, and yes. The dealers also try to rip you off by making you change the oil more often.

 

This doesn't appear to be from the owners manual. Was this a dealer oriented letter? ..or does this come from the regional/national office??


????btw- what does the manual say about dusty conditions ...or stuff the the computer can't account for???

3m/3750 is a lame OCI for any contemporary engine with any contemporary oil. It's for suckers.

 

Your picture shows an owner's manual covered by a Service Dept. mailout from the dealer.

The service dept doesn't make any money unless you come in early and often and pay large sums of money for fairly routine service- like oil and filter changes. Service Departments have been telling people 3 mos and 3500 miles for the last 30-40 years. They ignore the manufacturer's MIDs and recommendations, not to mention the progress in oils.

The Owner's Manual carries "recommendations" for oil and for API certification; not a requirement. It's a safe thing to do- not knowing about all the oils out there and available. I think what Michael was saying is that the absence of the API seal doesn't mean it's bad oil; it means it wasn't tested and certified by the API- at least that's how I read it.

I play it safe and follow the owner's manual recommendation as a minimum although I might go further.

The MID would have us changing oil and filter at about 7500 for a casual driver. I don't care to go that long myself. I change at about 50%.

 

You guys are going to go nuts when you find out that I change oil and filter twice a week

Do what you want. Dealers rip you off. MID is just a counter and can't account for harsh conditions. Nobody really knows what the oil composition is until you drain a sample and analyse it.

Ultimately it's your call. You do what you want.

 

I just wish I lived nearby so I could be there for the drain oil ...and even the filters. I have a beater or two that would be well served with high quality "previously owned" oil in such quanties.

No slam. Like you say .."it's your money and your ride. Do what you want!" It's what America is all about. Doing it your way.

 

Where did I mention that I suggested that you used a non-API oil? I was only trying to explain the API standard.

BTW, above, you're saying 3750/3-mo is the recommended OCI by Acura, yet in another post, you say that it is only suggested by the dealers to increase profits when you're in fact supposed to follow the MID.

No offense intended, but your stand on the issue here changes with each post.

Michael

 

In '99 I purchased a new BMW 540it Sport...all maintenance was covered by BMW....at 12K miles I called the dealer and told them
the maintenance light had not come on since I bought the car...they said I had to wait till the computer did it or it was at my expense.
Finally came on at 14K.......I sold the car at 15K miles....

Prior to that BMW, it was imperative to change the oil every 3000 miles....when I was paying the bill.