Calipers?
Calipers?
I need to replace original rear calipers on my 2014 AWD RDX with 444K miles.
Which brands are good choices for calipers? Rockauto has aftermarket Top Notch. Is this any good?
I will be replacing Rotors and pads as well.
I had great success with PowerStop K6939 which lasted me 140K miles.
Rear Rotors and pads are worn out. Front is still good. Don't know why.
Thanks.
Which brands are good choices for calipers? Rockauto has aftermarket Top Notch. Is this any good?
I will be replacing Rotors and pads as well.
I had great success with PowerStop K6939 which lasted me 140K miles.
Rear Rotors and pads are worn out. Front is still good. Don't know why.
Thanks.
I need to replace original rear calipers on my 2014 AWD RDX with 444K miles.
Which brands are good choices for calipers? Rockauto has aftermarket Top Notch. Is this any good?
I will be replacing Rotors and pads as well.
I had great success with PowerStop K6939 which lasted me 140K miles.
Rear Rotors and pads are worn out. Front is still good. Don't know why.
Thanks.
Which brands are good choices for calipers? Rockauto has aftermarket Top Notch. Is this any good?
I will be replacing Rotors and pads as well.
I had great success with PowerStop K6939 which lasted me 140K miles.
Rear Rotors and pads are worn out. Front is still good. Don't know why.
Thanks.
I had to replace a caliper on my 07 RTL last year and wound up buying local (NAPA) for no hassle of the core return and if any warranty issues happened to arise. It was a quality part and no issues since installation.
If PowerStop has served you well, is there any reason to change up? Everyone has their personal favorites...mine happens to be Bosch premium pads / rotots.
In my experience, Honda rears tend to wear faster than any other manufacturer...I guess it's the way they bias the front / back. My 07 RTL will wear out 2 sets of rears before the fronts wear out. Good Luck.
In general you get what you pay for, but the longevity of your calipers also depends on the entire braking system being properly maintained.
I replaced a rear caliper in a first-gen RDX this weekend - the brake line was clogged the caliper was seized. I have no doubt that the clogged brake line was the culprit and any brand of caliper would have had the same fate.
I would guess that Rock Auto is still a better deal than the local parts store even with shipping both ways (core return) factored in, but it's worth pricing out different options. I've heard from some that the parts store is a better deal over the long run because some places will let you warranty swap pads and rotors.
When it comes time to do my 1G RDX bakes I'll probably go with R1 or Powerstop.
I replaced a rear caliper in a first-gen RDX this weekend - the brake line was clogged the caliper was seized. I have no doubt that the clogged brake line was the culprit and any brand of caliper would have had the same fate.
I would guess that Rock Auto is still a better deal than the local parts store even with shipping both ways (core return) factored in, but it's worth pricing out different options. I've heard from some that the parts store is a better deal over the long run because some places will let you warranty swap pads and rotors.
When it comes time to do my 1G RDX bakes I'll probably go with R1 or Powerstop.
I need to replace original rear calipers on my 2014 AWD RDX with 444K miles.
Which brands are good choices for calipers? Rockauto has aftermarket Top Notch. Is this any good?
I will be replacing Rotors and pads as well.
I had great success with PowerStop K6939 which lasted me 140K miles.
Rear Rotors and pads are worn out. Front is still good. Don't know why.
Thanks.
Which brands are good choices for calipers? Rockauto has aftermarket Top Notch. Is this any good?
I will be replacing Rotors and pads as well.
I had great success with PowerStop K6939 which lasted me 140K miles.
Rear Rotors and pads are worn out. Front is still good. Don't know why.
Thanks.
Trending Topics
Mechanic replaced the rear calipers, rotors, pads, bled brakes.
I now have a spongy brake followed by normal.
Brakes were bled 4 times as level of fluid got low and I got alerts about it along with VSA, Power steering and hill assist.
Must have used about 48 ounces of DOT 4 fluid.
All of these cleared overnight without further intervention.
No leaks. Fluid reservoir is full now.
First time I hit the brakes, it feels spongy/soft. Second time it is normal. Then it repeats when I try next time.
I ran a test with engine off. Pumping the brakes made the pedal hard to push down. But after turning engine on, the first pump of the brakes was spongy.
Can this be resolved now with an ABS bleed or is there something else to look at?
Thanks.
I now have a spongy brake followed by normal.
Brakes were bled 4 times as level of fluid got low and I got alerts about it along with VSA, Power steering and hill assist.
Must have used about 48 ounces of DOT 4 fluid.
All of these cleared overnight without further intervention.
No leaks. Fluid reservoir is full now.
First time I hit the brakes, it feels spongy/soft. Second time it is normal. Then it repeats when I try next time.
I ran a test with engine off. Pumping the brakes made the pedal hard to push down. But after turning engine on, the first pump of the brakes was spongy.
Can this be resolved now with an ABS bleed or is there something else to look at?
Thanks.
What do you mean by "spongy"?
When the engine is off, the first press of the brake pedal uses the remaining vacuum in the brake booster, and the second press is the direct action of the cylinder without assistance. If all subsequent presses with the engine off are hard, it means there is no air in the lines.
When the engine is off, the first press of the brake pedal uses the remaining vacuum in the brake booster, and the second press is the direct action of the cylinder without assistance. If all subsequent presses with the engine off are hard, it means there is no air in the lines.
I meant soft and the pedal goes down a bit more than normal for me. Second press is firm. A minute later repeat the sequence.
This was never the case before the brakes were worked on.
Is this because air got into ABS and I need to do an ABS bleed?
Thanks.
This was never the case before the brakes were worked on.
Is this because air got into ABS and I need to do an ABS bleed?
Thanks.
I think the problem isn't in the air, but in one of the calipers or incorrectly installed pads. You need to take clamps, sequentially squeeze the hose on each wheel and check the pressure to find the culprit.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SilverPhoenix
2G CL (2001-2003)
25
Mar 3, 2016 01:24 PM









