I apologize in advance. I'm not the most tech/mechanical guy. With that said, I finally hit my 100K on my 2013 RDX. Got it used as a CPO 6 years ago with about 50K on it. I've been going by the maintenance minder for the most part.

I know this is a major job.. my guess is on my next oil change I'll get the major service reminder. With that said, my local mechanic said he'd charge me $600 for the labor. He recommended the Aisin kit. I've also seen that kit recommended here. My question is.. is there anything else I should have him serivce while he's down there? I think there's a serpentine belt/accessory belt.. but correct me if I'm wrong, it's not part of the kit. So do I need to replace this? Should I replace this?

I guess my main thing is, other than what the maintenace minder suggest, is there anything else you guys think I should do? I read someone being mad about some idlers or what not and the dealership not replacing them.. again, not tech saavy not sure what that was about.

I found this kit on Amazon, is this everything I need?

 

Looks about right. Definitely do the serpentine belt while you are having everything else replaced. That's a very good price for the labor.

 

Got it. Okay so I'll have to purchase that belt separately then. Should I go genuine Honda? Maybe find one on Rock Auto? And how do you feel about Aisin kit? I heard the timing belt on those kits are made from Mitsuboshi or something? You think that should be ok?

Also for this timing belt and water pump job.. I'm assuming Imy mechanic needs to flush the radiator as well? Or no? I hope that his labor price included that if so. Either way not a bad price indeed.

 

If your indy mechanic charges $600 for timing belt kit change I would say that is very reasonable. However, you not only need to change the timing belt and the water pump and serpentine belt, I also highly recommend changing the idler pulley, hydraulic tensioner, and timing belt idler pulley as well. Use the Aisin kit from RockAuto because they provide the best price.
At the same time, make sure that $600 labor is to change all these parts just partial. The last thing I emphasize is to make sure your mechanic really knows how to do it.

 

They tend to be one of the top choices with many people being happy. Rock Auto is also very well respected.

 

Much appreciated 👍. Can you click on the link at the bottom of the original post and let me know if that's everything that I need? It's from Amazon.. but if I can find the kit on Rock Auto for cheaper I'll definitely go that route.

Again, I'm not the most savvy person so I don't know the names of those parts listed and I'm learning as I go. From what I can tell, I see a timing belt, water pump, tensioner is the one with he grenade pull pin?, and two other parts I don't know the name for. Hopefully this is everything.

 

buy from RA, do NOT buy from Amazon, if you do a search, you’ll find that there are far too many fake parts on there to risk it

 

Agreed. Across all the forums that I'm a part of, there are a lot of issues with fake parts.

 

Yes that kit has almost everything you need for this job. It only misses the tensioner + pulley for the drive belt which I also recommend to be changed since it is under lots of pressure and wears out.
I don't think the Amazon price is right. I bought the same kit from RockAuto for lower price. I would say check them both but I trust the genuine and quality of RockAuto more.

 

The main thing is not to forget that there are cases when people buy on RockAuto, and then I make a return and instead of the original they put a fake, and RockAuto misses such cases and sells a fake through no fault of its own. Therefore, you should always check what you get from RockAuto.

 

I'm not sure how one can recognize fake parts though. The counterfeit parts mimic the original with lower quality material , It is difficult to tell.
My kit had a WP that has "made-in-Japan" on it. The timing belt was made in Thailand, the serpentine belt was made in Mexico and I could not even figure where the tensioners and pulleys were made. I used them all and so far the car runs just fine. But of course the passage of time will show if they were OEM or fake. If they fail prematurely then that is a tough lock.
The only way I know for a fact to be certain about parts is to buy them from the dealership but then you pay way more. So with a lower pay comes a risk.
If I look back, I tell me myself I wish I had bout the genuine parts but that is the past and don't want to sweat about it now. I have hear enough good stories about the Aisin kit that I would like to think mine will be as good.

 

As others have said, buy the Aisin kit from Rockauto.

You will also need 2 gallons of Honda type 2 coolant, as well as 6 NGK laser iridium spark plugs for this service interval (if you choose to do the spark plugs, at least). I would imagine that the labor for the plugs will add a bit to your overall quote if it wasn't mentioned before. You can get the plugs off rockauto, and the coolant from any honda/acura parts counter.

The serpentine belt + tensioner are technically replaced on an as-needed interval. If it isn't making noise and there is still decent tension on the belt, I honestly wouldn't worry about it.

