DIY: Springs & Shocks (Mods Can Archive if needed)
04-06-2004, 06:22 PM
#1
Adventurist.
Thread Starter
DIY: Springs & Shocks (Mods Can Archive if needed)
DIY: Spring & Strut/Shock Install for 3.2 CL (since I cannot find a record of this DIY on the A-CL forums)
Overview: A detailed step-by-step installation guide for aftermarket springs and shocks for the 3.2 CL. Should also apply to 98-02 Accord and 3.2 TL.
Personal View: Make sure you have all your tools ready and there (I provided a list, but I’m not responsible for forgetting the small, misc. items), you don’t want to find yourself stuck in the middle of a job with a tool you don’t have. Installation of this type is relatively easy, if you know what you’re doing and have a helping hand (you do not want to accomplish this task alone). If you feel uncomfortable with this, go to a mechanic and get it professionally installed.
Installed with: I chose H&R Sport Springs and Bilstein Sport Shocks for my vehicle. My reasoning? Well, to mention I have this same combo on my last few cars, it provides the best looks and performance IMHO. The springs provide the “rail car” feeling and provide an even “look” unlike others (CT, Eibach, etc.). H&R and Bilstein is known for providing the best non-adjustable shocks in the world (period), in fact, some European car makers provide them on their high-end performance vehicles as OEM equipment. The shocks I chose are best suited for the H&R springs because they provide the “stock” ride feeling yet respond to every direction I want to go without hesitating or rolling.
Required Tools (when giving sizes, assume small & deep sockets, there were too many sizes to remember which was which):
10mm
12mm
14mm
17mm
19mm
Open Spanner wrenches of the same size above
½ Ratchet and wrenches
Hex Keys or Allen Wrench Set
Rubber mallet
Spring Strut Compressor (NOT Coil Spring Compressor), can be rented at AutoZone with a fully refundable deposit of $40 up return
Jacks & Jack Stands (I recommend 2-5 ton holding-weights)
TWO People, I cannot stress this enough, you DO NOT want to complete this by yourself
HIGHLY Recommended:
Impact Air Gun (Trust me, LIFE is easier with this thing, otherwise, you’ll tack on another few hours without it)
Torque Wrench (I’m anal and love to torque things to factory specs. Gives me peace of mind.)
Helms Manual
Anti-Seize Compound
Equipment:
H&R Sport Springs
Bilstein Sport Shocks (Revision: Aluminum spring seats with highly polished edges)
Time Required:
2 Hours (Some people say 6, BUT, with prior knowledge and the use of an impact gun, my friend and I did each side of the car in 0.5 hr/each and still managed to jack around by spraying each other with the air hose)
These seem like a lot of steps, 40+, but I broke it down thoroughly (it’s what I do in my job), so don’t be intimidated.
All steps are laid out using wrench and ratchets. Keep in mind you can substitute any step with tools with an available air gun, which I did.
1. Lay all your tools out
2. Remove the rear seats.
a. Pull up on the front of the rear bottom cushion, it snaps out.
b. Unbolt the middle console/armrest with the 10mm socket
c. Unbolt the back seat with a 10mm socket located directly behind the lower seatbelt bolts
d. Lift the back seat up from the bottom in the center, you should feel it snap and lift out
3. Remove the torque on the wheel lugs with a 19mm deep socket wrench
4. I recommend working one side at a time, starting with the rears, so jack up one side at a time during the installation and place jackstand where needed (this was the absolute hardest part of the whole install, my friend and I spent forever trying to find a good jackstand position and failed, so we see-sawed the car onto a jackstand, if you don’t know what I mean, then you shouldn’t try it because it’s dangerous)
5. With the wheel off the ground, remove the lugs fully and place the lugs and wheels aside
6. Remove the 2 nuts that are connected to the top-hat located in the interior of the vehicle with a 14mm shallow socket. The rear one is hard to get two, but just wiggle your ratchet in there.
7. Remove the sway bar end-link connected adjacent to the bottom of the rear shock.
8. With someone pushing down on the rotor with a foot, swing the end-link towards the rear of the car and out of the way. This allows the shock to be easily removed and installed.
9. Remove the bottom shock bolt with a 17mm socket. Use the mallet to pound it out while someone pulls up or pushes down (depends on the shock) on the hub, or if possible, just pull it out. The problem if you don’t do this is that the bolt “jams” due to the downwards pressure from the rear shocks and springs and becomes a PITA to remove it.
