Hello.

My CL is 129k on it, so I am considering the valve adjustment. (The timing belt was done a years ago.) I've read a couple aricles about the job but I still am not sure whether the job is necessary or not.

Thanks.

 

Hows your gas mileage? Do you have alot of valve noise?

 

I think 20~21 mpg for city and 28 mpg for highway. I am not sure what the valve noise is but the engine doesn't make any strange noise.

 

Valve noise would sound like lose change hitting the valve covers.

28hwy sounds about right.

Tight valves are worse then loose valves, but Im not sure how you can tell if the valves are tight without taking the car apart.

 

I don't think there is that kinds of noise.

 

I bet your valves are off. Mine were at my 105k.

 

What was the symptom when the valve was off?

 

ticking valves but thats only when they are loose. theres no noise difference when they are tight and tight valves are worse then loose valves.

 

So, it the adjustment unnecessary?

 

depends how much money you want to spend on your car and how much you love it lol

 

I love my car. If I do the job, it will the second biggest job I've done to the car after the timing belt by myself. I am happy to take care of my car but don't want to waste money.

 

its not a waste of money.

 

I am gonna order some gaskets and gauge for the job.

Thanks man.

 

If you do it yourself it'll be worth it. Just pay very close attention to the DIY.

 

I already print out all the DIYs from here and found a couple of online manuals either. I should go through them before dig in.

I will take pictures as many as I can while doing the DIY .\

Thanks guys.

 

I'm going to be doing my front and rear mounts, timing belt, and valve adjustment as soon as I get all of the parts. I have to pull the blower to get at the front mount, so while thats off, the valves will be checked and the TB and related components will be replaced. Getting that dam crank bolt off though is my only concern.

If you have done the timing belt by yourself, the valve adjustment procedure will be a piece of cake. I did my first valve adjustment at 60K; however, I had to pull the blower, so that added a few more steps. I pulled my plugs before the valve job to check their condition and found that this made rotating the crankshaft easier as I cycled through each valves TDC and their adjustment. Removing the plugs, however, is not necessary.

Good luck!

 

Thanks for the tip.
What do you mean the blower? You say a turbo?

 

Supercharger. The output shaft runs along the front of the motor and is in the way of the front valve cover. The SC unit itself sits over the right side, where the stock battery position used to be, and is in the way of access to the front motor mount, so it has to be removed to get at that

 

zeta has a supercharger. probably not relevant to you lol

 

OK. I don't have the SC.
By the way this is the out of topic but I would like to clean (detailing) the engine bay after the valve job is done. Which parts should I cover to prevent water?

Thanks.

 

i've always been worried about powerwashing the engine bay. although sodaluvr does it to his saturn with no problem. I just wipe mine down with a damp cloth.

if you do plan to powerwash, you should probably try to cover the dipsticks, coolant, power steering and brake fluid containers. and relay/fuse boxes.

 

got mine done and it was 100% worth it.

 

Valve job or engine detailing?

 

valve job

 

I've done the valve job today. It tooks me 8 hours. That wasn't difficult as much as timing belt but the rear valves were pain in the axx.

Thanks guys.

 

Have you got any of the pics yet.

 

So, what approach did you employ in finding TDC?

Based on your other thread:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/tdc-alignment-776211/
where the TB covers used on the car to find TDC?

Or did you have the TB covers off of the car and use the marks on the case and camshaft pulleys to find TDC? If so, which marks did you use with the TB covers off of the car?

 

I followed the manual because the T-belt cover had to be off. By the way I noticed some knocking noise between 5~6000 rpm even though I am not sure the noise was there or not before the valve job. When the engine runs over 5000 rpm, it swayed one time. After that runs normally. I am guessing the Vtec makes the move.