My 2010 RL suddenly started having these codes pop up. It started last week as I was on the freeway going to work. Wasnt having any problems before that except having to change the starter due to car not starting 1 day and my brakes were lightly sqeeking so I had front brake pads changed. No problems other then those that I was aware of. I also didn't hear any unusual sounds or have the can do anything abnormal while driving prior to these lights coming on. My mechanic friend changed the 5th cylinder spark plug and coil. Still nothing changed and codes are still there. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT IS GOIN ON OR HAVE HAD THIS ISSUE THEMSELVES. What do I need done to have these lights go away and that will fix my car so it doesnt have these lights coming on dash.

 

I had to change a sensor in the left rear wheel well to extinguish this, and then it returned months later. Found the part on eBay. Do a search, there's a whole thread about this.

 

Can you tell me what you searched?? I have been searching and searching. I found something about misfiring 5th cylinoid so I had coil and spark plug changed. The mechanic said the spark plug and coil looked fine but changed it anyways. I find a bunch of stuff thats related to these codes but nothing that has worked or sounds like accurate info

When the issue came back for you after changing sensor what did you do to fix it then? I will have the mwchanic check sensor this morning at 8am. You help is so appreciated. Grateful for you and your advice.

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery - or a new one?

It can be as simple as that...they are very sensitive to a weak battery or high resistance on the terminals.

 

Yes I have done that. Have a newer battery put in too. Think I know the problem now. On my way to work the car had a funny smell of like burn I ng plastic. The new brakes werent working very good and drivers floorboard was hot under my feet. I googled and it came back w bad wheel barring. Does this make sense with the lights that came on?

 

Burning plastic

 

^
The picture above does not show the left side of the instrument panel.
With that said, if the malfunction indicator lamp 'engine' symbol (red arrows) , on the left side instrument panel, comes on & stays on, the engine computer is throwing diagnostic trouble codes for current potential issues with the car....
These DTC's need to be read, by a code reading device, and written down.
That way the codes can be googled or researched to TRY and determine what direction to go in possibly figuring out WHY your dash is lighting up like a Christmas tree.
If you are in an urban area that has an Autozone or Advance auto parts store nearby, they usually will read the codes (if any?) with the diagnostic equipment they have on hand for free.
Just make sure to write them down & research them in trying to determine what is happening.

 

There is the complete dash view

 

It appears that the engine is not running because the left most gauge (tachometer) is at 0 rpm.
If the yellow 'engine' symbol (green arrow) continues to illuminate AFTER starting & running the engine while driving the car, there is a high probability that the engine computer has thrown one or more DTC(s) that need to be read / recorded / researched as explained above.

 

You need to find a good mechanic to diagnose what's going on. You're guessing and are wasting your money telling mechanics to change parts.

 

OP, your only next step here is to get a scan tool and read the actual DTCs (trouble codes) from your car. Anything else is pissing in the wind.

If you're looking to invest in a scan tool, the Foxwell NT510 and Launch Creader Elite can both read Honda ABS codes (I own both). If not, most parts store employees can retrieve the codes for you as Zeta mentions above.

This makes literally zero sense. Bad wheel bearing would not cause any kind of smell, and there's no sensor in your car that can tell when a wheel bearing is going bad (unless you're getting codes for a bad magnetic encoder - Honda calls this pulsar failure and it's ABS codes 21, 22, 23, and 24 IIRC).

 

As others have said, you can't solve these problems with Google - you need to take your car to a skilled mechanic who can read the various fault codes, and then take the appropriate actions. There are literally thousands of possible failures - the fault code helps a skilled mechanic work out exactly what the problem is.

 

ORielys put it on their code reader and it came back 84-1 & 86-1. I would love to hire a certified mechanic to fix it. But I am a single mom w 3 kids and honestly cannot afford to do that. In a perfect world I would do that but dont have the money to afford 1.

 

^That's cool that O'Reilly's code scanner can read Honda ABS codes. Any chance they'd let you borrow it to do a steering angle sensor relearn? It's super easy and quick - just park the car with the wheels perfectly straight and run through the couple steps for it on the scan tool.

Perhaps you have a friend who works on cars that can help? Not sure what kind of certifications there are for real mechanics... I'm a certified dumbass with a bunch of wrenches and I work on my friends' cars for cheap.