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Changed all my cars fluids today......when I was removing the transmission drain plug I noticed what looked like a hole or a gap in a nearby pan. Im no mechanic so I cant tell u exactly what pan this is.....but certainly my guess is the transmission pan. What you are looking at in this pic or I should say where this gap is located is approx 7 to 10" towards the rear of the car from the tranny drain plug. Yes this seam is a little wet but nothing major...
For those who really know this car I am sure you will know what you are looking at in this pic........Please let me know what you think ....
Thanks
Changed all my cars fluids today......when I was removing the transmission drain plug I noticed what looked like a hole or a gap in a nearby pan. Im no mechanic so I cant tell u exactly what pan this is.....but certainly my guess is the transmission pan. What you are looking at in this pic or I should say where this gap is located is approx 7 to 10" towards the rear of the car from the tranny drain plug. Yes this seam is a little wet but nothing major...
For those who really know this car I am sure you will know what you are looking at in this pic........Please let me know what you think ....
Thanks
The plate in your picture, fastened to the block by that one center bolt (#7 on the link below) is called a torque converter case cover, #1 on the link below. If you were to remove
that center bolt and remove the plate you would probably see #2 & #3 .
Usually any oil leaking from behind that cover, out of that 'gap', is due to the #23 rear main seal or the #24 O-ring on the oil seal case assembly #4. It is a common leak, found over time, on Acura / Honda V6's
Thank you Zeta! I looked around and found other pics showing that gap which relieved me a bit. That said I am certain my car does have an oil leak or two and I would like to isolate them. I dont mind a drip here or there....but a persistent leak that just so happens to leak on something hot like an exhaust or the like creates that burnt oil smell which then gets sucked in through the AC vents and isnt good for you or in this case me
The bottom of that cover is a little wet but not too bad......What is the best way to determine if my leak is rear main seal.........or oil pump seal.........I spent a few hours under the car changing fluids and when my face was directly under the oil pan with my feet in the direction of the front license plate I could see the oil pan bolts on the bottom corner of the pan were dripping......it seems this is where the steadiest area of oil flow is for me....then it spreads from wind etc....
Last question.........are both of these seals or O rings major surgery? Do you know the cost of the rear main seal repair and the other which I believe was the oil pump seal? I wish there was a way to just let them drip occasionally but keep the drip from hitting my exhaust......maybe I could fab a shield of sorts..........If I spend $1000 on this car for an oil leak,,,,,its a bit of a budget buster.....would prefer that money go to 4 new tires.
What is the best way to determine if my leak is rear main seal.........or oil pump seal
The best way to determine if you have an oil leak is to 'hose down' the suspected areas with brake clean and wipe thoroughly with a rag to remove said oil. Then either watch for oil seepage as the car sits and idles, for tens of minutes, or to monitor suspected areas over time (one or two days after regular drives).
Originally Posted by JPV74
Last question.........are both of these seals or O rings major surgery?
I'm afraid so, both are BIG jobs. If your RL has an Oil pump leak you would need to replace #3 oil hole gasket and reseal #2 oil pump assembly and while #2 is out you may as well replace #22. Furthermore, the logic is if you are there, you may as well replace #11, #13 and even #26 on the spool valve assembly. The oil pan would also need resealing upon reinstallation.
Do you know the cost of the rear main seal repair and the other which I believe was the oil pump seal?
In short $,$$$.$$, if you have a rear main seal leak then the transmission would have to be dropped to get at the oil seal case assembly to replace the O-ring and seal I mentioned above, with a reseal of said assembly to the block and a subsequent reinstall of the tranny.
Now if your oil leak can be isolated to just the spool valve assembly and its seals, and not the oil pump and pan, then that job is a lot smaller. That's why, if possible, if you can 'pin-point' your leak, you may get 'lucky' and it could, possibly, turn out to be a smaller job. Get what I'm saying?
Thanks Zeta.....your obviously a pro so extra thanks for the insight. Ironically I have watched the vid u attached and many more during my Youtube University research.....
I will try to isolate the leak or leaks.....I am assuming brake clean wont deteriorate any gaskets like valve cover or other that it comes in contact with???? I only ask that because I am also trying to determine if my new PCV valve is leaking. SHES A LEAKER FOLKS......Stand BACK!!!!!
Sorry lost my mind for a second..........After watching all of the vids I see these Honda Acura's have several common areas that they leak from so in some cases buying an older one as a around town hooptie might not be a good idea......but most just let em leak I guess.
Well, let me revise 'hose down' with brake clean. It usually is not harmful as long as it does not remain on the surface. It will take off paint though, if left to soak. By quickly wiping, and the quick evaporation of the brake clean, harm can usually be avoided. Just protect your eyes, if laying on your back, while spraying that stuff and quickly wipe.
I looked at your PCV issue as well. My second generation CL-S six speed's PCV configuration is different from your 2G RL. The only thing I can say is to make sure the O-rings on the PCV have not been damaged or have 'rolled' on you when inserting back into its place. That may be the cause of that leak or looseness. Always 'lube' them with some oil, to facilitate easy insertion, be gentle when reinstalling.
Yeah, some of these honda J-series V6's leak; however, it's nothing compared to my mother's '01 Olds Alero 3.5V6. That's another story.
Yes sir......lubed the O rings like a champ and was gentle....they are seated....so not sure how they could leak.....might be valve cover right underneath. Will investigate further.
I am curious if the leak is from that gap, why is there oil above it?
I think you need to zoom out, and see if the leak is from above it.
Also, monitor your oil dipstick weekly, see if its missing any; and monitor you tranny oil dipstick in same interval. Logically, this should tell you which is leaking.
My money is still on the oil leak i have. It's common, and hard to localize. Gotta clean up the area with that spray, then lift the car and check just two days max after.
Zeta informed me of what the gap is.......it is normal.......I think I have a couple of leaks. I dont want to sink another 1500 into this car for a full reseal. My biggest issue with the oil leak is that the burning oil smell is not so great to inhale inside the car. Its not bad now...but will only get worse in time. Not to pleased with Acura right now. An engine should not need 3 major oil seals replaced at 113k to the tune of $1500 to $2000. The car runs great so its a shame to be in this pickle.
Local shop will do a de grease and dye test for $170 to isolate the leaks......If I had a lift I could do the same thing but i might just take it in for this service to get definitive news on where the all the earl is comin' from.....