Just got a 2005 RL with 150,000 miles. It's a little bit of a project car but it runs and drives great.
The VSA light is on, the driver side front stabilizer end link is completely shot, one end of it isn't even connected anymore. I believe that's what is causing the light to go on, the part comes in tomorrow and I'm going to replace it.
The airbag light is on, it says the passenger and side airbag is off. I'm not sure if theres anything I can do besides bring it to the shop, if anyone has any ideas why please give your ideas.
The AFS light comes on whenver I turn on the headlights, the headlight will flicker and then go out at random times, and if I turn off the lights and back on, the headlights come back on no problem. This seems like a common issue for the 05 RLs, some people said it's the ballasts, others said it's the control unit, not really sure. I'm thinking about getting aftermarket headlights do you guys think that'll fix the problem?
The check engine light came on this morning, it says it's the emissions system, not sure what it could be, I retightened the gas cap but havent had a chance to drive it around to see if the light turns off.
I also havent had a chance to scan any of the lights, I plan on doing it soon.
Appreciate any help I can get, thanks!!!!

 

As for the gas cap. If it was loose then you probably fixed it. You might need a new cap though. The SRS system might have a lifetime warranty or maybe just the belts. Sounds like you already have an idea why the other light are on.

 

It was only tightened one click, I retightened it to 2 clicks but I havent had a chance to drive it much today so I'll have to update you. How would I go about checking the lifetime warranty? I'm not too sure about the VSA/AFS lights but once I replace the sway bar end links, I'll see if it goes off.
The cars been through a lot, 6 previous owners and it has some ware all around is there anything I should look at or replace to guarentee a longer lifetime?

 

There is no sensor on the end links... Meaning, the car doesn't know if it's broken or fixed.... In other words, fixing the end links won't fix the dash light

 

To guarantee a long life, you'll need to replace everything that is broken on the car. Replacing the end links is a great start!

 

Okay thanks, any ideas on what I could check that would be giving me the VSA light? I'm gonna scan everything later today.

 

Got p0420 and p0430, could an o2 sensor be both issues? I'm pretty sure it's atleast gonna solve one of the codes, but it may also be the catayltic converter right?

 

The vsa light come on when a obd2 scanner is connect to the port when scanning your car. Don’t not know why this happens on the Acura rl. My 2005 Acura rl sometime come on when I am scanning the car. All you need is a wire and paper clip. There a YouTube video on how to reset the vsa. The afs light is control by a sensor on the driver rear. It goes bad due to water getting inside the sensor. You can get it on eBay for about 16. It’s a level sensor . Hope this help you out.

 

My VSA light comes on everytime I start driving, but the AFS sensor might work, my headlights stay on most of the time after im driving for a while but sometimes they flicker and go out but i just turn them off and back on and its fine. did yours do that?

I also forgot to mention that whenver I go about 45mph the Check TMPS System light comes on, the tire pressure is fine the tires are brand new so how would I fix the system?

 

Nobody has yet suggested a weak battery. Have you looked into that?

 

That's why they pay you the big bucks!

 

I replaced the battery like a weak ago, it was one of the first things I did. One of the terminals is pretty loose and I need to get it fixed though not sure if that could be the problem.

 

-bump- i just need some help figuring out what the VSA light and TMPS light are. Is it that big of an issue if it is not then how would I get the lights to stay off and stop coming on.

 

well, the loose terminal could be causing electrical problems...causing all lights to come on...

fix the terminal.....

 

Getting diagnosed and some small stuff replace will update tomorrow

 

So the mechanic said the p0420 & p0430 code means that he has to replace both CATs and then the VSA light is the two front ABS sensors, both of which cost a lot of money to fix. I saw a bunch of cheaper ways to fix it like using CAT cleaners or replacing the sensors myself. Anyone know if these are easy fixes or the parts I'd need for these fixes?

He also said that the airbag light is a buckle switch and that we should probably see the dealer for it. No idea how to fix this or if theres an easier fix.

 

you gotta start somewhere...
I would start with the loose battery terminal.
then move on to the 02 codes...I would try to replace the 02 sensors first, instead of the cats...unless you know it's the cats...if you can smell fuel/rotten eggs, then its for sure the cats.
then I would head to the dealer for the air bag light.
then I would address the ABS sensors..

that is of course, if the loose battery terminal doesnt fix all of those items first.

but no matter how you slice it; you're going to have drop a few grand to get all of this fixed.
Did you buy the car like this? or did you over time, neglect maintenance?
re-read the posts, it seems like you bought this nightmare of a car in this condition. hope you didnt buy it for a lot of money...cuz...uhhh.....

 

I fixed the loose terminal and it didnt solve any lights. Also replaced the end links but like you said that didnt fix any lights either. I dont smell any rotten eggs but occasionally I do get a whiff of fuel sometimes though.
I did buy the car like this, its my first car I bought off a private party and it was only for 3500, and I definitely missed a lot of things when checking out the vehicle. Got it for 3500 so I didnt spend too much thankfully.
It's got 150,000 miles the body is in pretty good shape, it's got some scratches all around it but when the car's in good condition I don't mind spending a few hours working on all the scratches to get the body in better condition.
Do you think it's worth to drop a few grand on all these repairs? I was hoping I wouldnt have to spend that much til the engine or transmission needed replacing because I'm not sure it worth to spend that much on the car.

 

I erased the p0420 and p0430 error codes a week ago, and I've been daily driving it all around town all week and the check engine light has not come back on, I'm going to try some CAT cleaners because someone else said that they fixed their error codes using it.

If the check engine light has not come back on, is that a good sign? Because if the CATs were shot then wouldn't it just come back on? Thanks.

