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-   2G CL Problems & Fixes (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/)
-   -   7 - 8 lb S/C Pulley (https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/7-8-lb-s-c-pulley-975609/)

2ndgentl 12-13-2018 08:29 AM

7 - 8 lb S/C Pulley
 
Since I have swapped at j35a3 in my CL last year after I blew my j32a2 with the supercharger I am looking to get the 7 - 8 lb pulley but I am having a hard time finding the part number for it so I can purchase it. I have the high boost pulley on the supercharger now which produced 4.5 - 5 lbs with the j32a2. Correct me if I'm wrong but with that same pulley isn't it going to be a little less boost on the bigger displacement j35a3? That's why I want to get a 7 - 8 lb pulley.

zeta 12-13-2018 11:49 AM

Here is a 4 rib 3.12" pulley I found for you back in Jan2017 from summit racing when you were asking a similar question:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vor-2a034-312

Then Marcelechka chimed in with the comment below recommending a 3.2" pulley based on his personal experience.



Originally Posted by Marcelechka (Post 15942994)
3.12" is pushing it.

Terry from SFLP recommended making me the 3.2" pulley based on my configuration at the time. Had to gain what was lost due to plumbing... 3.275" alt + 3.2" blower shaft will net 10 to 12lbs without an intercooler.

As mentioned before, you'll need bigger injectors & a method to tune.

Heat soak will also be an issue (specially in FL) as the blower is operating well beyond it's efficiency range to be effective. :explode:

You can find this pulley/PSI 'discussion' on page 6, starting with post #204 on your thread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-problems-fixes-70/serious-help-needed-949436/page6/

It should help refresh your memory and help you decide. It just might turn out to be a 'grand experiment', in regards to which size to get for the PSI you are looking for because of the added displacement of the J35A3 vs a J32A2..

Hopefully, Karanx7 with chime in with the pulley configuration he is running with his M60 on a J35A3. :dunno: :) :thumbsup:

2ndgentl 12-13-2018 09:11 PM

Thank you Zeta! Yes, I remember that I had talked about this subject awhile ago. My hbp is 3.33" (stamped right on the s/c Pulley) and my alternator pulley is 3". I think I'm going to purchase the one you mentioned (3.12"), only because I don't think that S/C can support much more than that. Also don't want to blow it up again. Lol
On a different note, has anyone had any luck with the AEM EMS 30-6051 working with the manual harness? Researching online all I've found was that boomslang makes a jumper harness that works but has some issues with certain things.

bluedc2 12-15-2018 06:50 PM

I used Pulley Boys Comptech 4 Groove Keyed Pulley 3.2" diameter. I was just tuned last month, we saw 8lbs on the dyno with that pulley.

Here's the link:
https://pulleyboys.com/cart/comptech...category_id=21

bluedc2 12-15-2018 06:57 PM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16349946)
Thank you Zeta! Yes, I remember that I had talked about this subject awhile ago. My hbp is 3.33" (stamped right on the s/c Pulley) and my alternator pulley is 3". I think I'm going to purchase the one you mentioned (3.12"), only because I don't think that S/C can support much more than that. Also don't want to blow it up again. Lol
On a different note, has anyone had any luck with the AEM EMS 30-6051 working with the manual harness? Researching online all I've found was that boomslang makes a jumper harness that works but has some issues with certain things.

Wonder if it's the same one Dezod uses, my harness with my Dezod kit came from Boomslang. I can upload the schematic that came with if anyone would like to see it

zeta 12-15-2018 08:22 PM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350724)
I used Pulley Boys Comptech 4 Groove Keyed Pulley 3.2" diameter. I was just tuned last month, we saw 8lbs on the dyno with that pulley.

Here's the link:
https://pulleyboys.com/cart/comptech...category_id=21

Nice find on the pulleys bluedc2.

And that schematic looks to have the information 2ndgentl needs to get his AEM EMS 30-6051 up and running. :wish:
Very informative post. :thumbsup:



2ndgentl 12-15-2018 08:30 PM

Holy shit Bluedc2!!! Thanks a lot for passing all that info, very much appreciated!!! Are you running a J32 or J35, because 8 lbs of psi is around where I'd like to be. Also, what kind of power were you making at 8 psi?

bluedc2 12-15-2018 08:45 PM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350774)
Holy shit Bluedc2!!! Thanks a lot for passing all that info, very much appreciated!!! Are you running a J32 or J35, because 8 lbs of psi is around where I'd like to be. Also, what kind of power were you making at 8 psi?

