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I am a DIY type guy. Had my first free oil change by dealer already so I am nearing my turn to do myself. I drove almost 12k miles in 7 months so far since getting the 2016 in June 2015.
So big difference for me is the switch to fully synthetic 0w-20 per manual 4.5 quarts. Anyone have opinion of filters? I usually use fram but this vehicle is the more luxury aspects then my past oil changes. Seen YouTube videos on the fram filters and appears not the greatest. Curious on what other folks use. Thanks
The Honda/Acura filter is good quality and reasonably priced. Using those, and an oil that actually meets specifications (as opposed to boutique oils like amSOIL or Royal Poopie that claim to meet specs but have no certifications to back up that claim) will keep your warranty intact and your car humming along.
If doing DIY servicing, make sure to keep a logbook of what you did, when you did it (date and mileage) and what parts were used. I would also suggest keeping receipts that show the products purchased and/or bottle labels and box tops for filters and the like.
The last thing you want is to have a lubrication problem at 50k miles and have a warranty denial because you used an oil or filter that didn't meet specs.
There is no problem with doing your own maintenance - just keep a detailed log. It is also OK for the dealer to do part of a service (transmission service for example) while you do the rest of the service.
Just remember that if there is a problem, Acura has a right to make you prove that all required servicing was done.
I was looking at K&N oil filters which I have been using for many years and I saw many bad reviews at amazon because they are now made in China and they leak at the 1" nut, so I went to the Mobil 1 website to see what fit the RDX (2013+) and nothing is available according to them. I searched further and found that M1-110 fits the MDX, do you guys use the M1-110 for the RDX?
I noticed the numbers between K&N and Mobil 1 are similar: Kia forte (my wife's car) is: K&N HP-1004 vs. M1-104, my old PT is: K&N HP-1002 vs. M1-102 and the RDX is: K&N HP-1010 vs. M1-110 (listed for the MDX). It looks like the second number (0) is just replaced with a 1 (with a - in between).
K&N sucks for getting their stuff made in China now, I won't take the chance, I'm switching to Mobil 1 oil filters, and I have always used Mobil 1 full synthetic oil on all my cars for more than 10 years anyway, so using Mobil 1 oil filters is fine by me, I just wanted you guys to know the RDX is not listed for using Mobil 1 oil filters and I wanted to know if you guys use the M1-110.
The M1-110 is what I use. It's specified for the RDX everywhere I've looked, e.g. Rockauto, etc.
And Mobil 1 oil.
FWIW, I've found the best prices on motor oil to be at Walmart unless you can get a deal at your FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store). Filters too but the selection is sometime limited.
The M1-110 is what I use. It's specified for the RDX everywhere I've looked, e.g. Rockauto, etc.
And Mobil 1 oil.
FWIW, I've found the best prices on motor oil to be at Walmart unless you can get a deal at your FLAPS (Friendly Local Auto Parts Store). Filters too but the selection is sometime limited.
Cool, thanks! One would think that Mobil 1 website would have the RDX listed, considering it's the source, how do Rockauto... know the part number for the RDX then?
BTW: I've been buying my 5 QT oil jugs at Walmart since forever, best prices by far.
Acura has used the same oil filter on the 3.5 engine for years. My mother's 2000 TL used the same oil filter as our RDX. IIRC, our 2008 Honda CR-V also used the same one altho it was the four cyl engine. They can easily cross reference them. The filter books in the auto parts stores also often have cross reference listings.
You can order the OEM oil filters from the dealers that do mail order and some of them offer quantity discounts for three or more. They're usually cheaper than buying from your local dealer's parts dept.
I just switched from K&N to M1 and I think I'll stick to K&N, K&N has 8 holes vs 5 for M1, so K&N should have more flow than M1, plus K&N has that 1" nut at the base, so that makes it easy to change the oil on all my cars, don't have to worry about different sizes of oil filter wrenches. I've been using K&N for 15 years or so and never had leaks or anything, the one that came out was made in Mexico and it was fine, as long as it's not made in China, it should be OK.
Those are for my other car since I don't have an RDX yet, sucks I know, anyway, I was looking at the M1 and K&N filters for the RDX and it's very small, it's slimmer than the one used on my 2.0L 4 cyl Kia, I wonder how such a small filter can handle a V6, I was expecting the M1-110 (V6) to be bigger than the M1-104 (4 cyl), but it was the opposite, go figure!
