I have been a loyal Mobil 1 full synthetic guy since I had my first car as my dad was always a Mobil 1 user. I have been tempted over the years to switch to others, Royal Purple and Amsoil being the two main temptations. Anyways I've been doing a bit of research lately and finally made the switch to Amsoil this time. I went on their website and put in the RL's info and the option that they told me to use was 0W-20. Just got my case in the mail today and realized our oil cap says 5W-20, what gives? I imagine the Amsoil guys know what they are talking about no?

 

This is what comes up on their website and I choose the "Maximum Performance" naturally.

Engine Oil
Grade 1......API* Maximum Performance 100% Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (ASMQT) 100% Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (ASMQT)
Drain Interval Information

Performance Plus XL 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLMQT) XL 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil (XLMQT)
Drain Interval Information

Performance Synthetic 5W20 OE Motor Oil (OEMQT) Synthetic 5W20 OE Motor Oil (OEMQT)
Drain Interval Information

All TEMPS......5W-20
Automatic Transmission,MJBA......SLF [1]
Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
Differential, Rear Hypoid Chamber......SLF [1]
All TEMPS......
Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
Differential, Rear Clutch Chamber......SLF [1]
All TEMPS......
Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATFQT)
Transfer Case,......GL-4
Synthetic Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube (75W-90) API GL-4 (MTGQT)
Transfer Case,......GL-5
SAE 80W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube (AGLQT)
SEVERE GEAR 75W-90 Synthetic EP Lubricant (SVGQT)
75W-90 Synthetic Long Life Gear Lube (FGRQT)
Fluids
Power Steering Fluid......PS
Power Steering Fluid (PSFCN)
Brake Fluid......HB
AMSOIL Brake Fluid DOT-3 (BF3SN)
Clutch Fluid......
[1] Honda ATF-Z1 Automatic Transmission Fluid, Part no.
08200-9001 or equivalent

 

u can use 0w-20 not a big difference, u might even get better gas mileage.

 

Cool thanks. I'll let you guys know if I notice any difference next week after I get the change.

 

You should be okay. We have an 06 Odyssey and it's also spec'd for 5w-20. I've been using Mobil1 0w-20 for the past 2 years without issues.

The only thing is I thought (key word is thought) that the valve train got a little noisier with the 0w-20. So I might go back to Mobil1 5w-20 during the summer time to see if the valve train gets quieter.

 

yea you should never change viscosity. And also if you run synthetic you should run 5-30 because it runs thinner than convectional oil's giving you some valve noise. I have tested every oil and i never use synthetic because its not real and it is not made for stop and go driving! and the 0 of the 0-20 is just start up thickness doing nothing for mileage. If the car was meant for synthetic then it would say on the cap or Acura would have used it.

 

 

I disagree with you on everything except "the 0 of the 0-20 is just startup thickness doing nothing for mileage" and "if the car was meant for synthetic then it would say on the cap or Acura would have used it."

How does a Xw-30 dino "run thinner" than a Xw-30 synthetic? The second number, in this case "30", represents the viscosity of the oil at 100 degrees Celsius. If the SAE gives both oils a "30" how is the dino thinner? I'll give you the fact that the SAE gives you a range of viscosity so you can have a "thin" 30 weight oil but you can have a "30" weight from one dino manufacturer have a different viscosity from another dino manufacturer.

As for valve train noise, I own a G35. Infiniti recommends 5w-30. I use Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (German Castrol), which is a very thick (almost 40 weight) oil. The engine is very smooth and quiet. I ran my G for 1 summer with Mobil1 5w-30 and it seemed noisier. As a matter of fact, I believe Nissan recommends it's Ester based oil for the 370Z or the G37's due to valve train noise.

Synthetic oil is made for stop and go driving, and then some more! How is synthetic "not real"?

As for "if the car was meant for synthetic then it would say on the cap or Acura would have used it.", Acura is a company in the business of making money. If a dino meets the spec, yes they would use dino. Historically speaking, it appears that most Honda engines are easy on oil, with the exception of the RDX which spec's a synthetic. So Honda will use what they can to keep costs down. No reason to raise the costs and make it more expensive for the customer to maintain the vehicles, especially in the drive to market cars as low maintenance. HOWEVER, synthetic is superior by far to dino for a given application in most, if not all applications.