10. Push down hard (STAND on the hub, NOT ROTOR) while someone brings the shock assembly down (you may have to wiggle that bitch), towards the rear, then up towards the wheel well, top-hat out first. This sequence must be done because you cannot simply drop it down under the car, it won’t fit.
11. Now the assembly is out.
12. Attach the spring compressors with locks. Hand tighten.
13. If you just replacing springs, you MUST mark the vertical position of all components using chalk. This is necessary for the front and back so you can align everything correctly. It’s a PITA to remove, fix, put back, remove, adjust, put back… you get the idea.
14. With either a ratchet wrench or impact gun, compress both sides evenly until the spring “plays” inside the assembly.
15. Remove the top hat by either shooting the 14mm bolt on top with an impact gun by “stunning” it several times or place and hold a hex key/allen wrench inside of the threaded while someone uses a 14mm open spanner wrench to unbolt it.
16. Remove the top hat and remember the direction of the washer on top.
17. Remove the stock springs. Uncompress it in the reverse manner.
18. Transfer rubber sleeves from stock springs to new ones (prevents metal-on-metal noise when the car lowers)
19. Compress new springs
20. Assemble the new shock assembly with all necessary washers and dust covers.
21. Place spring onto perch.
22. Do NOT use an impact gun for this step, you’ll strip threads. With the allen wrench/hex key and 17mm open spanner wrench assemble the top hat and screw the locking nut until it is TIGHT.
23. Uncompress spring slowly and make sure it is evenly aligned with the hat and bottom perch.
24. Place and align newly assemble springs/shocks into the car.
25. Place but do not tighten the 2 top bolts, it’s just there to keep the assembly from falling when you’re placing the bottom into place.
26. Someone must lift/push the rotor and slide the bolt into the new shocks. As soon as the bolt is in, you can use a mallet. Tighten bolt to 30ft/lbs.
27. Realign and reattach end-link bolt. Tighten bolt to 30ft/lbs.
28. Tighten 2 bolts in the interior of the car holding the top hat to 37ft/lbs.
29. Replace the wheel, lower the car slowly, and tighten lug nuts to 80ft/lbs in a star-formation when the wheel is barely on the ground. Then completely lower the car.
a. If you want, before replacing the wheels, LIGHTLY (the stuff is harmless to your paint or wheels, but is pain to clean up) coat the face of the hub with anti-seize to prevent rust and future wheel removal problems. DO NOT DO NOT place anti-seize on the rotor face or stud threads!!!! Also, LIGHTLY! (pictured are the front brakes and hub)
30. Wow! Don’t stop there, you only did one side! 3 to go.
31. Repeat the other rear side. And move on to the front.
32. The fronts are easier compared to the rear because you have much more space and not all that metal is in the way!
33. Jack up the car and remove the wheels like above. Open your hood. Follow the next few steps in SEQUENCE or you will have a helluva time removing the shock.
34. Remove the 3 outer bolts on top of the top hat using a 14mm, including the 2 outer bolts holding the strut bar with a 12mm, for a TOTAL of 5.
35. Remove the bolt on top of the suspension yolk with a 17mm. It’s located at the top of the red circle, you can barely see it poking out. You may need a mallet to push it out.
36. With your friend HOLDING the shock to prevent it from falling and causing havoc, use a 17mm open spanner wrench to hold the other bolt and ratchet to do the work, unbolt the bottom bolt in the suspension yolk.
37. Now the fork should fall down. Just either push it out of the way or remove it, I chose the latter.
38. Now maneuver the front shock like the rears and remove it. You may need to hit the top with a mallet if it doesn’t just FALL out.
39. The front shocks are dis/assembled like the rears.
40. When installing the new front shocks, align the top hat through the holes at the top, screw in the 14mm and 12 mm bolts on the top just enough to hold it in place from not dropping
41. Replace the suspension fork by sliding the top over the bottom of the shock.
42. First bolt the bottom bolt, then the top bolt, then the upper bolts. You may need your friend to pull up or push down on the hub to align everything.