The Honda/Acura filter is good quality and reasonably priced. Using those, and an oil that actually meets specifications (as opposed to boutique oils like amSOIL or Royal Poopie that claim to meet specs but have no certifications to back up that claim) will keep your warranty intact and your car humming along.
If doing DIY servicing, make sure to keep a logbook of what you did, when you did it (date and mileage) and what parts were used. I would also suggest keeping receipts that show the products purchased and/or bottle labels and box tops for filters and the like.
The last thing you want is to have a lubrication problem at 50k miles and have a warranty denial because you used an oil or filter that didn't meet specs.
There is no problem with doing your own maintenance - just keep a detailed log. It is also OK for the dealer to do part of a service (transmission service for example) while you do the rest of the service.
Just remember that if there is a problem, Acura has a right to make you prove that all required servicing was done.
as he said but
USA there is a law that a dealership or shop that is refusing warranty work (under standard warranty coverage) must prove that part is what caused the failure. not car owner have to prove that. Magnuson-Moss Warranty prevents dealership to void your warranty
I also use Mobil1 oil filter along with Mobil1 0w-20 extended performance. 0 issue.
as he said but
USA there is a law that a dealership or shop that is refusing warranty work (under standard warranty coverage) must prove that part is what caused the failure. not car owner have to prove that. Magnuson-Moss Warranty prevents dealership to void your warranty
I also use Mobil1 oil filter along with Mobil1 0w-20 extended performance. 0 issue.
Not quite correct. The Act was written to preclude a manufacturer from refusing warranty service based upon the mere presence of a non-OE part. If a "substantially similar" part is used, then the manufacturer must show that the aftermarket part was at fault - or - much easier, show that part isn't "substantially similar."
Any part that is labeled as "performance" or "increases performance" or "higher flow than OE" isn't "substantially similar" and therefore isn't covered under the act.
Aside from all that, who do you think is going to enforce the Act for you? If a dealer says "we won't cover it under warranty because of XYZ part" and the manufacturer agrees, then your only recourse is to sue the manufacturer and/or dealer.
If the manufacturer agrees, then you can bet your last dime that they'll show up with enough evidence to sink the Titanic.
That's one of the reasons why some aftermarket companies (like amSOIL) can claim "we'll pay for the repair if the manufacturer shows that our oil was to blame. The problem is that the manufacturer never needs to show that. They only need to show that the oil wasn't "substantially similar." They can do that in their sleep.
A manufacturer may legally say "in order to keep the warranty intact you need to do maintenance as set out in the OM". They may also set standards that the products must meet although they cannot require you to use a particular brand (unless they supply it free). Since none of the boutique oils are tested to see if they meet standards, they don't comply with the warranty requirements and the manufacturer never needs to show that the oil caused the product.
On a positive note, most dealers are pretty reasonably and won't cause issues because you've used a Mobil or Fram filter because most of those mainstream products are recognized as being substantially similar and don't generally cause issues.
Not quite correct. The Act was written to preclude a manufacturer from refusing warranty service based upon the mere presence of a non-OE part. If a "substantially similar" part is used, then the manufacturer must show that the aftermarket part was at fault - or - much easier, show that part isn't "substantially similar."
Any part that is labeled as "performance" or "increases performance" or "higher flow than OE" isn't "substantially similar" and therefore isn't covered under the act.
Aside from all that, who do you think is going to enforce the Act for you? If a dealer says "we won't cover it under warranty because of XYZ part" and the manufacturer agrees, then your only recourse is to sue the manufacturer and/or dealer.
If the manufacturer agrees, then you can bet your last dime that they'll show up with enough evidence to sink the Titanic.
That's one of the reasons why some aftermarket companies (like amSOIL) can claim "we'll pay for the repair if the manufacturer shows that our oil was to blame. The problem is that the manufacturer never needs to show that. They only need to show that the oil wasn't "substantially similar." They can do that in their sleep.
A manufacturer may legally say "in order to keep the warranty intact you need to do maintenance as set out in the OM". They may also set standards that the products must meet although they cannot require you to use a particular brand (unless they supply it free). Since none of the boutique oils are tested to see if they meet standards, they don't comply with the warranty requirements and the manufacturer never needs to show that the oil caused the product.
On a positive note, most dealers are pretty reasonably and won't cause issues because you've used a Mobil or Fram filter because most of those mainstream products are recognized as being substantially similar and don't generally cause issues.