My CL has a JDM J32a on 7lbs it made 320hp and 290tq BUT my clutch was slipping BAD on the dyno so I’m sure it would have made more. Glad the diagram could help!

bluedc2 12-15-2018 08:47 PM


Originally Posted by zeta (Post 16350770)
Nice find on the pulleys bluedc2.

And that schematic looks to have the information 2ndgentl needs to get his AEM EMS 30-6051 up and running. :wish:
Very informative post. :thumbsup:

Glad I could help!

bluedc2 12-15-2018 08:56 PM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350782)


My CL has a JDM J32a on 7lbs it made 320hp and 290tq BUT my clutch was slipping BAD on the dyno so I’m sure it would have made more. Glad the diagram could help!

Forgot to add, the pulley location is on the supercharger shaft. Oh and my name is Chris. Lol

2ndgentl 12-15-2018 09:07 PM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350785)


Forgot to add, the pulley location is on the supercharger shaft. Oh and my name is Chris. Lol

Thank you Chris! 320 hp and 290 tq @ 7psi with a slipping clutch isn't bad at all!! Sucks that you have to do a clutch job real soon though. Do you have a clutch in mind that you're going to use? Also, are you running the stock flywheel or aluminum? I need to hurry up and just get my car dyno'd now so I can have a before and after the S/C results. - Joe

zeta 12-15-2018 09:45 PM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350724)
I used Pulley Boys Comptech 4 Groove Keyed Pulley 3.2" diameter. I was just tuned last month, we saw 8lbs on the dyno with that pulley.

Just to clarify, Chris, are you utilizing:

the 'Base 3.0" alternator pulley'

OR

the 'High Boost 3.275" alternator pulley'

To get to the 7-8psi with the pulley boy 3.2" S/C'er shaft pulley? :)

I'm thinking you have the 'base alt. 3.0" pulley because Marcelechka claims he achieved 10-12psi with a 3.2' S/C'er pulley using the HBP Alt. 3.275" pulley noted above without the FMI.

bluedc2 12-15-2018 11:25 PM


Originally Posted by zeta (Post 16350801)
Just to clarify, Chris, are you utilizing:

the 'Base 3.0" alternator pulley'

OR

the 'High Boost 3.275" alternator pulley'

To get to the 7-8psi with the pulley boy 3.2" S/C'er shaft pulley? :)

I'm thinking you have the 'base alt. 3.0" pulley because Marcelechka claims he achieved 10-12psi with a 3.2' S/C'er pulley using the HBP Alt. 3.275" pulley noted above without the FMI.

I’m using a base alternator 3” pulley.

2ndgentl 12-15-2018 11:32 PM

I wonder if I should either get the 3.0" or the 3.12" since I have a J35. Im thinking the 3.12" will give me 7-8 psi?

bluedc2 12-15-2018 11:41 PM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350790)
Thank you Chris! 320 hp and 290 tq @ 7psi with a slipping clutch isn't bad at all!! Sucks that you have to do a clutch job real soon though. Do you have a clutch in mind that you're going to use? Also, are you running the stock flywheel or aluminum? I need to hurry up and just get my car dyno'd now so I can have a before and after the S/C results. - Joe

Joe, I have OEM flywheel that was actually just installed 6 months ago. So long story short, I purchased the car with a ASSCO light weight flywheel (car reved much fast but I hated the over rev in betwen shifts) and a CEL light for the crank shaft position sensor. Thinking flywheel was the cause I put a brand new OEM one in. Turned out it wasn’t the flywheel, it was because the previous owner put a j35 reluctor wheel instead of J32. The previous owner also lied and said he put a new clutch in the car and obviously that’s not true as a year later it’s slipping already. So when I had the flywheel done I didn’t even thing to change the clutch because I though I was new. 🤦🏾♂️

Ive dumped thousands into this car fixing his mistakes and finally now 3 months ago getting the car runing right, hense why I sent Dezod AEM. I blew my first motor after finally purchasing the Dezod kit, THR CAR WAS ON THE DYNO! And the motor went. I wasn’t surprised though, it was never running right (I purchased it supercharged with HBP) since I purchased it.

That’s explain why I have a JDM J32a now I purchased from HMOtrs w/ 50k miles. She’s strong as a rock now!

bluedc2 12-15-2018 11:45 PM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350822)
I wonder if I should either get the 3.0" or the 3.12" since I have a J35. Im thinking the 3.12" will give me 7-8 psi?

So the previous owner of my CL had a j35 in it before and was running HBP and when he put a J32 back in before I purchased it was still reading 5lbs. If that helps you any, I’m thinking it will all be the same.

