efffin crap! cars wouldn't start on a hot day even after it was sitting for 3 hours I think it was to hot inside the cabin. So I found the relay unbolted the bracket took it out, couldn't get it out of the stupid casing around it, so it just popped it back in...what do you know it started right up! but I couldn't get it re mounted so I zip tired it! now the other day when im driving it just suddenly dies on me waited about 5 mins then it started right up again...does this still have to do with the fuel pump relay?

 

When the Main Relay goes bad

Are any of your symptoms the same as described in the link above?

 

I have a unique situation where my 2003 cls 6 speed mt (117,000 miles) will not start after filling up with gasoline. After, pushing it starts right up. This has happened 3 times I have filled up. It has started perfectly fine the rest of the time. It has been hot lately so this is common problem. My battery was just replaced, spark plugs, cleaned egr ports. I have ordered a new main relay. What do you guys think?

 

if you have a new (fuel) relay on order the diagnosis for the bad relay is very simple. unmount the fuel pump relay from it's bracket. When the car exhibits the behavior, turn the ignition to off. Pop the cover off the relay (leaving it plugged in) and turn the ignition to the on position. Observe the two coils as you turn the key. Both coils should energize, so you should see them both click over, and you should hear the whine of the fuel pump. If only one coil energizes (clicks over) then you should resolder all the joints or replace the relay.

Filling up the fuel tank shouldn't really affect any of the starting circuitry. Push starting the car also probably wouldn't work if your fuel pump relay was bad, since the ignition has to be in the on or run position before you try push starting. No amount of pushing in gear will help start the car if the fuel pump relay never energizes the fuel pump so that it can deliver fuel.

When you say "car does not start" does that mean : your starter won't engage (does the engine turn over)?

Your problem might be elsewhere from what you've described above.

 

i filled up this weekend and temperatures were in the high 70s. The car started up fine no problems.

The engine turns over when it was not starting.

 

i would like to thank contributors of this thread, post 45 and 48
for such a useful solution.
(i feel for all those who spent money at mechanics,
for crank positions sensors, and fuel pumps, etc.)

re-soldering the fuel pump relay worked for me.
but i gotta tell ya, even with a high powered magnifying glass,
i was barely able to distinguish the compromised joints on the board.
and it wasn't on the bigger points, it was 2 smaller ones, that i think actually power the electromagnet, for the relay.

i waited a few month before posting, to be confident of the fix.

 

Don't worry about HOW it looks! Just reflow ALL of them.

 

Hey guys i have what i might think is a major problem. I put in new main relay thinking that will solve evrything turns out it did not. Its not the relay but the harness for the relay will not keep a connection and the car keep dying not sure how to fix that ease help

 

when I hold the relay in a certain position it will stay on but the moment I let go everything shuts off...could the prongs in the harness be dirty? or is it a short?

 

My '02 CL after 149K miles finally needed the relay replaced. Symptoms were it was taking a couple of cranks to start, sometimes the car would start then die, start and run like crap for a minute (similar to when one ignition coil went out), and then would crank but not start. The dealer replaced the relay but did a full diagnosis checking fuel pump, fuel pressure, valve timing, crank sensors, etc. my car stars and interestingly runs much stronger than it has been lately.

 

well i researched my two acuras before i bought them. I have a 2001c.l type s and a t.l. type s.knowing the tranny issues and relay issues i still bought them because i like the cars. Short story. Had issues starting car and read the many post here. I would like to thank all the people who post here because it saves so much money and shows me that the dealership is in my opinion. ..frauds. how could they not know the problems but the average joes and joettes help each other figure things out.

 

As much as we hate dealers, don't totally give up on them. They've seen more Acura problems than anyone else so they often can correctly diagnose. When my Main Rely was giving problems, it didn't send any Check Engine codes and my local mechanic could not determine why my CL-S was having starting issues. Dealer did same diagnosis and determined it was Relay, and now the car works again. One pointer from dealer: Before turning key all the way to crank car, turn key to start position and let all the relay noises finish, then crank.

 

Thanks to all those that posted pics and the video on here in regards to the relay. The scenario : Oregon went from beautiful 60 to 70 degree weather up into the 90's in one day. I hate to admit it but I have the Cl outside instead of under the cooler carport for a couple days while I am working on a project. Additionally had not driven the car since the dramatic weather change. I went to start her up this afternoon, it was 90 in the shade. First clue , the fuel pump didn't make it's engaging whirly sound. Second, the car started for an instant and then died right away. After that nothing, waited and hour still nothing but used the hour to look on here...
and from what everyone posted, plus my symptoms and scenario I figured that it was probably the relay. I was able to get the nut that holds bracket off with the 10 mil. open end wrench. Once I loosened it, I was able to spin it out with one finger. See post 59 I don't know how he got that socket up there but his suggestion on the wrench worked great. Good pics of relay on post 45, also video post 48. I would add that the wiring harness would be hard to take off first until the bracket is out. The key is getting the nut undone so that you can pull the bracket down and take off the harness. I don't have a sodering iron anymore and would rather have a new part so went to autozone and got Part Number: 20113 for 47 bucks. there are some on ebay cheaper but it's Sunday and I wanted it done. Fired up right away with new relay. I may attempt to put the bracket back in but most likely will just zip tie as others have suggested. Anyway just wanted to post the success story and if it wasn't for what others have posted I would of not been able to resolve this myself. Thanks again for the posts, pics and video!