43. Tighten the suspension yolk bolts to 30ft/lbs.
44. Tighten the 3 14mm bolts to 37 ft/lbs and the 2 12mm strut bolts to 12 ft/lbs.
45. Finish the other side.
46. Check your work over and over. Make sure! Tight? Secure? Good to go!
47. Get an alignment after 50 miles for ~$65.
48. Smile, you just saved yourself $100-300.
BEFORE
AFTER
If you have questions, or I’m missing something, feel free to PM or email me @ mrsupermedic@hotmail.com.
Overview: A detailed step-by-step installation guide for aftermarket springs and shocks for the 3.2 CL. Should also apply to 98-02 Accord and 3.2 TL.
Personal View: Make sure you have all your tools ready and there (I provided a list, but I’m not responsible for forgetting the small, misc. items), you don’t want to find yourself stuck in the middle of a job with a tool you don’t have. Installation of this type is relatively easy, if you know what you’re doing and have a helping hand (you do not want to accomplish this task alone). If you feel uncomfortable with this, go to a mechanic and get it professionally installed.
Installed with: I chose H&R Sport Springs and Bilstein Sport Shocks for my vehicle. My reasoning? Well, to mention I have this same combo on my last few cars, it provides the best looks and performance IMHO. The springs provide the “rail car” feeling and provide an even “look” unlike others (CT, Eibach, etc.). H&R and Bilstein is known for providing the best non-adjustable shocks in the world (period), in fact, some European car makers provide them on their high-end performance vehicles as OEM equipment. The shocks I chose are best suited for the H&R springs because they provide the “stock” ride feeling yet respond to every direction I want to go without hesitating or rolling.
Required Tools (when giving sizes, assume small & deep sockets, there were too many sizes to remember which was which):
10mm
12mm
14mm
17mm
19mm
Open Spanner wrenches of the same size above
½ Ratchet and wrenches
Hex Keys or Allen Wrench Set
Rubber mallet
Spring Strut Compressor (NOT Coil Spring Compressor), can be rented at AutoZone with a fully refundable deposit of $40 up return
Jacks & Jack Stands (I recommend 2-5 ton holding-weights)
TWO People, I cannot stress this enough, you DO NOT want to complete this by yourself
HIGHLY Recommended:
Impact Air Gun (Trust me, LIFE is easier with this thing, otherwise, you’ll tack on another few hours without it)
Torque Wrench (I’m anal and love to torque things to factory specs. Gives me peace of mind.)
Helms Manual
Anti-Seize Compound
Equipment:
H&R Sport Springs
Bilstein Sport Shocks (Revision: Aluminum spring seats with highly polished edges)
Time Required:
2 Hours (Some people say 6, BUT, with prior knowledge and the use of an impact gun, my friend and I did each side of the car in 0.5 hr/each and still managed to jack around by spraying each other with the air hose)
These seem like a lot of steps, 40+, but I broke it down thoroughly (it’s what I do in my job), so don’t be intimidated.
All steps are laid out using wrench and ratchets. Keep in mind you can substitute any step with tools with an available air gun, which I did.
1. Lay all your tools out
2. Remove the rear seats.
a. Pull up on the front of the rear bottom cushion, it snaps out.
b. Unbolt the middle console/armrest with the 10mm socket
c. Unbolt the back seat with a 10mm socket located directly behind the lower seatbelt bolts
d. Lift the back seat up from the bottom in the center, you should feel it snap and lift out
3. Remove the torque on the wheel lugs with a 19mm deep socket wrench
4. I recommend working one side at a time, starting with the rears, so jack up one side at a time during the installation and place jackstand where needed (this was the absolute hardest part of the whole install, my friend and I spent forever trying to find a good jackstand position and failed, so we see-sawed the car onto a jackstand, if you don’t know what I mean, then you shouldn’t try it because it’s dangerous)
5. With the wheel off the ground, remove the lugs fully and place the lugs and wheels aside
6. Remove the 2 nuts that are connected to the top-hat located in the interior of the vehicle with a 14mm shallow socket. The rear one is hard to get two, but just wiggle your ratchet in there.
7. Remove the sway bar end-link connected adjacent to the bottom of the rear shock.
8. With someone pushing down on the rotor with a foot, swing the end-link towards the rear of the car and out of the way. This allows the shock to be easily removed and installed.
9. Remove the bottom shock bolt with a 17mm socket. Use the mallet to pound it out while someone pulls up or pushes down (depends on the shock) on the hub, or if possible, just pull it out. The problem if you don’t do this is that the bolt “jams” due to the downwards pressure from the rear shocks and springs and becomes a PITA to remove it.
