Help! I think my car died...
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Help! I think my car died...
Hello everyone, I have a 2008 Acura RL. Yesterday, I was driving when suddenly my steering wheel almost froze, I felt the ignition and power die, and I got a check battery icon and the info screen said “check engine oil level.” Luckily I wasn’t on a busy road so I was able to pull over. I turned the car off, it wouldn’t start again. I tried jumping it, no luck. I don’t think it’s the battery because the power windows, AC, electronics, it all works, but the car’s refusing to start. My friend mechanic of mine came over to check it out, and says it’s either A. a starter issue or B. the engine locked. He said it could be the engine locking because he looked at the oil and said it didn’t look good. If it’s the latter issue, I’m really frustrated because literally three days ago I took the car to Valvoline for them to check on the oil. You see I got this car a year ago and the former owner had just given it a fully-synthetic oil change a month before I bought it. I was at 3000/5000 of those miles and while I should’ve still had 2K miles left to go on the oil, I played it safe and had them check it anyway. They told me it was FINE and that I could drive out the remainder of the 5K miles. Come to find out it wasn't fine and my car may be toast because of it. I towed the car to my house and it’s sitting in my driveway. Any advice?
first advice is to calm down.
second advice is to look at the oil level. is the oil level adequate? your buddy's answer is inconclusive.. why did he say it wasnt good? are you confusing oil level with oil life??? did valvoline change the oil or did the merely look at it? did they check the level of the oil????
we cant help unless you give us more details....check the level of the oil... is it at the full mark? or is it below the full mark?
second advice is to look at the oil level. is the oil level adequate? your buddy's answer is inconclusive.. why did he say it wasnt good? are you confusing oil level with oil life??? did valvoline change the oil or did the merely look at it? did they check the level of the oil????
we cant help unless you give us more details....check the level of the oil... is it at the full mark? or is it below the full mark?
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2020
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From: Cumming GA
first advice is to calm down.
second advice is to look at the oil level. is the oil level adequate? your buddy's answer is inconclusive.. why did he say it wasnt good? are you confusing oil level with oil life??? did valvoline change the oil or did the merely look at it? did they check the level of the oil????
we cant help unless you give us more details....check the level of the oil... is it at the full mark? or is it below the full mark?
second advice is to look at the oil level. is the oil level adequate? your buddy's answer is inconclusive.. why did he say it wasnt good? are you confusing oil level with oil life??? did valvoline change the oil or did the merely look at it? did they check the level of the oil????
we cant help unless you give us more details....check the level of the oil... is it at the full mark? or is it below the full mark?
The reason he is asking about oil level is be because with no oil, your engine will lock up. Check your oil level by pulling the dip stick. If that's the case, I'd suspect your "friends" at Valvoline my have done something wrong or put on a defective oil filter that leaked all your oil.
It's rare, but it can happen. I've personally had it happen to me (a different oil chain and a different car) where the drain plug was not tightened. Luckily I was backing up out of my garage later that same day and saw the leak before any damage was done.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
first advice is to calm down.
second advice is to look at the oil level. is the oil level adequate? your buddy's answer is inconclusive.. why did he say it wasnt good? are you confusing oil level with oil life??? did valvoline change the oil or did the merely look at it? did they check the level of the oil????
we cant help unless you give us more details....check the level of the oil... is it at the full mark? or is it below the full mark?
second advice is to look at the oil level. is the oil level adequate? your buddy's answer is inconclusive.. why did he say it wasnt good? are you confusing oil level with oil life??? did valvoline change the oil or did the merely look at it? did they check the level of the oil????
we cant help unless you give us more details....check the level of the oil... is it at the full mark? or is it below the full mark?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 45
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Sorry to hear that.
The reason he is asking about oil level is be because with no oil, your engine will lock up. Check your oil level by pulling the dip stick. If that's the case, I'd suspect your "friends" at Valvoline my have done something wrong or put on a defective oil filter that leaked all your oil.