I am not trying to argue but owner needs to take legal action if dealer refuse to work or prove that aftermarket part causes failure. that's what i meant.
dealer must explain/show how it causes parts failed. not by just words "you used aftermarket so it failed"
I am not trying to argue but owner needs to take legal action if dealer refuse to work or prove that aftermarket part causes failure. that's what i meant.
dealer must explain/show how it causes parts failed. not by just words "you used aftermarket so it failed"
Correct. But too many aftermarket companies tout the MM Act as if a knight in shining armor will go after the offending dealer. It is up to you to go to court and in the meantime your car sits and rots in the dealer's lot or you've paid to get it fixed.
I just want people to understand the risks before they decide to switch from a know performer like a factory oil filter to a "performance" filter. It isn't like the OE filter is poor quality or that the aftermarket filter will increase performance. Our cars aren't known for having lubrication issues and - truth be told - we don't keep them long enough for any lubrication issues to rear their ugly heads.
The same holds true for boutique oils. We frequently hear "I love Royal Poopie" and nobody can answer the "Why?" None of the boutique oils bother to get the oils tested to see if they comply with standards so we have to take their word for it.
By definition, a 0-20 oil that meets a certain spec will perform identically to another 0w20 oil that meets the same spec so nobody will be able to show any meaningful differences - except that with the boutique oils you run the risk of having a warranty repair denied.
Correct. But too many aftermarket companies tout the MM Act as if a knight in shining armor will go after the offending dealer. It is up to you to go to court and in the meantime your car sits and rots in the dealer's lot or you've paid to get it fixed.
I just want people to understand the risks before they decide to switch from a know performer like a factory oil filter to a "performance" filter. It isn't like the OE filter is poor quality or that the aftermarket filter will increase performance. Our cars aren't known for having lubrication issues and - truth be told - we don't keep them long enough for any lubrication issues to rear their ugly heads.
yeah..difficult fight with big ass car companies with their lawyers and our time to waste. yup this is reality..still paying maintenance fee is too expensive than you can have that in local shop. I usually do most of work myself and have few friends own shops so no big deal but kind of disgust to see how dealer making money on just changing oil + VISUAL INSPECTION for like $150 per visit. i should get a job myself performing visual inspection for people and only charge $50 lol
yeah..difficult fight with big ass car companies with their lawyers and our time to waste. yup this is reality..still paying maintenance fee is too expensive than you can have that in local shop. I usually do most of work myself and have few friends own shops so no big deal but kind of disgust to see how dealer making money on just changing oil + VISUAL INSPECTION for like $150 per visit. i should get a job myself performing visual inspection for people and only charge $50 lol
A DIY or getting it done at an indy usually isn't a problem as long as you keep records. The problem is showing that you used parts and fluids that meet specs.
Let's assume that you do your own servicing and keep meticulous records including receipts/labels/boxtops and whatnot for the parts you've used. If you have a lubrication issue then they have to show that the servicing caused the issue.
Yes, you still have to go to court but the burden is on them.
If you use Royal Poopie, amSOIL or the like (or don't keep records) then all the manufacturer needs to show in court that the parts or fluids used didn't meet the required specifications set out in the owner's manual and all of a sudden the burden shifts to you to show that the maple syrup you used as oil actually met those specs. You won't be able to do that because that maple syrup was never tested and shown to meet any specs - ergo - you lose.
A DIY or getting it done at an indy usually isn't a problem as long as you keep records. The problem is showing that you used parts and fluids that meet specs.
Let's assume that you do your own servicing and keep meticulous records including receipts/labels/boxtops and whatnot for the parts you've used. If you have a lubrication issue then they have to show that the servicing caused the issue.
Yes, you still have to go to court but the burden is on them.
If you use Royal Poopie, amSOIL or the like (or don't keep records) then all the manufacturer needs to show in court that the parts or fluids used didn't meet the required specifications set out in the owner's manual and all of a sudden the burden shifts to you to show that the maple syrup you used as oil actually met those specs. You won't be able to do that because that maple syrup was never tested and shown to meet any specs - ergo - you lose.
You can get the Acura oil filters on Amazon for less than $12. Even cheaper if you buy 4 or 5 at a time. Oil is so important to VTEC motors, you just don't want to take a chance on anything especially something inexpensive like filters.