10. Push down hard (STAND on the hub, NOT ROTOR) while someone brings the shock assembly down (you may have to wiggle that bitch), towards the rear, then up towards the wheel well, top-hat out first. This sequence must be done because you cannot simply drop it down under the car, it won’t fit.
11. Now the assembly is out.
12. Attach the spring compressors with locks. Hand tighten.
13. If you just replacing springs, you MUST mark the vertical position of all components using chalk. This is necessary for the front and back so you can align everything correctly. It’s a PITA to remove, fix, put back, remove, adjust, put back… you get the idea.
14. With either a ratchet wrench or impact gun, compress both sides evenly until the spring “plays” inside the assembly.
15. Remove the top hat by either shooting the 14mm bolt on top with an impact gun by “stunning” it several times or place and hold a hex key/allen wrench inside of the threaded while someone uses a 14mm open spanner wrench to unbolt it.
16. Remove the top hat and remember the direction of the washer on top.
17. Remove the stock springs. Uncompress it in the reverse manner.
18. Transfer rubber sleeves from stock springs to new ones (prevents metal-on-metal noise when the car lowers)
19. Compress new springs
20. Assemble the new shock assembly with all necessary washers and dust covers.
21. Place spring onto perch.
22. Do NOT use an impact gun for this step, you’ll strip threads. With the allen wrench/hex key and 17mm open spanner wrench assemble the top hat and screw the locking nut until it is TIGHT.
23. Uncompress spring slowly and make sure it is evenly aligned with the hat and bottom perch.
24. Place and align newly assemble springs/shocks into the car.
25. Place but do not tighten the 2 top bolts, it’s just there to keep the assembly from falling when you’re placing the bottom into place.
26. Someone must lift/push the rotor and slide the bolt into the new shocks. As soon as the bolt is in, you can use a mallet. Tighten bolt to 30ft/lbs.
27. Realign and reattach end-link bolt. Tighten bolt to 30ft/lbs.
28. Tighten 2 bolts in the interior of the car holding the top hat to 37ft/lbs.
29. Replace the wheel, lower the car slowly, and tighten lug nuts to 80ft/lbs in a star-formation when the wheel is barely on the ground. Then completely lower the car.
a. If you want, before replacing the wheels, LIGHTLY (the stuff is harmless to your paint or wheels, but is pain to clean up) coat the face of the hub with anti-seize to prevent rust and future wheel removal problems. DO NOT DO NOT place anti-seize on the rotor face or stud threads!!!! Also, LIGHTLY! (pictured are the front brakes and hub)
30. Wow! Don’t stop there, you only did one side! 3 to go.
31. Repeat the other rear side. And move on to the front.
32. The fronts are easier compared to the rear because you have much more space and not all that metal is in the way!
33. Jack up the car and remove the wheels like above. Open your hood. Follow the next few steps in SEQUENCE or you will have a helluva time removing the shock.
34. Remove the 3 outer bolts on top of the top hat using a 14mm, including the 2 outer bolts holding the strut bar with a 12mm, for a TOTAL of 5.
35. Remove the bolt on top of the suspension yolk with a 17mm. It’s located at the top of the red circle, you can barely see it poking out. You may need a mallet to push it out.
36. With your friend HOLDING the shock to prevent it from falling and causing havoc, use a 17mm open spanner wrench to hold the other bolt and ratchet to do the work, unbolt the bottom bolt in the suspension yolk.
37. Now the fork should fall down. Just either push it out of the way or remove it, I chose the latter.
38. Now maneuver the front shock like the rears and remove it. You may need to hit the top with a mallet if it doesn’t just FALL out.
39. The front shocks are dis/assembled like the rears.
40. When installing the new front shocks, align the top hat through the holes at the top, screw in the 14mm and 12 mm bolts on the top just enough to hold it in place from not dropping
41. Replace the suspension fork by sliding the top over the bottom of the shock.
42. First bolt the bottom bolt, then the top bolt, then the upper bolts. You may need your friend to pull up or push down on the hub to align everything.
43. Tighten the suspension yolk bolts to 30ft/lbs.
44. Tighten the 3 14mm bolts to 37 ft/lbs and the 2 12mm strut bolts to 12 ft/lbs.
45. Finish the other side.
46. Check your work over and over. Make sure! Tight? Secure? Good to go!
47. Get an alignment after 50 miles for ~$65.
48. Smile, you just saved yourself $100-300.
BEFORE
AFTER
If you have questions, or I’m missing something, feel free to PM or email me @ mrsupermedic@hotmail.com.
