00w20 oil????
00w20 oil????
I've had my 2013 RDX for about a month now and sure do enjoy it.
Soon I'll be taking it in for its first oil & filter change. While waiting for delivery I asked the service dept. what they got for oil & filter service and was told about 60 bucks.
When asked why so high I was told it was because this new engine uses a special weight of oil, 00w20 weight and it costs more per quart.
Was he blowing smoke up my...... somewhere?
And, if it does come with that weight oil, will putting a normal weight, say 10w30 harm the engine and/or void the warranty?
I know, I could read the manual but I'm lazy.
Thanks
Soon I'll be taking it in for its first oil & filter change. While waiting for delivery I asked the service dept. what they got for oil & filter service and was told about 60 bucks.

When asked why so high I was told it was because this new engine uses a special weight of oil, 00w20 weight and it costs more per quart.
Was he blowing smoke up my...... somewhere?
And, if it does come with that weight oil, will putting a normal weight, say 10w30 harm the engine and/or void the warranty?
I know, I could read the manual but I'm lazy.
Thanks
That is correct, we're supposed to use 0W20 engine oil. It might be $60 but you spent around $40K on your new vehicle so what is $60 twice a year to keep your vehicle running as it should. You spend more than $60 going out for drinks and dinner
Go with 0w20 motor oil, per the recommendations of the owner's manual (see the oil cap too - it's written there). And, use synthetic if at all possible, starting with the first oil change and forever after - if you want the engine to last a long, long time.
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I've had my 2013 RDX for about a month now and sure do enjoy it.
Soon I'll be taking it in for its first oil & filter change. While waiting for delivery I asked the service dept. what they got for oil & filter service and was told about 60 bucks.
When asked why so high I was told it was because this new engine uses a special weight of oil, 00w20 weight and it costs more per quart.
Was he blowing smoke up my...... somewhere?
And, if it does come with that weight oil, will putting a normal weight, say 10w30 harm the engine and/or void the warranty?
I know, I could read the manual but I'm lazy.
Thanks
Soon I'll be taking it in for its first oil & filter change. While waiting for delivery I asked the service dept. what they got for oil & filter service and was told about 60 bucks.

When asked why so high I was told it was because this new engine uses a special weight of oil, 00w20 weight and it costs more per quart.
Was he blowing smoke up my...... somewhere?
And, if it does come with that weight oil, will putting a normal weight, say 10w30 harm the engine and/or void the warranty?
I know, I could read the manual but I'm lazy.
Thanks
Take the time...doesn't take much....and look in your manual about the oil and it shows a chart for the temp. range. Anywhere you live in the U.S. you will be good to go.
NO...that price for an oil change is not normal....they are switching you to synthetic oil and it's NOT necessary at all. That is BS that the regular organic oil costs more because it's 0W20 and therefore special. I'm an engine man and have taught every engine in tech schools and for aircraft company's.
I know this for a fact too. The 0W20 oil that is put in at the factory is a little different for engine break in purposes. That's why they always tell you WAIT until the system tells you it's time to change the oil. They want it left in there as long as possible so it can do what it was set up to do. They put some extra additives in that oil so it will help in the "wear in --break in" process of the new engine. That's a fact....take it to the bank.
You can without a doubt....continue to use organic 0W20 oil and you do NOT have to use synthetic oil unless you choose to. You can take that to the bank too!
If you keep your cars for a long time and want to use synthetic then do so.
Also, I do my oil service at my old Honda dealer. Normally $29.99....and I get ALL A1 service done.....brake pads measured, tire tread depth measured, full inspection, fluids topped off, service book annotated, signed and seal stamped. I have 1 service person that does all my service work...on both my Acuras. He has access to the Acura service web site and can look up any ongoing TSB's....service notes, etc. Not all "oil changers" at Honda dealerships can have that access, but, he is the shop mgr. and has every certification he can possibly get from Honda Motor Corp. He will do my oil changes and inspections for me because I ask him to...and he has become a friend over the past few years. I've owned 5 Hondas in the past 6 years, and only he has worked on them.
I would NOT change the weight of the oil. Why would you want to except that you are still not used to the "new" oil weights. I was that way a couple years ago, until I learned more from the Honda regional service techs, read more and more about the newer engines, etc.