Lastly, I'd consider replacing your trans fluid (Honda DW-1), your front diff/transfer case fluid (Valvoline 75w-90, in the convenient squeezable pouch with a nozzle, from a meijer or walmart), and your rear diff fluid (DPS-F II from dealer) if your car is going to be in the shop. Obviously you can reference when each was last changed to determine if it's worthwhile. I would just consider it since the shop has already quoted you a fair price for the 105k service, and additional maintenance like those fluids would likely not cost a ton. Especially if you show up with them already in the car. Just my two cents though.

 

Man this is such a great recommendation! Exactly what I needed to hear. I'll definitely be bringing all of this for my mechanic. I appreciate it. Yes I definitely do plan to do the plugs since I'm sure they haven't been changed yet. I will also do the drain and fill for tranny.. should I also buy this from Rock Auto or from Honda and how many quarts do I need? I don't have AWD so I'm guessing those other fluids aren't necessary?

Lastly, you mentioned the serpentine belt.. I hear people say drive belt.. are those the same thing? You also mentioned the tensioner? I'm assuming both of these aren't part of the kit correct? I wouldn't mind doing this job as well I suppose.. is this one of those things that is easy to do since my mechanic will be doing the timing belt/water pump? Or it doesn't really matter?

 

In addition to this kit and replacing the timing belt, water pump, TB tensioner, tensioner pulley and idler pulley I would replace the serpentine/drive belt, upper/lower radiator hoses and as other have suggested, spark plugs, coolant and transmission fluid. I'd also recommend a brake fluid flush. The serpentine belt tensioner does not need to be replaced unless it's making noise or there's a lot of movement in the serpentine belt tensioner pulley while the engine is running. I always prioritize items that can leave you stranded if/when they fail so anything to do with the cooling system and timing belt are top priorities. Serpentine belt and radiators hoses that are 10 years old should be replaced. Brake fluid and transmission fluid replacement is a good idea to prolong the life of the transmission and brake system. You'll need 4 quarts for a drain/refill using Honda DW1 or Idemitsu type H plus fluid. There's also a small external transmission filter you should consider replacing.

 

By this logic, the radiator also needs to be replace, because on average a radiator lasts 5 years less than its hoses.

 

If you're talking about a low quality aftermarket radiator I would agree with you but the OEM Denso in the RDX is of decent quality.

 

There are statistics according to which the original radiator lives on average 10-15 years, and the original hoses 15-20. To be honest, I never see 15 year old Hodnas and Acuras that have a problem with hoses. But if you replace hoses on a 15-year-old car, then there is a high probability that the plastic radiator pipes will break, especially on a BMW or VAG

 

You can buy the DW-1 fluid at any Acura or Honda dealership from the parts counter. Not really sure if it'd be cheaper to go in beforehand and buy 4 qts of it (to cover a drain and fill) and have that ready in your car verses asking the service advisor for the trans fluid to be drained and filled once your car is already there, allowing them to charge whatever for it. Honda fluid tends to be cheaper, and it's the exact same thing you get at the Acura parts counter. Further, having them note the condition of the drained fluid will be essential in determining how many more drain and fills (if any) are needed. If the fluid is in worse-than-expected condition, you may look into replacing the trans filter. But I'd only do that if the fluid is indeed in bad condition, as it requires removing the battery tray to access it, racking up more labor cost on your end. Either way, if you only have the FWD version of the car, you don't need to worry about a transfer case or rear differential.

The serpentine/drive belt is indeed the same thing. They are both not part of the AISIN kit. At the very least, you can replace the belt itself for peace of mind (especially if it has any visual signs of wear). Otherwise, again, I don't really think it's worth throwing money at if it isn't broken. Your mechanic would be able to tell if it has lost tension or if it's making bearing noise or something. I would get a Gates replacement serpentine belt off rockauto, it's like $15. The belt itself needs to come off for this job, but not the tensioner. So it would be an easy replacement on the mechanic's part.

Also, contrary to what someone else said, I wouldn't worry about replacing coolant hoses unless you're experiencing issues or leaks. You'd again just be spending money on something that isn't broken and that can easily last the lifetime of the car. The first generation RDX had issues with coolant hose failures, though that is a turbo 4. The J series in this vehicle has a pretty great track record with cooling systems. If anything, the common failure point is the bearings in the water pump seizing up if the pump is way past its service life - and you shouldn't worry about that since you're replacing it on schedule

 

My car does run relatively quite. So I'm assuming based on what you've said along with what @DCS I probably don't really need to replace the drive belt tensioner. But since my mechanic will be doing the timing belt/water pump, the drive belt will need to be removed anyway so I might as well ask him to replace it. You mentioned Gates.. but I have heard of Bando as well. I think I read Bando was the OEM manufacturer for drive belts in Honda's? Is this true? If so, should I go Bando? I've heard good things about Gates and Continental as well so I mean.. I'm sure probably wouldn't go wrong either way. Thoughts?