 

I have to say I respectfully disagree RTR. Read through the thread on the link below.

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...+synthetic+oil

 

When I had an Accord which called for 5w20, I used a 0w20 for about 3-4 oil changes and noticed pronounced valve noise that progressed. I didn't like how the car ran or sounded so I switched back to 5w20 and it sounded and felt just find.

The way I see it is this... there are engineers who have researched and are paid by Honda or any other Car company to make sure that cars are running properly. This means that the oil weight chosen to be used in a particular series of motors is paired the right way with the way the pistons and valve movement. This pairing also achieves the maximum efficiency from the motor.

My .02

 

You make a sound point, but extreme conditions (driving or weather) also dictate optimal oil viscosity... In "normal" conditions, I'm with you. Let the engineers make these decisions.

OP, out of curiosity what were the specific reasons you switched from Mobil 1 to Amsoil? Better additives?

 

For the first time, i switched to 0w-30 Mobil 1 oil. I've always put 5w-20 Castrol synthetic in the RL, but since the weather is getting cooler and i am planning multiple trips to the mountains this winter, i decided to go to 0w-30. So far, the engine sounds great. It is quieter than what it used to be with the 5w-20 Castrol synthetic oil. Maybe it is my imagination, but i do not hear any valve noise. It is very smooth.

I am guessing, rtr meant that a lot of the newer 'synthetic' oils are not actually true synthetic oils. Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline and many other common brands were tested and it became clear that they are more of a synthetic "blend" than pure synthetics. Some call them "Hydrocracked Dyno" oils. The European Castrol synthetic (made in Germany), high-end Amsoil, Redline, Motul and a few others are proven to be pure synthetic oils. There are multiple articles on the Internet covering this discussion.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1265711

However, i am convinced that even a "non-pure" synthetic oil from Mobil/Castrol is way better than a regular, dyno oil. I'll stick to it, any day!

 

danmm7, have you noticed any difference in engine performance? Does the throttle response feel different? What about the MPG have they changed at all?

 

The definition of "full synthetic" or what constitutes a "full synthetic" has been debated for a while. The entire package has to be looked at and the application has to be taken into consideration.

My suggestion is to go to Bobistheoilguy and research there.

 

As in my earlier post, 0w-20 in my wife's 06 Odyssey appeared to make the drive train louder. I just purchased Castrol Edge in 0w-20 and 5w-20 so I'll know for sure.

Also, just because there's drive train noise doesn't necessarily mean you're having engine problems. I just had Blackstone analyze the M1 0w-20 from my wife's van and they said my engine looked fine from a wear perspective and suggested I go to 8000 mile OCIs, despite what's considered severe service.

 

Good question. I do feel that the car runs smoother and quieter! Is it the new 0W-30 Mobil 1 oil? Maybe. Keep in mind that about 2k miles ago i did a 4x3 transmission flush and i switched from Acura's ATF-Z1 to Amsoil ATF. This also affected how the car shifts, how smooth it accelerates, etc. I am not sure if the car "changed" because of the ATF or the engine oil... or both. Either way, the change is not drastic but i can feel it/hear it.

 

I see so, that change to Amsoil ATF probably accounts for the smooth shifts and feel for the car. I was just wondering what going to a slightly heavier weight would do. Not that 0w30 is totally outside the realm of reason either.

In the end everyone has their opinions. To the OP, I will stick with Mobil 1, I think it is a good oil for the price. There are other synthetics out there and better oils I will recognize, but I will not be using them because of the cost/availability to me. I hope we haven't taken your thread it too crazy of a direction either.

 

In our '97 RL I ran exclusively 10/30 and 5/30 Mobil 1. I had over 225,000 miles on the car and never an issue with noise, consumption etc. I can tell you this, when I switched over from petroleum Castrol 10/30 to Mobil 1, the car ran quieter, and the gas mileage went up.

I am now running Royal Purple in the '06. I am paying a tad more per quart, but I wanted to run the better quality synthetic (if there is a such a thing).

