Legend Lights V 2.2
10-18-2011, 02:08 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Legend Lights V 2.2
Just a sneak peak of the new lights that should be in the car before friday.
OEM RL with Kia Clear Lens 50w Ballast Osram CBI bulbs
FX-R bi xenon projectors with 50w Ballast and Osram CBI Bulbs
OEM RL with Kia Clear Lens 50w Ballast Osram CBI bulbs
FX-R bi xenon projectors with 50w Ballast and Osram CBI Bulbs
10-19-2011, 12:04 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
yea its been pretty intense. very very tight fit. i got about 11 hours into it so far. i got about another 11 to go.
also cleaning, sanding, buffing, the lights.
also cleaning, sanding, buffing, the lights.
10-20-2011, 09:46 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
yup im doing my best with my limited knowledge of polishes and compounds and pads. results are pretty good.
started with some 1000>1500>2500>3000 Grit>3m yellow pad blackfire compound>3m blue pad with blackfire polish>Blue magic lens protectant
started with some 1000>1500>2500>3000 Grit>3m yellow pad blackfire compound>3m blue pad with blackfire polish>Blue magic lens protectant
Trending Topics
10-20-2011, 10:10 AM
#8
holy crap that looks amazing. i wonder how it will look on the car and lit. man the road is going to be terrified with all that light.
how would the drl work or were you able to turn it off?
nice work.
how would the drl work or were you able to turn it off?
nice work.
10-20-2011, 06:30 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
havent had a chance to install them on the car. its been 38-42 degree's pouring rain. not very fun in a gravel driveway. hoping to install them tomm. ill figure out a way around the error codes if there are any. im hoping the bixenon solenoid will complete the circuit and not give a error code
10-21-2011, 07:05 AM
#12
Carbon, I realise that you consider any criticism a troll of your thread but I would like to point out the following to other readers who have a more open mind.
More lumens output increases the contrast ratio to the eyes of oncoming drivers irrelevant of cut-off. (Easily determined by driving at night and noticing the difference in brightness of the oncoming cars).
A sharp cut-off was deemed by real world testers as being less usefull than a spread of light particularly in areas without street lighting or undulating road sufaces. (Determination made by comparing sharp cut off EU 65w against US 65w lenses).
A higher Kelvin was determined to be less useful for illumination in situations where moisture in the air was a factor, I.E. fog. (Common knowledge among people who understand color temperature and the acuity of the eye).
A 50w HID is marginally brighter than a stock 35w HID. (approximately 10%) You are correct in changing the lenses to "focus" the available light in the area that is useful.
Your situation may be different but here in Southern California we have recently had a lot of fog at night and it is easy to notice the high percentage of people who have modified their headlights to the detriment of themselves and to others. I drive in excess of 50% of the time at night and in 126000 miles, I have used my high beams for less than 3 miles of that total. My low beams, however, have been slightly raised to eliminate the dark areas beyond the sharp cut-off that occurs when the attitude of the car is opposed the the undulations of the road.
As noted earlier, your situation maybe diffent but your proposed modifications may not be the ideal solution.
And yes, I really do work with 750w HID lamps which have their output directed through a slit that is about an inch long by 1/8 inch wide and it is bright enough to permanently blind you.
More lumens output increases the contrast ratio to the eyes of oncoming drivers irrelevant of cut-off. (Easily determined by driving at night and noticing the difference in brightness of the oncoming cars).
A sharp cut-off was deemed by real world testers as being less usefull than a spread of light particularly in areas without street lighting or undulating road sufaces. (Determination made by comparing sharp cut off EU 65w against US 65w lenses).
A higher Kelvin was determined to be less useful for illumination in situations where moisture in the air was a factor, I.E. fog. (Common knowledge among people who understand color temperature and the acuity of the eye).
A 50w HID is marginally brighter than a stock 35w HID. (approximately 10%) You are correct in changing the lenses to "focus" the available light in the area that is useful.
Your situation may be different but here in Southern California we have recently had a lot of fog at night and it is easy to notice the high percentage of people who have modified their headlights to the detriment of themselves and to others. I drive in excess of 50% of the time at night and in 126000 miles, I have used my high beams for less than 3 miles of that total. My low beams, however, have been slightly raised to eliminate the dark areas beyond the sharp cut-off that occurs when the attitude of the car is opposed the the undulations of the road.
As noted earlier, your situation maybe diffent but your proposed modifications may not be the ideal solution.
And yes, I really do work with 750w HID lamps which have their output directed through a slit that is about an inch long by 1/8 inch wide and it is bright enough to permanently blind you.
The following users liked this post:
XXBogey (10-21-2011)
10-21-2011, 10:07 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
i understand your concern and safety for other drivers. My fogs are being replaced with 3000K for foul weather driving.