I'll have my mechanic inspect my hoses if it doesn't need to be replaced I'll hold off on them for another time. I will also do a brake fluid flush. It's okay to hook it up to a flush machine for brakes right? Do I have to use Honda brake fluid as well? Or any Dot 4 will work? Lastly, what about power steering fluid? I've never replaced in the 6 years I've own it but it feels fine tbh. Again, car was purchased as a CPO, I just don't know if it was replaced then or not.

 

I actually don't know who the OEM supplier was for that part, I just referenced Gates because I have used them for the serpentine belt and have never had any issues. Unlike the timing belt itself, I'm sure any similar-priced option is fine for this. As for the brakes, dot 3 is what Honda recommends and what came from the factory, though if you do a lot of mountain driving where you're constantly heating up your brakes, you could use dot 4. I have used Lucas Oil full synthetic dot 3 in every one of our vehicles, it works great, and can be found at meijer or walmart for cheap. There's not much point in paying a premium for honda/acura branded conventional fluid. The lucas oil comes in 1qt bottles, and depending on the condition of your fluid, you can use anywhere from half a qt to a full 2 qts during a bleed. There are no issues with using a vacuum brake bleeder or any other method, as long as the master cylinder isn't ran dry/air is introduced to the system. I'd imagine your mechanic is well aware of that though lol. And fun fact, you don't have power steering fluid - all of these vehicles have an electric power steering system, you don't need to do anything with it. Definitely convenient during the timing belt job, being able to skip the step of removing the ps pump and getting that wonderful smelling fluid everywhere!

 

You mentioned "unlike the timing belt" that any belt similarly priced would work.. what did you mean by that? Are you saying the timing belt that comes with the Aisin kit should not be used? I should go Honda instead? If I'm not mistaken, it's Mitsuboshi in the Aisin kit correct? And yes ok I couldn't remember if it was dot 3 or 4. I'll definitely be using dot 3. Thanks!

 

Sorry for the wording. I just meant that the serpentine belt brand *isn't* as important as the timing belt brand. Yes, the timing belt in the Aisin kit is a great OEM replacement. You do not want to get "knock off" brands for the timing belt. But for the serpentine belt, you have more wiggle room with choosing different brands.

 

The serpentine is of course a lesser critical component that the timing belt. I do believe using quality brand belts is way better than cheaper knock offs. But unless that your in a middle of nowhere and your serpentine belt tears apart, it won't do any damage but draining your battery. Visual inspection of it every years is a good habit to spot cracks on it.

As for the brake fluid concerns, I think RDX uses DOT4. I have ever used DOT3 in few times I flushed the brake fluid. If the manual says you can use DOT3 then you are safe to do so otherwise you need to go with DOT4.

 

You can safely mix DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5.1.
Boiling point Dot 3 446F is outdated and not relevant
Boiling point Dot 4 464F cheap and relevant
Boiling point Dot 5.1 500F modern, but expensive

Take your pick.

 

Hey guys, revisiting this thread since it's almost time. I know, I don't drive very much (I work from home). I'm at about 103K so any week now the MID will pop up. I'm doing a bit more research on this kit and I've been reading that some people were complaining about this kit causing weird warbling noises? Do I have anything to worry about? Has anyone on here actually purchased this kit recently or within the last few years and either had the same issue or was everything all good? Doing a quick Google research "Honda V6 AISIN warbling noise" it appears to kind of be a "thing". Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

 

This amazing smart man's advice still stands, Buy from Rock Auto an Aisin Timing Belt Kit and all the related parts if you don't want to spring for OEM.

 

Yessir. I took your advice of course and purchased from RockAuto. Thank you though! Still curious about my previous question regarding "warbling" noises people have mentioned? Is it cause they got bad kits? Or using the Mitsuboshi timing belt instead of Honda or Unitta (I think that's the OEM, not sure)? Or just bad luck? LOL.

Anyways, just an FYI. Couple things I've noticed. I got the AISIN kit today. Solid looking kit for sure. Screams quality. The box itself is now brown not white. Water pump does have AISIN and Japan stamped on there. The hydraulic tensioner (the one with grenade pin) has AISIN in blue print. The idler bearing and tensioner bearing are now technically under JTEKT (not Koyo) and they both came in JTEKT boxes. However, the bearings themselves still say Koyo Japan on them. From what I've read, I have nothing to worry about here. One thing of note, the tensioner bearing was no longer orange/brown. Instead it is now blue, idler bearing is still orange/brown. Lastly, the belt was Mitsuboshi. Again, still on the fence on this one, not sure if I should buy the Honda one or not... seems to be fine based on the research I've done. Seems like it's a reputable brand and is even used on other Honda's as the "stock" serpentine belt from other models if I'm not mistaken. Thoughts?