2ndgentl 12-16-2018 12:34 AM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350826)


Joe, I have OEM flywheel that was actually just installed 6 months ago. So long story short, I purchased the car with a ASSCO light weight flywheel (car reved much fast but I hated the over rev in betwen shifts) and a CEL light for the crank shaft position sensor. Thinking flywheel was the cause I put a brand new OEM one in. Turned out it wasn’t the flywheel, it was because the previous owner put a j35 reluctor wheel instead of J32. The previous owner also lied and said he put a new clutch in the car and obviously that’s not true as a year later it’s slipping already. So when I had the flywheel done I didn’t even thing to change the clutch because I though I was new. 🤦🏾♂️

Ive dumped thousands into this car fixing his mistakes and finally now 3 months ago getting the car runing right, hense why I sent Dezod AEM. I blew my first motor after finally purchasing the Dezod kit, THR CAR WAS ON THE DYNO! And the motor went. I wasn’t surprised though, it was never running right (I purchased it supercharged with HBP) since I purchased it.

That’s explain why I have a JDM J32a now I purchased from HMOtrs w/ 50k miles. She’s strong as a rock now!

Damn, sounds like you've had a lot of sleepless nights with that CL, but glad you moved forward with it and got everything resolved! I love seeing people still interested in these CL's after knowing there's hundreds of other cars out there to choose from. That must of been hard to see your engine blow as it was getting dyno tuned...

2ndgentl 12-16-2018 12:47 AM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350828)


So the previous owner of my CL had a j35 in it before and was running HBP and when he put a J32 back in before I purchased it was still reading 5lbs. If that helps you any, I’m thinking it will all be the same.

I had the HBP (3.33") on my j32a2 and it was producing 5 lbs of boost. Ended up blowing my engine (didn't get it tuned soon enough). I went through two j32a2 engines from the junkyard and both were bad (one had a cracked block, and the other had low compression). That is why I ended up with a j35a3. Did you purchase your jumper harness through boomslang or Dezod? I just want to make sure I get the same setup as yours. I can't wait to hear that whine again...

bluedc2 12-16-2018 06:10 AM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350832)
Damn, sounds like you've had a lot of sleepless nights with that CL, but glad you moved forward with it and got everything resolved! I love seeing people still interested in these CL's after knowing there's hundreds of other cars out there to choose from. That must of been hard to see your engine blow as it was getting dyno tuned...

I love these cars! This is the 4th I’ve owned in 6 years of that tells you anything. Haha!

bluedc2 12-16-2018 06:13 AM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350837)
I had the HBP (3.33") on my j32a2 and it was producing 5 lbs of boost. Ended up blowing my engine (didn't get it tuned soon enough). I went through two j32a2 engines from the junkyard and both were bad (one had a cracked block, and the other had low compression). That is why I ended up with a j35a3. Did you purchase your jumper harness through boomslang or Dezod? I just want to make sure I get the same setup as yours. I can't wait to hear that whine again...

My harness came directly from Boomslang. Basically they make them as needed so when someone buys the Dezod kit, Dezod get’s in contact with Boomslang to make the harness. I received my AEM box 2 days after ordering the kit and the harness came about a week later from Boomslang.

bluedc2 12-16-2018 06:17 AM

All the Dezod kit is a AEM box switched to hall sensors and the Boomslang harness.

bluedc2 12-16-2018 07:28 AM


zeta 12-16-2018 07:48 AM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350826)
Joe, I have OEM flywheel that was actually just installed 6 months ago. So long story short, I purchased the car with a ASSCO light weight flywheel (car reved much fast but I hated the over rev in betwen shifts) and a CEL light for the crank shaft position sensor. Thinking flywheel was the cause I put a brand new OEM one in. Turned out it wasn’t the flywheel, it was because the previous owner put a j35 reluctor wheel instead of J32.

Dam, that sounds like a nightmare. I'm sitting here thinking why would the previous owner think that a 'timing belt drive pulley with reluctor' from an automatic engine, either J35 or J32, would have worked on a manual transmission CL-S configuration. :ugh: The part numbers for the automatic '02 J35 TB drive pulley' is the same as the automatic '01-03 J32 TB drive pulley'. So, that means you / your mechanic had to hunt down the cause, the wrong TB drive pulley, and then purchase the correct one to eliminate the CEL.:whyme: By that time, unbeknownst to you, the engine may have already been damaged, in some way, to cause it to 'grenade' on the dyno after being fixed with the proper 6-speed TB drive pulley.

