I got a quote for $44,000... I got the salesman to $42,500 but didn't finalize anything. Please let me know what’s the lowest price you paid for your '06 RL? Also, whats the lowest quote you've gotten. Please just post anything less than $43K.

Thanks in advance.

 

I'd say that if you got $42,500 you need to take that deal and run. I wouldn't expect it to be that low that soon, at least not everywhere. I think it's the best deal I've read on here for an 06 yet, but I may be wrong.

 

Heck, you can just about buy it for that amount, resell it and make a dollar or two!

 

Pay to much taxes.

 

Wish you could find the RL for that price in California.

Michael

 

I will sell to you. $2k more for delivery.

 

that's cheap...it's a steal IMO

 

Shopping around a quote on an Internet board for a lower price is just bad taste. If you got $42.5k you probably did some negotiation or [mis]-represented yourself as a serious buyer at that time.

If that's true and I was an Acura salesman, I wouldn't be happy.

 

What do you mean?

 

The dealer can say no to the deal. So long as cars are sold on negotiated pricing, there's absolutely nothing that is unfair that a consumer can do to a dealer. The dealer holds all the cards and has all the negotiating power. I couldn't care less if the salesman is happy, and it's up to the dealer to make the deal to make the salesman happy, anyway.

Ain't my problem -- my job is to get the car for as little money as possible, period.

Dealerships of all sorts employ tricks, bait & switch, deceptive advertising, delays, and all manner of pressure tactics to take advantage of car buyers, especially ones who are less educated about the products. Why is it wrong to go to the Internet to get information for a better deal?

 

Couldn't say it better myself. Why do I care of what the Dealer thinks. I want the best deal for me, since I'm the one putting up all the cash. I just don't understand why cant you tel la dealer on the side, I'll hit you up for $1K if I can get this care at its lowest price, since he knows what's the lowest price he can sell the car and what his manager might say. They will probably only get way less than that for their commision anyways.

 

Shopping around for a quote on the internet is perfectly acceptable. Who gives a damn about some Acura salesman who's only job is to stick it to you for the highest possible price and then never help you again once the sale is done.

There is no such thing as bad taste in a negotiaiton. It's a competition with a winner and a loser. Just like everything else in life.

And I intend to be damn sure that I win. With the way the RL is going, I will probably end up buying it for less than my TL by the end of the year.

 

42,500 Jesus. If that is what the 06 is going for I hate to see what my 05 with 6K miles on it is woth. Dealers are just screwing resale on these cars.

 

$42,500 is not really the price. The actual price is around $44K.

 

If you can get it for $42.5, take it and run. I used to work as a service writer for an import dealer (Jag/Infiniti/Acura) and I currently own a 2000 TL. The sticker on the RLs is around 49 something. I want to say invoice on those is around 42 from reading up on them and talking to the sales manager. These cars have the highest markup from invoice to sticker in the Acura line. I plan on buying one in several years, when I can actually afford an 05 model for around 20-25.....like I said it will probably be several years. I have a company truck, so I only drive the TL on weekends and it's only got 69k miles in exc. condition. I only got to drive the RLs around the parking lot (I worked for the Jag line--POS car, hated them, who would have one?); anyway, I've driven all the other models. That new RL is a fine machine! Too bad I didn't have the $ when I worked there....$100 over invoice and I could have picked out a new one---black/black is my choice!

 

Oh yeah, if you want a better deal get on to Edmunds and do a search for the model. One of the tabs says something about tips and advice; can't remember exactly, but it will tell you about any special offers Honda Finance has, along with any dealer cash that you wouldn't normally know about, as well as the holdback percentage on that model. Most dealers, especially Honda, won't let you touch the holdback. Look for dealer cash for year end sales where dealers are getting rid of previous model years. The factory pays them $ to move vehicles. These aren't Fords though, so don't expect to pay invoice and get $4000 cash back. If you can get an Acura for $500 over invoice you're doing well because our employee cost on Acuras at the time was $100 over invoice.

P.S --lindros 2, like the avatar of the AMEX centurion card; one has to be making some bucks for a credit card w/ a $2500 annual fee, LOL.

 

Inovice for an '06 RL is $43,907 non tech. I got the dealer to go low as $42.5, how are they still making money off of me? I just want to know how more low can I go until the dealer would crack, and say no I can't do it. So what I really want is the lowest price possible that the dealer would say, well we ain't making any money and at the same time saying we need to sell at least one more.

 

If you look at the new RL lease deal on acura.com, they have the cap cost at 43.9K. There is no way acura would jam their dealers like that and force them to take deal at inovice. If acura.com is offering the special, it always gives the dealer room. The actual dealer cost is less than 43.9K but how much less are they willing to take?

I don't think 42.5K is possible unless they are making money on you with some other aspect of the deal.

 

Holdbacks...bonuses...incentives to the dealer. The difference between the invoice price and the sales price is not all of the compensation that a dealer gets for selling a car. Imports don't have quite the same pricing structure that US cars do, but certainly, if the manufacturer is blowing the cars out on a special they're taking care of their dealers.

