blinking CEL and bogging down at higher RPM
06-10-2010, 08:40 AM
#1
blinking CEL and bogging down at higher RPM
I was racing a newer mustang GT last night and my car felt like it was making no power above 3k rpm and then it would shoot forward like an explosion at 5k and up in every gear.
in 3rd gear the light started flashing at 5k and i shut it down.
mustang was one car length ahead and i was dead even at the time BTW. (i was shocked because he pulled hard in 2nd and then kind of sucked it up in 3rd)
i been reading that the flashing CEL means its a misfire? would this be the cause of the bogging too? it happens when the AC is on or was on within the last 20 mins
in 3rd gear the light started flashing at 5k and i shut it down.
mustang was one car length ahead and i was dead even at the time BTW. (i was shocked because he pulled hard in 2nd and then kind of sucked it up in 3rd)
i been reading that the flashing CEL means its a misfire? would this be the cause of the bogging too? it happens when the AC is on or was on within the last 20 mins
06-10-2010, 09:19 AM
#3
Senior Moderator
Does the cel go off, or stop flashing?
A coilpack is often the issue. Also another thing to look at would the the fuel injectors, and do a compression test
A coilpack is often the issue. Also another thing to look at would the the fuel injectors, and do a compression test
06-10-2010, 09:55 AM
#6
exact symptoms of this mustang
"And it's an intermittent miss. Example, cold leaving the house, it runs fine for 30 seconds, then begins to miss randomly, clear up for a few seconds, start missing again. Wide open throttle it runs fine, all other throttle positions it misses. It only backfires when it bogs real bad. And it gets better with increased rpms, seems to clear up, in most cases, over 3000 rpms but sometimes it carries on up to 4000+.
"
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...-backfire.html
"And it's an intermittent miss. Example, cold leaving the house, it runs fine for 30 seconds, then begins to miss randomly, clear up for a few seconds, start missing again. Wide open throttle it runs fine, all other throttle positions it misses. It only backfires when it bogs real bad. And it gets better with increased rpms, seems to clear up, in most cases, over 3000 rpms but sometimes it carries on up to 4000+.
"
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...-backfire.html
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06-10-2010, 10:47 AM
#9
ive reset the battery a few times since its been doing it. and its kind of runs better but goes right back to it.
im currently making a PCB that hooks up the 02 sensor and tricks the ecu into reading a diff voltage. pretty simple stuff, just have no time to finish this week.
im currently making a PCB that hooks up the 02 sensor and tricks the ecu into reading a diff voltage. pretty simple stuff, just have no time to finish this week.
06-10-2010, 11:17 AM
#10
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I know that this does not answer your flashing CEL and such; but, maybe this is related to the surging that you mention in the other thread.
06-10-2010, 02:54 PM
#13
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
You're still running the TL-P ecu right?
06-10-2010, 08:00 PM
#14
Hmm. Topped off the oil and it runs ok now. But it still has lower power at the higher rpm band. I never considered it being the fuel pump. However, I will be tearing into it tommorow and the fuel system is what I'm checking.
Type-s ecu will be going in next Wednesday. Had to figure out the wiring.
Type-s ecu will be going in next Wednesday. Had to figure out the wiring.
06-11-2010, 12:24 PM
#17
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
VTEC system malfunction (low oil, clogged solenoid) and evap leakage. Copied this from HT:
Its not exact for our car, but it should help.
P1457 won't make the car run bad at all. It just means the EVAP canister & the related system of hoses & valves isn't airtight.
Check this stuff in this order. As soon as you find something that doesn't behave like it should, fix or replace it. Then hope it was the only thing wrong with the system...
Some background for the electrical troubleshooting:
All the solenoid valves have constant +12v supply from the main relay. When the ECM wants to energize a valve, it closes the ground side of it's circuit. If the +12v supply is broken, then the ECM can't energize the valve. If the wire to the ECM is shorted to ground, then the valve is energized even when the ECM doesn't want it to be.
EVAP Purge Control valve - between intake manifold & valve cover.
Valve should be normally closed, so it will hold vacuum when it's not energized. Ground is supplied by pin A6 of the ECM to open the valve. So jumper pin A6 to ground, turn on the ignition, and check again - this time it should NOT hold vacuum.
EVAP 2-way valve - underneath the car roughly under the left-rear seat.
It's a little can with 3 hose barbs & a solenoid valve attached to it. Leave the connection on top, disconnect both on the side, attach MityVac to lower one. Normally open, when the solenoid valve is energized, it should hold vacuum.
EVAP Vent Shut valve - attached to the charcoal canister underneath the car.
Normaly open - when ECM closes pin A4 to ground, it should hold vacuum.
EVAP Charcoal Canister - the big can under the car, about under the left-rear seat.
Leak test: Connect all the hoses together, plug the Vent Shut valve, connect the MityVac. Pump vacuum while watching the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor. You can read FTP sensor voltage with a scan tool, or use a voltmeter between pins A29 & C18 at the ECM. Pump down to 1.5v & it should hold that vacuum for at least 20 seconds.