It's the new "normal." Period. Do you really think that Honda/Acura would tell you to put regular organic 0W20 oil in their engines...at all temperature ranges if it would harm the engines??? Not even!
Read the manual....read the top of the oil cap....what do they all say???? USE 0W20 weight oil that contain the proper additives. The seal shows what they mean....it's in the book and on the oil containers.
If you have questions after this, then ask me. But, hopefully this was clear enough for anyone who is, for whatever reasoning, doubting why they are supposed to be using 0W20 weight oil.
Colorady Guy is correct - go with 0w20. But also - if you intend to keep your car for many, many miles - go with synthetic engine oil too. It will extend the life of your engine, at marginal extra cost.
I purchase the oil I want at my local auto parts store, and make sure whoever is doing the oil change uses it.
I purchase the oil I want at my local auto parts store, and make sure whoever is doing the oil change uses it.
Colorady Guy is correct - go with 0w20. But also - if you intend to keep your car for many, many miles - go with synthetic engine oil too. It will extend the life of your engine, at marginal extra cost.
I purchase the oil I want at my local auto parts store, and make sure whoever is doing the oil change uses it.
I purchase the oil I want at my local auto parts store, and make sure whoever is doing the oil change uses it.
So, that kinda pokes big holes in...."if you want to keep your vehicles for many years and get 2 or 3 hundred thousand miles on the engine you need synthetic oil." I've never believed that to be true. Just keep the oil clean and always change the filter. His car is not the only one over the years that attained huge mileage numbers by just changing with carbon based oil and a new filter regularly.
It's totally different if the engine comes from the factory with the manufacturer stating that the engine MUST have synthetic then that's what you do to preserve the warranty. Personally I'd need to talk to an engine engineer and explain to me why a mass produced engine like the Acura V-6's must have synthetic. The 3.5 RDX doesn't. Nor do most all the V-6's that Honda Motor Corp. builds. But, that's just me. I'm an old gearhead....from my first Chevy V8 to other GM V8's, to foreign high performance, to regular performance foreign and domestic vehicles, to diesel engines, to turbine engines of all sizes.....all fun to study and teach.
My personal experience with synthetic lubricants is very, very favorable - effectively doubling engine life of a number of V8s and 6s, all of which I ran for about 200K each with only normal maintenance. I think of it as cheap insurance; most of the cost of an oil change is labor, the difference with synthetic is relatively small - especially so, if you buy your own. $5 vs $2-3 isn't a big deal overall.
Each to his own...
Each to his own...
It's not only Honda but many other mfg's are switching to 0W20.It seems to be the new oil of choice.I think the extended oil changes have a lot to do with it.I do my own oil changes and have always used fossil oil with never any engine problems since 1969.I don't mean to argue with anyone on here,but 0W20 is only available in synthetic,so your oil changes will cost more.Honda does sell a synthetic blend,don't know who makes it.If someone knows of 0W20 in fossil only,please tell me the brand name and where we can buy it.
It's not only Honda but many other mfg's are switching to 0W20.It seems to be the new oil of choice.I think the extended oil changes have a lot to do with it.I do my own oil changes and have always used fossil oil with never any engine problems since 1969.I don't mean to argue with anyone on here,but 0W20 is only available in synthetic,so your oil changes will cost more.Honda does sell a synthetic blend,don't know who makes it.If someone knows of 0W20 in fossil only,please tell me the brand name and where we can buy it.
My dealer also buys Mobil1 0W20 in bulk and only charges $50.00,which includes wash and vac.I have been buying new cars since 1969 and this Acura dealer is hands down better than any other dealer I have used in my life.
I know that conventional oil is all that a person needs,I'm not debating that.Conventional oil is my first choice,but it is not available in 0W20.So expect to pay more for oil changes.
I know that conventional oil is all that a person needs,I'm not debating that.Conventional oil is my first choice,but it is not available in 0W20.So expect to pay more for oil changes.
It's not only Honda but many other mfg's are switching to 0W20.It seems to be the new oil of choice.I think the extended oil changes have a lot to do with it.I do my own oil changes and have always used fossil oil with never any engine problems since 1969.I don't mean to argue with anyone on here,but 0W20 is only available in synthetic,so your oil changes will cost more.Honda does sell a synthetic blend,don't know who makes it.If someone knows of 0W20 in fossil only,please tell me the brand name and where we can buy it.