It's rare, but it can happen. I've personally had it happen to me (a different oil chain and a different car) where the drain plug was not tightened. Luckily I was backing up out of my garage later that same day and saw the leak before any damage was done.
The reason he is asking about oil level is be because with no oil, your engine will lock up. Check your oil level by pulling the dip stick. If that's the case, I'd suspect your "friends" at Valvoline my have done something wrong or put on a defective oil filter that leaked all your oil.
It's rare, but it can happen. I've personally had it happen to me (a different oil chain and a different car) where the drain plug was not tightened. Luckily I was backing up out of my garage later that same day and saw the leak before any damage was done.
it's okay, your car wont die. it wont lock up.
past due oil life via the car's on board computer is okay. it wont die. it's perfectly fine. it will not lock up. it will still drive.
there's absolutely no problem going past due on an oil change. especially if you used synthetic oil. if you are worried, just get an oil change. change out that oil. that's all you have to do.
the color of oil doesnt mean anything. it can be golden when first poured into the engine, but black the next day. it doesnt harm the engine.
your friend who scared you into thinking your car will lock up is dumb. get a new friend.
if you are really worried, change the oil.
you should really change the oil every 12 months or when the car tells you to. about 5000-6000 miles.
if you ran the car with NO OIL, then that's a different story. It could lock up, because you starved the engine of oil
past due oil life via the car's on board computer is okay. it wont die. it's perfectly fine. it will not lock up. it will still drive.
there's absolutely no problem going past due on an oil change. especially if you used synthetic oil. if you are worried, just get an oil change. change out that oil. that's all you have to do.
the color of oil doesnt mean anything. it can be golden when first poured into the engine, but black the next day. it doesnt harm the engine.
your friend who scared you into thinking your car will lock up is dumb. get a new friend.
if you are really worried, change the oil.
you should really change the oil every 12 months or when the car tells you to. about 5000-6000 miles.
if you ran the car with NO OIL, then that's a different story. It could lock up, because you starved the engine of oil
Last edited by justnspace; Sep 27, 2020 at 04:18 PM.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
it's okay, your car wont die. it wont lock up.
past due oil life via the car's on board computer is okay. it wont die. it's perfectly fine. it will not lock up. it will still drive.
there's absolutely no problem going past due on an oil change. especially if you used synthetic oil. if you are worried, just get an oil change. change out that oil. that's all you have to do.
the color of oil doesnt mean anything. it can be golden when first poured into the engine, but black the next day. it doesnt harm the engine.
your friend who scared you into thinking your car will lock up is dumb. get a new friend.
if you are really worried, change the oil.
you should really change the oil every 12 months or when the car tells you to. about 5000-6000 miles.
past due oil life via the car's on board computer is okay. it wont die. it's perfectly fine. it will not lock up. it will still drive.
there's absolutely no problem going past due on an oil change. especially if you used synthetic oil. if you are worried, just get an oil change. change out that oil. that's all you have to do.
the color of oil doesnt mean anything. it can be golden when first poured into the engine, but black the next day. it doesnt harm the engine.
your friend who scared you into thinking your car will lock up is dumb. get a new friend.
if you are really worried, change the oil.
you should really change the oil every 12 months or when the car tells you to. about 5000-6000 miles.
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 159
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There's nowhere near enough detail in your posts for us to work out what's wrong. But forget about your oil - the only way oil can cause immediate engine damage is if there is none ! And you said the level looks fine on the dipstick.
Not sure why your mechanic friend thought the engine might have seized - are you saying it won't even turn over ? If so, you need to rule out the battery first...
Sounds to me like an alternator issue - you were driving along, no alternator output so your battery went nearly flat. Which explains why your engine shut off and now you can't start it.
I would start by replacing the battery, and if that gets you going then get a competent auto electrician to test your alternator.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Videos of Issue
Hey guys, I recorded a couple videos of the sound it's making and what happens when I try to turn the car are on. It sounds really bad, but the way I understand it is that if the engine's locked, the belt will try to move, but as you can see in the video, it does nothing.
