Have a 2001 CL-S with 64k miles on it.
The rotors have been cut twice already -& at $100.00 a shot I want new better ones.
Has anybody had experience with " EBC Brake Disc" rotors

Front Brake Disc Set, Drilled and Slotted Sport Rotors, Sold As Pair, 11.8" Diameter, Dimpled Hole Construction Reduces Cracking, Wider Slots Expel Gases and Stay Cooler $239.18 pr free shipping
or can anybody recommend rotors that will fit that isn't to expensive
I don't race the car just tired of the vibrating brake & steering wheel
I figure betters rotors will stay cooler & last longer
thanks all

 

How about some Rotoras?

https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/rotora-rotors-groupbuy-cl-tl-tsx-311757/

 

I don't know if it's just me. My stock rotors warped on me. Changed all four to EBC rotors and EBC Green stuff. Warped on me in maybe 2K miles, took them back and have them resurface the rotor, last a little while and warped again. So I went and changed the front end to Rotoras with Axxis pads. Religiously break them in for 500 miles before starting to get rougher, warped in about 3000 miles. I've talked to some people and found out about the cyro-treated Power-slot rotors, the cyrp-treatment or 300 below zero deep freezing of the metal is suppose to make the metal alot denser and stronger thus resisting warpping. Maybe you can check that out before blowing your money like I did. I am still waiting for them to come in the mail, should be here this week and will install them myself this weekend......... Keeping my fingers crossed, if this still warps, the last thing I am going to go for would have to be the big disc brembo/piston caliper upgrade that would cost probably $3000+..........

 

yea i am feel your pain i changed my rotors to some brembos and after 1,500 miles i felt the steering wheel still vibrate when i braked. I did run into a couple of idiots tho that messed up my breaking in process but nothin i dont think would warp my rotors so easily seeing how they were brand new. I guess these cars just suck with there braking systems

 

Any word on how those Power-slot rotors are working out for you?

 

I had Rotora's. They were great. Never had a problem with them.

 

Sorry, haven't been checking here since I got the Power-slotted rotors. Guess why? They are awesome!!! No more warping, I even went back to my old slam on the accelerator and slam on the brakes driving and my brake pads are now wearing out pretty good now, I think, but the rotors are still fine, not even slight vibrations. Now, for those who didn't read what I"ve posted before, this aren't the regular Power Slot rotors, this are cyro-treated, frozen at 300 below to harden the metal. So for those who are still looking for rotors for your car that won't warp, I am confident from my own experience and hundreds to thousands of dollars wasted that this cyro-treated rotors would solve your problem!!!

 

Can you post a link to the rotors and pads. I'm lookin for rear ones since they are due to be replaced. Also, any squeaking/noise issues? My co-workers son got some performance breaks: they stop fine but they squeak. Another thing, can those Powerslots be resurfaced?

Thanks in advance

 

http://www.frozenrotors.com/

The above link is where I got my from, I got the front ones only because the back ones that are the regular rotora slotted are fine since most of the braking stress are in the front. I don't think you need to waste the extra money on the rear ones except to get something performance wise to match the front ones. I am running the axxis ceramic brake pads all around. You can get that pretty much anywhere. One advise I have though through a lot of research on brakes is that don't get the drilled rotors, only slotted. Drilled rotors actually have less surface area for the braking so they don't brake as good, that's why you never see drilled rotors on actual race cars. Also, because the drilled rotors cool off a lot faster, that could cause pre-mature metal fatique problems leading to warpping or even cracked rotors.
About squeaking noises, from talking to a lot of mechanics and some race car drivers plus a lot of reading, the higher performance the brakes are, the more chance that they will squeaking. Also, the higher performance the brakes are, the worst they perform when the rotors and brakes are still cold. That's why sometimes, you hear that before a race, professional drivers not only have to warm up their tires, but also their brakes. I am not going to even try to pretend I am an expert and understands exactly all the detail reasoning is behind all that, but more than one mechanic and documents have said the exact same thing so I believe it.
If you are like me knowledge wise, then let me make it easier for you. My setup has been great so for in wet, cold, warm, hot, pretty much all around street driving to normal street racing conditions. So I am just going to give you my setup and see if you want to do it that way. Front end are the slotted Power-slot cyro-treated rotors with ceramic axxis http://www.zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm. I got the Ultimate ones. Rear are the regular rotora slotted rotors. I installed them all myself so I paid special attention on applying the layer of stop squeak lubricant that I just picked up at a local pep boys. So far, after I believe over a year and at least 10 to 12 thousand miles since I've put everything on, they haven't squeak on me yet. I think the pads are almost out already but no vibrations, no warpping, no noise from the rotors (knock on wood). I am really happy with them. Only complain if I have to find something to complain about is the brake dust. My front end rims go from chrome to black in about 3 to 5 days. I definitely recommend the cyro-treated rotors, but as for the brake pads and the rear end setup, you can use something else if you prefer. I use axxis because axxis are actually from Rotora and my rear end are Rotora rotors and front end are Power-slot rotors which are also made by Rotora before they were cyro-treated. Hope this helps.

 

Also, any rotors that are drilled or slotted should not be resurfaced. You can do it, but it's not recommended. The cyro-treatment on the rotors making the metal denser is also suppose to prolong the life of both your rotor and your brake pads. Oh yeah, also, stopping performance on the setup I have now is amazing at less for me and I constantly drive between 100 to 120 even when I am not racing anyone.

 

These are the same rotors offered by tire rack at $123 apiece (compared to $134.42 as listed on the web site hyperlinked above). Appreciate the information and feedback on these units. I had swapped out my OEM rotors after over 50K miles (no warpage at all) and only got about 30K miles out of the Rotoras before they showed signs of warpage. Have gone back to the stock front rotors because they have proven to be better (to me) than the Rotora front units, and had been wondering about these. Will be placing my order shortly.