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My 07 RL is just hits 15k and the color of ATF is very very dark.
So I tred to drain ATF but I can not find drain plug under the car.
Where is the drain plug????
If you are worried about the ATF you need to take your car to the dealer and have them check it out under warranty. At 15K there is no need to change the ATF unless you have been towing a horse trailer or such, which is not recommended with an RL. I don't think there is a plug, you just drop the pan to get at the AT filter and then fill from above.
My 07 RL is just hits 15k and the color of ATF is very very dark.
So I tred to drain ATF but I can not find drain plug under the car.
Where is the drain plug????
Had a hard time finding this myself - expected it to be on the outside of the transmission case, facing the driver's side front wheel, as it is on Honda Accord transmissions - NOT!
On the RL, the transmission drain plug is on the inside of the transmission (toward the center of the car, when lying underneath and looking up) and toward the very front corner of the transmission case. It's recognizeable by being an Allen head type of bolt that take a 3/8" square drive key -- just use a 3/8" ratchet drive with a short extension and it comes right out.
You'll need to lower the transmission under tray, though, or you'll have a real mess -- the tray extends out under the drain plug, so if it's not lowered a lot of the fluid will run into it.
The refill is about 4 quarts, and you'll need to loosen and move the fuse box behind the battery for adequet access to the transmission filler hole, which is pretty well buried toward the rear, on top of the transmission
No, the RL transmission fluid and transfer case fluid is an MID item, code 3, I believe, and is a 60K type item. The SHAWD rear differential is on the 15K schedule, and the MID will tell you that with a 6 code, I believe. However, both the tranny and the rear differential uses Honda ATF fluid ATF Z-1. The transfer case is like 90w hypoid gear oil.
Take a look at the MDX and see if it is not the same. Since it is an SUV, it may well have different needs.
Honda's official statement is that it is normal for the fluid to turn dark brown. It is becoming very common now to not use color and odor as a guide for fluid condition. Honda, Chrysler, Hyundai and Kia have all issued statements stating that it fluid color and odor do not reflect the condition of the fluid.
The RL's transmission does not require a service until the 3 code pops up, which should be around the 120k mark.
Honda is also against transmission flushing, and just this month, issued a set of instructions in their ServiceNews describing a flush procedure (which involves doing three drain and refills and shifting through all of the gears five times between each drain and refill) in the event that it is needed do to transmission repair or unapproved fluid contamination.
No, the RL transmission fluid and transfer case fluid is an MID item, code 3, I believe, and is a 60K type item. The SHAWD rear differential is on the 15K schedule, and the MID will tell you that with a 6 code, I believe. However, both the tranny and the rear differential uses Honda ATF fluid ATF Z-1. The transfer case is like 90w hypoid gear oil.
Take a look at the MDX and see if it is not the same. Since it is an SUV, it may well have different needs.
I had the SHAWD rear differential fluid done on my car @ 12K miles.
Honda is also against transmission flushing, and just this month, issued a set of instructions in their ServiceNews describing a flush procedure (which involves doing three drain and refills and shifting through all of the gears five times between each drain and refill) in the event that it is needed do to transmission repair or unapproved fluid contamination.
Agreed. The 3x drain/refill procedure gives you 92-93%+ new trans fluid, mixed in with the old fluid.
The refill is about 4 quarts, and you'll need to loosen and move the fuse box behind the battery for adequet access to the transmission filler hole, which is pretty well buried toward the rear, on top of the transmission
Is it reachable when using a funnel fitted with a rubber hose?
Our 06 Odyssey's fill hole is right up against the firewall, behind the PS fluid reservoir and that's how I plan on refilling the transmission..
FWIW, I also bought a socket wrench extension to loosen the fill bolt....
Is it reachable when using a funnel fitted with a rubber hose?
Our 06 Odyssey's fill hole is right up against the firewall, behind the PS fluid reservoir and that's how I plan on refilling the transmission..
FWIW, I also bought a socket wrench extension to loosen the fill bolt....
With the fuse box shifted out of the way it's easily reached with just a long transmissinon fluid funnel.
The extension will make reaching the fill bolt a snap, but without moving the fuse box it's impossible (for anyone with normal sized arms and hands) to reach down to thread the fill bolt back into the transmission case after refilling.
Don't know about where the Odyssey's fill hole is located, but the RL's isn't up against the firewll -- it's just buried and impossible to reach with your hand without moving the fuse box.
From my experience, the 3/8" drive drain plug will be installed very, very tight from the factory. Using a normal 3/8" ratchet in an attempt to remove it will result in destroying the bolt.
You should use a breaker bar or a 1/2" drive ratchet (with a 3/8" adapter) on the drain bolt. On the fill bolt, use a 6-point socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar.
