2002 cl wont start
At first the car would crank but it wouldnt turn on. After a few times it would start. That was happening for a few weeks. After starting the car it would turn off while driving, not even 30 seconds after putting it on drive. That happened 2x's.. So today the car would not start at all.. So i changed the fuel pump and fuel relay and still it wont turn on.. I had taken the car to the dealer to get it checked, they didnt even know what the problem is. It cranks but wont turn on. PLEASE HELP...
97 CL wont start either
I was driving today and my 2.2L CL, manual transmission died at a stop sign. I checked it for fuel pressure (good), air flow not obstructed (no obstruction), spark (I have spark). I don't know how good my spark is though because I was checking it with a screwdriver. Tomorrow, I will be pulling a spark plug and then plugging the wire end in (top) and attaching one of my jumper cables to the threaded part (carefully). The other end of the jumper cable will crimp to the frame. I will have my son crank over the engine and check to see if spark is good. Look for my results tomorrow. If a dealer checked it out and they don't know, you have a shitty dealership. Why a car would have, spark, fuel, air and not fire up...I can't answer either. But then again, I don't work as a mechanic at a dealership.
My suggestion to you is loosen nut on end of fuel rail, have someone turn car to "on" position, fuel should spray out of rail if fuel pump is working. Check spark plug like described above. If your not getting spark make sure your rotor is spinning when you crank the engine, by taking off the distributor cap and having someone crank while you watch. If its turning your t-belt is still whole and working which means possibly many things...like crank sensor or coil or igniter or mass air flow sensor, or tps sensor or ECU etc... but at least you know it's not your t-belt.
My suggestion to you is loosen nut on end of fuel rail, have someone turn car to "on" position, fuel should spray out of rail if fuel pump is working. Check spark plug like described above. If your not getting spark make sure your rotor is spinning when you crank the engine, by taking off the distributor cap and having someone crank while you watch. If its turning your t-belt is still whole and working which means possibly many things...like crank sensor or coil or igniter or mass air flow sensor, or tps sensor or ECU etc... but at least you know it's not your t-belt.
Day 2
I woke up this morning and a thought hit me...maybe the timing belt jumped a tooth? I checked spark this morning. It was solid. I checked compression. It's solid. I would think the compression would drop if the timing belt was off a tooth but maybe I'm wrong. I'm going to do some more research before replacing the t-belt. Not looking forward to that job, if I can avoid it...
Day 4 97 CL still won't start
I did compression check on all four cylinders, 95-105. I'm ok with that since the car has 205,000 miles on it. While the plugs were out I grounded them and my son ran the starter. Nice solid spark. Plugs were soaked in gas from attempting to start before the compression check. Removed the air inlet housing and inspected for obstruction. Clear. I have compression, spark, air and fuel. Why won't it start!?!? I think the distributor has moved somehow or there is a faulty part in the distributor causing the spark to happen too late. Any Suggestions?
I would guess it is the main relay. My car wouldn't start about a month ago so I researched on here and found that is a common problem. I checked the solders on mine they seemed fine, tried the heat gun method and still wouldn't start. Bought a new relay and no issues since then. It is under the dash by the pedal assemblies.
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