When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That sounds to me like the whining of a belt rubbing, although it could be a lot of other things.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Only when we are no longer afraid do we begin to live in every experience, painful or joyous, to live in gratitude for every moment, to live abundantly. -- Dorothy Thompson
That sounds to me like the whining of a belt rubbing, although it could be a lot of other things.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Only when we are no longer afraid do we begin to live in every experience, painful or joyous, to live in gratitude for every moment, to live abundantly. -- Dorothy Thompson
thanks! Any idea how to narrow down which belt? Had timing belt done a few months ago.
If it is belt noise (which can be noise from belt tensioners as well as the belt itself), I suggest googling it; there are sites that can give you good starting places for determining if that *is* the problem, and then help you know how to address it. Good luck!
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Some people try to turn back their odometers. Not me; I want people to know why I look this way. I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
I am assuming you think it is coming from the REAR? Driveshaft, center bearing, half-shafts? And I take it since we cannot see the speedo or tach, is it speed or RPM related.
Can the engine be shut down (in a safe area) to see if the noise is still there while the vehicle is moving? One thing you can do to see if it is engine related or chassis related is using the S mode and changing gears.
I am assuming you think it is coming from the REAR? Driveshaft, center bearing, half-shafts? And I take it since we cannot see the speedo or tach, is it speed or RPM related.
Can the engine be shut down (in a safe area) to see if the noise is still there while the vehicle is moving? One thing you can do to see if it is engine related or chassis related is using the S mode and changing gears.
It sounds like it is coming from the front, possibly driver side. I did the rear diff fluid as that was recommended by my mechanic based on the noise.
it seems to be speed related. 50-60km/h when engine is cold. It will do it intermittently after driving for a bit. I hear it faintly at highway speed.
While driving if I put it in neutral , the noise continues.
All these tips do not make sense, you need to put the car on a car lift, repeat the conditions and listen with a stethoscope. Always diagnose in the first place, and then replace parts, not vice versa.
All these tips do not make sense, you need to put the car on a car lift, repeat the conditions and listen with a stethoscope. Always diagnose in the first place, and then replace parts, not vice versa.
Actually, they do. Process of elimination; is it coming from the engine/transmission or chassis. From that point on, narrow it down. And what if he does not have a lift?
In the interests of saving both time and money, most people can do some 'sleuthing' with respect to troubleshooting. How much, of course, varies with many factors -- how much you know/level of experience, if you have help (often another person can hear or see something you do not), how comfortable you are with the process, how much time you have, the space, time and tools that are available to you, etc. Being frugal, I have learned how to do a lot of things I didn't think I could do, and learned that some things are beyond my resources. Most people do not have a lift (or access to one that doesn't come with a fair amount of sunk money). Always find out as much as you can before spending money.
That said, sometimes (not very often!) the best way is replacing parts, when it is harder to determine what the problem is; sometimes the parts could do with replacing anyway, even if they are not the root of the problem.
There are many approaches, and none fit every situation.
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Puritanism: The haunting fear that someone, somewhere may be happy.
Brocksolid: A couple of questions and tips for you:
1) What year is your RDX and how many miles?
2) Based on your post, I'm assuming this noise is not present when you start your car and you are in PARK. It's only when you are moving? Pop the hood and start the car. Are there any noises? Shift to Drive. Any noises?
3) Check your tire wear to make sure the tread depth is even across the tire and all 4 tires. What I'm hearing sounds more like tire noise or bearing noise especially if it's driver side front. Noise from the serpentine belt is higher pitched. Also if you were having issues with the timing belt......you would know. i guess it could be brake noise too
4) Manually shift the gears to see if there is a change in noise.
All this is to help you determine is it engine noise, drivetrain noise or tire noise. I have limited ability with cars but knowing the answers to these questions will help your mechanic find the problem.
A version of this engine used on the 7th gen Accord had a massive problem with a whine that came from the power steering pump (not the belt); there was a TSB for that. This sounds a little different from that, and I'm not suggesting that's the cause of your whine, only that there are other things that no one's thought of here in this thread. dtownfb has some good basic starting-out tasks to help narrow down what the problem might be. Good luck!
RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
Attila the Nun: a simple girl pledged to a life of violence.
I have had the same issue since 100km mileage (new)... it seems something from transmission at 4th gear in a range of speed 50-60km/h (normal drive mode)...
Brocksolid: A couple of questions and tips for you:
1) What year is your RDX and how many miles?
2) Based on your post, I'm assuming this noise is not present when you start your car and you are in PARK. It's only when you are moving? Pop the hood and start the car. Are there any noises? Shift to Drive. Any noises?