 

It's always a good sign when the Check Engine light doesn't come back on, in any car.

Overall, like justnspace said, I wouldn't sink a lot of money into this car. Let it prove it's worth it by responding to some cheap fixes first, as you've been doing.

 

I replaced the rear driver side leveling sensor, I think it's called the stroke sensor or something.
Before I replaced it the AFS light would only come on when the headlights were on, now the light is always blinking when the key is in the ON position. Not sure why, I disconnected the battery for like 5ish minutes and reconnected it with no luck. Is there another way to reset the light? I feel like i've seen some RLs do a self-test of the lights, also have no idea how to do that. The headlights still flicker randomly, sometimes they stay on my entire drive, other times they go out randomly and with some hard turns. Thanks for any responses.

 

BUMP still having this problem. My headlights still flicker, I don't really care about the blinking AFS light but it's super annoying so if anyone knows how to turn it off easy let me know please. For the headlight flickering I'm thinking of replacing the ballasts or getting aftermarket headlights. Any ideas?

 

Here's the re-learn steps - give it a shot.

1. Remove all of the baggage from the vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)
3. Make sure the AFS indicator does NOT turn off. (if the AFS indicator turns off, the adaptive front lighting control unit is not a new or previously learned unit.)
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and then back ON (II)
5. Within 5 seconds turn the headlight switch ON/OFF or to passing three times.
6. Make sure the AFS indicator blinks in a 1 second cycle. (if the indicator does not blink, return to step 2)
7. Turn the headlights ON and make sure the headlights move while the AFS control unit runs the initialization function.
8. Turn the steering wheel 90 degrees or more from the center position to the left and right position.
9. Test-drive, with only the driver in the vehicle, in a straight line for 98.4 feet (30m) at 16mp/h (25km/h) or more.
10. Make sure the indicator turns off. (if the indicator does not turn off, repeat the step 8 and 9)
11. Adjust the headlights

Replacing the stroke sensor shouldn't require this to be done but that is the procedure.

*** There's a complete thread on this issue here....

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-745460/page2/

 

Okay, I'll try tomorrow and see if that works but at this point I'm pretty sure the AFS unit is shot. My main concern with my car right now is the P0420 and P0430 code. My mechanic instantly told me that to fix it requires replacing both CATs, I've done some research and I'm not sure if I have to do all that.
I don't ever smell rotten eggs, sometimes with the windows down I get a whiff of gas not sure if that relates to the CATs. My fuel economy is pretty bad I get about 14-16 in my rural town. I do think theres a lack of power sometimes when driving.
I added oxiclean a couple days ago and I saw a slight mpg increase but not sure if anybody has any other ideas, maybe o2 sensor?? thanks all

 

My experience is 14-16 mpg around town is about right. Pure freeway, I can get 25+.

 

I also had those stupid emissions lights as well. What i did was bought 2 spark plug non foulers and put them over front and back downstream o2 sensors and the light never came back. I think when the cat's efficiency drops below 70% it starts giving those lights. Moreover, regardless of mileage, with time the precious metal coating from cats starts to wash away and then they become inefficient. For afs you may want to disconnect battery completely, leave for good 20-30 min, cycle the ignition key couple times, then connect it and it may help reset the ecu. Other wise you need someone with a bigger bidirectional scan tool to analyze and pinpoint the exact problem.

 

I erased the code like 2 weeks ago and I drive a lot and the light has not come back on yet and correct me if I'm wrong but the foulers are just to get rid of the CEL right? And if 14-16mpg is good for my town area then I'm not sure how else to determine the state of my cat.
Regarding the AFS light, when I replaced the stroke sensor I let the battery stay off for about 5-10minutes not 20-30 like you said, should I try disconnecting the battery again? My lights don't flicker too much at night, but sometimes they flicker and then go out but I'm guessing that has nohing to do with the AFS unit right?

 

BUMP The check engine light I erased two weeks ago just came back yesterday when I was driving. Codes P0420 and P0430, I added oxicat about a week ago and saw a 1mpg improvement, but it didn't seem to fix the CEL, any other cleaners or additives I should try using?
And my AFS light is still blinking,

 

Deepa1600 gave you a solution for your O2 sensor issues that should fix the P-codes you are seeing. Too many chemicals will create other issues.

Honda (Acura) has their efficiency ratings set so high (esp. U-LEV II vehicles), that once the CAT drops about 10-12 % you'll start seeing the codes appear. Gap out the O2's and ignore it until your mileage drop costs more than the fix.

Enjoy the drive!

 

Since the CEL came back on, I'm gonna try the defoulers. I know I have to drill a 1/2'' hole in one of them and then attach them together so the o2 sensor has a spacer and that somehow removes the CEL right?
Will these fit my 2005 rl? Is there anywhere to buy defoulers that I don't have to drill? Thanks all.

 

Bump I want to try the defoulers but I know literally nothing about it can someone explain it? And which defoulers would fit my 2005 RL, I put an amazon link in the post above.

 

Those foulers you mentioned will work. I think when i did mine i used same foulers for each sensor because the main point of it is to mask some of the exhaust gases, which it does by covering the sides of O2 sensor. I would use high temp antisieze (use nickel based) on all of the threads (don't let it get on o2 sensor). And you need to put these on downstream O2 sensors and use accordingly to the MIL code. Anyway here is a tutorial on

 

Always rule out the battery and connections first.

The AFS sensor fixed most of my problems, I also had a ripped boot on the intake after the sensor that I replaced.

After all of that, I've been driving mine for years with a back bank 02 sensor code.
It comes and goes and I keep going.
I doubt I'll ever fix it at this point.