Brakes
Just for looks really, unless you're taking it to the track. Theoretically, when it comes to normal street driving, having cross drilled rotors are going will actually decrease the rotor surface area for the pads to bite down on. Cross drilled/slotted rotors are only beneficial under conditions that require repeated threshold braking stops.
Yes, some people are going to come on here and swear up and down that their cross drilled rotors made a huge difference in their stopping distances blah blah blah. Brakes are kind of like tires in the sense that most people only replace them when needed. When you replace worn ass pads and rotors with brand new parts you are going to notice a difference regardless of quality, construction, etc.
Yes, some people are going to come on here and swear up and down that their cross drilled rotors made a huge difference in their stopping distances blah blah blah. Brakes are kind of like tires in the sense that most people only replace them when needed. When you replace worn ass pads and rotors with brand new parts you are going to notice a difference regardless of quality, construction, etc.
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Just picked up a set of front centrics on eBay, $38 each! I feel the brakes pulsating at hwy speeds so I'm thinking they are a little warped. Hope fronts are as easy as the rears were. I suspect they are, really just two bolts holding caliper on and the screw on the rotor.
Ill be doing brake fluid flush too, been about three years and pedal feels a little softer lately.
Fun weekend ahead!
On Monday, new tires going on, Versados!
Ill be doing brake fluid flush too, been about three years and pedal feels a little softer lately.
Fun weekend ahead!
On Monday, new tires going on, Versados!
Last edited by rlerman; Jan 17, 2014 at 11:44 AM.
ABSOLUTELY!! There are those who will tell you rotors don't warp. Before you change them, do a run out test with a measuring device. Then you probably can clean the rotors by running strongly abrasive pads for a few miles, then replace those with OEM pads and bed them in properly.
See here: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
Porsche guys deal with this all the time......just sayin'.
See here: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
Porsche guys deal with this all the time......just sayin'.
All done. There were some decent grooves on the insides of the rotors even though outside looked ok. Easy job, took about 2 hours, including brake fluid flush on all four corners, fluid was very dirty.
On the rotors, they seem pretty good to me. Markings match Centric specs and are etched into the sides. They seem authentic. We'll see. Car stops a bit better, but I bet more has to do with the fluid than rotors. I didn't replace the pads as they are relatively new.
On the rotors, they seem pretty good to me. Markings match Centric specs and are etched into the sides. They seem authentic. We'll see. Car stops a bit better, but I bet more has to do with the fluid than rotors. I didn't replace the pads as they are relatively new.
Did some highway driving today, all pulsating that I felt while brake at 60-75 is now completely gone. New rotors have made a huge difference. I went 95k mile on the originals, prob should have changed them 10k miles ago.
I went 90K on one set of original pads....possible if you take care of the car.
Those new rotors and pads need to be bedded in....see the article I posted. Not hard to do but nececssary. Just sayin'.
Those new rotors and pads need to be bedded in....see the article I posted. Not hard to do but nececssary. Just sayin'.
I think bedding is more critical for the pads than the disc, and mainly for race applications. I think it's less critical for the street as the compounds are different. Since I only replaced the discs, I'm not too concerned with bedding.
Thats a tough question, my car has done fantastic with the brake wear at over 100k on the original rotors. So I would probably go back OEM.
But there are a LOT of factors including the driving style.
But there are a LOT of factors including the driving style.
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