My headlights will be tested height and width and i will do some real testing with my friends following them and oncoming to them to make sure it doesnt hurt there eyes.
Im a big believer in safety. I do live out in the boonies. 45-60% of my driving is country with no street lights and alot of wildlife, deer, racoons, opossum, and Amish community (horse and buggy, bikes and walking people)`
My headlights will be tested height and width and i will do some real testing with my friends following them and oncoming to them to make sure it doesnt hurt there eyes.
Im a big believer in safety. I do live out in the boonies. 45-60% of my driving is country with no street lights and alot of wildlife, deer, racoons, opossum, and Amish community (horse and buggy, bikes and walking people)`
10-21-2011, 10:14 AM
#14
i understand your concern and safety for other drivers. My fogs are being replaced with 3000K for foul weather driving.
My headlights will be tested height and width and i will do some real testing with my friends following them and oncoming to them to make sure it doesnt hurt there eyes.
Im a big believer in safety. I do live out in the boonies. 45-60% of my driving is country with no street lights and alot of wildlife, deer, racoons, opossum, and Amish community (horse and buggy, bikes and walking people)`
My headlights will be tested height and width and i will do some real testing with my friends following them and oncoming to them to make sure it doesnt hurt there eyes.
Im a big believer in safety. I do live out in the boonies. 45-60% of my driving is country with no street lights and alot of wildlife, deer, racoons, opossum, and Amish community (horse and buggy, bikes and walking people)`
Are you going HID with the fogs? If so, it would be perfect if you could turn the headlights off and only drive with the fogs. The headlights light up the fog but the 3K do not. It is unfortunate that USA law demands that fogs may only be used in addition to headlights.
10-21-2011, 10:26 AM
#15
Senior Moderator
I am getting close to finishing my DRL->Fog switch. I built everything up and fried my transistor upon testing. I need to add a few components to protect it. I hope to have it complete by next weekend, and I will post a schematic and write up. 
The following users liked this post:
EL19 (10-25-2011)
10-21-2011, 11:36 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
using a 1n4001 or 4002 diode to prevent backfeed?
i definately need the 3K hids for winter time we can get as much as 24+ inches of lake effect snow over night and work never closes so everyone has to come in.
I know 5k does not help with moisture or snow. 4300k doesnt do much better but 3000k does awesome in the fogs. and yes the foglights will be HID as well.
i definately need the 3K hids for winter time we can get as much as 24+ inches of lake effect snow over night and work never closes so everyone has to come in.
I know 5k does not help with moisture or snow. 4300k doesnt do much better but 3000k does awesome in the fogs. and yes the foglights will be HID as well.
Last edited by Carbon Legend; 10-21-2011 at 11:38 AM.
The following users liked this post:
EL19 (10-25-2011)
10-21-2011, 01:35 PM
#18
Senior Moderator
10-21-2011, 05:23 PM
#21
Advanced
Legends Lights V 2.2
Carbon, I realise that you consider any criticism a troll of your thread but I would like to point out the following to other readers who have a more open mind.
More lumens output increases the contrast ratio to the eyes of oncoming drivers irrelevant of cut-off. (Easily determined by driving at night and noticing the difference in brightness of the oncoming cars).
A sharp cut-off was deemed by real world testers as being less usefull than a spread of light particularly in areas without street lighting or undulating road sufaces. (Determination made by comparing sharp cut off EU 65w against US 65w lenses).
A higher Kelvin was determined to be less useful for illumination in situations where moisture in the air was a factor, I.E. fog. (Common knowledge among people who understand color temperature and the acuity of the eye).
A 50w HID is marginally brighter than a stock 35w HID. (approximately 10%) You are correct in changing the lenses to "focus" the available light in the area that is useful.
Your situation may be different but here in Southern California we have recently had a lot of fog at night and it is easy to notice the high percentage of people who have modified their headlights to the detriment of themselves and to others. I drive in excess of 50% of the time at night and in 126000 miles, I have used my high beams for less than 3 miles of that total. My low beams, however, have been slightly raised to eliminate the dark areas beyond the sharp cut-off that occurs when the attitude of the car is opposed the the undulations of the road.
As noted earlier, your situation maybe diffent but your proposed modifications may not be the ideal solution.
And yes, I really do work with 750w HID lamps which have their output directed through a slit that is about an inch long by 1/8 inch wide and it is bright enough to permanently blind you.
More lumens output increases the contrast ratio to the eyes of oncoming drivers irrelevant of cut-off. (Easily determined by driving at night and noticing the difference in brightness of the oncoming cars).
A sharp cut-off was deemed by real world testers as being less usefull than a spread of light particularly in areas without street lighting or undulating road sufaces. (Determination made by comparing sharp cut off EU 65w against US 65w lenses).
