Replacing Front Springs - How to Remove Front Strut?
#1
Burning Brakes
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Replacing Front Springs - How to Remove Front Strut?
I am following the detailed instructions in this post:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=diy+spring
Working on the front wheel, I took off the bolts at the top of the shock tower, the 2 bolts on the suspension yolk, and now the strut is expanded to a point of which I cannot seem to remove the suspension yolk to get the whole assembly out. It's pressing down and I cannot seem to lift it to get the yolk to clear the rest of the suspension components.
Anyone have any pointers?
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=diy+spring
Working on the front wheel, I took off the bolts at the top of the shock tower, the 2 bolts on the suspension yolk, and now the strut is expanded to a point of which I cannot seem to remove the suspension yolk to get the whole assembly out. It's pressing down and I cannot seem to lift it to get the yolk to clear the rest of the suspension components.
Anyone have any pointers?
#4
I Drive Like A Dick 8≈
Spring compressor is needed for the back but not the fronts, or at least I didn't need them to change mine out but it was a bitch of a job to do.
#5
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I just did mine last week, and yes spring compressor, get it and use it.
however to get your strut out. leave the bolts in at the top, then just pull and twist down on the fork. it should work. but the compressor might help
however to get your strut out. leave the bolts in at the top, then just pull and twist down on the fork. it should work. but the compressor might help
#7
Show us a pic. That would help. I don't really understand why it wouldn't come out. You do know that the strut is supposed to separate from that yoke, right? There should be plenty of room once you unbolt that yoke from the LCA. Also how many nuts did you take off at the top of the strut tower? You are not supposed to take off the one in the middle.
When I changed my suspension one of the bolts on the bottom LCA was seized so I ended up unbolting the nut on the top of the steering knuckle and that gave me a lot more room to work with. I hope was of some help. Good luck!
When I changed my suspension one of the bolts on the bottom LCA was seized so I ended up unbolting the nut on the top of the steering knuckle and that gave me a lot more room to work with. I hope was of some help. Good luck!
Last edited by shoemaker.125; 07-02-2011 at 10:12 PM.
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#9
Whats up with RDX owners?
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This is old so this probably wont help OP, but a little trick I learned to make things smoother is lift both sides of the car into the air and unbolt both sides of the strut from the fork. The issue I was running into early on lies with the sway bar. It keeps the lower arms in line, and when one strut assembly is unbolted while the other side is still bolted in, the sway bar would hold the unbolted side at the same level as the bolted in side.
I probably didnt make any sense explaining that though.
In short - either unbolt both strut forks at the same time to relieve the pressure from the opposite side, or unbolt the sway bar from the endlinks so you can get the extra range of motion to remove the suspension.
I probably didnt make any sense explaining that though.
In short - either unbolt both strut forks at the same time to relieve the pressure from the opposite side, or unbolt the sway bar from the endlinks so you can get the extra range of motion to remove the suspension.
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CLSspeedx (08-04-2011)
#10
Strut removal
Spring compressor is not needed, Use a pry bar to push down on the lower control arm, but be careful not to let the axel slide out of the middle joint. You can always remove the upper control arm for additional clearance, only two bolts to remove.
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