I-027: Humming noise with subwoofer install
#1
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I-027: Humming noise with subwoofer install
has anyone install a subwoofer in the 06 rl?? do you have a humming noise problem when no volume is on at all. the car audio place said its cause of a magnetic field in the car causing it is this true?
#3
Safety Car
More likely the ANC. The ANC is tuned to the exact characteristics of the Bose subwoofer to cancel out low engine and exhaust noise. Try disabling putting your finger over one of the mics and see if there is a difference. If so, you will have to disable the ANC.
There are several threads about this you can search for.
There are several threads about this you can search for.
#5
Hello, new to the site. I am having the same exact issue. Even with the radio off, I will hear a loud humming from the subwoofer.
Chas2: after reading your post. I was in my car and the humming wasn't doing it's thing, so I put my finger over the front mic on the roof and the humming came on and and the more pressure I put over the mic, the louder the hum.
I did a quick look but couldn't find a thread where it'll show me how to disable the ANC mics. Could you post a link as I really need this done.
Thanks.
Chas2: after reading your post. I was in my car and the humming wasn't doing it's thing, so I put my finger over the front mic on the roof and the humming came on and and the more pressure I put over the mic, the louder the hum.
I did a quick look but couldn't find a thread where it'll show me how to disable the ANC mics. Could you post a link as I really need this done.
Thanks.
#6
Disable the rear ANC mic and you will be all good. I had the same problem on my 05 and if you disassemble the rear roof interior light and disconnect the rear ANC mic your humming will go away without any negative side effects.
#7
Thanks, Can't wait to get home and try this. I've been to numerous Stereo Install places and no one knew what was going on except the usual "try a different ground", "check the wiring" and so forth. I even bought a noise filter and ground loop isolator to try to solve this. I wish I found this site a couple months ago.
Oh, BTW..Gabe: I have an '05 Acura RL in Black, just like yours..I love it.
Oh, BTW..Gabe: I have an '05 Acura RL in Black, just like yours..I love it.
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#8
The local stereo place that installed my line converter and sub couldnt figure it out either. I found the solution right here on Acurazine. As a matter of fact Ive fixed several little annoying things with info Ive gotten from here from loose side mirrors to burnt out interior lights to windows that needed reprogrammed.
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solve the problem had to disconnect the front anc where the on-star is. and the rear one. i have an 06 rl. disconnect the rear still made the humming noise so i disconnect the front too an it went away
#11
I still have not had a chance to unplug the ANC, but if you unplug the fronts, doesn't that take away your ability to "talk" to the navigation or use bluetooth? I was just wondering. I don't "talk" to the navi and the bluetooth drops half of my calls (due to my phone, not car) so I would still unplug it if it gets rid of the annoying hum.
My system is a cheapy put together one. I have a Kenwood KAC-9104D (900 watt @ 2ohm) running 2 12" Alpine Type-R (wired @ 2 ohms). I have stock unit and run the line convertor to a crossover then to the Kenwood amp from the speaker wires from the stock amp to the stock subwoofer (Yes, I can control the Kenwood amp bass tone with the stock deck). I built a custom enclosure that fit right into the "groove" of the trunk. Now, I'm just trying to figure out if I want to just carpet the box or build a wall and hide the box. I'm leaning more towards the wall.
My system is a cheapy put together one. I have a Kenwood KAC-9104D (900 watt @ 2ohm) running 2 12" Alpine Type-R (wired @ 2 ohms). I have stock unit and run the line convertor to a crossover then to the Kenwood amp from the speaker wires from the stock amp to the stock subwoofer (Yes, I can control the Kenwood amp bass tone with the stock deck). I built a custom enclosure that fit right into the "groove" of the trunk. Now, I'm just trying to figure out if I want to just carpet the box or build a wall and hide the box. I'm leaning more towards the wall.
![Wish](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/wish.gif)
#14
Sorry, I didn't see where I could edit my post. I just took a quick look at the roof of my RL. Do I just carefully pry on the front roof mounted panel and the light panel in the rear to get to ANC plugs?