So, if you folks don't think I'm getting all I should for my Acura at a Honda dealer....my shop leader is THE top serv. tech there and has access to the Acura service site for the latest info....TSB's, etc. I'm not missing a thing, and it costs me much less than at an Acura dealer. Mine is 60 miles away so I wouldn't go there anyway for service. Warranty...of course....I have to!
I know many who have Acuras and go to the Honda dealers for servicing.
Honda dealers have fossil 0W20, at least mine does, and I would think that others do too. I haven't been to an auto parts store to buy oil for quite some time....but, I'm guessing that they too have fossil 0W20. I'd bet on it. If you can't find it...well, that seems strange.
It seems like Acura dealers are pushing synthetic to make a bigger profit margin...but, they could be stocking fossil oils if they wanted to....just like my Honda dealer.
So, if you folks don't think I'm getting all I should for my Acura at a Honda dealer....my shop leader is THE top serv. tech there and has access to the Acura service site for the latest info....TSB's, etc. I'm not missing a thing, and it costs me much less than at an Acura dealer. Mine is 60 miles away so I wouldn't go there anyway for service. Warranty...of course....I have to!
I know many who have Acuras and go to the Honda dealers for servicing.
Regards, Jim
Synthetic blends also provide better lubrication than simple fossil oils - and if available in 0w20, would be a good choice for the RDX.
The problem with fossil motor oils is often the 'viscosity modifiers' - the additives used to make the oil thicker or thinner, depending on temperature. These modifiers break down quickly - where synthetic oils do not.
The problem with fossil motor oils is often the 'viscosity modifiers' - the additives used to make the oil thicker or thinner, depending on temperature. These modifiers break down quickly - where synthetic oils do not.
I've had my 2013 RDX for about a month now and sure do enjoy it.
Soon I'll be taking it in for its first oil & filter change. While waiting for delivery I asked the service dept. what they got for oil & filter service and was told about 60 bucks.
When asked why so high I was told it was because this new engine uses a special weight of oil, 00w20 weight and it costs more per quart.
Was he blowing smoke up my...... somewhere?
And, if it does come with that weight oil, will putting a normal weight, say 10w30 harm the engine and/or void the warranty?
I know, I could read the manual but I'm lazy.
Thanks
Soon I'll be taking it in for its first oil & filter change. While waiting for delivery I asked the service dept. what they got for oil & filter service and was told about 60 bucks.

When asked why so high I was told it was because this new engine uses a special weight of oil, 00w20 weight and it costs more per quart.
Was he blowing smoke up my...... somewhere?
And, if it does come with that weight oil, will putting a normal weight, say 10w30 harm the engine and/or void the warranty?
I know, I could read the manual but I'm lazy.
Thanks
You could also go to Costco and get 0w20 Mobil 1. They just had a sale for case of 6 qts at $26. I think that is pretty good. Just got three cases for my car and my son's Civic Si (he needs 5w30), I am such a nice Dad, but I do make him pay me back for it.
Last edited by Chas2; Mar 8, 2013 at 03:51 PM.
Has anyone tried amsoil engine oil? I have tried their Amsoil Manual Transmission Oil and I can feel a big difference, so much smoother when changing the gear. I am thinking to try their syn oil.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ont%2foez.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ont%2foez.aspx
Okay lets pretend that I'm really anal and have money to burn and therefore decide to change the oil every 5000 miles regardless of the percentage factor. How does the computer adjust to this new paradigm, or does it just skew everything?
Depending on how you drive 5k can be ~30% or 15%, might as well wait.
Well I actually just picked that number out of thin air. Was actually thinking more like 3000. How does one reset the oil life meter?
recommended oil weight
Doesn't the oil play a important role on how the engine reduces the number of cylinders needs to meet current power requirements. I would assume that heavier oil will change how this system of pins react. Does someone know how to test this?
Non synthetic 0W20 is the 1st suggested oil for Hondas and Acuras. It's in the Owner's Manual. Synthetic is optional.
