hotclick56

My fellow Acurazine members, I wanted to share with you my real experience so that you won't have to go thru the hassles and aggravations I've gone thru.

I replaced my front rotor & pads this March due to vibrations when stopping. Rotors were Stop Tech & pads were Akebonos. Around May, I still have a bit of a vibration, so, I decided to replace the rear rotors & pads. Both rear rotors & brakes were Stop Tech brand. After this was done, the CL ran perfect without any vibrations when stopping (but not for long).

After 6 weeks of use, I noticed there was this shuddering vibration when I applied the brakes. I took it to my mechanic & had the rear brakes & rotors inspected.

What caused the shuddering vibration was the brake material had melted and seared right on the braking surface of the rotors.



I called Tirerack to resolve this issue & they were gracious enough to send me a new set of replacement rotors. Plus, the customer service manager was kind enough to reimburse me half the cost of labor to replace the 2nd set of rotors. There were lots of follow ups plus email correspondences back & forth but finally the manager stepped in and resolve the issue once and for all. I couldn't say the same for the customer rep who initially handled this issue.

Now on to the 2nd phase of chasing down the source of the problem and to resolve the issue completely. I contacted Stop Tech in Compton, CA and presented my case with all the facts and data. After 2 short & quick emails, SLAM, end of discussion. NO WARRANTY OFFERED or ANY CLAIMS ENTERTAINED. Hey, STOP TECH, you think you are the only game in town that makes brake pads and rotors?? Think again!! The customer rep said that the pad's impression on the rotors was because I held the brakes when the rotors were hot. WTF! You mean to say when I come to a stop light, I cannot hold my brakes & have to keep on going?? Then, what good are your brake pads?? What an idiot

STOP TECH is forever black listed in my book.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Interesting. What pads were they? Maybe you got a bad caliper? May need a rebuild.
Did you properly bed in the brakes?
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Note step 2...

hotclick56

They were Stop Tech Street Performance Pads. My mechanic inspected everything and he said the rest are fine. After installation, he took it for a road test for 2 hours. I presumed he did it in the 2 hours he was on the road. The item both Tirerack and Stop Tech cannot explain is why didn’t the Akebono front pads have the same trouble as the rear ones? And the front ones take a lot of abuse and beating than the rear ones.

eneffex

from the picture, looks like it was improperly bedded in, when the pad is fresh, you shouldn't stop completely and hold it, thats what causes the burn in. but who knows =)

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

I have the same pad imprint on my rear rotors. I'm running my original rear rotors and pads. I think it showed up after I wash the car.
Did you try bedding in the pads again?

hotclick56

Nope. I don't trust Stop Tech pads anymore. Will be yanking them out once the Akebonos arrive.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I agree with the others, it seems as though the pads were not bedded in properly.

If they got hot enough to "melt" (which I find hard to believe BTW), that would only be the product of friction. Seized calipers, sticky sliders, incorrectly installed pads could all cause this.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

what the hell did the mechanic do for TWO HOURS!?
it takes 10-15 mins to bed in the rotors.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Might explain the melted pads

hotclick56

I can only presume that my mechanic did exactly the same thing to the rear rotors as what he did to the front ones as I was not present that day. My most troubling question is how come the front ones ran without any problem? (also installed by the same mechanic)

But, I can assure you 100% that it wasn't the seized calipers because that day I was standing behind him watching his every move when he spun the tires and it rotated freely except when the seared spot passed under the brake pads (this is when I heard the dragging sound).

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Civic, can you re-bed the rotors to wipe away the deposits!?

or you can cut/turn them.

its foolish to say that stoptech is a poor company, when it was a car malfunction or user error.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea, you can rebed them. It may take a few more hard stops then usual to get those deposits off. Spraying the rotors with brake parts cleaner and wiping them down may help as well.

Having the rotors cut would definitely get rid of the deposits, but on drilled rotors, good luck finding a shop that will touch them. Most dont because its hard on their tooling.