I really doubt you'll get much lower than $42.5K for a car that invoices at $43K, though. On an import? You're pushing 15% off sticker price in that range, which is amazing.

Maybe if you pushed very hard you could get an accessory or two thrown in, but really, you're firmly in the realm of diminishing returns.... in any negotiation, there's a time to take the deal.

 

Any price below $45k should make the RL a VERY worthy consideration.

 

You've already said you're not buying an RL...what's with the game playing? It's not surprising no one wants to deal with you!

You must enjoy seeing yourself in print..........

 

You got a problem? Nobody is talking to you, you bum; and stop taking pictures of your neighbors car and posting them online, is pathetic. I'm asking this question because I AM in the market of buying a new RL and looking for the best price.

 

Go back to your room junior or write the check. If $500 is between you and an RL, your are in the wrong league!

 

Here is your post from 2/28/06.....In case you forgot

02-28-2006, 6:50 PM
AltecBX
Registered User



Post #65

Join Date: May 2005
Location: NYC
Age: 25
Posts: 104
The tech from Acura jsut told me today, that the sounds comes from the transfer of power to the rear. He said is a design problem, just like the old tranny in the TL's. Acura is well aware of the problem, and will fix the problem in the near future. To me, I won't buy the RL until all bugs are fixed. Probably for mid '07 or '08. Good luck guys with your cars.

 

Maturity is the name of the game - you are trying to get the lowest price, but are arguing with people on this board at the same time.

And although I will agree that the "part of the game" is getting the lowest price, getting a FAIR price is important - my relationship with my dealer means more.

I paid an acceptable price and they treat me like royalty. If I was employed by the dealership and knew you were doing this shit, I wouldn't go out of my way at ALL for you.

If you really do pay $42.5k for a 2006, let's see what happens in a service case in which the dealer has flexibility whether to help or just go strictly "by the book."

Not all salesmen or dealership people are slimeballs - there are good people out there too. You're reducing all of them to garbage because you feel that you should get the absolute lowest price. If you want to do that, buy a f'ing Kia or Ford from a "highway dealership."

 

CarsDirect for the Torrence zip code is $45122. CD for zip 10026 is $46622. $44522 is no profit except for holdback.

If you were truly offered an 06 for 42.5 and turned it down you are a fool and no one I know will offer you any sympathy. If you are willing to wait, then i would guess that you can get close to that sometime in August (or maybe even less) when Acura will give the dealers some better incentives (I'm guessing - but presuming similar to last year), but even if sales still are way below what Acura expects, getting any dealership owner to give up on holdback is just plain foolish. You will have to find a car thats been on the lot since November to make any kind of deal. So don't expect any color choice. you'll get what you get.

You want the car for around 45 like I did, call a few places in southern CA and tell them what you will offer as a max. Commit to the deal, send them a $2k deposit, then get the cashiers check for the rest, hop on a Southwest Air flight to LA and spend the $30 for a shuttle to the dealership and drive cross country home. Figure gas, food and motels will eat up that $1600 you save fairly quick - of course you could stop in Las Vegas and see if you can win some of it back.

I'm cheap but I'm also realistic. No one is going to offer you an 06 for less than invoice unless Acura gives them money to make up the difference.

 

Benush is correct---they can offer a car below invoice if there is dealer cash on the model, plus whatever their holdback is. Most dealers don't want to give up their holdback since that's their "guaranteed" profit. Acura is not notorious for having large dealer cash on its models also. The car could have been on the lot for over 90 days, the color may not be very popular, etc. Dealers have tons of reasons and ways to do this; I wrote service at a highline import dealership and talked to the sales consultants and managers daily. If they're selling it for 42.5 they're not losing $.

 

I have to disagree with this.

Absolutely nothing will happen from hard negotiating, unless you're using the "Tony Soprano" type negotiation (i.e. with a gun or a baseball bat, it's pretty popular here in New Jersey.... ) you'll never be dealing with the finance manager or the salesman ever again.

Once you're in the car, the deal is forgotten. Is your salesman going to even remember you? Only if you were truly an asshole... But making a sharp deal? They expect it.

The bottom line is, a dealer is NOT going to agree to a deal where they don't make any money. The dealer has its bottom line, the sales manager knows where it is, and they know where their profit is in the car. They simply won't go below that level.

Further, delaers make more money on the service end of the deal than they do on the car. The service manager's going to try to build relationships with customers no matter what. They know full well you can take your car anywhere for service.

Finally, if Acura is anything like other imports and high-line dealers, they get bonus cash in the service areas for high customer satisfaction surveys. That's why you get the card after every service visit, and why you're constantly bombarded with surveys, satisfaction calls, and the like. The dealers have to score "5's" on those things, it's
cash in their pocket.