I got "mail" from the dealership where I bought my TSX Spec. Ed. They were offering coupons for lots of things.....for oil.....they offered non-synthetic for $29.95 full service....and for synthetic $69.95...which is still too much. They like to make more money on the synthetic!
So, that proves what I had written about earlier....Honda and Acura dealers do carry 0W20 organic oil. You can buy it by the quart too, from the parts dept.
Again, for everyone......organic 0W20 oil is THE first recommended oil for my '13 RDX and for my TSX. It's in the Owner's Manual. Synthetic is OPTIONAL. My Acura dealer....and my Honda dealer backs that up with their vehicles too.
This should put this issue to sleep.....but, somehow I bet it won't. Maybe in some places...or some dealers may not buy the organic oil....SO...they can sell you the synthetic and charge high dollars for it. I know that's the case at many Acura dealers around the country.
So, that proves what I had written about earlier....Honda and Acura dealers do carry 0W20 organic oil. You can buy it by the quart too, from the parts dept.
Again, for everyone......organic 0W20 oil is THE first recommended oil for my '13 RDX and for my TSX. It's in the Owner's Manual. Synthetic is OPTIONAL. My Acura dealer....and my Honda dealer backs that up with their vehicles too.
This should put this issue to sleep.....but, somehow I bet it won't. Maybe in some places...or some dealers may not buy the organic oil....SO...they can sell you the synthetic and charge high dollars for it. I know that's the case at many Acura dealers around the country.
Last edited by Colorado Guy AF Ret.; Mar 21, 2013 at 12:00 AM.
Correction and Apology:
I mistakenly stated that there is 0W20 weight "conventional" oil...or "organic oil." There is NOT. Maybe partially anyway.
After doing research with the Parts Mgr. at Honda, studying what the engine oil manufacturers explain on their web sites, etc, I have learned that I was mostly wrong.
I'll try and be as brief as possible.
0W20 weight oil can be 2 things: 1. A "Blended Synthetic that is of higher quality than "organic" oil. 2. A "Full Synthetic...like Mobil 1.
Now...what's in the "blend" is not out there for general consumption...but, it's properties are of a higher quality and it's engine protection is much better than the old "conventional motor oil."
Honda Motor Corp. came up with it's "blended oil" in 0W20 to help with fuel economy and help meet the Govt's. CAFE standards....BUT, it is a high quality oil. Other oil company's also have "blended synthetic oils."
In 5W20 you can buy; conventional oil, blended synthetic and full synthetic.
What fooled me and maybe others here is that the word "blended" was not used anywhere that I know of. So, in the manual when it says what oil to use....it talks about "standard API approved oil" is the 1st....OK choice to use and that "synthetic is optional." Well....the 1st choice oil is a "blended synthetic." So, for me I thought it was "organic...conventional oil."
So...to try and sum up. No one....no one should be "afraid of using "blended 0W20 weight oil." It is a high quality motor oil...better than "organic oil" and it is what the engines were tested with in subzero climates as well as climates with very high avg. temps. In short --It's perfectly safe.
Now..."blended synthetic oil" does not last as long as "full synthetic oil." But, it does last longer than the old "organic oil."
Many here want to buy "full synthetic" and talk about longer times between oil changes, etc.
Here is one key issue to remember and take note of.
When the MID display tells you that the oil is down to....oh...10%, 15%.....meaning it's time to change the oil....you may have approx. 6,000 miles on the oil. Well within the "blended synthetic" oils capabilities. BUT ---the computer is also keeping track of other "service requirements" beyond just the A1 service.
So, those that want to use "full synthetic" and change at 10,000 or so miles....they are throwing off the computer in their vehicles for the other "timed" service needs of the vehicle.
Staying with the computer and it telling us when it's time to change oil....is the smarter thing to do...to keep in line the time periods that will come up later for the other "service requirements."
For older vehicles that don't have the computer systems set up to show when it's time for certain types of service....then using "full synthetic oil" makes sense IF you want to extend the life of the engine.
Also...there is absolutely no need to change the weight of the oil....to say...5W20 as some feel the "need" to do. It's not necessary at all.
We all have to learn...as I finally have....that the NEW blended synthetic oils....esp. the 0W20 that is called for in our Honda Motor Corp. vehicles is more than adequate to protect our engines in ALL climates.