And I agree, Stop Tech = Power Slot = Centric and I've had nothing but good luck with them.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Are the deposits on both side of the rotor? And are the slide pins on the calipers moving freely?

hotclick56

Deposits were on both sides of the rotors. Pins moved freely.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Im willing to bet that if the mechanic bed the pads, he either came to a complete stop on one of the panic stops or shortly there after. Thats the only way to have that pad pattern on the rotor surface. They specifically say not to come to a complete stop, but slow down quickly then continue driving to allow the brakes to cool. If the pads were defective and truly leaving deposits on the rotor, there would be a large amount of pad build up around the entire rotor face, not one localized area.

hotclick56

I cannot say what my mechanic did or didn’t do. But one thing is for sure, after he replaced the pads and rear rotors, the vehicle ran smoothly without any vibrations until 6 weeks afterwards. I keep a meticulous log of what service is done and based on my calculations, I estimated the shuddering vibrations began after about 3500 miles of use. I would think that his complete panic stop after the installation would be highly unlikely.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

No one else had complained about these pads before. You need to eliminate as many factors as you can before you start pointing your finger at one item.

hotclick56

As far as I can see, all factors and conditions were the same, except where noted.
· If the temperature that days was 95 degrees, then it was 95 degrees for both the front and rear pads.
· If the humidity that day was 70%, then it was 70% for both the front and rear pads.
· Both rotors were of the Stop Tech brand.
· Both pads were working well as it has been very humid this summer here in the NE and I noticed there was a very light coating of rust on the braking surfaces on both the front and rear rotors after a heavy downpour. But when I got home, the light coatings of rust were gone.
· Weight distribution is probably 60% to 40% since this is a FWD car – which equates that the front pads took more of a beating and abuse (since my trunk is usually empty).
· If I jammed the brakes and held it for 3 minutes, then the 3 minutes were applied to both front and rear brake pads at the same time.
· Both front and rear brake jobs were installed by the same mechanic in the same garage.
· And as I explained to Civicdr before, the rear calipers were not seized because I was standing behind the mechanic watching him rotate the wheel freely except for the seared spot.
· The only difference = the front pads are Akebonos and the rear pads are Stop Tech.
So, Mr. Professor, what else can you bring to this site to enlighten everyone regarding this melting and searing of the rear pads?

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

The rotors look glazed to me. Makes me think they were over-heated I am having a hard time thinking of how that could happen.

I can say that if this is a pad issue it is an isolated incident. I personally cannot see how it would be though.

hotclick56

The only thing that can bring the rotors to overheat are the pads (friction from stopping). Agree? Then, I tend to think the pad material is in question.

Anyway...I am having a set of Akebono's pads put in today and will keep this site posted as to its outcome.

I lost a few dollars on the Stop Tech pads but they lost a customer forever.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

What forces the pads to clamp together?
the calipers.

Like previously stated by everyone here; your calipers might be sticking.

hotclick56

There is no way I can prove if my calipers were sticking or not. I would welcome anyone who can give me a suggestion on how to test them. My wheels were spinning freely when rotated except for the seared spot, as I've said many times already.

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

I wouldn't compare the front and rear rotors/pads. The rear rotors aren't even ventilated.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

My only suggestion would be to learn how to do this yourself. Cause it's really easy. If you had you would had known the proper procedure to bed in the brakes & not "trusted" a shop to do it. Because no matter what you say or feel that symptom is lined out clearly as being a bad bed in procedure.

The fact is stop tech pads are used in much higher end braking apps then the CL & are highly regarded.

eneffex

agreed, I wouldn't trust someone else to do that. I properly bedded in my Hawks HPS with my EBC 3GD rotors and they work great. Just follow manufacturers directions =P

from TR:

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:
AKEBONO
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
ATE
400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.
BREMBO Gran Turismo
In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.
HAWK
After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.
NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.
POWER SLOT
Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

hotclick56

It's been almost a year since I replaced the Stop Tech pads w/ Akebono pads. After 17,700 miles with the Akebonos pads, they are still holding up strong.

Left Rear rotor


Right Rear rotor

danilka

I want enhanced brakes and brake discs. What then install?

03 tls nc

iTrader: (6)

Glad to hear you brakes are working good for you. I have been running the StopTechs for about 7K now with no issues.

hotclick56

If your wheel's inside clearance will allow, it seemed like RB's BBK from HeelToe may work. This system is the smallest one I've seen compared to Rotora or Wilwood's. My preference would be to stay with the 300mm discs but get the drilled ones. Inside clearance will be the biggest issue.

Igepal

Interesting problem. I have been doing brakes without issue for >35 years with no issue. Recently had vibrations with my wife's heavy cls and my lightweight miata. Both were fine after replacing pads & rotors but vibrations started within 10k. A friend of mine has had the same experience. I used napa parts. Next time I will try another brand even though others give positive reviews. Maybe just bad luck.