Advanced
Joined: May 2009
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Seems u need a new battery. This is the same issue i have it before. Found out my negative terminal is loose at the battery and i can rotate it. My fixed on mine was to add a copper conduit and i never had anymore issue. I post the picture here before.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
How can that be? Like I said the car's electronics are working, so the battery has juice. The rapid clicking sounds mechanical (metal on metal). I tried jumping the car multiple times and nothing.
when the car is off, the multimeter should show 12.4 volts to the battery. anything less than 12.4 volts is a dead battery.
Please check the battery with a multimeter or have the battery checked at autozone.
the rapid clicking sound is the sound of the starter, trying to start the car.
if the battery does have 12.4 volts, then perhaps some of the power cables are corroded to the point where they can no longer have electricity flow through them. this applies to ground wires as well. check all power and ground wires for corrosion
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
to test the battery, one needs a multimeter to see what the voltage of the battery is..
when the car is off, the multimeter should show 12.4 volts to the battery. anything less than 12.4 volts is a dead battery.
Please check the battery with a multimeter or have the battery checked at autozone.
the rapid clicking sound is the sound of the starter, trying to start the car.
if the battery does have 12.4 volts, then perhaps some of the power cables are corroded to the point where they can no longer have electricity flow through them. this applies to ground wires as well. check all power and ground wires for corrosion
when the car is off, the multimeter should show 12.4 volts to the battery. anything less than 12.4 volts is a dead battery.
Please check the battery with a multimeter or have the battery checked at autozone.
the rapid clicking sound is the sound of the starter, trying to start the car.
if the battery does have 12.4 volts, then perhaps some of the power cables are corroded to the point where they can no longer have electricity flow through them. this applies to ground wires as well. check all power and ground wires for corrosion
I'm going to get one more person's opinion on Monday, and I'll have him check my battery.
take the battery out and head to autozone with it. or you can go to walmart or harbor freight and buy the cheapest multimeter for like 10-15 bucks
what makes the mechanics think it's a locked engine? did they pull the spark plugs and spin the crankshaft? what led up to the locked engine? did the timing belt snap? did you suck up water???
there are so many details missing.
what makes the mechanics think it's a locked engine? did they pull the spark plugs and spin the crankshaft? what led up to the locked engine? did the timing belt snap? did you suck up water???
there are so many details missing.
Last edited by justnspace; Oct 3, 2020 at 11:36 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2004
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Trust the experienced RL owners trying to help you here.
First, they're absolutely right: It's not the oil. You can change the oil and it won't hurt anything, but it's not the problem.
Second, these cars have a history of alternators that last less than the life of the car. I had a disabling failure just like yours, except mine displayed idiot lights in bizarre patterns for several minutes and then quit. It's a common problem in older Hondas and Acuras; I read a post in a Honda Odyssey thread that virtually duplicated my own. Did you observe any dash lights or abnormal behavior BEFORE the failure? That's telling.
Third, these cars also have a history of being extremely sensitive to a weakening battery. By "weakening," I mean so sensitive that it can make trouble even if the battery still tests as good. This may not be the problem (although if the battery was being unsupported by a failing alternator, it could be), but it's so often the cause of otherwise undiagnosable problems on RLs that it's a no-brainer thing to try.
Again, it's exceedingly unlikely that your engine "locked up." Stop even wasting attention on that possibility. I'd bet the ranch this is a problem with either the electrical system (most likely) or with fuel delivery.
First, they're absolutely right: It's not the oil. You can change the oil and it won't hurt anything, but it's not the problem.
Second, these cars have a history of alternators that last less than the life of the car. I had a disabling failure just like yours, except mine displayed idiot lights in bizarre patterns for several minutes and then quit. It's a common problem in older Hondas and Acuras; I read a post in a Honda Odyssey thread that virtually duplicated my own. Did you observe any dash lights or abnormal behavior BEFORE the failure? That's telling.
