I've tried searching the forum but the search feature doesn't seem to be doing what the definition would suggest.

I'm at 40% oil and I was wondering what was used.

Synthetic or regular?

I think Acura dealer was using regular with my TL as the total with filter and work came out in the $40s.

Is there any improvement by using synthetic?

Currently, my best highway trips are 22MPG on average with all my other driving in New York City is 12mpg...don't laugh, I am not towing a dozen hummers.

 

I thought the manual said it required synthetic. I may be wrong though.

 

pg 458 of manual says "use premium grade 5W-20 detergent oil displaying the API Certification Seal".

What's detergent, regular or synthetic?

 

I would use regular oil. I use castrol 5-30 in my 08 tsx.

 

It takes 5W20 regular oil don't put any other!!! I use mobil if you can't get that valvoline. And change you pvc valve every 4 oil changes. If you don't it will burn oil

 

Doesn't the TSX take 5W20 also??

 

rtr, why car will burn oil if You don't change pvc valve? I know You chave to change at some point, but every 4 oil changes? Tx.

 

If its true, we would have some problems with a lot of our cars, so I doubt it.

 

so my question remains, is there any sense in using or asking for synthetic oil?

And what exactly is premium detergent?

 

If you want your car to burn oil then ask for synthetic !! They don't even make a 5W20 in synthetic. Premium oil is a top brand of regular oil as stated above. If you are racing your car then you could use synthetic.

 

The pcv valve is very important and always over looked! It depresueizes the head on exceleration so when your pcv gets old it creates presure in the head in turn will slow your car down and ware your valve seals presure in the head is bad. On my turbo car it makes even more diffrence i got 15whp from moding my pcv valve to suck more.

 

I'm not racing my RL so I guess I will stick to whatever the dealer puts in. Thanks.

 

Virtually all API certified oils are detergent oils, whether regular or synthetic. Detergents are used to suspend engine oil contaminants which are by products of combustion, and prevent the contaminants from forming sludge. Any current API Certified Oil SM, SL, SJ or SH will do.

Read more about it in the current API engine oil publication:

API 1509, 16th Edition (April 2007) - Now with Addendum I, March 2008

http://www.api.org/certifications/en...forprint-2.pdf


From the manual,

Recommended Engine Oil
Oil is major contributor to your
engine’s performance and longevity.
Always use a premium-grade
detergent oil displaying the API
Certification Seal. This seal indicates
the oil is energy conserving and that
it meets the American Petroleum
Institute’s latest requirements.

Honda Motor Oil is the preferred
5W-20 lubricant for your vehicle. It is
highly recommended that you use
Honda Motor Oil in your vehicle for
optimum engine protection. Make
sure the API Certification Seal says
‘‘For Gasoline Engines.’’

The oil viscosity or weight is
provided on the container’s label.
5W-20 oil is formulated for yearround
protection of your vehicle to
improve cold weather starting and
fuel economy.

Synthetic Oil
You may use a synthetic motor oil if
it meets the same requirements
given for a conventional motor oil: it
displays the API Certification Seal,
and it is the proper weight. You must
follow the oil and filter change
intervals given on the maintenance
schedule

Parenthetically, while synthetic oils may not break down quickly in comparison to regular non synthetic oils, synthetics still depend on detergents to dissolve and hold contaminants in suspension. Synthetics may not break down as far as lubricity is concerned, but they have a finite ability to hold contaminants in suspension as determined by the detergent level. Once that threshold is passed, synthetics will start to sludge because contaminants fall out of suspension, or actually never go into suspension. There are other issues involved in why a synthetic is better at higher operating temps, etc, but that does not factor into the detergent part of the discussion.

So the post above is correct, you are not racing the RL, so whatever the dealer puts in is fine.

 

And stick to the manufacturer recommended oil change interval for the first refill unless you are into serious severe operation duty cycles. See the August 2006 Acura Service News on the factory fill having extra moly in it.

 

I'm at 4,500 mi with oil life at 30%. When the car wills me to change oil...that's when it will happen.

 

Been happy using synthetic oil for the last 30,000 miles - either Valvoline or Quaker State. And yes, they do make them in 5W-20. The RL is running just fine and I probably will not go back to regular oil.

 

I was actually trying to figure out if there are any benefits to usingn synthetic oil. Performance gains or maybe better fuel consumption?

Something to justify the higher price tag basically.

 

The big advantage to synthetic oil is that it will not break down at very high temps, such as racing or if you have a turbo. If you change your oil often enough regular oil is all you will ever need, people have gotten up to 1 million miles on regular oil with the original motor. If you want to do something good for your car change the oil a bit more than the system recommends, I do mine at 30%. Honda says to go to 0% but I play on the side that the system analysis is not perfect.

 

I usually change mine around 10-15%. I don't race nor have I found a place that would put a turbo on it :-)

 

I would not go with synthetic unless directed to. Our 2008 Acura RDX requires synthetic due to higher pressure and/or engine heat, and tends to go through oil a lot faster (4,000 mile intervals) than my 2004 TL and 2005 RL (7,000 - 8,000 according to the MFD).

As a point of reference, my 1998 Audi A4 2.8 did not require synthetic, but I switched after cracking my oil pan (and thereby draining my oil in my driveway).

At ~80,000 miles, I learned that the additional "stress" of synthetic (or that is - the oil pressure of synthetic as filled up to the natural/dino-juice level) caused my cylinder head to crack (an $850 repair).

So if you go with synthetic, you should monitor what's going on in the engine to avoid any damage down the road.

(My 2009 GT-R has real-time oil level, temperature, and pressure status, which is nice to have when racing).

 

I think I am now skeered enough not to go with synthetic, thanks!

 

Oh, and natural oil is cheaper :-)

 

GT-R, nice car, don't use the launch mode or you will be screwed.

 

Well now you have i will put a turbo on mine when it hits 180000km mite be a while but it will be crazy gt28 71r would be nice

 

Synthetic has better cold temp flow characteristics. Obviously not a problem south of the Mason Dixon line, but I am glad to be running Mobil 1 during the several days that it has been below -15 in the morning. (very balmy 0 as I type this)

 

You're kidding right?

I've been using synthetic in all my cars since 1994 and my parents cars since 1994 and none (about 12+ cars) have burned oil.

As for "They don't even make a synthetic 5w-20", check out the links below..

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_5W-20.aspx

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1

http://pennzoil.com/products.html#Platinum

 

Choice is yours. You've spent a good chunk of change on a very nice car. If it was me and I plan to keep the car, I'd go with a synthetic. Synthetic gives you better cold (winter) startup protection, will not sludge up as easily, will not breakdown in viscosity as easily, is able to withstand extreme heat far better than regular oil, and will give you peace of mind with longer oil change intervals (but since you're under warranty, follow the MID).

Check out this link regarding cold pouring of oil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKtxqf5OFTU

If you're interested, check out BITOG. Great website about engine oil.

 

I believe the RDX requires synthetic due to the turbocharger, not engine heat or higher pressure. Any turbocharger will cook regular oil, especially if the engine isn't idled for at 30 seconds to 1 minute prior to shutdown.

If you switched to synthetic in your 98 Audi, was it done by a dealer or you? VW, Audi's parent company required synthetic, if my memory is correct, in all their engines after they had problems with sludge and extended oil change intervals. Now, VW has requirements, VW502.00, VW503.00, etc. specs for VW approved only oils. Most/all of those oils are synthetic.

Also, synthetic does not cause additional "stress" on your engine, increased oil pressure as you said, causing your cylinder head to crack. Incorrect oil viscosity may cause low flow and increased back pressure, synthetic or regular. Your Audi's engine probably had problems already...