Well after not unlocking my car for a whole month to save my windows (car got broken into twice) i noticed that my driver door handle won't unlock anymore but it locks. My passenger door handle works fine. Is there a reset that I need to do or? This is all happened when I stopped unlocking my car...weird

 

How did you drive your car without unlocking it? I'm guessing you also stopped locking it?

 

I'd move before you fix the handle.

 

i left my car unlocked over night. then when I would go out, I would get inside and start it then drive. I don't get what you are trying to say?

 

I've already moved and now have a garage

 

Because you said "not unlocking it for a month" when what you meant was "no LOCKING it for a month" meaning you did not have to unlock the car.

 

You could always just start with a batter cable pull/reset and start over.

 

If he didn't lock it, he didn't unlock it either. While not as straight forward, it's still accurate.

 

Sorry English is my second language. But yes, instead of locking my car for the night, I just left it unlocked so my Windows don't get busted.

 

Makes sense. When I was a valet, I was told never to lock a soft-top Jeep. Customers would rather have someone open the door to steal whatever's inside than have someone cut into the soft-top and have to replace it. Not that I worked near anywhere shady, it was just good general advice.

 

You don't have to apologize to the assholes here.









Myself included.

 

Yeah no apologies needed.

 

As for the topic, door handle issues on an RL?

Never heard of such a thing.

 

So what I'm trying to get at is if there was a reset that i had to do or my handle is busted. Reason I thought if there was a reset because the dimple on the handle to lock the car still worked so I didn't think it was broken yet

 

The only reset for the handle is to do a battery cable reset.

 

There are two different sensors that work like capacitors if I understand correctly. Either one could potentially go out and not affect the other.

I hope your reset works though.

 

sorry...a battery cable reset is removing negative wire for 15 mins correct? ill try this out tomorrow and see if that works.

 

The most thorough solution is disconnecting the + and connecting it to the - for 15 min. The order of that is very important. Visa versa is not the same.

 

Sounds dangerous to me. Why would you want to do that? Drain the capacitors or something?

 

The only possible dangerous thing is to connect the + and - while the battery is connected, but yes, this is the fastest way to drain the capacitors.

Capacitors have some inherent amount of internal resistance that will cause leakage and allow them to slowly drain once the 12V is removed, hence waiting 15 min. However, simply applying 0V to the 12V rail will do this in a hurry and insure that they get completely drained. Once again. applying 12V to the 0V rail is not the same and could be dangerous.

The safest way to avoid problems would be to disconnect both cables from the battery and then do this.

 

Are you saying connect the positive lead to the negative lead (grounding the positive lead), without either touching the battery? That's how I'd do it, and I think that's what you're describing. Just wanted to be clear.

 

Yes, that is the most fail-proof way to do it.

You could also just disconnect the + and ground it, same thing. However, disconnecting both takes out the guessing if you happen to forget.

 

I have intermitten driver door issues. Like sometimes, if I pull the handle or swipe the dimple to open it just keeps locking itself, use the FOB to unlock, then it is fine after that. Happens rarely for me, but is annoying nontheless!

 

the shorting the terminals works great to discharge caps (of significant capacity, not ceramics) that are not behind a diode

won't find many of them like this unfortunately,

the half-hour disconnect will get most of the job done