Third, these cars also have a history of being extremely sensitive to a weakening battery. By "weakening," I mean so sensitive that it can make trouble even if the battery still tests as good. This may not be the problem (although if the battery was being unsupported by a failing alternator, it could be), but it's so often the cause of otherwise undiagnosable problems on RLs that it's a no-brainer thing to try.
Again, it's exceedingly unlikely that your engine "locked up." Stop even wasting attention on that possibility. I'd bet the ranch this is a problem with either the electrical system (most likely) or with fuel delivery.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 339
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From: Ontario
I would take a 19mm socket and big ratchet and try to spin engine clockwise from crank bolt. If it spins and has some resistance then your engine is good. While you spin open oil cap and you will see the valve train moving.
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Trust the experienced RL owners trying to help you here.
First, they're absolutely right: It's not the oil. You can change the oil and it won't hurt anything, but it's not the problem.
Second, these cars have a history of alternators that last less than the life of the car. I had a disabling failure just like yours, except mine displayed idiot lights in bizarre patterns for several minutes and then quit. It's a common problem in older Hondas and Acuras; I read a post in a Honda Odyssey thread that virtually duplicated my own. Did you observe any dash lights or abnormal behavior BEFORE the failure? That's telling.
Third, these cars also have a history of being extremely sensitive to a weakening battery. By "weakening," I mean so sensitive that it can make trouble even if the battery still tests as good. This may not be the problem (although if the battery was being unsupported by a failing alternator, it could be), but it's so often the cause of otherwise undiagnosable problems on RLs that it's a no-brainer thing to try.
Again, it's exceedingly unlikely that your engine "locked up." Stop even wasting attention on that possibility. I'd bet the ranch this is a problem with either the electrical system (most likely) or with fuel delivery.
First, they're absolutely right: It's not the oil. You can change the oil and it won't hurt anything, but it's not the problem.
Second, these cars have a history of alternators that last less than the life of the car. I had a disabling failure just like yours, except mine displayed idiot lights in bizarre patterns for several minutes and then quit. It's a common problem in older Hondas and Acuras; I read a post in a Honda Odyssey thread that virtually duplicated my own. Did you observe any dash lights or abnormal behavior BEFORE the failure? That's telling.
Third, these cars also have a history of being extremely sensitive to a weakening battery. By "weakening," I mean so sensitive that it can make trouble even if the battery still tests as good. This may not be the problem (although if the battery was being unsupported by a failing alternator, it could be), but it's so often the cause of otherwise undiagnosable problems on RLs that it's a no-brainer thing to try.
Again, it's exceedingly unlikely that your engine "locked up." Stop even wasting attention on that possibility. I'd bet the ranch this is a problem with either the electrical system (most likely) or with fuel delivery.
I would stop thinking the engine locked up if two mechanics in a row hadn't told me the same thing.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
take the battery out and head to autozone with it. or you can go to walmart or harbor freight and buy the cheapest multimeter for like 10-15 bucks
what makes the mechanics think it's a locked engine? did they pull the spark plugs and spin the crankshaft? what led up to the locked engine? did the timing belt snap? did you suck up water???
there are so many details missing.
what makes the mechanics think it's a locked engine? did they pull the spark plugs and spin the crankshaft? what led up to the locked engine? did the timing belt snap? did you suck up water???
there are so many details missing.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Alright, it's official. The engine is locked. I had yet another mechanic come by and he told me the same thing. My battery did test low (about 10 something volts), but that wasn't the issue because he tried spinning the crankshaft manually from the front right footwell and got nothing. He also said my oil looked good. It didn't look contaminated or nothing, so he said he has no idea how the engine locked. Just terrible luck I guess.
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From: SoCal, CA
I'll tell you real quick, I locked up my engine once before..
