7 - 8 lb S/C Pulley
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
7 - 8 lb S/C Pulley
Since I have swapped at j35a3 in my CL last year after I blew my j32a2 with the supercharger I am looking to get the 7 - 8 lb pulley but I am having a hard time finding the part number for it so I can purchase it. I have the high boost pulley on the supercharger now which produced 4.5 - 5 lbs with the j32a2. Correct me if I'm wrong but with that same pulley isn't it going to be a little less boost on the bigger displacement j35a3? That's why I want to get a 7 - 8 lb pulley.
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Here is a 4 rib 3.12" pulley I found for you back in Jan2017 from summit racing when you were asking a similar question:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vor-2a034-312
Then Marcelechka chimed in with the comment below recommending a 3.2" pulley based on his personal experience.
You can find this pulley/PSI 'discussion' on page 6, starting with post #204 on your thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/serious-help-needed-949436/page6/
It should help refresh your memory and help you decide. It just might turn out to be a 'grand experiment', in regards to which size to get for the PSI you are looking for because of the added displacement of the J35A3 vs a J32A2..
Hopefully, Karanx7 with chime in with the pulley configuration he is running with his M60 on a J35A3.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vor-2a034-312
Then Marcelechka chimed in with the comment below recommending a 3.2" pulley based on his personal experience.
3.12" is pushing it.
Terry from SFLP recommended making me the 3.2" pulley based on my configuration at the time. Had to gain what was lost due to plumbing... 3.275" alt + 3.2" blower shaft will net 10 to 12lbs without an intercooler.
As mentioned before, you'll need bigger injectors & a method to tune.
Heat soak will also be an issue (specially in FL) as the blower is operating well beyond it's efficiency range to be effective.
Terry from SFLP recommended making me the 3.2" pulley based on my configuration at the time. Had to gain what was lost due to plumbing... 3.275" alt + 3.2" blower shaft will net 10 to 12lbs without an intercooler.
As mentioned before, you'll need bigger injectors & a method to tune.
Heat soak will also be an issue (specially in FL) as the blower is operating well beyond it's efficiency range to be effective.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/serious-help-needed-949436/page6/
It should help refresh your memory and help you decide. It just might turn out to be a 'grand experiment', in regards to which size to get for the PSI you are looking for because of the added displacement of the J35A3 vs a J32A2..
Hopefully, Karanx7 with chime in with the pulley configuration he is running with his M60 on a J35A3.
The following users liked this post:
Taseen Syed (09-17-2024)
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank you Zeta! Yes, I remember that I had talked about this subject awhile ago. My hbp is 3.33" (stamped right on the s/c Pulley) and my alternator pulley is 3". I think I'm going to purchase the one you mentioned (3.12"), only because I don't think that S/C can support much more than that. Also don't want to blow it up again. Lol
On a different note, has anyone had any luck with the AEM EMS 30-6051 working with the manual harness? Researching online all I've found was that boomslang makes a jumper harness that works but has some issues with certain things.
On a different note, has anyone had any luck with the AEM EMS 30-6051 working with the manual harness? Researching online all I've found was that boomslang makes a jumper harness that works but has some issues with certain things.
Last edited by 2ndgentl; 12-13-2018 at 09:16 PM.
The following users liked this post:
zeta (12-14-2018)
#4
Instructor
I used Pulley Boys Comptech 4 Groove Keyed Pulley 3.2" diameter. I was just tuned last month, we saw 8lbs on the dyno with that pulley.
Here's the link:
https://pulleyboys.com/cart/comptech...category_id=21
Here's the link:
https://pulleyboys.com/cart/comptech...category_id=21
The following users liked this post:
zeta (12-15-2018)
#5
Instructor
Thank you Zeta! Yes, I remember that I had talked about this subject awhile ago. My hbp is 3.33" (stamped right on the s/c Pulley) and my alternator pulley is 3". I think I'm going to purchase the one you mentioned (3.12"), only because I don't think that S/C can support much more than that. Also don't want to blow it up again. Lol
On a different note, has anyone had any luck with the AEM EMS 30-6051 working with the manual harness? Researching online all I've found was that boomslang makes a jumper harness that works but has some issues with certain things.
On a different note, has anyone had any luck with the AEM EMS 30-6051 working with the manual harness? Researching online all I've found was that boomslang makes a jumper harness that works but has some issues with certain things.