So go ahead, negotiate to your heart's content. You'll find their bottom line, and that's it. I see nothing unfair in finding a bottom line price for you, using any and all research tools available, and them and sticking to it, and seeing how low they'll go.

I do, however, have to also agree with the poster who said that if it's $500 between you and a car that's upwards of $40K, then you are probably way out of your league in pricing. I mean, come on, you can't even buy TIRES for this car for $500. And unless you're spending your whole paycheck on the car (I guess some kids do that... although it's not too bright) the $8-10 a month difference it makes in the monthly payments just isn't worth another three hours of haggling.

To put it another way, most people who are in the market for a car in the 40-50K range can probably make $500 in the three hours it would take you to negotiate that deal. So, you're reaching the law of diminishing returns.

 

I'm looking to buy a nice new car. Either the 330i + sp pgk or the RL. I'm just looking to get the most for my buck. I can buy it at any dealer and always service it around my Acura dealer, why should I care where I bough the car?

 

In case it hasn't been mentioned, Acura has a $2,000 dealer holdback on RLs through March 31. Something to take into account when negotiating the purchase price.

 

Holy fark. That's a great price. If I had the extra $$ right now, I'd go south of the border to pick one up esp. with the exchange rate these days...



And definitely with what the people are saying...Get the car if the dealer has offered that kind of price.

 

What exactly is a dealer holdback? On Acura's website, the RL lease is now $599 per month with $1399 which is 1st month payment, Honda Lease Fee of $595 and $205 cap reduction.

Last month they were offering me $599 for 36 months with my sales tax (7.5%) included but it was $3694 down. I was close to buying but changed my mind at the last minute. With the new deal, I am definitely making a move this month.

Does the dealer have the same kind of room on this's month's offer as well?

I am going to buy the car sometime this month but wanted to understand this better. I've been doing lease calcuations but I can't get the numbers to work out right. I also don't understand how much room the dealer has to lower the price.

Please let me know. Thanks.

 

I agree with almost everything that jftjr wrote with the exception of the last paragraph.

I spent 3 minutes negotiating my price, not three hours. I got my price of $44,100 in April 2005 on my 2005 RL.

Here's how:

I sent emails to the internet contact at 4 surrounding Acura dealers telling them I was ready to buy an RL this week. I wanted their best price, period. The two best prices from the dealers were within $100. For my own convenience, I went to my local dealer and told him I had two bonified quotes at $44,100 and I would buy the car at his dealership if he matched the price and not ten cents more.

Result? Done deal in 3 minutes (plus 30 minutes of paperwork).

Why work hard, when you can work smart?

 

Did you buy or lease the car?

 

Because, according to the pricing in this thread... you left about $2000 on the table.

I agree with you, though, for the most part. But the point of the thread is not how to get a good price, it's how to beat the dealer up to get rock bottom. The submitter was looking to get another $500 off of an already-amazing deal, and had already invested a few trips to the dealer to get it.

That's my point about diminishing returns. I'm with you, I'd spend enough time to satisfy myself that I was getting a decent price and not getting hosed, and then sign the check. Some people, though, aren't happy until they've felt they've obtained every penny out of the deal that they can.

 

Holdback is the industry term for the per-car bonus that the dealership gets from the manufacurer. It's their guaranteed profit for selling the car. It's also how a dealer can sell you a car at "invoice" pricing -- because there's simply other cash in it for them.

Sounds like the deal they were offering you last month was just putting the sales tax up front.... it all depends on your state. Some states collect sales tax on leases up front (PA does this) and some of them collect it on the payment per month (NJ does this). The $1399 deal is almost certainly not inclusive of taxes. And since that's a subvented lease from the company (i.e. the company is propping up the residual and providing a special lease rate) I would imagine that there's not a lot of flexibility there.

 

The dealer holdback is 3% of the MSRP which in the case of a non-tech RL would amount to $1479. Is the $2000 an additional dealer profit or an increase up to $2000 from $1479? I know that last year Acura gave their dealers an incentive of about that much ($2500 if memory serves) to help clear out the '05s, but my question is why they are starting that so soon (or are they?). It doesn't really matter much to me because when buying mine I use a technique similar to NorCalRL, but instead I email to say what my bottom line was and gave them 24 hours to respond. I'm just curious about whether "their" bottom line change is from $1479 to $2000 or $3479?
Thanks

 

I don't know whether the $2,000 is an increase of the hold back or even in addition to the 3%. I read about the holdback on Edmunds and I was also e-mailed this information from a close friend who is a fleet manager for a Lincoln-Mercury dealer.

 

What dealership in the Metro NYC area gave you this price?? I have friends and family who are looking to purchase an RL.

PM me the dealership, if you feel that you can't post it. I promise I wont say a word to the salesman that you got him down to $42.5k, I'll do my own haggling.

 

So how much room is there for the dealer based on Acura's new lease deal of $1399 and $599 per month?

Is it the same for the dealer as the February lease on Acura.com or less? In the details the cap cost is 43.9K so what can I reasonably negotiate in terms of lease payment?