To give my background on synthetics, I ran Amzoil synthetic back in the late 70's when it first came out in our Alfa Romeo spider that we campaigned for autocross, rallies, and as a daily driver. The oil really made a huge difference in how the car performed. I believe in the stuff and won't go back to petroleum oils. We dyno'd the car and increased with 10 hp more, transmission 5 more and the differential, a couple hp. We are talking hp to the rear wheels. The car also was faster on the track and hit red line like it was no big deal. I missed a shift and blew out one of the rods big end. The tear down was amazing how clean it was and we were able to reuse the crank with out grinding. Just put in a new balanced rod and back on the road in a few days.

The synthetic oil has longer molecular chains which resist breakdown under heat and stress, adding life to engine components even after longer drain periods. Most synthetics are recommended for 10,000 miles or more. Some up to 15,000 miles. I change out the oil when the light comes on which is about 7,000-10,000 miles. In the '97 I changed it at 5,000 mile intervals.

 

I hear what you're saying, but I'm fairly certain that RTR was referring to the "synthetics" as not real because they aren't true dino oils. Oh well; to each his own, but the benefits of synthetic vs. dino have been thoroughly discussed and confirmed by people much smarter than any of us...

 

none of you guys are racing nor does it say to use synthetic oil for your cars. So do what you want im just giving you heads up im sure you guys wont thank me for it later that ok just want to help people keep there cars on the road and running smooth with out noise! I have been working on honda's for 20 years i know what they like

 

rtr, point taken. The question is, do you have any factual proof that there are NO benefits of using Synthetic oil vs cheap regular dyno oil in Honda engines? Do you have factual proof that Acura RL runs smoother/better on cheap dyno oil when compared to Acura RL running good synthetic oil?

No one here is arguing that we must always use synthetic oil in the RL. A lot of people don't use synthetic. However, most of us do believe that the synthetic oil offers better protection in the long run and it definitely does NOT hurt the Honda engine. This is not just our opinion, this was proven hundreds of times by oil labs, auto shops, engine re-builders, etc, etc. Yes, synthetic oil costs more but it also protects better under different conditions and lasts longer. This is not my opinion - it is a scientific fact.

Btw... "Racing" is not the only stressful condition for a car. Hours of daily stop-and-go traffic can do a lot more harm to the engine than 2hrs of racing on a track.

 

Well the car started and ran fine all day over Thanksgiving in 28 degree Buffalo weather with about a foot of snow. I will keep you updated, not sure if I can tell a difference from the 5W-20 Mobil 1.

 

Not sure why the oil viscosity would increase or decrease valve train noise. This is an overhead cam engine. There are no hydraulic lifters to collapse or pushrods to clog. If you are hearing noise, the lash needs to be adjusted. If a higher viscosity oil quiets the lash, then I would argue it definitely needs to be adjusted.

 

I recently jus purchased a 06 RL with 125,000 miles on it. it was hit in the front and the radiator was busted it leaked out a lot of transmission & radiator fluid should I add AMS ATF-Z1 tranny oil to it of flush it. What kind of engine coolant should I run. Also is AMS synthetic 20 Weight eng oil ok to use not knowing what the previous owner used.
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I agree with pretty much all being said re rtr's post and how it is inaccurate.. which means I had no intention of having any say.
But.....
I race and prep many Hondas, some purely race cars.
Guess what? They all use fully synthetic (triple ester) oils.
Maybe when you spoke of the 'thinner' oils you may have been referring to the slippyness rather than thickness?

And for those quoting the viscosity numbers like lives depend on it... they don't. If you understand the way oil works and what you want from it you can move quite a way from the manufacturers spec without any worries.
0-5W/20-40 weight oils will be perfectly fine if you know when to use them (climate etc..).
My road/track car is 22 yrs old and is specced to use 10W/40 dino. I use 5W/60 synth and have for almost 10yrs. I can see the horror on some faces right now lol

There simply aren't many reasons to use dino oil these days.

OP I would say you'll be perfectly fine with that oil.

Edit: I also never looked at the dates of the posts before replying Ooops!

 

I was about to say... "You're responding to a guy who always talks out his ass only to see words go across the screen, AND the OP is gone."