I was playing mechanic and had swapped a set of heads. got it pretty much all done, except it was leaking oil... wanted to get it perfect...so I tore it all back down again.
when putting it back together, I forgot to install the keyway into the crank pulley. WHen I went to go start the car, the crankshaft spun, while keeping the heads at Top Dead center.
my dumbass was like...well, I'll just keep starting it till it rotates back...on the third try, the engine didnt want to move any more.
I was playing mechanic and had swapped a set of heads. got it pretty much all done, except it was leaking oil... wanted to get it perfect...so I tore it all back down again.
when putting it back together, I forgot to install the keyway into the crank pulley. WHen I went to go start the car, the crankshaft spun, while keeping the heads at Top Dead center.
my dumbass was like...well, I'll just keep starting it till it rotates back...on the third try, the engine didnt want to move any more.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: Indianapolis, IN
When you say suck up water, what do you mean? Water getting into the engine? Again, the oil is full. I highly doubt it was the timing belt because I got that done a year ago.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Had this same thing happen to me. It's the alternator, and possibly a parisitic drain.
This car has died on me countless times throughout the years I've owned it. The problems started happening about 8 years ago. I had the alternator and battery replaced for the first time around then. Since then, the car died on me many more times, but I just assumed it was due to leaving it idle for too long.
Earlier this year I was driving on the road when my car started throwing all the same error lights you described. The engine started shutting off and I lost power steering. Luckily I was able to pull off to a gas station. As soon as I parked, the car shut off. I tried jumping the battery with a battery pack. The car would run for a little bit but once I removed the battery, it would die again.
Once I eventually got the car home, I tried replacing the battery, still no luck. So I had a mobile repair tech come look at it. He told me the battery was completely dead and that I probably needed a new alternator. Got an OEM alternator installed and, voila, everything was good. That's when I learned about the parasitic drain from the HandsFreeLink module from this forum, so I disconnected it completely. Car ran like a beauty again.
Fast forward to yesterday (~4 months later), the car died again. I had left it idle for only about a week. I jump started the battery and was able to drive on it without any problems. Came home about 20 minutes later and left it parked overnight. This morning, I went to go start it, and again it was completely dead. I jumped it one more time, drove it around for 35 minutes, came back and parked it. Less than 20 minutes later, I decided to check the car again. It sounded like it was struggling to start the engine, but it did start. I haven't checked again yet, but it is probably dead.
Luckily the alternator replacement is under warranty so I'm having the mobile repair company come take another look at it this week. As soon as it's fixed, it's going bye bye.
This car has died on me countless times throughout the years I've owned it. The problems started happening about 8 years ago. I had the alternator and battery replaced for the first time around then. Since then, the car died on me many more times, but I just assumed it was due to leaving it idle for too long.
Earlier this year I was driving on the road when my car started throwing all the same error lights you described. The engine started shutting off and I lost power steering. Luckily I was able to pull off to a gas station. As soon as I parked, the car shut off. I tried jumping the battery with a battery pack. The car would run for a little bit but once I removed the battery, it would die again.
Once I eventually got the car home, I tried replacing the battery, still no luck. So I had a mobile repair tech come look at it. He told me the battery was completely dead and that I probably needed a new alternator. Got an OEM alternator installed and, voila, everything was good. That's when I learned about the parasitic drain from the HandsFreeLink module from this forum, so I disconnected it completely. Car ran like a beauty again.
Fast forward to yesterday (~4 months later), the car died again. I had left it idle for only about a week. I jump started the battery and was able to drive on it without any problems. Came home about 20 minutes later and left it parked overnight. This morning, I went to go start it, and again it was completely dead. I jumped it one more time, drove it around for 35 minutes, came back and parked it. Less than 20 minutes later, I decided to check the car again. It sounded like it was struggling to start the engine, but it did start. I haven't checked again yet, but it is probably dead.
Luckily the alternator replacement is under warranty so I'm having the mobile repair company come take another look at it this week. As soon as it's fixed, it's going bye bye.