3) Check your tire wear to make sure the tread depth is even across the tire and all 4 tires. What I'm hearing sounds more like tire noise or bearing noise especially if it's driver side front. Noise from the serpentine belt is higher pitched. Also if you were having issues with the timing belt......you would know. i guess it could be brake noise too
4) Manually shift the gears to see if there is a change in noise.
All this is to help you determine is it engine noise, drivetrain noise or tire noise. I have limited ability with cars but knowing the answers to these questions will help your mechanic find the problem.
Good luck.
1) 2014 - 175,000 kms
2) only when moving. Starting the car, shift to drive etc is normal
3) Tires are new last year. Michelin defender ltx. We are due for front brakes. We do get the odd brake squeal and vibration at higher speed when braking occurs. Could be the brakes making the whine?
4) I’ll try that.
Actually, they do. Process of elimination; is it coming from the engine/transmission or chassis. From that point on, narrow it down. And what if he does not have a lift?
My friend changed the entire front suspension in this way, and the problem turned out to be a collapsed catalytic converter. From the very beginning I told him first diagnostics, then replacement of spare parts, but he decided that he was smarter. A similar situation happened with a customer due to misfires, he brought parts to me, I changed them, so first he brought spark plugs, then wires, an ignition coil, then fuel injectors, then a fuel filter and pump. As a result, it turned out that the exhaust valve burned out.
1) 2014 - 175,000 kms
2) only when moving. Starting the car, shift to drive etc is normal
3) Tires are new last year. Michelin defender ltx. We are due for front brakes. We do get the odd brake squeal and vibration at higher speed when braking occurs. Could be the brakes making the whine?
4) I’ll try that.
thanks!
It could be the brakes rubbing but I would think your gas mileage would suffer and it would stop rubbing once it wore down a bit.
Another idea is to find an empty parking lot and have a friend listen for the noise. It's easier for your friend to hear the noise from the outside.
My friend changed the entire front suspension in this way, and the problem turned out to be a collapsed catalytic converter. From the very beginning I told him first diagnostics, then replacement of spare parts, but he decided that he was smarter. A similar situation happened with a customer due to misfires, he brought parts to me, I changed them, so first he brought spark plugs, then wires, an ignition coil, then fuel injectors, then a fuel filter and pump. As a result, it turned out that the exhaust valve burned out.
I said "process of elimination" not "process of guessing".
My 1999 Honda CR-V quit on the way to work back in 2007 when the car was just over 8 years old, and for the first time in my life of driving (~33 years at the time), it got towed home. The car would hardly idle and would quit if I gave it any gas.
Checked the fuel pressure although at the time I did not have a fuel pressure gauge, so I cracked the banjo bolt on the fuel filter and there was fuel pressure; maybe too much or too little but there was lots of pressure.
But I remember a few days before as I drove home, everytime I gave it gas to accelerate, I could hear a "sucking" sound....coming from the engine compartment, ie the air filter intake.
So I had someone crank it over and with my hand on the exhaust pipe (no, on my cars everthing is perfect, so no exhaust leaks), I could hardly feel any pressure pulses. Somethng is blocked.
Guess what? A bunch of sand-like material poured out of the catalytic converter as I tilted it onto the ground. My Honda CR-V now sounded like a NASCAR.
Simple, no money spent, only on a new factory catalytic converter and some gaskets. At the same time, I replaced other exhaust components while "I was in there".
What is missing in any trade and even on the professional side are DIAGNOSTIC SKILLS.
When my NG furnace was about 12 years old, it would cut-out after 15 seconds. Now furnaces and hot water tanks don't really excite me, unfortunately we need them. I am a car, motorcycle and aircraft guy.
So I checked the safety devices and then the pilot and main valves. Would you look at that, hmmmm the 23V at the pilot valve (24V transformer) and as the seconds go by, that 23V dropped down to 11V. Yup, the solenoid is dropping out. Why? So I checked the Johnson Controls Intermittent Pilot Ignition Control (supplies voltage to the PV and MV valves and incorporates safety systems) and sure enough the voltage across the relay contacts to the Pilot Valve started at 0V (what it should be) and increased to 12V, the voltage that I was losing at the Pilot Valve solenoid.
HVAC guy wanted $403 for the control and another $200 for the service call (a 15 minute job), so $603 plus tax. Yeah right, the HVAC guy is dreaming. So I ordered the control for $129 delivered and fixed the old control for $5 and kept it as a spare. Two new mechanical relays soldered in. Why use mechanical relays when you can use a solid state relay? Now you know why this low paid tech can afford a 911.
08-27-2022, 10:38 PM