The following users liked this post:
zeta (12-15-2018)
#6
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I used Pulley Boys Comptech 4 Groove Keyed Pulley 3.2" diameter. I was just tuned last month, we saw 8lbs on the dyno with that pulley.
Here's the link:
https://pulleyboys.com/cart/comptech...category_id=21
Here's the link:
https://pulleyboys.com/cart/comptech...category_id=21
And that schematic looks to have the information 2ndgentl needs to get his AEM EMS 30-6051 up and running.
Very informative post.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Holy shit Bluedc2!!! Thanks a lot for passing all that info, very much appreciated!!! Are you running a J32 or J35, because 8 lbs of psi is around where I'd like to be. Also, what kind of power were you making at 8 psi?
Last edited by 2ndgentl; 12-15-2018 at 08:37 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Instructor
My CL has a JDM J32a on 7lbs it made 320hp and 290tq BUT my clutch was slipping BAD on the dyno so I’m sure it would have made more. Glad the diagram could help!
Last edited by bluedc2; 12-15-2018 at 08:49 PM.
#9
Instructor
#10
Instructor
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank you Chris! 320 hp and 290 tq @ 7psi with a slipping clutch isn't bad at all!! Sucks that you have to do a clutch job real soon though. Do you have a clutch in mind that you're going to use? Also, are you running the stock flywheel or aluminum? I need to hurry up and just get my car dyno'd now so I can have a before and after the S/C results. - Joe
#12
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
the 'Base 3.0" alternator pulley'
OR
the 'High Boost 3.275" alternator pulley'
To get to the 7-8psi with the pulley boy 3.2" S/C'er shaft pulley?
I'm thinking you have the 'base alt. 3.0" pulley because Marcelechka claims he achieved 10-12psi with a 3.2' S/C'er pulley using the HBP Alt. 3.275" pulley noted above without the FMI.
Last edited by zeta; 12-15-2018 at 09:52 PM.
#13
Instructor
Just to clarify, Chris, are you utilizing:
the 'Base 3.0" alternator pulley'
OR
the 'High Boost 3.275" alternator pulley'
To get to the 7-8psi with the pulley boy 3.2" S/C'er shaft pulley?
I'm thinking you have the 'base alt. 3.0" pulley because Marcelechka claims he achieved 10-12psi with a 3.2' S/C'er pulley using the HBP Alt. 3.275" pulley noted above without the FMI.
the 'Base 3.0" alternator pulley'
OR
the 'High Boost 3.275" alternator pulley'
To get to the 7-8psi with the pulley boy 3.2" S/C'er shaft pulley?
I'm thinking you have the 'base alt. 3.0" pulley because Marcelechka claims he achieved 10-12psi with a 3.2' S/C'er pulley using the HBP Alt. 3.275" pulley noted above without the FMI.
The following users liked this post:
zeta (12-16-2018)
#15
Instructor
Thank you Chris! 320 hp and 290 tq @ 7psi with a slipping clutch isn't bad at all!! Sucks that you have to do a clutch job real soon though. Do you have a clutch in mind that you're going to use? Also, are you running the stock flywheel or aluminum? I need to hurry up and just get my car dyno'd now so I can have a before and after the S/C results. - Joe
Ive dumped thousands into this car fixing his mistakes and finally now 3 months ago getting the car runing right, hense why I sent Dezod AEM. I blew my first motor after finally purchasing the Dezod kit, THR CAR WAS ON THE DYNO! And the motor went. I wasn’t surprised though, it was never running right (I purchased it supercharged with HBP) since I purchased it.
That’s explain why I have a JDM J32a now I purchased from HMOtrs w/ 50k miles. She’s strong as a rock now!
#16
Instructor
So the previous owner of my CL had a j35 in it before and was running HBP and when he put a J32 back in before I purchased it was still reading 5lbs. If that helps you any, I’m thinking it will all be the same.
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Joe, I have OEM flywheel that was actually just installed 6 months ago. So long story short, I purchased the car with a ASSCO light weight flywheel (car reved much fast but I hated the over rev in betwen shifts) and a CEL light for the crank shaft position sensor. Thinking flywheel was the cause I put a brand new OEM one in. Turned out it wasn’t the flywheel, it was because the previous owner put a j35 reluctor wheel instead of J32. The previous owner also lied and said he put a new clutch in the car and obviously that’s not true as a year later it’s slipping already. So when I had the flywheel done I didn’t even thing to change the clutch because I though I was new. 🤦🏾♂️
Ive dumped thousands into this car fixing his mistakes and finally now 3 months ago getting the car runing right, hense why I sent Dezod AEM. I blew my first motor after finally purchasing the Dezod kit, THR CAR WAS ON THE DYNO! And the motor went. I wasn’t surprised though, it was never running right (I purchased it supercharged with HBP) since I purchased it.