Just an FYI, Chris. You may already know this or have it already installed on your car. There is a Mugen fan switch and low temp thermostat modification that turns on the fans sooner to get things cooler. From what I understand, with this mod, you don't 'gain' any power per se; however, it keeps you from 'loosing power' when stopped or in slow moving traffic. :shrug: It will affect the cabin heat function, slightly, in colder climes, so be aware. The part numbers are below IF you don't already have them installed and are interested:

THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000

Furthermore, if you or Joe need to replace or upgrade your OEM radiator to an aluminum one there are options which are discussed on the thread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pgrade-960326/


:thumbsup:




bluedc2 12-16-2018 08:14 AM


Originally Posted by zeta (Post 16350870)
Dam, that sounds like a nightmare. I'm sitting here thinking why would the previous owner think that a 'timing belt drive pulley with reluctor' from an automatic engine, either J35 or J32, would have worked on a manual transmission CL-S configuration. :ugh: The part numbers for the automatic '02 J35 TB drive pulley' is the same as the automatic '01-03 J32 TB drive pulley'. So, that means you / your mechanic had to hunt down the cause, the wrong TB drive pulley, and then purchase the correct one to eliminate the CEL.:whyme: By that time, unbeknownst to you, the engine may have already been damaged, in some way, to cause it to 'grenade' on the dyno after being fixed with the proper 6-speed TB drive pulley.

Just an FYI, Chris. You may already know this or have it already installed on your car. There is a Mugen fan switch and low temp thermostat modification that turns on the fans sooner to get things cooler. From what I understand, with this mod, you don't 'gain' any power per se; however, it keeps you from 'loosing power' when stopped or in slow moving traffic. :shrug: It will affect the cabin heat function, slightly, in colder climes, so be aware. The part numbers are below IF you don't already have them installed and are interested:

THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000

Furthermore, if you or Joe need to replace or upgrade your OEM radiator to an aluminum one there are options which are discussed on the thread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pgrade-960326/


:thumbsup:

Thanks Zeta, for the information on the Mugen fan switch mod. I will look into that. My tuner is wanting me to go meth injection once the summer heat hits. When it was on the dyno 3 weeks ago the highest intake temps we saw were about 98 degrees which is pretty good. The CL isn't my daily driver, its more of a weekend warrior for me. It sits in the garage usually 6 days out of the week.

2ndgentl 12-16-2018 08:36 AM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350861)
All the Dezod kit is a AEM box switched to hall sensors and the Boomslang harness.

Is this the kit I need? Also, I already have the AEM EMS SERIES 2 30-6051, do I let the tuner switch the box to hall sensors or is that as easy as it sounds? I see a smaller box attached to your green harness, not sure what that is. Sorry for all the questions, but things that really interest me is like my caffeine in the morning. I get excited when I learn new things. Lol
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...ddab2145be.png

2ndgentl 12-16-2018 08:46 AM

Not sure what I'm looking at in the red circle:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...66e8af41ac.png

2ndgentl 12-16-2018 08:53 AM


Originally Posted by zeta (Post 16350870)

THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000

Furthermore, if you or Joe need to replace or upgrade your OEM radiator to an aluminum one there are options which are discussed on the thread below:

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...pgrade-960326/


:thumbsup:

Thanks for reminding me Zeta about those items. I had all those parts (except the aluminum radiator) on my j32a2 but can't seem to find them after the j35 swap (I think I may have left the stat and switch on the first engine I bought from the junkyard that had the crack in the block). I am putting these items on my Christmas list along with the aluminum radiator!

zeta 12-16-2018 08:58 AM

^^
That's the 'Connector A' 'Connector B' 'Connector E' box diagram illustrated in the middle of the schematic supplied by Chris in post #6 above.

bluedc2 12-16-2018 08:59 AM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350880)
Is this the kit I need? Also, I already have the AEM EMS SERIES 2 30-6051, do I let the tuner switch the box to hall sensors or is that as easy as it sounds? I see a smaller box attached to your green harness, not sure what that is. Sorry for all the questions, but things that really interest me is like my caffeine in the morning. I get excited when I learn new things. Lol
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...ddab2145be.png

That harness is for a AEM FIC not AEMD EMS. The black piece you see is what the CL harness plugs into.

2ndgentl 12-16-2018 09:03 AM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350857)

I love these cars! This is the 4th I’ve owned in 6 years of that tells you anything. Haha!

Wow Chris, the 4th one you've owned! That's awesome! Every time I run across a clean 03 6-speed CL-S on Craigslist or FB Market I always have drawbacks whether I should buy it or not. Then I think to myself "what the hell are you doing...." Lol But for the price these cars are going for it's kind of hard not to want one. I really can't think of another car as nice/quick/reliable/sporty/luxurious/and different as these cars that you can buy for under $5k

zeta 12-16-2018 09:09 AM


Originally Posted by bluedc2 (Post 16350887)
That harness is for a AEM FIC not AEMD EMS. The black piece you see is what the CL harness plugs into.