BTW, although I stated in an earlier post Honda's official recommendations, I personally recommend servicing the transmission at least every 30k as I am not too fond of Honda's fluid.
has any one ever use any thing else besides honda fluids on our rls?
Amsoil and most brands of multi-vehicle fluids work fine in Honda automatics.
Theoretically, it is impossible to formulate a multi-vehicle fluid that works well in every single application due to the many differences between each fluid type. As they said, jack of all trades, master of none.
However, in order for one to expose that weakness of a multi-vehicle fluid, you would have to run it through the same extreme test that OEMs run their OE fluid through in their validation program. The average user is unlikely to operate their vehicle under those conditions, therefore, you almost never hear of people having issues with the multi-vehicle fluids.
Some of these multi-vehicle fluids are also built to withstand heat better than the Honda fluid due to the requirements of other fluid specs, so it's possible that some multi-vehicle fluids can be considered an upgrade to the Honda fluid.
"The transmission drain plug is on the inside of the transmission" is wrong.
Just like other Honda Transmission plugs, it is on the out side of the transmission but little bit high.
When I removed driver's side tire, it was easy to detect the drain plug.
The plug on the inside of the transmission is needed 90w hypoid gear oil. Not ATF-Z1
When I drained both ATF-Z1s, there was big difference between transmission fluid and rear differential fluid. The transmission fluid was dark and ordored, and rear differential fluid was clear pink and no odor.
However,,,,
Honda recommand to drain and refill rear differential fluid every 12k.
Honda recommand to drain and refill transmission fluid every 60k.
Believe it or not, auto companies want their transmissions suddenly be broken just over 100k miles.
happysanta:
Beg to differ on the correct location of the ATF drain plug. There is a plug on the wheel well side of the transmission, but higher up than the bottom of the transmission sump.
The Acura shop manual clearly illustrates that the plug on the inside of the transmission (toward its front) is the correct plug for draining the ATF. The plug you removed would not drain the transmission sump as completely as the inside plug.
Suggest you check again for the correct plug, if you're interested in a complete change of ATF.
The hyphoid gear housing drain plug and filler hole are completeley separate from the automatic transmission -- on an auxialliary housing attached to the rear of the transmission. Recognizable by the rear drive shaft connected to it.
Do you believe ATF Z1 will last over 100k or 6 years ?
Emm~~ If you are correct, it's GREAT.
Yes, it will.
If you look at the reason for nearly all of the Honda transmission failures over the last five years, the cause of failure was unrelated to the fluid type/condition.
All of the failures were caused by poorly designed parts, none of it was caused by user maintenance practices. The fluid lasts a very long time, it's just that it will discolor badly and it is normal. Just like Chrysler's +4 and Kia's SPIII.
Does anyone know exactly how much ATF should be replaced after draining the transmission fluid on a 2005 Acura RL? (this is a one time drain and fill) On my '04, it was a little more than 3 qts. Also, when you refill the transmission fluid, I am assuming you can refill it through the transmission dip stick? Thanks for your help!
2006 owner's manual, page 368 indicates that the engine should be at normal operating temperature (e.g. on and warmed up).
In the 2005 online owners manual, page 310, step 1 says to park on level ground and shut off the engine. If car is running, you will get a dipstick that reads overfilled. I believe this has always been the procedure for Honda/Acura transmissions- at least the 3 I have previously owned.
I recently purchased an 05 RL myself. Like Drolds72 mentioned, in most vehicles if you check the dipstick while the car is cold it will look overfilled but when the car is running and the fluid is in the gears, it will be the proper reading.
I do have two questions regarding this topic and hope you folks who have had the experience comment on this:
1. Fluid type: ATF -Z1 is the "recommended" fluid for the RL's tranny but has anyone done drain the refills with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATFs? Any comments on the shift quality after moving to Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF...and I am reading the manual (no Dexron fluid)-- any potential negative side effects of mixing the Honda ATF -Z1 fluids with the Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF?
2. My car has 77K (not sure if there has been a drain and refill with prior owner) but the fluid does look brown-- and I have been used to the reddish color ATF fluids in other cars...is this normal for the Honda ATF Z1 fluids?
I just completed a drain and fill on my 2005 RL's transmission. It was easy to do (better than paying the dealer over $100. I removed about 3 clips from the plastic guard under the vehicle. This gave me access to the drain plug. I duct taped a zip loc bag on top of plastic guard so transmission fluid would run over bag into my catch pan (worked well). The magnetic drain plug had a decent amount of metal shavings on it. (probably more than my 04 RL) I was going to try to fill through the dipstick with a home made funnel, but then I decided to use the filler bolt. I could access it using a long extension and a movable joint. I used a long transmission funnel to fill 2.9Qts of Acura/Honda fluid. When I took the car out, it definately was shifting smoother. My 4th-3rd downshift was pretty rough, but not anymore. The car just hit 70k miles.
