Hi Guys, mine is a 2013 Acura RDX with 260,000Km or 161,000 miles, the lower control arm bushings are showing some cracks, not completely torn.

Is it common to replace control arm at this age and mileage? do you replace just the bushing or entire arm?
Thank you

 

^

It looks like the bushes below (Base 2WD) are not sold separately & the LCA's are sold as assemblies?
Get the OEM part numbers and google search for best OEM's or aftermarket if they are available.
Front Knuckle - 2013 Acura RDX 5 Door BASE (2WD) KA 6AT

 

These are 12 year old cracks, don't touch it until it torn.

 

I had to replace the lower control arm bushings because the bolts holding the sway bar bushing bracket to the control arm snapped. They snapped like butter, these bolts are too small for rusty land in Ontario.
I had to replace the sway bar bushings due to a clunking noise and there was play in the bushings.
(OEM sway bar bushing 51306-TX4-A01, about $10CAD each).

Since you need to remove the entire control arm to drill and tap new holes for the sway bar bushing bracket. I decided to just replace with new bushings. OEM Honda bushings from Acura dealer are the best price, around $110 CAD tax included much lower than aftermarket. (51395-TX4-A01 and 51396-TX4-A01).

To remove the bushing from the control arm. I used a pulley/gear puller from Amazon PERFORMANCE TOOL W136P Wilmar 8 in. 3 Jaw Gear Puller.
I don't have a press to push back the bushing so I used two 24" carpentry clamps, make sure to lube the control shaft so the bushing can slide in easy.
I replaced the ball joints too since the control arms already out. I used Sankei 555 (SNK1843715) made in Japan. I was told this part is OEM, I can't confirm this, but the price is worth it, $50 vs $150 OEM.

The car runs like a dream now, so smooth over rough road.

 

^How long did it take you?

I installed a pair of new LCAs in a first-gen RDX last weekend. Took about 3 hours total start to finish. They were Mevotech-branded, came with new ball joints, and were about $110 each.

I've always felt those bushings weren't worth replacing given an entire control arm isn't that expensive. Funny enough I also broke one of the swaybar bushing bolts on this car, but since the old control arms were already being replaced it didn't matter. I use new bolts wherever possible since I work on rusty cars in New England.

 

Reminder that the pair of bolts labeled #21 in the diagram should be replaced and not reused per the shop manual.

 

I probably need 1 hour per side.
The hardest part for me was to press the bushing back into the control arm shaft. I couldn't find any video on youtube or forum. Then I figured out two long clamps method.

The entire OEM control arm is $450 CAD and $275 for Moog. For me $160 to just do the separate OEM bushing and Sankei ball joint.

I didn't replace those bolts as I didn't see rust and the threads are fine.
Make sure to torque the cross bolt #20 when the tire is on the ground.
Also coat the sway bar bracket bolts with lots of anti seize including the head. Otherwise they will rust and break again

 

Do the bolts 20 & 21 thread directly into the welded nuts in the subframe and don't use nuts?

 

Yes #20 thread directly to welded nut in the subframe.
#21 thread to the control arm bushing metal casing

 

Thanks for confirming. I recently had the 2 lower control arms replaced with Moog parts and they came with nuts for #20. But the bolts were not long enough for the nuts thread onto them completely.
So I was concerned if bolts were shorter than OEM bolts.

 

your RDX is 2 GEN? 2013 to 2018?
There's a nut in the subframe, how are you able to use the Moog nut and the subrame nut on the same bolt?

Can you just reuse the Honda bolt?

 

Mine is 2014.
I am attaching a photo of #20 with the nut. It did thread into the welded nut in the subframe.
A local Acura dealer I spoke to said these bolts don't come with nuts, but the Moog part had one for #20. So, this nut in photo may not even be needed?

 

I think they provide this extra nut incase the existing one is completely rusted out.

this video is a perfect example of when you need this nut. Start watching at the 6:50 mark

 

Moog might have included the wrong bolt.

The Mevotech kit that my customer bought included the correct subframe (#20) bolts.

Ontario_bass - you needed an hour per side including r&r of the old control arm and pressing out/in the old/new bushing?? If so that's impressive. Alldata quotes 2.3 hours on a first-gen RDX and I assume second-gen is similar.

Alternatively with the wheels still off: use a jack to push up on the ball joint & knuckle to simulate the weight of the car on its suspension before torqueing that bolt.