Just buy the Honda filter for an 08 Honda Civic. It is the identical filter to what the Acura uses. I buy them in bulk because we have a 2005 MDX, a 2008 Honda Civic, and a 2013 Acura RDX. All three of these cars use the same filter. I believe 90% of the Honda's on the road use this same filter and they have been doing so for over a decade. Honda is very smart that way. I think I get them for about $7 each online. Why take a chance on an off brand filter when you are hardly saving any money. The Honda filter has the best gasket and it's made for your car. Pretty simple. As for oil, the only real difference in oils is between plain old oil and synthetic oil. The synthetic oil handles heat a little better and you can go longer between oil changes. I know the dealer uses semi-synthetic (50/50). You can use that as well. Get the 5 quart jugs at Walmart, they are dirt cheap. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic or Valvoline 100% Synthetic. Really can't go wrong with most brands of synthetic oil as long as you get the viscosity recommended in your manual.
You can get the Acura oil filters on Amazon for less than $12. Even cheaper if you buy 4 or 5 at a time. Oil is so important to VTEC motors, you just don't want to take a chance on anything especially something inexpensive like filters.
Watch what you get, if you get 15400-PLM-A01, then these are very good filters, comparable to $10+ after market filters such as FRAM XG7317, Mobil M-110 EP.
If you get 15400-PLM-A02, then this is basically a re-badged FRAM tough guard TG7317, which in my book is total junk, I don't want to start a new conversation on if FRAM is good or not, FRAM does make some excellent oil filters, such as Ultra Guard (XG7317 for Acura/Honda), but most of the oil filters by FRAM (TG7317, PH7317, ... for Acura/Honda) are junk.
Also FYI, most Acura/Honda dealer will use 15400-PLM-A02.
I usually go to dealer (whichever has the cheapest oil change) to change the oil after it reaches 10%, (this is only peace of minder for the future buyer to show I did service at dealer), after 500~1000 miles, I change the junk oil/filter from dealer to full synthetic 0w20 (whatever is on sale, Mobil1/Pennzoil/Castrol/QS) and a good oil filter. (cost about $30 oil+filter)
Last edited by CrimsonElan; 06-23-2016 at 04:53 PM.
I take it that you assume semi-synthetic is 50/50 and hope that nobody actually told you this. I searched for quite some time to find out what the percentages were and I learned that it is a very well kept secret with each oil company. A friend of mine who is in that industry told me that the synthetic percentage ranges from 5 to 30 percent - not even close to 50.
I take it that you assume semi-synthetic is 50/50 and hope that nobody actually told you this. I searched for quite some time to find out what the percentages were and I learned that it is a very well kept secret with each oil company. A friend of mine who is in that industry told me that the synthetic percentage ranges from 5 to 30 percent - not even close to 50.
This might not be true for 0w20, because 0w20 dino oil does not exist.
I only use the carbonized cabin filters from Fram on occasion. I would never use any of their engine filters.
Mahle, Honda, Purolator, or WIX are the safest picks I think. K&N oli filters or Mobil 1 are little more expensive alternates, but have good construction and filtering as well.
I don't know if it is still the case, but I have been on MDX and Honda Ridgeline forums for some years. Honda was producing an oll filter with the part number ending in A-01. That is the one you should use. They also made some ending in A-02. Those were substandard according to several folks who cut filters open and compared them. I am sure these are both the same filters used on most all Hondas and Acuras I believe a company called Filtech makes the 'good' ones.
If you take your car to a dealer for changes, just pick up your own filter so they don't install an A-02 without you knowing. You can take an Acura to a Honda dealer for just basic maintenance. I used to take my Infiniti G35 to a Nissan dealership because it was cheaper and closer, as well. Warranty work is another matter.
You can even pick up your own Mobil 1, Castrol, etc at WalMart and bring that too. The dealer should only charge you about 1/2 for just the labor. For sometime my local Honda dealer only charged $10 for the oil change when I brought the stuff and they still did the safety checks. They raised it to $15 now. Most of the time I DIY.
If you bring a non-Honda oil filter to a dealership expect them to read you the riot act that if the filter you chose fails, Honda may not cover any engine damage that it may cause. No one has to recite the Magnusson-Moss bill that says you can use aftermarket pars that meet OEM requirements or better. I know...I know!!!
Just be prepared to hear that and don't argue! Just politely insist they use it. They can not refuse. You don't want to argue with a mechanic or service writer who works on your car in a place where you can not see it, just like you don't want to argue with a waiter or cook who handles your food.
Last edited by rollinacura; 12-17-2017 at 10:55 AM.
I used to use Purolator PureONE until it was shown to be prone to filter media splitting. It was at that point I switched to Bosch Premium # 3233. My oil change interval is on the maintenance minder and I typically use 5w20 MaxLife synthetic blend....not sure what I'll use going forward in our recently purchased 13 RDX
01-28-2016, 07:53 AM