04-06-2004, 06:29 PM
#2
Got a Job!
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1st off......AWESOME tutorial and AWESOME job...I must say 
2nd...How much did it run you for the H&R sports and the Bilsteins? Is a camber kit needed?
3rdly...how much would you charge to do this if I came down to you? Im up in the SFV (San Fernando Valley). Let me know
2nd...How much did it run you for the H&R sports and the Bilsteins? Is a camber kit needed?
3rdly...how much would you charge to do this if I came down to you? Im up in the SFV (San Fernando Valley). Let me know
04-06-2004, 06:37 PM
#3
Adventurist.
Thread Starter
Thanks.
H&R Sports were $150, Bilstein was $419 off ebay. Camber is car specific, not suspension specific, although it is a given with some (Tein, Race springs, etc.). My car needed no camber kit, I'm only off by hundredths of a degree.
PM me and we can talk about price and installation. It's all dependent around school and work. But my friend and I are willing to do any suspension install for a fee.
H&R Sports were $150, Bilstein was $419 off ebay. Camber is car specific, not suspension specific, although it is a given with some (Tein, Race springs, etc.). My car needed no camber kit, I'm only off by hundredths of a degree.
PM me and we can talk about price and installation. It's all dependent around school and work. But my friend and I are willing to do any suspension install for a fee.
04-06-2004, 06:41 PM
#5
Adventurist.
Thread Starter
I do believe I am the first with Bilstein shocks on the forums. The Bilsteins are great, they are firm but feel stock, seriously. They are also very responsive and suit well with the springs. I'll try to do a full review in a few weeks. If anyone wants to hitch a ride to feel it, you'll be welcome.
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04-06-2004, 07:59 PM
#8
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excellent job mang, this should answer a whole of request. just one addition, you don't need to compress the rear springs, the spring will come out and go in without the need of compressing the spring.
04-07-2004, 04:45 PM
#10
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Re: DIY: Springs & Shocks (Mods Can Archive if needed)
Originally posted by NiteQwill
13. If you just replacing springs, you MUST mark the vertical position of all components using chalk. This is necessary for the front and back so you can align everything correctly. It’s a PITA to remove, fix, put back, remove, adjust, put back… you get the idea.
13. If you just replacing springs, you MUST mark the vertical position of all components using chalk. This is necessary for the front and back so you can align everything correctly. It’s a PITA to remove, fix, put back, remove, adjust, put back… you get the idea.
04-07-2004, 04:47 PM
#11
Senior Moderator
nice work.
bilstein
bilstein
04-07-2004, 04:54 PM
#12
Where is my super sauce?
Great write up.
I thought that there was no Bilstein fitment for our car. I couldn't read in the picture -- what is the part number and what car is it designed to fit?
I thought that there was no Bilstein fitment for our car. I couldn't read in the picture -- what is the part number and what car is it designed to fit?
04-07-2004, 06:11 PM
#13
Adventurist.
Thread Starter
Re: Re: DIY: Springs & Shocks (Mods Can Archive if needed)
Originally posted by simean
ok guys...i have no idea what this means...maybe u can clear this up for me. how do i do this?
ok guys...i have no idea what this means...maybe u can clear this up for me. how do i do this?
Example (don't snicker
): BOLT [==> O=====]= TOP HAT (8) Holes in car They must all align to fit the bolt at the bottom assembly and top hat into the frame of the car.When replacing both shocks and springs, this is not necessary because aftermarket shocks can turn... So you can turn the assembly and hat until it fits.
Honestly, you'll see what I'm talking about when you take it out.
Slimey: The Bilstein Sports are made to fit the 98-02 Accord V6. Don't get the 4cyl version (I believe there is a check digit added to the end of the part number) as they may blow due to different specs for gas compression and rebound.
Here are the Part Numbers:
Front: BE5-6580-H0
Back: BE5-6581-H0
04-07-2004, 10:13 PM
#14
Where is my super sauce?
Thanks.
I thought that 98-02 suspension parts physically fit our car, but are not a proper substitute because of weight differences between our car and the Accord.
I know that others (I think EricL had a nice write up a year or two ago) looked into Bilstein struts, but could not find a properly spec'ed model for our car.