EVAP 2-way valve vacuum & pressure test.
If you get this far you'll want the manual for a good picture of how to connect the hoses. Keep pumping the vacuum pump & it should stabilize between 6 & 16 mm Hg of vacuum. Then pump pressure, it should stabilize at 8 mm Hg or more of pressure.
Then there's a test of the ORVR Vent Shut valve, which is located on top of the gas tank. You check vacuum & pressure at a couple hoses alongside the fuel filler pipe. If the valve is bad you drop the gas tank to replace it...
Check this stuff in this order. As soon as you find something that doesn't behave like it should, fix or replace it. Then hope it was the only thing wrong with the system...
Some background for the electrical troubleshooting:
All the solenoid valves have constant +12v supply from the main relay. When the ECM wants to energize a valve, it closes the ground side of it's circuit. If the +12v supply is broken, then the ECM can't energize the valve. If the wire to the ECM is shorted to ground, then the valve is energized even when the ECM doesn't want it to be.
EVAP Purge Control valve - between intake manifold & valve cover.
Valve should be normally closed, so it will hold vacuum when it's not energized. Ground is supplied by pin A6 of the ECM to open the valve. So jumper pin A6 to ground, turn on the ignition, and check again - this time it should NOT hold vacuum.
EVAP 2-way valve - underneath the car roughly under the left-rear seat.
It's a little can with 3 hose barbs & a solenoid valve attached to it. Leave the connection on top, disconnect both on the side, attach MityVac to lower one. Normally open, when the solenoid valve is energized, it should hold vacuum.
EVAP Vent Shut valve - attached to the charcoal canister underneath the car.
Normaly open - when ECM closes pin A4 to ground, it should hold vacuum.
EVAP Charcoal Canister - the big can under the car, about under the left-rear seat.
Leak test: Connect all the hoses together, plug the Vent Shut valve, connect the MityVac. Pump vacuum while watching the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor. You can read FTP sensor voltage with a scan tool, or use a voltmeter between pins A29 & C18 at the ECM. Pump down to 1.5v & it should hold that vacuum for at least 20 seconds.
EVAP 2-way valve vacuum & pressure test.
If you get this far you'll want the manual for a good picture of how to connect the hoses. Keep pumping the vacuum pump & it should stabilize between 6 & 16 mm Hg of vacuum. Then pump pressure, it should stabilize at 8 mm Hg or more of pressure.
Then there's a test of the ORVR Vent Shut valve, which is located on top of the gas tank. You check vacuum & pressure at a couple hoses alongside the fuel filler pipe. If the valve is bad you drop the gas tank to replace it...
Last edited by civicdrivr; 06-11-2010 at 12:32 PM.
06-11-2010, 04:13 PM
#19
yea. did a leakdown and all cylinders are fine.
headgasket is good
injectors are fine
plugs are fine
fuel pressure is good
oil was low so i topped it off and the VTEC code is gone (duh)
i fixed the evap code, one of the hoses came off.
as for the 02 code, the 2nd 02 sensor is the one that just checks for a different in HC and has nothing to do with the A/F ratio.
car is fine now so i guess the guys who did my oil when i was on the mountain must have not put in enough (fuckin rednecks) but thats what i get when i dont do my work myself.
first oil change that i didnt do myself and look what i get
glad to see my engine is strong and super healthy
headgasket is good
injectors are fine
plugs are fine
fuel pressure is good
oil was low so i topped it off and the VTEC code is gone (duh)
i fixed the evap code, one of the hoses came off.
as for the 02 code, the 2nd 02 sensor is the one that just checks for a different in HC and has nothing to do with the A/F ratio.
car is fine now so i guess the guys who did my oil when i was on the mountain must have not put in enough (fuckin rednecks) but thats what i get when i dont do my work myself.
first oil change that i didnt do myself and look what i get
glad to see my engine is strong and super healthy
06-11-2010, 04:32 PM
#20
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Good stuff.
And for the O2 sensor, why not just get a defouler?
And for the O2 sensor, why not just get a defouler?
06-11-2010, 04:59 PM
#21
i think im having sometimes the change engine/exhaust note randomly but as far no CEL...
and i m having similar symptoms... 3k rpms then its nothing then 5k and wooooot
i like it... im worring about that exhaust change note my engine act weird during last couple weeks like i started it hot then it almost died but i rev it and was fine happened few times... no codes no nothing... spark plugs 25k on them. only 93 super fuel... oil fine
i think it may be a valves they needs to be adjusted... but i never over reved the car.
and i m having similar symptoms... 3k rpms then its nothing then 5k and wooooot
i like it... im worring about that exhaust change note my engine act weird during last couple weeks like i started it hot then it almost died but i rev it and was fine happened few times... no codes no nothing... spark plugs 25k on them. only 93 super fuel... oil fine i think it may be a valves they needs to be adjusted... but i never over reved the car.
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