2ndgentl, this is what I would do:
1) make a copy of the schematic Chris provided in post #6
2) contact Boomslang directly and talk to them about making you a 'harness' compatible to the AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT based on the schematic provided.
3) cross your fingers and toes that they agree; otherwise, they may not agree because that 'harness' may be proprietary to Dezod :(

2ndgentl 12-16-2018 09:21 AM


Originally Posted by zeta (Post 16350890)
2ndgentl, this is what I would do:
1) make a copy of the schematic Chris provided in post #6
2) contact Boomslang directly and talk to them about making you a 'harness' compatible to the AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT based on the schematic provided.
3) cross your fingers and toes that they agree; otherwise, they may not agree because that 'harness' may be proprietary to Dezod :(

Thanks Zeta, I will contact them this week and cross all fingers and toes. Worse case scenario I will contact Dezod (I have him on my FB messenger and had talked to him before) and ask him if he could make me that harness.

bluedc2 12-16-2018 09:38 AM


Originally Posted by zeta (Post 16350890)
2ndgentl, this is what I would do:
1) make a copy of the schematic Chris provided in post #6
2) contact Boomslang directly and talk to them about making you a 'harness' compatible to the AEM 30-6051 to 2001-2003 Acura CL MT based on the schematic provided.
3) cross your fingers and toes that they agree; otherwise, they may not agree because that 'harness' may be proprietary to Dezod :(

That’s what I would do. I wouldn’t even mention Dezod when contacting them.

zeta 12-16-2018 09:50 AM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350896)
Thanks Zeta, I will contact them this week and cross all fingers and toes. Worse case scenario I will contact Dezod (I have him on my FB messenger and had talked to him before) and ask him if he could make me that harness.

Keep in mind, worse worse scenario.

If Dezod refuses to make ONLY the harness for you, for whatever reason. Technically, since you have the schematic, if you can source all the appropriate connectors, wiring and the box the CL harness connects into, you could make one yourself. Sourcing that 'stuff' online should not be that hard and readily available. You will have to follow the schematic and 'pin' the wires to their appropriate connector location. It will just take time and patience. Then of course, there is the matter of switching the AEM EMS 30-6051 box to hall sensors, which should not be to difficult, although opening the box will probably void any warranty. :shrug:

Good Luck!


bluedc2 12-16-2018 09:50 AM

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...4e6688fb12.png
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/acurazi...f72773b5a1.png

zeta 12-16-2018 09:58 AM

^
Nice Chris.:)

2ndgentl 12-16-2018 10:06 AM

Wow Chris, a million thanks! I feel like you have held my hand guiding me through the light. Lol Should I just personally message him and go from there? I wonder if I should also ask him how to switch the AEM box to hall sensors

bluedc2 12-16-2018 10:20 AM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350911)
Wow Chris, a million thanks! I feel like you have held my hand guiding me through the light. Lol Should I just personally message him and go from there? I wonder if I should also ask him how to switch the AEM box to hall sensors

Chris is a good guy and is always willing to help. Yeah, I’d ask him about switching the sensors. I would just contact him Via Facebook. Chris Harrell is his name. His profile picture has a Dezod logo on it.

zeta 12-16-2018 12:33 PM


Originally Posted by 2ndgentl (Post 16350911)
I wonder if I should also ask him how to switch the AEM box to hall sensors

2ndgentl, if you find out how to do this, on your AEM EMS 30-6051 unit, make sure to take plenty of pictures and show us what exactly you did. It would be a first here on the forum. :thumbsup:


2ndgentl 12-16-2018 01:42 PM


Originally Posted by zeta (Post 16350944)
2ndgentl, if you find out how to do this, on your AEM EMS 30-6051 unit, make sure to take plenty of pictures and show us what exactly you did. It would be a first here on the forum. :thumbsup:

Most definitely Zeta! I will be sure to take pics of everything I do that I think would be helpful to others. I also have a neighbor across the street from me that races his car at Sebring, Florida. The guy reminds me of the "Rain Man" but in tuning/building race cars from scratch. The guy has been doing his own work ( fabricating, tuning, ect. ) for over 40 years. He races a 93 body style RX7 which the car looks like it's on steroids and there is absolutely nothing stock on this car, including the frame, body, suspension, ect. Where I'm going with this is that he is very helpful on helping me out with any questions I have about my car. I'll see if I can find any pics of his car later. I messaged Dezod (Chris) and now waiting for his response. I don't expect him to respond me on a Sunday, but I'll post a pic of our conversation afterwards


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