#15
Something is still stumping me, we are still getting the low frequency bass noise from the aftermarket subwoofer at idle/rev... I'm 100% sure it doesn't have anything to do with the ANC system because it's been completely removed. I've also tried relocating the ground already once and it hasn't solved..
Also relocated the speaker wires (and this line converter box) and moved them as far away as possible from the power and gain wires.
The big thing, is that when I rev the engine the bass increases on the subwoofer.
Any ideas?
Also relocated the speaker wires (and this line converter box) and moved them as far away as possible from the power and gain wires.
The big thing, is that when I rev the engine the bass increases on the subwoofer.
Any ideas?
![ugh](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/ugh.gif)
#17
i have the same probelem with my RL too i have a 12w7 and 1000/1 and its frustrating me cause if the door is open it doesnt humm but once its closed it just shakes the whole car somebody please help me thanks!
#18
Sorry to bring this old thread back to the surface, but I want to thank everyone for the info as well as add some step-by-step directions for disconnecting the rear mic, since I just did this today.
For any that are unsure the ANC is causing the noise you're hearing, you can temporarily turn off the ANC by following the directions in this video from another Azine member. Not explained in the video is once you've turned ANC off, press the power button to exit the diagnostic menu.
1. Use a small, flat-head screwdriver to pry the lens out of the rear dome light, there are two notches specifically for this purpose.
2. Using a standard phillips screwdriver, or optionally a socket, unscrew the two bolts holding the dome light in place.
3. Keeping light pressure on the surrounding headliner, pull down on the edges of the dome light until the only thing holding it in place is the bundle of wires attached to it. (Note that you don't have much slack, just enough to disconnect the dome light) Disconnect it, and set it aside for now.
4. Pull the cover for the third brake light - the one in the top of the rear windshield - straight down. There are four clips that hold it in place, all are toward the front of the car where the cover meets the headliner. Set this cover aside as well.
5. This step should be done with extreme care, if you break your headliner, you'll be pretty upset, I know I would be. GENTLY pull down on the back of the headliner to locate the two clips holding it in place (from memory, I'd guess about 6-8" in from either side). Once you locate the clips, carefully apply downward pressure from behind the headliner, as close to the clips as you can until they pop out. This should give you enough space to reach a skinny arm up around the headliner to where the ANC mic is. If you're a big guy (or girl for that matter), like myself, ask your skinny friend to help you with this. Again, if you break your headliner, you're gonna have a bad time.
6. The wires for the ANC mic come out on the right (passenger) side of the mic. There are two separate pairs that come out individually. I'll admit that I have no clue where any of them go, but I only needed to disconnect the pair closest to the rear of the car (perhaps the second pair goes to the front mic, which would explain why you only need to disconnect the rear one). To disconnect, there is a little notch facing the rear of the car on the far right (passenger) side. Push in with your fingernail on this and pull the cable to the right side of the car to disconnect.
Before you put everything back together, be sure to verify that this solved the problem. Turn your radio volume all the way down, if you have a bass control knob for your amp, (NOT the gain) crank that up as it will ensure there's no mistaking the sound, rev the engine to about 1,500 RPM then let it drop back down below 1,000 a few times. You shouldn't hear your sub(s), but you may hear the engine making the same sounds the ANC was trying to cancel out.
If all goes well, you should be set, just put your car back together, making sure to pop the headliner clips back into place.
Alternatively, it seems you can also just unplug the ANC module attached to the stock amp in the trunk. I had wondered if that would work, but didn't see the garage thread confirming it until after I disconnected the mic. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go that route.
For any that are unsure the ANC is causing the noise you're hearing, you can temporarily turn off the ANC by following the directions in this video from another Azine member. Not explained in the video is once you've turned ANC off, press the power button to exit the diagnostic menu.
1. Use a small, flat-head screwdriver to pry the lens out of the rear dome light, there are two notches specifically for this purpose.