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From: Indianapolis, IN
I'm looking in the owner's manual and reading about the "check engine oil level" light that I got. It says:
"The indicator should never come on when the engine is running. If it starts flashing or stays on, or if you see a "CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL" message on the multi-information display, the oil pressure has dropped very low or lost pressure. Serious engine damage is possible, and you should take immediate action."
...I'm really suspecting the worst at this point. I'm just so pissed off because no one's been able to explain to me WHY the engine locked. IDK why the car told me there was a problem with the oil when the oil level and quality is perfectly adequate. Why would this message show up if my oil was fine? How can the oil just "lose pressure?" I'm so confused.
"The indicator should never come on when the engine is running. If it starts flashing or stays on, or if you see a "CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL" message on the multi-information display, the oil pressure has dropped very low or lost pressure. Serious engine damage is possible, and you should take immediate action."
...I'm really suspecting the worst at this point. I'm just so pissed off because no one's been able to explain to me WHY the engine locked. IDK why the car told me there was a problem with the oil when the oil level and quality is perfectly adequate. Why would this message show up if my oil was fine? How can the oil just "lose pressure?" I'm so confused.
I'm looking in the owner's manual and reading about the "check engine oil level" light that I got. It says:
"The indicator should never come on when the engine is running. If it starts flashing or stays on, or if you see a "CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL" message on the multi-information display, the oil pressure has dropped very low or lost pressure. Serious engine damage is possible, and you should take immediate action."
...I'm really suspecting the worst at this point. I'm just so pissed off because no one's been able to explain to me WHY the engine locked. IDK why the car told me there was a problem with the oil when the oil level and quality is perfectly adequate. Why would this message show up if my oil was fine? How can the oil just "lose pressure?" I'm so confused.
"The indicator should never come on when the engine is running. If it starts flashing or stays on, or if you see a "CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL" message on the multi-information display, the oil pressure has dropped very low or lost pressure. Serious engine damage is possible, and you should take immediate action."
...I'm really suspecting the worst at this point. I'm just so pissed off because no one's been able to explain to me WHY the engine locked. IDK why the car told me there was a problem with the oil when the oil level and quality is perfectly adequate. Why would this message show up if my oil was fine? How can the oil just "lose pressure?" I'm so confused.
perhaps a shop changes your oil? perhaps they forgot to fill it back up??
perhaps the timing belt that you had changed was installed incorrectly...? perhaps the timing belt tensioner wasnt replaced and gave up?
perhaps someone drove through a puddle of water deep enough to get sucked up into the engine ?
perhaps the oil
if the engine is indeed locked up, the only way to figure out what happened to it is to tear it down and look for the damage. the damage will telll you what had happened to it.
Good luck, and hope it's just a battery, starter issue.
Last edited by justnspace; Oct 6, 2020 at 09:44 AM.
FkNo!TheyRdstroyinEvrting
Joined: Jan 2016
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Ooops.. just noticed i posted above and put no continuation to the 'this' 
here it is https://carbrain.com/blog/is-your-en...es-what-you-do
here it is https://carbrain.com/blog/is-your-en...es-what-you-do
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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From: Indianapolis, IN
UPDATE: I just had the engine replaced, cost me $1500. You wanna know what it was? Timing belt broke. I am at a loss for words because I literally had the timing belt changed a year ago and used what I thought was an OEM kit - turned out to be rubbish. I cheaped out and provided the parts to the auto shop so I wouldn't have to pay for the warranty, now it's come back to bite me in the ass. Lesson learned, get a warranty *sigh*.
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From: SoCal, CA
UPDATE: I just had the engine replaced, cost me $1500. You wanna know what it was? Timing belt broke. I am at a loss for words because I literally had the timing belt changed a year ago and used what I thought was an OEM kit - turned out to be rubbish. I cheaped out and provided the parts to the auto shop so I wouldn't have to pay for the warranty, now it's come back to bite me in the ass. Lesson learned, get a warranty *sigh*.
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From: SoCal, CA
Nice job @justnspace
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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From: Indianapolis, IN
Nice job @justnspace