Hey everyone I have an 01 CL-S with 167xxx miles and recently it shut off randomly when I left a relatives. About a week later it isn't starting. Still cranks strong but won't start. I don't have the CEL on so not sure what to do. I checked the main fuel relay for cracks on circuit board like I saw on another post and looks fine. Spark plugs were changed about 1k miles ago. Car was not having any issues or CEL since I've owned for a couple years and always has ran great (getting about 30mpg).

I've researched a bit and saw a few possible fixes but wanted to know if sensors can be checked before I replace them and/or any other things I can do to start my troubleshooting. Thanks in advance.

Yes, the car has gas 😁

 

Try tapping the fuel rely while starting the car at the same time..

 

Skillz89, did you find the root cause of your starting issue?

I'm having a similar issue where, if the car sits for more than a few days it cranks but doesn't start (2003 CLS MT6).

I followed the CL manual diagnostic flowchart and determined that the fuel pump was getting current but not not running. A couple of hits with a rubber hammer on the top of the fuel tank woke it up and the car started.

After replacing the fuel pump a week later the same no start issue returned. Not hearing the pump energize at key-on, I replaced the main relay with a used spare and it started right up.

However after a few days the no-start condition re-appeared. Swapped the main relay and it started right up.

Next step is to replace the main relay with an OEM part (yeah, the ones that eventually fail) but may last longer than this duo of Airtex/Wells relays.

 

Well it was hard to find out because it was a very intermittent issue and only happened twice in about 2 months. I re-soldered the main relay and it was fine for a few weeks. When it happened again I took it back out and saw it was cracked so I bought a new relay and it has been working since so I'm guessing that was the fix.

I was going to look into cleaning the MAF if it ever came back in a short time. The one thing I also did before I bought a new relay was take apart the fuel line by the throttle body and when I cranked it wasn't getting fuel so it led me to check solder and replacing the main relay.

Hope this helps.

 

Skillz89, Thanks for the update. It seems to be the main relay for me as well. Replacing with genuine Honda.

 

Took the old working/not-working relay out, opened it, inspected it, tested it for continuity and relay operation as per the manual, slightly pushed the terminals to make for a "tighter" connection when installed(why not?), and reinstalled it.

OF COURSE IT WORKED. But I can't trust it. Possibly tweaking the terminals closed a hairline open solder joint.

Stoopid Honda Main Relays. I'll replace it with the new OEM unit when it arrives.

 

I ended up buying one from AutoZone with lifetime warranty in case it occurs again while I own it but I used the one I re-soldered for about 2 months before I ended up just swapping it out before it left my wife stranded. She wouldn't have been happy

 

2001 CL-S 170K miles.

It has happened twice. I am driving along just fine and the car just stops running. The first time (a couple of weeks ago) it started right away. The second time (just today) it took several tries before it started.

After reading this post I am thinking fuel pump relay. Do you agree?

 

The factory shop manual says PGM-FI Main Relay. What does PGM-FI stand for?

 

LMGTFY: https://www.google.com/search?q=pgm+...hrome&ie=UTF-8

 

and yes agree.

 

Yes but I would still attempt to change the main relay before the fuel pump. Cheaper and easier to do.

 

ok... PGM-FI = Programmed Fuel Injection. I thought it was an acronym for something.

 

Which would be better, the OEM PGM-FI relay or and aftermarket relay by WVE/AIRTEX/WELLS or STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS from RockAuto? The OEM is roughly twice the price of aftermarket ($63 vs. $32-$38).

 

Well I would say see which one has a better warranty. And depending how long you plan on keeping the car. If you plan to keep for a long time then get OEM.