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I just bought a 2018 used and I am going to put a bike rack on it, OEM is pricy so I will most likely buy aftermarket , I am almost certain that I'll buy Curt, however, I just noticed that Curt is the only one out of the four (OEM, Draw-Tite, U-haul, Curt) that doesn't come with spacers. I searched a bit in this forum, someone who installed Curt mentioned that he put in 3mm thick 12M fender washer, but I look at the picture of the spacer that comes in either U-haul or Draw-Tite they seem to be a lot thicker
I am wondering if anyone can show actual installed photos of Curt or Draw-tite for my reference?
I installed a Curt hitch (well, like 99% sure it's a curt hitch) on our 2016. However, I bought it from a mass hitch seller on craigslist in our area, he included all of the correctly spec'd mounting hardware in a separate bag. It all matched up with the instructions. That being said - I am unsure what you mean by a spacer. Do you mean something you are putting between the frame and the hitch mounting point? I can take pics of mine when I get home, if that helps. Coincidentally, I'm using the hitch for the first time next week with just a cargo attachment.
greatly appreciated if you can post a picture or two; Curt does NOT come with a spacer, while the rest of all other hitches that I research do (OEM, U-haul, Draw-tite), makes me wonder if the final installation would be any different
I added a few washers so the hitch wouldn't push up on the lower plastic part of the bumper.
Can't remember how many, or thickness though...
Also, go with stainless steel.
So yeah, there are NOT spacers included with the curt hitch. The hitch sits flush against the frame where it bolts up. I had zero clearance issues though (not touching the bumper or anything), I can add a pic or two when my wife gets home with the car this evening.
The only hiccup with installation was the fact that the car had spent 5 years in Ohio winters, so there was corrosion on the threads of the holes in the frame. I had to use an abrasive metal brush attachment on a drill to de-burr the insides of the holes, so that the bolts threaded in with no issues.
I ended up buying from U-Haul and having them install my hitch. I believe it was the Draw-Tite. I can't express how difficult it is to screw in the bolts with the gunk of 4 years of driving stuck in the holes. Also the screw adapter that goes into the forward hole is no piece of cake either. Mine bent like crazy. The spacer is nice to have. It levels the trailer. If it doesn't come with a spacer, you can get washers a hardware store. If I remember right, it's not quite a half inch thick.
Remember the towing capacity for the RDX is only 1500 lbs. The 400 lb tongue weight of the Draw-Tite is plenty.
Good luck. Any of these hitches will work just fine. I love having a hitch mounted bike rack (Allen - 2 bike)
Very low tow capacity. An unfortunate surprise after I purchased the RDX...
Also keep in mind that tongue weight is a percentage of the tow capacity, and just because the manufacturer of the hitch says 400lbs, it doesn't necessarily mean anything. You have to abide by the most stringent restriction. Typically 10% of your GTWR will give you your max tongue weight.
Which in this case, 10% of 1500lb is 150lbs.
I'm darned close to that with my bike rack & 2 ebikes.
If the bolt/threads are in any way lubricated with oil or WD40 or the like, the torque required will be significantly less. Even on a perfectly dry bolt, 100 felt like a lot.
60-80 would be good I'm sure, but as with anything keep a keen eye on it and check the torque after the first few uses.
Over torque it, and you'll strip the threads just like I did.