I hope this clears up my mistakes....and maybe puts some kind of closure to this HUGE topic that is talked about in the TL section...as well as many other Acura sections....as well as other auto manufacturers blog sites. This subject is huge!!!! And what I wrote here was my attempt at simplifying the subject.
Thank you guys and gals....I hope I did it right this time...and I truly believe I did....and I hope it helps.
I again apologize for some of the erroneous information that I had mistakenly written about earlier.
Take care!!!
I mistakenly stated that there is 0W20 weight "conventional" oil...or "organic oil." There is NOT. Maybe partially anyway.
After doing research with the Parts Mgr. at Honda, studying what the engine oil manufacturers explain on their web sites, etc, I have learned that I was mostly wrong.
I'll try and be as brief as possible.
0W20 weight oil can be 2 things: 1. A "Blended Synthetic that is of higher quality than "organic" oil. 2. A "Full Synthetic...like Mobil 1.
Now...what's in the "blend" is not out there for general consumption...but, it's properties are of a higher quality and it's engine protection is much better than the old "conventional motor oil."
Honda Motor Corp. came up with it's "blended oil" in 0W20 to help with fuel economy and help meet the Govt's. CAFE standards....BUT, it is a high quality oil. Other oil company's also have "blended synthetic oils."
In 5W20 you can buy; conventional oil, blended synthetic and full synthetic.
What fooled me and maybe others here is that the word "blended" was not used anywhere that I know of. So, in the manual when it says what oil to use....it talks about "standard API approved oil" is the 1st....OK choice to use and that "synthetic is optional." Well....the 1st choice oil is a "blended synthetic." So, for me I thought it was "organic...conventional oil."
So...to try and sum up. No one....no one should be "afraid of using "blended 0W20 weight oil." It is a high quality motor oil...better than "organic oil" and it is what the engines were tested with in subzero climates as well as climates with very high avg. temps. In short --It's perfectly safe.
Now..."blended synthetic oil" does not last as long as "full synthetic oil." But, it does last longer than the old "organic oil."
Many here want to buy "full synthetic" and talk about longer times between oil changes, etc.
Here is one key issue to remember and take note of.
When the MID display tells you that the oil is down to....oh...10%, 15%.....meaning it's time to change the oil....you may have approx. 6,000 miles on the oil. Well within the "blended synthetic" oils capabilities. BUT ---the computer is also keeping track of other "service requirements" beyond just the A1 service.
So, those that want to use "full synthetic" and change at 10,000 or so miles....they are throwing off the computer in their vehicles for the other "timed" service needs of the vehicle.
Staying with the computer and it telling us when it's time to change oil....is the smarter thing to do...to keep in line the time periods that will come up later for the other "service requirements."
For older vehicles that don't have the computer systems set up to show when it's time for certain types of service....then using "full synthetic oil" makes sense IF you want to extend the life of the engine.
Also...there is absolutely no need to change the weight of the oil....to say...5W20 as some feel the "need" to do. It's not necessary at all.
We all have to learn...as I finally have....that the NEW blended synthetic oils....esp. the 0W20 that is called for in our Honda Motor Corp. vehicles is more than adequate to protect our engines in ALL climates.
I hope this clears up my mistakes....and maybe puts some kind of closure to this HUGE topic that is talked about in the TL section...as well as many other Acura sections....as well as other auto manufacturers blog sites. This subject is huge!!!! And what I wrote here was my attempt at simplifying the subject.
Thank you guys and gals....I hope I did it right this time...and I truly believe I did....and I hope it helps.
I again apologize for some of the erroneous information that I had mistakenly written about earlier.
Take care!!!
So...to try and sum up. No one....no one should be "afraid of using "blended 0W20 weight oil." It is a high quality motor oil...better than "organic oil" and it is what the engines were tested with in subzero climates as well as climates with very high avg. temps. In short --It's perfectly safe.
We've been taking our 2006 TL to Acura for service all 7 years we've owned it. From the very first service, they've always used blended oil, albeit 5W-something for this car. The engine still purrs like a kitten. And we typically follow the alert provided on the MID, perhaps a few hundred miles past.