I think you're the first person to install them in the CL-S. Let us know how they work out - I'm looking to upgrade my struts in the next year or two and if my decision tree adds in Bilstein, then I got some more thinking to do.
I thought that 98-02 suspension parts physically fit our car, but are not a proper substitute because of weight differences between our car and the Accord.
I know that others (I think EricL had a nice write up a year or two ago) looked into Bilstein struts, but could not find a properly spec'ed model for our car.
I think you're the first person to install them in the CL-S. Let us know how they work out - I'm looking to upgrade my struts in the next year or two and if my decision tree adds in Bilstein, then I got some more thinking to do.
04-11-2004, 12:23 AM
#15
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Nice post man. I followed this last night and got my H&R OE's on. It took me about 8 hours because I didn't have an air gun. Compressing the springs is a biatch by hand. I didn't get done until 5 a.m.......drove around about 20 miles and went and got an alignment later.
Also, I didn't realize what you meant on #13.......I found out very quickly about 3 hours in to the first spring and the 3rd time off.
All in all...priceless post. You may want to add that you need a hex key to get the rear sway bar off. I was turning and turning for 15 minutes before I realized the whole bolt was moving.
. Also, it would be cool if it was printable....as it doesn't format well on a printer.....but no biggie.
Thank you for taking time to do this.
Also, I didn't realize what you meant on #13.......I found out very quickly about 3 hours in to the first spring and the 3rd time off.
All in all...priceless post. You may want to add that you need a hex key to get the rear sway bar off. I was turning and turning for 15 minutes before I realized the whole bolt was moving.
. Also, it would be cool if it was printable....as it doesn't format well on a printer.....but no biggie.Thank you for taking time to do this.
04-12-2004, 02:31 PM
#16
Adventurist.
Thread Starter
Thanx for the comment! Glad to see everything worked out and this post helped you.
Sorry, yes, I should add that a hex key is required for the end-links. I used an airgun (no key needed), so I forgot that I needed it.
Sorry, yes, I should add that a hex key is required for the end-links. I used an airgun (no key needed), so I forgot that I needed it.
04-12-2004, 02:36 PM
#17
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Excellent write up!! For those without air tools I'd skip removing the end links. I didn't take mine off when I did my comptech/konis and it wasn't a problem.
Server is down sometimes.
10-20-2005, 02:16 AM
#24
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i found it a lot easier to first spray some liquid wrench on the entire long bolt. The long bolt went really smooth in once the position is aligned correctly. Get liquid wrench, it's going to help a lot. Get the green one for this, and yellow one for rusted bolts.
10-20-2005, 04:01 AM
#25
i got the bolt out, but i can't get the yolk onto the arm and shock. according to the directions, i should feed the strut into the tower, bolt it down slightly, and slip the yolk onto the bottom of the strut. i can't do that. no matter how hard i push down on the rotor, it doesn't go down far enough for me to slip the strut onto the yolk. please help me or i'm going to have to blow away $125 for install.
10-30-2005, 11:31 AM
#28
Adventurist.
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by OneFlyCL
Hey Did you need a camber KIT?
Although, camber kits are usually mandatory on coilover installations.
03-15-2011, 08:29 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
WELL, I baught H&R race springs and sen-sei struts and thought that i could get this done within 4 hours. Not so much, it took me 4 hours just to do the front!!!
None of the stuff worked out on my end at all. I followed this, and it is exactly what you need to do, but i didnt get the same outcome. everything was extremely difficult to remove and manuver and loosen up with air tools.
I guess with 130k miles, things are a little more Stuck together and old. Plus, the groove on the new struts need to go through the groove on the fork and the springs need to be aligned on the top hat properly and exactly like it was on there with the stock struts and springs with the end of the spring facing the back..
Anyways, good luck to those without a lift and with as many miles on stock parts....
None of the stuff worked out on my end at all. I followed this, and it is exactly what you need to do, but i didnt get the same outcome. everything was extremely difficult to remove and manuver and loosen up with air tools.
I guess with 130k miles, things are a little more Stuck together and old. Plus, the groove on the new struts need to go through the groove on the fork and the springs need to be aligned on the top hat properly and exactly like it was on there with the stock struts and springs with the end of the spring facing the back..
Anyways, good luck to those without a lift and with as many miles on stock parts....
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