robr

So, my 2005 RL hasn't been blowing as cold as it used to. It's still working reasonably enough when it's 70-80 out, but if it gets above that, it doesn't cool down the car all that well. Therefore, it's likely low on refrigerant, and perhaps may even be leaking.

As this is a relatively new car to me (bought in Nov or Dec 2009), my shop hasn't worked on it. I called for a recharge quote and was told $280. Say what?!? Called another local shop, $190. Huh?!?

What's with these prices? Last time I recharged at a shop (granted, 8 years ago) it cost me $40 for R-134a or $150 for my R-12 vehicle that I didn't want to convert. I figure $50 is cheap enough to recharge and have a leak check with dye, but not $190. Is there something special about the RL, or am I (as I suspect) just being gouged here.

Chas2

Maybe someone can confirm this...

I suspect that some of the pricing you see is because R-134a is being handled the same way as R-12 has been, with elaborate capture systems. This may be reflective of R-134a has become a global warming villain, much as R-12 had before it had become an ozone layer depletion villain. R-134a apparently has done its job as a low ozone layer depleting refrigerant, but while R-134a's has a low Ozone Depletion Potential (ODP), it has a high Global Warming Potential (GWP). In other words, R-134a has an unwanted side effect because it contributes significantly to global warming, not really on the radar screen back in the 80's and early 90's when R-134a became the substitute for R-12.

As pressure grows to eliminate hydro fluoro carbon (HFC) refrigerants such as R-134a, and R-12 before it, prices will increase as supply gets constrained. You can still get R12, it just not being manufactured anymore. All R-12 today is reclaimed. I see the same thing happening to R-134a. As an aside, R-134a will no longer be allowed for use in automotive air conditioning systems in the EU as of 2011, and I expect the US to follow suit with a replacement such as DuPont and Honeywell's HFO-1234yf (a Hydro Fluoro Olefin compound). Back in 2009, the EPA was proposing to replace R-134a as a common refrigerant.

rlerman

are you sure it's a re-charge you need? The AC system is a sealed system so if you are low, you have a leak somewhere. If you don't trace the leak, you could be doing the same thing a year or less from now. A professional shop can test the pressure, evacuate the system, then refill it. But before doing that, you should know that there is a TSB on the 05 RL's for a bad field coil, might want to check that first before attempting to re-fill.

It's been in the mid-90s here tin NJ he past few days and my AC blows so cold set on 70, I have to turn it up to 72-73. Best AC in any car I have ever had.

Professor

Many moons ago, I used to work at AutoShack (now AutoZone), and we'd run summer time specials on R12 for 99 cents a can. We used to waste and play with cases of this stuff, pouring on shirts, etc.

If I only knew that stuff was gold... A case back then would have only cost $24 bucks and today it'd be worth thousands.

scottj

Robr, have you checked your cabin air filter? I just changed mine in my '05 and the airflow is vastly improved. I ask because I was wondering if I might be low on coolant, too.

robr

I actually popped back in yesterday (but couldn't post for some reason) to say I replaced the cabin filter and things improved substantially, and then saw this post. Not sure it's perfect but definitely far better. $17 instead of $200+.

nismo240gt

I had the same issue robr and when I brought my car in, my freon levels were perfectly fine. The issues only got worse from here. Check out the following thread - there seem to be a few people with similar AC issues.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779564

HondaV10

Hi Chas

Actually, R-134A has a lower ODP and GWP than R-12.

Ozone Depletion Potential
R-134a: 0.0
R-12: 1.0

Global Warming Potential
R-134a: Less than 0.3
R-12: 3

So it was a vast improvement over R-12 in both ODP and GWP.

--Conrad

motegi

You can recharge the R-134a yourself with a DIY kit. The kit usually runs $20-$25 at any auto parts store and includes a hose to connect to the low pressure refrigerant port on the AC system as well as a pressure guage and a valve for the refrigerant can. The cans of refrigerant are only $6-$8 each and can be found nearly anywhere (WalMart, AutoZone, PepBoys, grocery store). You may need 2 cans.

The entire process takes all of 10-15 minutes and is simple enough for anyone to do.

I have a kit and have used it many times on my other cars as well as friends cars with great success.

This does not fix any small leaks that may be present but will get the system back up and running.

Chas2

Yes, you are correct; sorry if I was unclear, but the GWP of R134a is enough, when combined with its widespread usage so that they are switching to the Hydro Fluoro Olefins, as I understand it anyway...but I suspect no one really cares here...it was just a speculative answer as to why the recharge is so costly. It could, of course, just be automotive services rip off, but I do believe there is a reclamation unit involved, and you can't just release it, so it has to go to a third party re-processor.

sleepinxlionhart

I THINK I have the same problem. I just feel like the AC can work better in my car. I took it to the dealers about it, and they told me that everything was running okay, in that the electric charge(?) was normal and it was blowing at a cool 43 degrees. Pretty much told me it's most likely because the car's black and it takes longer for it to cool down.

phishfood

Last time I was at the dealer I had mine done, cost $90 for evac & refill. Car is 2006 just turned 4 years old.

Temp at vents went down from ~43 to ~39 and you can tell a difference.

Maybe I will get a new cabin filter and drop it in.

Deadhorse

A/C Information, if you need to know what size A/C to buy for your house:
1000 BTU's will cool a BUT as big as a TUB. It's 98 degrees here in North Carolina. We need a little humor.