Is there a way to differentiate between noisy valves and noisy injectors? My car has ~135,000km (84,000miles). The noise is quite audible when driving at lower speeds with windows down. I made sure it's not the purge solenoid.

Would an automotive stethoscope work? I'm going to get some fuel injector cleaner and see if that helps.

 

i would love to know about this as well because mine is very noisy too and it really concerns me.
the purge solenoid on mine seems to be fine too....

 

no answers on this?

 

i might just have my valves adjusted anyways, and i thought while i'm there to upgrade my injectors. I probably won't do that until right before the car hibernates for next winter.

 

well, i would say the same, but the honda dealer wants $650 to adjust my valves, but they didnt think it needed it yet.
How the hell do i know if it needs it?

 

if there is significant ticking i would have it done. I would shop around as the dealer will likely be on the high end. You'll probably see better 1/4 mile times too since your motor will be running better.

 

nuts, don't you have a comptech strut brace too? if so i know my engine mount solenoid, made a hell of a noise, when it was rubbing ever so slightly (also make sure none of the lines for the purge solenoid are pushing it akwardly making it hit the chassis or something)


and yes a stethoscope would help you locate the noise to an area/injector, but good luck trying to get to the injectors to listen to them


but the next best thing is can you get the noise to duplicate when you are at an idle/revved some even with the hood open, so you try and locate the area it is kinda coming from

 

ya i'll have another look at it and i'll check around my strut bar, thanks! I might just upgrade injectors anyways and have the valves done then.

 

also as far as adjusting those valves, there can be a real difference in how they get adjusted, and the amount of time it takes to adjust them (do you want precisely adjusted, or just kinda in the ball park?)

and the actual part of adjusting is not too bad/hard, but it does take time to do precisely though, so expect to pay at least a couple of hours worth of labor (btw make sure to get all new valve cover seals, spark plug tube seals, and the valve cover bolts seals too, if you go in, might as well do it once, and be done with it till the next valve adjust; ie: leaking at a later date)
btw try to only get OEM seals, i had an aftermarket one dry/harden up on me in like 20k, so i had to put new seals in again

 

good info.
as far as mine, it seems to get louder as i rev the engine and its right around the top of the motor, so i have no idea....

maybe just me being paronoid, but maybe not

 

It's injectors. They are noisy on this car. I know I had 3.

 

this is my second, and the other one wasn't noisy like this at all.

 

My friend is mechanic at Acura dealer and he printed out for me whole proccess from a to z how to do it. I also have helms manual so anyone interested let me know. I will do timing belt and valves adjustment as soon as i get this damn xlr8 side mount.

 

Sounds good to me.
I will give it a try

 

My dad works for Honda/Acura (Technician) And I asked him the same ?s because I to was paranoid of my valves tapping. He told me I was just being that (paranoid) and that most of the higher mileage Hondas, the injectors click real loud. I was getting worried because when I would pull next to something where sound would bounce, I could hear them. Of course my Accord did the same thing (although that had a Bisimoto Level 2 Camshaft regrin, but the valves were adjusted when that went in) So I am inclined to believe that it is just Injector noise

 

It's the vavles they are surpose tobe adjusted every 100k it's in your manual and since we run our cars it will be better for performance

 

I spent two and a half hours adjusting my valves today and still have that ticking noise. I took my time and got all of the valves just above the low end of tolerance scale too... .008 and .011. Car does run much better now except for that CEL that came on. Go figure.

Just trying to get some posts here so I can be an "official" member.

 

Mine is quite like never before... how did you do it ? what tool and how strong did u tight screws ?

 

Once I got to the valves I Used a angled feeler guage from PB with a short slotted screwdriver and a 10mm box wrench. Loosen lock nut, Set your feeler guage in the gap and then tighten down with slotted driver to were the feeler will just slide out. Leave feeler in there and then torque the lock nut(10mm socket) down to 14ft lbs. Hopefully it wont tighten down on the feeler. If it does then you get to do that one all over again until you get it within the tolerance limit. The first couple were tedious but then you get to a point that it's pretty easy. I had one i did 4 times before i felt right about it. I checked and rechecked my work to be as safe as possible. Intake was .008-.009 and Exhaust was 0.011-.013. I kept it tight since it will do nothing but loosen and wear for the next 100k. Took me about 7-8 hours but I did alot of TB IM EGR port cleaning as well.

And I did check the tolerance before I started on each valve and all were loose... I stopped doing that after the first 10 or 11 valves.

This was my first time and I was apprehensive but it was a great way to save about 700 bucks and learn more about my motor.

 

when i was doing my timing belt it actually took me 2 days but i was taking easy on this one... valves adjustment it self took me like an hour

 

this makes me want to try it myself...too bad there's a charger in the way.

 

Daym hour? Two and half hours? to adjust valves? I asked a tech and he was like atleast 5 hours. Honda wanted 540+

But bottom line if the injectors are loud just switch them? Can't do anything else? It's anyoing where ever I pull up. Any suggestions?

 

I just did my own valves and it was easier then I thought.

Are you sure it's not your purge solenoid ticking?

 

Also, 5 hours is what Honda's books say and that's what they'll Bill you. Probably takes them 2-3hrs

 

i work as a service adviser thats what they tell you to do. ill check out the purge solenoid, but my car is at about 190 k. so when i had a tech look at it thats what he said.

 

The purge solenoid also ticks loudly. On the CL is on the drivers side against the firewall. You can put your finger on it and feel the tick. But with that mileage you might just need a valve adjustment.

 

based upon their experience with all the other J series motors?

I believe they are due at 120K according to my dealer for my 02 CLS. I am at 110K and my engine sounds exactly the same as it did when I first bought the car when it was 3 years old. purrrs like a kitten and no loud ticking noises.