2. Using a standard phillips screwdriver, or optionally a socket, unscrew the two bolts holding the dome light in place.
3. Keeping light pressure on the surrounding headliner, pull down on the edges of the dome light until the only thing holding it in place is the bundle of wires attached to it. (Note that you don't have much slack, just enough to disconnect the dome light) Disconnect it, and set it aside for now.
4. Pull the cover for the third brake light - the one in the top of the rear windshield - straight down. There are four clips that hold it in place, all are toward the front of the car where the cover meets the headliner. Set this cover aside as well.
5. This step should be done with extreme care, if you break your headliner, you'll be pretty upset, I know I would be. GENTLY pull down on the back of the headliner to locate the two clips holding it in place (from memory, I'd guess about 6-8" in from either side). Once you locate the clips, carefully apply downward pressure from behind the headliner, as close to the clips as you can until they pop out. This should give you enough space to reach a skinny arm up around the headliner to where the ANC mic is. If you're a big guy (or girl for that matter), like myself, ask your skinny friend to help you with this. Again, if you break your headliner, you're gonna have a bad time.
6. The wires for the ANC mic come out on the right (passenger) side of the mic. There are two separate pairs that come out individually. I'll admit that I have no clue where any of them go, but I only needed to disconnect the pair closest to the rear of the car (perhaps the second pair goes to the front mic, which would explain why you only need to disconnect the rear one). To disconnect, there is a little notch facing the rear of the car on the far right (passenger) side. Push in with your fingernail on this and pull the cable to the right side of the car to disconnect.
Before you put everything back together, be sure to verify that this solved the problem. Turn your radio volume all the way down, if you have a bass control knob for your amp, (NOT the gain) crank that up as it will ensure there's no mistaking the sound, rev the engine to about 1,500 RPM then let it drop back down below 1,000 a few times. You shouldn't hear your sub(s), but you may hear the engine making the same sounds the ANC was trying to cancel out.
If all goes well, you should be set, just put your car back together, making sure to pop the headliner clips back into place.
Alternatively, it seems you can also just unplug the ANC module attached to the stock amp in the trunk. I had wondered if that would work, but didn't see the garage thread confirming it until after I disconnected the mic. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go that route.
The following users liked this post:
Matt W (05-09-2012)
#19
Unplugging the ANC module in the trunk is the easier method of fixing the problem. It is the small unit attached to the Bose amp on the right side of the trunk. Just pull the connector off and you are done.
The only thing that you lose is the noise cancellation feature.
The only thing that you lose is the noise cancellation feature.
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oo7spy (05-11-2012)
#21
Racer
I thought you could just disable the feature in the audio menu. Isn't that the easiest method? I could not hear any difference with the noise cancellation on anyway so I won't miss it.
#22
Senior Moderator
^ That is only a temporary fix until you turn the car off. You cannot make it a default or saved setting.
Also, do not do any testing with the door open. I thought my system was teh exception to the rule when I tested it. The next day, I got in to drive and as soon as I closed the door, I got the hum. Turns out the ANC deactivates with at least the driver door open.
Also, do not do any testing with the door open. I thought my system was teh exception to the rule when I tested it. The next day, I got in to drive and as soon as I closed the door, I got the hum. Turns out the ANC deactivates with at least the driver door open.
#23
Racer
I see. Well then pulling the plug is an east fix. I might add one later so this is interesting to me, and good to know. But I wonder why there are so many pulling down the headliner to disconnect the mic, isn't that the hard way?
#24
Senior Moderator
That is the hard way. Some people have had to disconnect the front mic too. I pulled the rear light/mic unit down and couldn't even get the mic unplugged. I figured getting it plugged back in would be even harder if I wanted to return the car to stock. Also after pulling the unit down, it never set perfectly flush again, so I wasn't about to touch the front one.
The trunk was a breeze, and I didn't have to sweat my ass off sitting in the back seat trying to work.
The trunk was a breeze, and I didn't have to sweat my ass off sitting in the back seat trying to work.
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