A higher Kelvin was determined to be less useful for illumination in situations where moisture in the air was a factor, I.E. fog. (Common knowledge among people who understand color temperature and the acuity of the eye).
A 50w HID is marginally brighter than a stock 35w HID. (approximately 10%) You are correct in changing the lenses to "focus" the available light in the area that is useful.
Your situation may be different but here in Southern California we have recently had a lot of fog at night and it is easy to notice the high percentage of people who have modified their headlights to the detriment of themselves and to others. I drive in excess of 50% of the time at night and in 126000 miles, I have used my high beams for less than 3 miles of that total. My low beams, however, have been slightly raised to eliminate the dark areas beyond the sharp cut-off that occurs when the attitude of the car is opposed the the undulations of the road.
As noted earlier, your situation maybe diffent but your proposed modifications may not be the ideal solution.
And yes, I really do work with 750w HID lamps which have their output directed through a slit that is about an inch long by 1/8 inch wide and it is bright enough to permanently blind you.
10-21-2011, 11:21 PM
#22
Senior Moderator
Pretty much anytime the DRLs are supposed to be on, the fogs will be on. Everything else will be the same.
I do not have an Accord switch or know what they used. Do you know how much $ it runs?
10-22-2011, 12:52 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
accord switch is around $70 without wiring.
You can take a capacitor i forget the cap value but you can take that with a diode on the end and it will be like a 12v supply and you can run that signal to the foglight instead of running a full board of transistors and resistors.
You can take a capacitor i forget the cap value but you can take that with a diode on the end and it will be like a 12v supply and you can run that signal to the foglight instead of running a full board of transistors and resistors.
10-22-2011, 08:27 AM
#24
i understand your concern and safety for other drivers. My fogs are being replaced with 3000K for foul weather driving.
My headlights will be tested height and width and i will do some real testing with my friends following them and oncoming to them to make sure it doesnt hurt there eyes.
Im a big believer in safety. I do live out in the boonies. 45-60% of my driving is country with no street lights and alot of wildlife, deer, racoons, opossum, and Amish community (horse and buggy, bikes and walking people)`
My headlights will be tested height and width and i will do some real testing with my friends following them and oncoming to them to make sure it doesnt hurt there eyes.
Im a big believer in safety. I do live out in the boonies. 45-60% of my driving is country with no street lights and alot of wildlife, deer, racoons, opossum, and Amish community (horse and buggy, bikes and walking people)`
10-22-2011, 03:24 PM
#25
Senior Moderator
accord switch is around $70 without wiring.
You can take a capacitor i forget the cap value but you can take that with a diode on the end and it will be like a 12v supply and you can run that signal to the foglight instead of running a full board of transistors and resistors.
You can take a capacitor i forget the cap value but you can take that with a diode on the end and it will be like a 12v supply and you can run that signal to the foglight instead of running a full board of transistors and resistors.
10-25-2011, 11:15 PM
#26
i did see some one on ebay selling the accord switch for $60 with all the wiring.
nd hey oo7spy do you have a wiring diagram for this drl switch?
also carbon and night shots and can the fx projectors come on with out the low beams? have them like the new lexus RX. that the middle is the low beams.
nd hey oo7spy do you have a wiring diagram for this drl switch?
also carbon and night shots and can the fx projectors come on with out the low beams? have them like the new lexus RX. that the middle is the low beams.
10-26-2011, 11:07 AM
#27
Senior Moderator
I do, but I am not ready to post it. Everything works fine using a bench power supply but not when I plug it into the car. I am still in debug mode. Getting really close though. I hope to have it all installed by Sat. Once it is on and verified to work, I will post a schematic.
An interesting observation I have come across is that the DRL code is only thrown if both high-beams are unloaded. If either side is seeing a load, light bulb, resistor, etc., it will not throw a code. Good news for my setup as I planned to load the driver's side.
An interesting observation I have come across is that the DRL code is only thrown if both high-beams are unloaded. If either side is seeing a load, light bulb, resistor, etc., it will not throw a code. Good news for my setup as I planned to load the driver's side.
10-28-2011, 06:03 AM
#28
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
trying to work on Night shots. Horrible time of the year to get night pictures in Indiana. So much rain right now in the fall. rain is not flattering for taking HID pictures.
The Lights can come on any way that you want if you are good with wiring. i have mine to come on with the lights. i always have 6 lights running. and it does make the car look more aggressive rolling. at least through my eyes
The Lights can come on any way that you want if you are good with wiring. i have mine to come on with the lights. i always have 6 lights running. and it does make the car look more aggressive rolling. at least through my eyes
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mada51589
3G TL Problems & Fixes
79
05-03-2022 08:54 PM
prox
5G TLX Problems & Fixes
6
09-01-2015 02:03 AM