 

Humberwho, save the old relay, and I'll reflow the solder on it one day so you'll have a spare. No charge.

 

Super cool of you to offer Tosh, I think I have a local source on it, but may be back to you. Thanks!

 

Hey everyone, I have '03 CL, 276,000 miles on it. The relay started to give me trouble last summer, but once the weather got cooler, I had no problem with it... till a week ago. I had been through this with my '89 CRX, so I knew exactly what the issue was. In the Honda's, the relay is not very easy to get to, so I was putting off looking at my CL. I wasn't looking forward to the same fight. Fortunately, the CL has a very accessible relay. Even though it is in a small space, it is much easier than a Honda. I haven't taken the relay out yet, but I did just pull the fuse to check it. It wasn't blown, but I did wipe the ends off, put it back in and my car started right up. No hesitation or excessive cranking. It's running smooth. I've restarted 6 times and every time it starts right up. So...is my relay really bad or does my fuse just need to be replaced with a new on? They are the original fuses. Thanks everyone for sharing and advising on this forum.

 

No start once in a blue moon during warmer temperatures.

almost one year later, my cls would not start today at all. I had purchased a main relay and installed...cranks right up. thanks for everyone posts.

 

Have to say after suffering multiple times after letting our 2001 CL S type sit for days, it would not start.

I used to use starting fluid to prime it and that seems to work, but this last time no go.

Found this thread, took the relay out (PITA) and replaced it with a $47 Autozone one with lifetime warranty, started right up!

It looked okay but I wasn't going to solder all the nodes to try that.

 

Send me all your relays, and I'll reflow them for no charge.

 

[QUOTE=fuzzy02CLS;7458024]I think your just mad. There have been only a handful(less then 5) members I can recall that have had a fuel pump relay problem.

But good info anyway.[/QUOTE


we have the same issue, we have a 2002 Honda Accord. We noticed sometimes it will start other times it won't. We pulled out the main relay switch just enough and if we flick it before starting the car we will hear the main fuel pump, if we don't flick it it won't work. Replaced everything and now need a new main relay.

 

Typically you can just reflow the solder joints on the relay rather than replace it outright

 

I'm having this same problem glad I found the thread diagnosing the relay. Going to reflow the solder joints tomorrow pretty sure this'll fix me right up. It only happens on my car when it's really hot out so think this is my answer. Thanks for the great info.

 

There should be a jingle: "When your Honda cranks but won't start, reflow the joints in your fuel pump relay!" But just a little catchier...

I forgot to say that my '90 Legend had THIS SAME PROBLEM.

 

"When yer Honda cranks but won't catch on a hot day,
Git out yer iron, and solder away"
"Don't matter what it looks like,
"Don't matter what the stealer say,
"Yer uncle Tosh is gonna reflow all them joints on that dang re-lay"

 

 

I pulled my relay today after having start up problems described throughout this post. Is this relay redeemable, or is the board fried?

Also, I did not have to take the entire relay box out, i simply pried it open from the plastic clips on the box, then unplugged, so everything should go right back together the way it was.

 

What's on the other side of that burned trace?

 

Its one of the points connected to the red spool thing. Guess the only way to know for sure is to just resolder and hope for the best

 

It's only the solder mask that's a bit scorched, so you should re-solder it. But you should also re-solder (re-flow) all the large joints that have large component leads going through them, as any early breaks from vibration will be invisible.

 

Relays are pretty study—it's just a switch with an electromagnet to activate it—and the voltage is low in the application (not much chance of fried/fused contacts). Unless the board's visibly damaged beyond repair, reflowing the solder joints should fix it.

 

Fiddling? Ton of time? It takes maybe two minutes to reflow all of the solder joints, if you take your time.

It helps if you have a soldering iron and solder handy, but I would hope that those who don't, or aren't up to the task, would buy a new part.

Currently awaiting delivery of a door checker, to get rid of that pesky squeak...

 

My 2003 Acura cl had those issues along with not starting till the tow truck jostled it around then bingo started. Then started for long periods of time till next no start. New fuel pump relay was the cure all.