That’s explain why I have a JDM J32a now I purchased from HMOtrs w/ 50k miles. She’s strong as a rock now!
#18
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I had the HBP (3.33") on my j32a2 and it was producing 5 lbs of boost. Ended up blowing my engine (didn't get it tuned soon enough). I went through two j32a2 engines from the junkyard and both were bad (one had a cracked block, and the other had low compression). That is why I ended up with a j35a3. Did you purchase your jumper harness through boomslang or Dezod? I just want to make sure I get the same setup as yours. I can't wait to hear that whine again...
#19
Instructor
Damn, sounds like you've had a lot of sleepless nights with that CL, but glad you moved forward with it and got everything resolved! I love seeing people still interested in these CL's after knowing there's hundreds of other cars out there to choose from. That must of been hard to see your engine blow as it was getting dyno tuned...
#20
Instructor
I had the HBP (3.33") on my j32a2 and it was producing 5 lbs of boost. Ended up blowing my engine (didn't get it tuned soon enough). I went through two j32a2 engines from the junkyard and both were bad (one had a cracked block, and the other had low compression). That is why I ended up with a j35a3. Did you purchase your jumper harness through boomslang or Dezod? I just want to make sure I get the same setup as yours. I can't wait to hear that whine again...
#23
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Joe, I have OEM flywheel that was actually just installed 6 months ago. So long story short, I purchased the car with a ASSCO light weight flywheel (car reved much fast but I hated the over rev in betwen shifts) and a CEL light for the crank shaft position sensor. Thinking flywheel was the cause I put a brand new OEM one in. Turned out it wasn’t the flywheel, it was because the previous owner put a j35 reluctor wheel instead of J32.
Just an FYI, Chris. You may already know this or have it already installed on your car. There is a Mugen fan switch and low temp thermostat modification that turns on the fans sooner to get things cooler. From what I understand, with this mod, you don't 'gain' any power per se; however, it keeps you from 'loosing power' when stopped or in slow moving traffic. It will affect the cabin heat function, slightly, in colder climes, so be aware. The part numbers are below IF you don't already have them installed and are interested:
THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000
Furthermore, if you or Joe need to replace or upgrade your OEM radiator to an aluminum one there are options which are discussed on the thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pgrade-960326/
#24
Instructor
Dam, that sounds like a nightmare. I'm sitting here thinking why would the previous owner think that a 'timing belt drive pulley with reluctor' from an automatic engine, either J35 or J32, would have worked on a manual transmission CL-S configuration. The part numbers for the automatic '02 J35 TB drive pulley' is the same as the automatic '01-03 J32 TB drive pulley'. So, that means you / your mechanic had to hunt down the cause, the wrong TB drive pulley, and then purchase the correct one to eliminate the CEL. By that time, unbeknownst to you, the engine may have already been damaged, in some way, to cause it to 'grenade' on the dyno after being fixed with the proper 6-speed TB drive pulley.
Just an FYI, Chris. You may already know this or have it already installed on your car. There is a Mugen fan switch and low temp thermostat modification that turns on the fans sooner to get things cooler. From what I understand, with this mod, you don't 'gain' any power per se; however, it keeps you from 'loosing power' when stopped or in slow moving traffic. It will affect the cabin heat function, slightly, in colder climes, so be aware. The part numbers are below IF you don't already have them installed and are interested:
THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000
Furthermore, if you or Joe need to replace or upgrade your OEM radiator to an aluminum one there are options which are discussed on the thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pgrade-960326/
Just an FYI, Chris. You may already know this or have it already installed on your car. There is a Mugen fan switch and low temp thermostat modification that turns on the fans sooner to get things cooler. From what I understand, with this mod, you don't 'gain' any power per se; however, it keeps you from 'loosing power' when stopped or in slow moving traffic. It will affect the cabin heat function, slightly, in colder climes, so be aware. The part numbers are below IF you don't already have them installed and are interested:
THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000
Furthermore, if you or Joe need to replace or upgrade your OEM radiator to an aluminum one there are options which are discussed on the thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pgrade-960326/
The following users liked this post:
zeta (12-16-2018)
#25
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#27
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000
Furthermore, if you or Joe need to replace or upgrade your OEM radiator to an aluminum one there are options which are discussed on the thread below:
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pgrade-960326/
#28
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^^
That's the 'Connector A' 'Connector B' 'Connector E' box diagram illustrated in the middle of the schematic supplied by Chris in post #6 above.
