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Our Norcal dealer didn't give us any license plate frames (thankfully) so I picked up one at the local auto parts store. I was surprised when I removed the temporary place to see there were only two screw holes; there is an indentation where the bottom two would be, but nothing is drilled out. My TL had a four-hole setup. So I have some questions:
1) Is it like this for everyone? Did anyone get a four-hole setup on delivery?
2) Has anyone drilled out the bottom two holes?
3) If you only have two screws attaching your plate/frame, do you have any problems with rattling?
Use one of those rubber frames to stop the vibrations. Same thing on my other car, got the frame from autozone.
Yes the soft rubber frame around the plate works great. Put it under the other frame I was usung. Also it protects paint from scratches. Found mine at Walmart.
1) Is it like this for everyone? Did anyone get a four-hole setup on delivery?
2) Has anyone drilled out the bottom two holes?
3) If you only have two screws attaching your plate/frame, do you have any problems with rattling?
1. Can't say. No.
2. Yes, punched through the hole with a small screwdriver. It's similar to installing splash guards.
3. N/A
This is what I purchased to replace the dealer license plate frame:
Didn't notice how many screws but sturdy and no rattling
Originally Posted by kfhughes
Our Norcal dealer didn't give us any license plate frames (thankfully) so I picked up one at the local auto parts store. I was surprised when I removed the temporary place to see there were only two screw holes; there is an indentation where the bottom two would be, but nothing is drilled out. My TL had a four-hole setup. So I have some questions:
1) Is it like this for everyone? Did anyone get a four-hole setup on delivery?
2) Has anyone drilled out the bottom two holes?
3) If you only have two screws attaching your plate/frame, do you have any problems with rattling?
This is what the lower left side looks like. I tried using a screwdriver to push through the hole on the right but it didn't give. The top holes have U-clips that hold the bolts, with a recess similar to the bottom left hole that they slide over. Obviously nothing like that on the right hole.
One thing surprises me is that Acura do not even bother to add a may be plastic plate to cover the cut opening on the tailgate, even my old CR-V replaced by RDX has whole piece of metal under the license plate, just 2 holes with plastic screw holder.
I under stand there must be some opening at the bottom of tailgate to let water out, how about I wash the car and aim the water at the part of tailgate where the license plate is?
Originally Posted by kfhughes
This is what the lower left side looks like. I tried using a screwdriver to push through the hole on the right but it didn't give. The top holes have U-clips that hold the bolts, with a recess similar to the bottom left hole that they slide over. Obviously nothing like that on the right hole.
1) Is it like this for everyone? Did anyone get a four-hole setup on delivery?
I only had two screws as well. The first time I went in for an oil change, I asked the dealer to install two screws on the bottom as I couldn't stand the rattling when closing the rear tailgate.
2) Has anyone drilled out the bottom two holes?
I believe just they drilled in two screws that lined up with the license plate and cover. When I have taken all 4 screws out, the bottom does not have any "bracket" or anything supporting the hole. It's just drilled into the body where the hole indications are.
3) If you only have two screws attaching your plate/frame, do you have any problems with rattling?
I did have lots of rattling - but only when closing the rear tailgate. But that was enough for me to do something about it. It was either add two screws (extremely frustrating I even have to do something like this) or get some double-sided tape/foam to secure the license plate to the rear tailgate.
In the plate bracket kit that comes with every RDX, there are FOUR screws for the back of the car. Unfortunately very few dealers install them.
(2) 10mm bolts for the top
(2) small silver very short self tapping screws for the bottom, that just need screwed into those indents you see at the bottom
Easy as could be, just need the bottom 2 screws. No more rattle or loose plate.
In the plate bracket kit that comes with every RDX, there are FOUR screws for the back of the car. Unfortunately very few dealers install them.
(2) 10mm bolts for the top
(2) small silver very short self tapping screws for the bottom, that just need screwed into those indents you see at the bottom
Easy as could be, just need the bottom 2 screws. No more rattle or loose plate.
Arn't the self tapping screws for the front bracket?