Lastly, I read somewhere that people suggested since I'm already draining out the coolant and replacing with new coolant for this job (hopefully it's in the same area as doing the timing belt job too), that I might as well replace the thermostat as well. How do you guys feel about that? And, RockAuto didn't have an AISIN branded one so I'm curious which one you guys prefer? Aftermarket like Motorad or Fel-Pro or is the thermostat one of those things you just don't want to skimp on and just go OE Honda?

 

They recently replaced such a kit with another one; after 7 years and 80 thousand miles, the Mitsuboshi belt was in excellent condition and could work for the same amount of time. 2006 after the merger of Koyo Seiko Co. and Toyoda Machinery USA the JTEKT company appeared. This means that since 2006 Koyo = JTEKT. The only thing that could pose a risk to the engine is the tension, but before it breaks it should start tapping, so a careful user will have no problems at all.

 

t0md0,

At 105K miles: ASIN Kit, Spark plugs, drained radiator for a more thorough coolant replacement, drive belt.

At 210k Miles: All of the above again and added PVC valve replacement, thermostat replacement, and drive belt tensioner pulley replacement. I went to the local Honda dealer to get OEM for these additional components.

Now have 256K on the car and no problems.

 

What is a PVC valve replacement? Did you go OEM Honda for the drive belt as well?

As a side note, I was an idiot. I meant to buy the Gates drive/serpentine belt from RockAuto but my dumbass bought the Gates timing belt instead (guess I didn't switch out of the timing belt section). I intended to go with the one that came with the AISIN kit (Mitsuboshi). Anyway, looks like the Gates T329 timing belt I received was the Gates Unitta version that was made in Japan and not a regular Gates belt. I guess I'll just use this one instead. It was only $13 bucks and it would cost me half that to return it. Again, based on some research I've seen Honda's use Unitta and Mitsuboshi for their belts. So I think either one would be fine. I'm not sure which belts our car came with though... Anyone feel free to chime in if they know.

 

I purchased the Gates main drive belt from Rockauto. Never had a problem with them.

 

Personally i would use the TB that came in the Aisin kit instead of the Unitta one but that's just me

PCV Valve:https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...j6MXS2uVN6kWPd

it should sit right in front of the intake manifold




https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...j6MXS2uVN6kWPd

If you're dead set on Rock Auto, I'd go with the Gates Thermostat of all the options presented... Ideally, i'd go Honda/Acura OEM though.


Additionally, drive belt is Mitsobushi as OE

 

as soon as you pull off the water pump, most if not all of the coolant in the block will come out so make sure you drain the radiator first and cover the crankshaft position sensor (if your car has one) to not risk contamination.

 

Curious why you'd go with the TB from the AISIN Kit rather than the Unitta? Is that just more of a preference thing? I don't have a dog in the fight and would like to use one you guys recommend. As I said earlier, I probably won't return the Unitta one since shipping would take like half the cost lol. But if you guys all think I should use the Mitsuboshi TB instead, then I will.

And yeah, I think I'll just do what you suggested here as well and go with OEM Honda/Acura thermostat. I'm definitely not dead set on anything and would prefer to go with what people on here recommend. I'm all about saving money but I'm not going skimp on things I shouldn't.

Lastly, the PCV Valve. I have no idea what that is and just now learning about it. How often is this recommended to be replaced?

 

The AISIN kit is a tried and true replacement kit across these forums and facebook groups. There are countless success stories with that kit, and I have personally used it on 4 different J series motors with zero issues. It's the perfect middle ground between a painfully expensive OEM replacement, and a questionable quality, dirt cheap kit.

I'd agree with getting an OEM thermostat. It's a marginal amount more to pay in the grand scheme of things, when it comes to performance + peace of mind. The coolant will be out of the engine anyways, it's the perfect time for it. And you definitely don't want an aftermarket one failing a few thousand miles later, and having to drain all the coolant again just to replace that part.

Lastly, the PCV valve is a positive crankcase ventilation valve that basically helps prevent excess gases, oil, etc from building up outside of the combustion chamber. In my experience, the 2G RDX has had less issues that result in a sludged-up or seized PCV valve, but if you have a higher mileage RDX (100k+), it wouldn't hurt to change it. You *might* see a marginal increase in fuel mileage. Though at the least, it will keep up with preventing oil/carbon/etc buildup in your heads. This is a very commonly faked/counterfeited part, so I would buy OEM for sure. It also only takes about 10 minutes to replace, all you need is a flathead screwdriver and a 10mm ratchet. I would replace just after driving while the engine is hot, so it comes out easier.