I will only use Honda/Acura transmission fluid! Most of the reading I have done suggests that Hondas are very particular about their fluids... especially the transmission. However, I do use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. I ran my 04RL to 130K with Mobil 1 and it ran like new.
I am just about to do a drain and fill...but for the life of me, I Can not find the drain plug...read the location from happy santa-- just wondering-- do I need to DROP the plastic cover underneath the car? And is the plug facing outwards (toward the driver side wheel?) or does it point front to back? I was under the car but I have a feeling I may need to drop the plastic cover? any tips most appreciated!!
So I have 79k on my '05 RL and an A13 code. I am going to to do the engine oil, and tranny fluid change. I asked the dealer about the rear case and they said that they would check it and decide if I brought it to them. Seemed like a sketchy response. What's teh mechanic going to do open the plug and rub some inbetween his fingers? I am going to do the other two myself. Should I do the rear case as well now at 79k miles? Anybody done it? easy hard? tricks to know?
With the tranny change should I consider a flush and filter change too? When is that commonly done?
Thanks for any quick responses. I want to get this done tonight if possible.
If by flush you mean 3x3 fill and drain flush, it may be worth it depending on how old the fluid is. NEVER use any kind of pump to flush a Honda transmission. The 3x3 seems like a waste of oil to me, though. I think changing the fluid more frequently would be the better option.
I'm not sure what you mean by the rear case... differential maybe?
Can anybody confirm? I have a short window of opportunity to work on it tonight and won't have a way to get out to the store once I start. My set doesn't have an 11mm if that is it, and I should run out now and get what I need.
Thanks,
Adam
What is the allen key size for the tranny plug? 10mm?
Is there a fill for the tranny fluid (where) or is the dipstick the only way?
Its not an allen key. you can use a 3/8" extension in the head of the bolt. I had to use a breaker bar the first time on it, and the transfer case plugs- they were extremely tight from the factory.
The fill plug is under and behind the fuse box on the driverside. I used a long extension and a swivel to get it out, then a piece of hose on a funnel to fill. Not sure how hard it would have been just to move box out of way.
Last edited by drolds72; May 27, 2011 at 10:02 AM.
Reason: .
Resurrecting an older thread for confirmation on the drain plug location. Until now I've normally had the dealer change my trans fluid, but I'm going to do it myself from now on, starting with a 3x3.
I've read several posts, and the shop manuals, with no direct answer. The written description above, of the drain location, makes it even more confusing compared to where I think I found it.
""The transmission drain plug is on the inside of the transmission" is wrong.
Just like other Honda Transmission plugs, it is on the out side of the transmission but little bit high."
When I slide under the center of the car and look up I see three very similar looking 3/8" drain plugs nearby each other. I'm fairly certain two are transfer case, and the most forward is the trans drain plug. Just looking for confirmation.
Do I have the tranny drain plug highlighted correctly in the photo below?
Yes, I believe so. I have always explained it as, "about 12 inches from the front of the car, just to the driver's side of center line, facing the passenger wheel." You have to remove, pull back, or cut the splash shield, so that looks right.
Thanks. That was it.
I ran out of time tonight, only managed a single drain and fill this time. Learned the hard way though. I hadn't quite cut back enough of the shield from under the bolt itself. As the drain slowed to trickle, it landed on the shield causing it to drool out some of the other nearby holes. Thankfully by then it was almost done draining. I'll do a couple more drain and fills over the weekend.
A few of my own "lessons learned" that someone else may benefit from:
Using the trans fill bolt is actually easy IMO. The hard part was cracking it open the first time. You'll need a long breaker bar, and even then a metal pipe over that for extra leverage will make even shorter work of cracking it open. Once it's cracked, you can switch to a regular 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet - whichever you're using. You'll want a 10" extension bar and a swivel add-on to make it easier for the socket to seat on to the bolt.
Move the fuse box out of the way. It won't move far, but enough to get your hand through. It's held in place by two bolts and a clip on one side. Very easy to move.
The first time you remove the drain plug the fluid will shoot straight out a good 6-8 inches, so be ready. It will then quickly subside to a near straight down flow. A large drain basin is the best choice.
You can remove or pull back the plastic shield if you want, or you can cut it back to where the drain plug is, as I show in the image above. Just be sure to cut back at least two inches under the drain bolt itself, towards the driver tire. Make sure the cutout is also wide enough so your ratchet can get in to the plug without clearance problems. I saw many of the 2009 and newer model TL's already had this cut out from the factory, so Acura got the hint.
Have your new crush washers ready to go.
Get the front of the car lifted as high as you can and set back down on jack stands. Same for the rear. I use a spare piece of 2x12x36 pressure treated as a base for my slim profile floor jack. It still makes it under the front of the car and helps get that extra inch and half of lift. Very handy when you're working under the car and you're not exactly a small person :-)
ATF drain plug ???