I believe just they drilled in two screws that lined up with the license plate and cover. When I have taken all 4 screws out, the bottom does not have any "bracket" or anything supporting the hole. It's just drilled into the body where the hole indications are.
...
Do you mean the they're just screwed into the sheet metal? That doesn't sound like a very good idea to me. You'll have bare metal that could be the starting place for some nasty rust.
Do you mean the they're just screwed into the sheet metal? That doesn't sound like a very good idea to me. You'll have bare metal that could be the starting place for some nasty rust.
I thought only the bumpers and front grill / fascia were plastic.
Taking a magnet and seeing where it sticks is a good way to see if it's steel. Of course, if it doesn't stick it could be a non-ferrous metal like aluminum but I'd bet on plastic.
Taking a magnet and seeing where it sticks is a good way to see if it's steel. Of course, if it doesn't stick it could be a non-ferrous metal like aluminum but I'd bet on plastic.
Lower portion of tailgate is same material as front and rear bumpers.
My 2014 RDX came with only two holes for the rear license plate. I had the dealer drill out the other two holes (free of charge) so I now have four screws holding the license plate, issue resolved.
I just installed the plate with all four bolts, so thought I would post an update. Yes, the material on the rear liftgate is plastic, something like ABS. It's about 1/4" thick right where the plate mounts. I originally tried to install some u-clips like the ones for the upper bolts, but because of the raised round area where the lower bolts or screws attach I couldn't get a flush fit. In the end, I drilled two holes using a 3/8" bit, which was just smaller than the thread diameter on the M10 bolts I was using, then carefully threaded the bolts into the holes using a nut driver bit. (A screw would have worked too but the head on the screws I had handy were larger than I wanted).
I actually messed up one hole trying to use the u-clips and drilled it out too large. I filled both holes back in using some Loctite epoxy putty, making the depth of the material a little deeper so the bolts have more material to grip.
The part number for the top u-clip is 90305-SDA-A01. However it may not work on the bottom unless your license plate holes are about 2" farther apart. The page shows self-tapping screws along with the bolts. As someone mentioned earlier, the screws would be for the bottom.
The part number for the top u-clip is 90305-SDA-A01. However it may not work on the bottom unless your license plate holes are about 2" farther apart. The page shows self-tapping screws along with the bolts. As someone mentioned earlier, the screws would be for the bottom.
I think it'll work. In Canada, In Ontario at least, the holes on the plates are large horizontal ovals to accomodate such things.
LOL - I just put my plates on yesterday and noticed that my tailgate plate has only 2 screws, but my front bumper plate has 4. Scratched my noggin, then forgot about it until I saw this post.
Screws into plastic, hopefully my image will work now.
Good picture, still doesn't explain why so many holes in the tailgate, I could understand one small hole for pressure equalization and evaporation, but so many? Looks like lots of water could get in, when going through a car wash, potentially rusting the bottom.
Btw, screw screws, I use rivets, nobody can steal my damn plates that way.
Good picture, still doesn't explain why so many holes in the tailgate, I could understand one small hole for pressure equalization and evaporation, but so many? Looks like lots of water could get in, when going through a car wash, potentially rusting the bottom.
Btw, screw screws, I use rivets, nobody can steal my damn plates that way.
Btw, screw screws, I use rivets, nobody can steal my damn plates that way.
ha ha. You sound like Al Pacino in "Heat" saying to his wife's lover caught in his bed with her.
"You can sleep in my bed and screw my wife, but you can't watch my TV"... And yanks the power cord off. . .... No offense meant.
Lol! That's funny. I need to go back and watch that movie again to catch the line; it's a great movie anyway.
Yeah, just purchased a very low mileage 2013 ILX and I also noticed only 2 holes for plate frame screws on rear bumper (4 in front mount). I'm looking for something slick to go with my crystal black pearl paint---I call her Black Beauty; I'm sure that's what everyone calls their fine, black Acuras. Anyways, I definitely want something rust proof and won't hurt the paint (if metal) as well as black anti-theft screws (also rust proof). Any suggestions? The black silicone frames seem interesting; certainly won't rust or hurt the paint . . . and maybe prevent/reduce rattling?