That's the 'Connector A' 'Connector B' 'Connector E' box diagram illustrated in the middle of the schematic supplied by Chris in post #6 above.
#29
Instructor
Is this the kit I need? Also, I already have the AEM EMS SERIES 2 30-6051, do I let the tuner switch the box to hall sensors or is that as easy as it sounds? I see a smaller box attached to your green harness, not sure what that is. Sorry for all the questions, but things that really interest me is like my caffeine in the morning. I get excited when I learn new things. Lol
#30
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Wow Chris, the 4th one you've owned! That's awesome! Every time I run across a clean 03 6-speed CL-S on Craigslist or FB Market I always have drawbacks whether I should buy it or not. Then I think to myself "what the hell are you doing...." Lol But for the price these cars are going for it's kind of hard not to want one. I really can't think of another car as nice/quick/reliable/sporty/luxurious/and different as these cars that you can buy for under $5k
#31
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
1) make a copy of the schematic Chris provided in post #6
2) contact Boomslang directly and talk to them about making you a 'harness' compatible to the AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT based on the schematic provided.
3) cross your fingers and toes that they agree; otherwise, they may not agree because that 'harness' may be proprietary to Dezod
#32
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
2ndgentl, this is what I would do:
1) make a copy of the schematic Chris provided in post #6
2) contact Boomslang directly and talk to them about making you a 'harness' compatible to the AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT based on the schematic provided.
3) cross your fingers and toes that they agree; otherwise, they may not agree because that 'harness' may be proprietary to Dezod
1) make a copy of the schematic Chris provided in post #6
2) contact Boomslang directly and talk to them about making you a 'harness' compatible to the AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT based on the schematic provided.
3) cross your fingers and toes that they agree; otherwise, they may not agree because that 'harness' may be proprietary to Dezod
#33
Instructor
2ndgentl, this is what I would do:
1) make a copy of the schematic Chris provided in post #6
2) contact Boomslang directly and talk to them about making you a 'harness' compatible to the AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT based on the schematic provided.
3) cross your fingers and toes that they agree; otherwise, they may not agree because that 'harness' may be proprietary to Dezod
1) make a copy of the schematic Chris provided in post #6
2) contact Boomslang directly and talk to them about making you a 'harness' compatible to the AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT based on the schematic provided.
3) cross your fingers and toes that they agree; otherwise, they may not agree because that 'harness' may be proprietary to Dezod
The following users liked this post:
zeta (12-16-2018)
#34
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If Dezod refuses to make ONLY the harness for you, for whatever reason. Technically, since you have the schematic, if you can source all the appropriate connectors, wiring and the box the CL harness connects into, you could make one yourself. Sourcing that 'stuff' online should not be that hard and readily available. You will have to follow the schematic and 'pin' the wires to their appropriate connector location. It will just take time and patience. Then of course, there is the matter of switching the AEM EMS 30-6051 box to hall sensors, which should not be to difficult, although opening the box will probably void any warranty.
Good Luck!
The following users liked this post:
zeta (12-16-2018)
#36
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
Nice Chris.
Nice Chris.
#37
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#38
Instructor
Chris is a good guy and is always willing to help. Yeah, I’d ask him about switching the sensors. I would just contact him Via Facebook. Chris Harrell is his name. His profile picture has a Dezod logo on it.
#39
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Most definitely Zeta! I will be sure to take pics of everything I do that I think would be helpful to others. I also have a neighbor across the street from me that races his car at Sebring, Florida. The guy reminds me of the "Rain Man" but in tuning/building race cars from scratch. The guy has been doing his own work ( fabricating, tuning, ect. ) for over 40 years. He races a 93 body style RX7 which the car looks like it's on steroids and there is absolutely nothing stock on this car, including the frame, body, suspension, ect. Where I'm going with this is that he is very helpful on helping me out with any questions I have about my car. I'll see if I can find any pics of his car later. I messaged Dezod (Chris) and now waiting for his response. I don't expect him to respond me on a Sunday, but I'll post a pic of our conversation afterwards